Electric brew mod

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tigmaster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2010
Messages
144
Reaction score
19
Location
sacramento
An electric conversion

1403166310848.jpg
 
I assume the threading is for a standard electric heating element to screw in? If so, thats quite nice - where is the welded fitting from?
 
Thanks guys. I made the fitting. I will usually weld in a 2" tri clamp ferrule and drill a hole in a s line cap and weld the coupling to the s line cap.this guy wanted it done cheaper so I welded a piece of 2" tubing to the 1" 304 ss lock nut
 
Thanks guys. I made the fitting. I will usually weld in a 2" tri clamp ferrule and drill a hole in a s line cap and weld the coupling to the s line cap.this guy wanted it done cheaper so I welded a piece of 2" tubing to the 1" 304 ss lock nut

I really like that, I actually never understood much of the benefit to having a triclamp fitting for my electric heating element - its not something you need to remove often, and it already has threading on it for disconnecting, so why add another layer of fittings? I really like your approach, and the final result looks really solid.

How much did you charge to do that?
 
I really like that, I actually never understood much of the benefit to having a triclamp fitting for my electric heating element - its not something you need to remove often, and it already has threading on it for disconnecting, so why add another layer of fittings? I really like your approach, and the final result looks really solid.

How much did you charge to do that?
Two reasons I think it would be nice to remove it. 1 to make cleaning it easier and 2 you can put a TC plug in it's place and run a flame underneath keeping your brew rig flexible. It's what I would love to do to my setup.
 
I charged 65 for that plus parts....but the parts were dollars. ...I normally do a tri clamp set up through a s line end cap. ...but it was a little more expensive in parts so I came up with this idea
 
Two reasons I think it would be nice to remove it. 1 to make cleaning it easier and 2 you can put a TC plug in it's place and run a flame underneath keeping your brew rig flexible. It's what I would love to do to my setup.

Good point, it would definitely make cleaning the kettle easier, because you wouldn't have a heating element sticking out in your way, but its not going to make your full-clean any easier. Instead of having 1 set of threads to clean, now you have 1 set of threads + TC fittings to clean :)

Regarding rig flexibility - you could just put a NPT plug in if you ever wanted to do direct fire.

I would never fault anyone for wanting TC fittings instead of NPT fittings, its great bling. I personally just think there are places you get better bang-for-your-buck than having a TC fitting for your element.

You brought up some good points as to the benefits of having TC fittings. Thanks for that, its definitely made me think.

I charged 65 for that plus parts....but the parts were dollars. ...I normally do a tri clamp set up through a s line end cap. ...but it was a little more expensive in parts so I came up with this idea

Very cool, I live in the SF south bay area, so once I get to needing some welded fittings I'll PM you :)
 
I will also add it alows you to mount your element lower when using the wavy ulwd 5500 watt elements. If you use a threaded connection the wavy part will catch the bottom of the pot stopping it from threading. This comes into play with some of the wider shorter pots out there if you want to do smaller batches.

If you have to move a kettle to clean it is easier without wires hanging off even if it is a short pigtail. Tri clamp fittings make it a breeze to remove. Having had both threaded and now triclamp elements I would choose tri clamp every time.
 
I will also add it alows you to mount your element lower when using the wavy ulwd 5500 watt elements. If you use a threaded connection the wavy part will catch the bottom of the pot stopping it from threading. This comes into play with some of the wider shorter pots out there if you want to do smaller batches.

If you have to move a kettle to clean it is easier without wires hanging off even if it is a short pigtail. Tri clamp fittings make it a breeze to remove. Having had both threaded and now triclamp elements I would choose tri clamp every time.

Some great points, didn't think about those either!
 
Back
Top