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Electric brewery plans - need help

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Harbor Freight crimper and crimps?! Now I'm really nervous for you. Oh boy.

http://toolmonger.com/2007/02/16/test-to-destruction-crimp-terminals/

A lot of their tools are fine... Especially something as simple as a crimper... they sell cheapy ones and the better style ones that are leaps and bounds better as well..

I bought a $40 "thorsen" brand torque wrench from my local autostore only to find the exact same wrench made made the same people in china sold at harbor frieght for $9 with a case which the $40 one did not have. after buying them both to compare side by side I returned the $40 one.

coincidentally harbor freight sells the same style smaller electrical pin crimps as my employer pays over $300 a piece for....
 
A lot of their tools are fine... Especially something as simple as a crimper... they sell cheapy ones and the better style ones that are leaps and bounds better as well..
Indeed, but it's a gamble. I just personally wouldn't gamble in this instance. I mean... it's already failed here multiple times! He's lucky he caught it.

I bought a $40 "thorsen" brand torque wrench from my local autostore only to find the exact same wrench made made the same people in china sold at harbor frieght for $9 with a case which the $40 one did not have. after buying them both to compare side by side I returned the $40 one.
I actually have the HF torque wrench too! :rockin:
 
A lot of their tools are fine... Especially something as simple as a crimper... they sell cheapy ones and the better style ones that are leaps and bounds better as well..

I bought a $40 "thorsen" brand torque wrench from my local autostore only to find the exact same wrench made made the same people in china sold at harbor frieght for $9 with a case which the $40 one did not have. after buying them both to compare side by side I returned the $40 one.

coincidentally harbor freight sells the same style smaller electrical pin crimps as my employer pays over $300 a piece for....

I think the key is to get a ratcheting crimper. Without it you have no idea if your crimping properly. I'd want another closer shot, but based on the one that he showed us none of them look crimped at all. They should look flattened to hell.
 
I think the key is to get a ratcheting crimper. Without it you have no idea if your crimping properly. I'd want another closer shot, but based on the one that he showed us none of them look crimped at all. They should look flattened to hell.

Agreed
I didnt use a ratchet crimper but then again I remember I had very sore hands from squeezing the crap out of my cheap crimps.. and I gave them all tugs to ensure they were tight.
 
The way I was taught was to strip wire 2X length of terminal, fold wire over, insert into terminal, crimp, then solder the connection.

I was taught not to do that because the solder wicks into the wire and stiffens/hardens it, making it much easier for the connection to fail from bends or vibrations.

Can you fit a doubled over 10awg wire in the barrel of a 10awg terminal anyway?
 
I was taught not to do that because the solder wicks into the wire and stiffens/hardens it, making it much easier for the connection to fail from bends or vibrations.

Can you fit a doubled over 10awg wire in the barrel of a 10awg terminal anyway?

Maybe ...but thats why your not supposed to do it. :mug:
 
I used one size higher when I folded the wire for some connections. Some I was able to fit the folded wire into the same terminal size. Note: this was only for the 120V connections, i.e. ~18AWG
 
Hey guys, I've had zero issues with any of my connections, and this was advice from PJ himself. If it is in fact bad practice to fold the wire in the terminal, then I won't encourage such thing to others. I didn't solder my connections, despite PJ's advice, but maybe that's a good thing?
 
Awesome thread, TB, and awesome advice from Kal, PJ, and other experts. I am just beginning to plan my e-herms. Will use lots of info/planning from this post - thanks!

tcb
 
Does anyone on this thread still have the wiring diagram from the Tiber-Brew or P-J? None of the links are showing anymore. It would be interesting to compare to what is done today.
Brewjitsu had what was attributed to as bad crimps, but if those busses were connected to multiple breakers, he could have been drawing up to 50A which is more than the 10Ga wire should handle. I believe Tiber-Brew has this same problem but with the better crimps, does not see the problem carrying 50A to his bus bars with 10Ga wire.
 
Does anyone on this thread still have the wiring diagram from the Tiber-Brew or P-J? None of the links are showing anymore. It would be interesting to compare to what is done today.
Brewjitsu had what was attributed to as bad crimps, but if those busses were connected to multiple breakers, he could have been drawing up to 50A which is more than the 10Ga wire should handle. I believe Tiber-Brew has this same problem but with the better crimps, does not see the problem carrying 50A to his bus bars with 10Ga wire.
Current designs aren't much different. Although PIDs are best replaced by Auber EZBoil controllers, which just work better, and have more capabilities for brewing, than basic PID controllers.

Brew on :mug:
 
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