Electric brewery build

[IrregularPulse]

I believe this is common. That section isn't plated.

 

[blackheart]

Hey Man Skirt! I was following you on Facebook and now I see your brew system here. This is looking like its going to be a pretty sweet setup. We are using the exact same box for all of our electronics.

I am also interested to know what parts you are using there inside your box. Those switches and light gray boxes look fairly industrial and kick ass. Would love to know what they do and where you got them. We picked up a emergency shutoff button from ebay.... turned out to be a POS so we didnt use it.

 

[nostalgia]

Made a little progress. Made a custom dimpling tool for 1/4" fittings. Soldered a ground lug onto the HLT. Need to order a few more bits n' bobs.

-Joe

 

[Scut_Monkey]

How did you make the custom 1/4" dimpling tool? I'm guessing it was similiar to the larger one you already showed us.

 

[nostalgia]

Scut: yes very similar. I took a 1/2" brass long nipple and ground the end to a taper on a belt grinder and used that as the form to pull through.

Also: I just edited my original post with a parts list. Enjoy!

-Joe

 

[klyph]

You can coat the face of the element with silicone if it bothers you. Where did you get the ground lug?

 

[Tiber_Brew]

Looking good! Nice job with the soldering!

 

[Scut_Monkey]

Scut: yes very similar. I took a 1/2" brass long nipple and ground the end to a taper on a belt grinder and used that as the form to pull through.

Also: I just edited my original post with a parts list. Enjoy!

-Joe

I seeeeee. Great pictures along the way....good detail. Keep them coming. I still like the webcam idea. Brilliant!

 

[nostalgia]

I'm trying to decide where to put the thermowell in the brew kettle.

Directly in the side of the pot, or in a tee fitting at the output of the whirlpool port? Anyone have experience here?

I'm tempted to put it in the side of the pot, but it is one more thing to clean around.

-Joe

 

[klyph]

Will you be recirculating through the whirlpool port as you are cooling, or do you have a plate or counterflow chiller?

 

[nostalgia]

I will be recirculating with an IC. But if I move to a plate chiller eventually, then the thermowell would be useless regardless of where in the BK it is, right?

-Joe

 

[klyph]

I will be recirculating with an IC. But if I move to a plate chiller eventually, then the thermowell would be useless regardless of where in the BK it is, right?

-Joe

True, but if you plan on going single pass cooling, then you'll have an extra hole in your kettle. I'd tee it into the whirlpool port, you can always change it later.

 

[nostalgia]

Well, after several hours of hunching, my back has exploded. However, I got quite a bit of work done. Installed two fuse holders, two RTD quick-connects, applied heat transfer goo to the SSRs and installed them with the 4mm screws I just bought. Then the real work started: wiring. I don't have a proper power cable yet, so I'm just using 6/3 romex jacketed from the borg. A real SJ cord will be on the list of to-dos. I'm not too concerned since it'll most likely be mounted rigidly next to the main box anyway.

All that's left is to solder up connections for the RTDs and fire it up. I'm very excited

-Joe

 

[Tiber_Brew]

Wow, you could hardly fit a mouse fart in there now.

Nice, neat wiring. Looking forward to seeing it light up!

I just put the last coat of paint on my enclosure today, so I'm a little behind you now. This will give me a chance to steal- I mean look for inspiration from your build!

Keep it up!
TB

 

[Tiber_Brew]

Question for ya:

Are you cutting your existing RTD wires to split for use inside and outside the box, or are you buying additional wire to use between the PID and the internal panel mount RTD connectors?

I was thinking about what to do with mine, and there's pretty much no way to avoid having to recalibrate the RTD with this setup.

TB

 

[nostalgia]

I'm probably using additional wire. I've got a bunch of 18gu that I've been using for the low amperage bits of the circuits. I figured I'd want to calibrate the RTDs anyway, so it doesn't really matter. I believe the PIDs have provisions for calibration built in.

-Joe

 

[ScrapHeap2000]

That is a super clean control box. I recognize the PID's, very good and great value. I am impressed how neat and clean your wiring is. Nice work.

 

[nostalgia]

That is a super clean control box. I recognize the PID's, very good and great value. I am impressed how neat and clean your wiring is. Nice work.

Thank you, and thanks Tiber for your comment. My dad is an automotive wiring guru, so I guess I get my anal-retentiveness for neat wiring from him. It also makes me feel better that everything's where it belongs when working with 50 amp service.

-Joe

 

[nostalgia]

Ok kids, we're ready for power! First, I thought you might like a glimpse into the chaos that is my workbench...

