tigmaster
Well-Known Member
An electric conversion
Thanks guys. I made the fitting. I will usually weld in a 2" tri clamp ferrule and drill a hole in a s line cap and weld the coupling to the s line cap.this guy wanted it done cheaper so I welded a piece of 2" tubing to the 1" 304 ss lock nut
Two reasons I think it would be nice to remove it. 1 to make cleaning it easier and 2 you can put a TC plug in it's place and run a flame underneath keeping your brew rig flexible. It's what I would love to do to my setup.I really like that, I actually never understood much of the benefit to having a triclamp fitting for my electric heating element - its not something you need to remove often, and it already has threading on it for disconnecting, so why add another layer of fittings? I really like your approach, and the final result looks really solid.
How much did you charge to do that?
Two reasons I think it would be nice to remove it. 1 to make cleaning it easier and 2 you can put a TC plug in it's place and run a flame underneath keeping your brew rig flexible. It's what I would love to do to my setup.
I charged 65 for that plus parts....but the parts were dollars. ...I normally do a tri clamp set up through a s line end cap. ...but it was a little more expensive in parts so I came up with this idea
I will also add it alows you to mount your element lower when using the wavy ulwd 5500 watt elements. If you use a threaded connection the wavy part will catch the bottom of the pot stopping it from threading. This comes into play with some of the wider shorter pots out there if you want to do smaller batches.
If you have to move a kettle to clean it is easier without wires hanging off even if it is a short pigtail. Tri clamp fittings make it a breeze to remove. Having had both threaded and now triclamp elements I would choose tri clamp every time.
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