Here's the final wiring for the RTDs. You can see them connected on the right. That was a fun little bit of soldering.

And finally, the giant on-off switch. I think it makes the box

Wish me luck! I know my heart will be pounding when I first throw that switch...

-Joe

 

[Gabrew]

looks great! Great job on the wiring!

I got my enclosure in today...this is inspiring

...what are the two knobs between the PIDs?

 

[nostalgia]

looks great! Great job on the wiring!

I got my enclosure in today...this is inspiring

...what are the two knobs between the PIDs?

Thanks! We'll be expecting pictures

The knobs are fuse holders for the 1A fuses that protect the PID circuits.

-Joe

 

[Gabrew]

nicely thought...easy access!

let us know how it goes!

good luck

 

[nostalgia]

Well, crap. The breaker I bought doesn't fit my box. Ah well, test run tomorrow.

-Joe

 

[brewslut]

You....my friend are MAD!!!! awesome !! wish I understood half of what you described in this build so far,I will be better with the....."Welded 2 pcs of 2" angle to hold the......" haha.Will be following...And try to get a cushion on that back destryoyer stool of yours might help the back a little.

 

[nostalgia]

Wired in the spa panel and 50A, 4-prong outlet. Of course, the plug that I thought was 4-prong is 3-prong and I have to go out for the correct one before I can play.

I did power everything up and meter voltages, as well as test the GFI. All is well in those departments.

-Joe

 

[Bigscience]

Question for ya:

Are you cutting your existing RTD wires to split for use inside and outside the box, or are you buying additional wire to use between the PID and the internal panel mount RTD connectors?

I was thinking about what to do with mine, and there's pretty much no way to avoid having to recalibrate the RTD with this setup.

TB

I may be wrong but I thought that as long as you used the same type and length of wire, there is no need to recalibrate with the 3 wire RTDs. Anyone know any different?

I'm probably using additional wire. I've got a bunch of 18gu that I've been using for the low amperage bits of the circuits. I figured I'd want to calibrate the RTDs anyway, so it doesn't really matter. I believe the PIDs have provisions for calibration built in.

-Joe

I know the Watlow PIDs I have can be re-calibrated but I don't thinks it's as simple as setting an offset. The manual shows a script where you apply a set voltage/resistance with a decade resistance box to calibrate. This seems a little beyond the tools I have. Has anyone out there actually calibrated a PID this way?

 

[Tiber_Brew]

I may be wrong but I thought that as long as you used the same type and length of wire, there is no need to recalibrate with the 3 wire RTDs. Anyone know any different?

My bold.

That's the problem. Both Joe and I are extending the RTD wires and splicing in some panel mount connectors, which changes the resistance of the wires going to the PID. Wouldn't that throw off an RTD by a tad?

I know the Watlow PIDs I have can be re-calibrated but I don't thinks it's as simple as setting an offset. The manual shows a script where you apply a set voltage/resistance with a decade resistance box to calibrate. This seems a little beyond the tools I have. Has anyone out there actually calibrated a PID this way?

I'm interested in this as well.

TB

 

[Bigscience]

My bold.

That's the problem. Both Joe and I are extending the RTD wires and splicing in some panel mount connectors, which changes the resistance of the wires going to the PID. Wouldn't that throw off an RTD by a tad?



I'm interested in this as well.

TB

I may be wrong but I believe that as long as you use the same wire for the splice for all 3 wires, it doesn't matter if it's different from that outside the box. You can't use 16 gauge copper for one, 22 aluminum for another and a coat hanger for the last one though. For thermocouples, it does matter as it is the wire itself (or the junction of the 2) where the temp is being measured (the two different metals define the TC). For RTDs, all you need it to have the same resistance for all three wires.

Any EE nerds out there care to correct me or elaborate?

 

[Tiber_Brew]

That also makes sense. I hope you're right, because that would mean better chances of my RTDs being accurate.

TiberIlikethecoathangerreferenceBrew

 

[ScrapHeap2000]

The beauty of RTD Probes is that they can be extended witout worry of a calibration issue. When I made my system, I ordered 6' leads for my PT100 RTD Probes. I was worried the same as you and after much research and asking of electricians at various chemical facilities, RTDs use 3 or 4 wires to measure resistance. The K or S type probes use only 2 and have to be very carefully spliced. I will admit that I don't understand the physics behind it, but my probes were extended 6 feet and they read within 1/2 a degree from my dials and digitals.

Be sure you have the correct setup in your PIDs, a lot of them won't work with RTD's.