Max Amp doesn't matter for checking Ohm. As mentioned by the other member disconnect the element and measure the resistance across the hot connectors. If you wanted to take a quick look just to see if was way off, if you have a plug on the wire going from the element to the panel you could check it there. Unplug the element from the panel and check the resistance across the hot plugs. It won't be a perfect reading because there is a some resistance in the wires but it might be able to spot check it there without taking much apart.
I wouldn't worry much about the amp reading. You are right in that consumer models are not made for testing this. Heck I have a high end Fluke which is a commercial unit and I would blow the fuses trying to check current. If I want to measure that I have a different meter which is the clamp style that just goes around the wire.
Going back to ohms law. You are looking for about 10.47 Ohms resistance as I mentioned. There really isn't a need to test for current (Amps). This is because you can use ohm's law to calculate what it is. If you know any 2 of the values you can calculate the other values.
http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms_law_calculator.php
So if we know the voltage is 240V and the rating of the element is 5500W then we can figure out what the resistance should be as well as what the calculated current should be. That is how I came up with those numbers for you.
You can change it up though. Again you know your voltage (240v) or for kicks, plug in your actual measured value. Maybe it is 238V. You can measure Resistance of the element with the Ohm Meter. So that is another measurable value. So lets say you actually have 238V and a measured resistance of 15 Ohms. That would calculate out to 15.86667 Amps and your element is outputting 3776.26667 watts even though it is rated for 5500Watts.
The thing about trying to measure Amps is that if you don't have the right tools and know what you are doing, it is pretty dangerous. It is much safer to measure values that you can and trust the math. You can safely measure resistance and voltage with minor precautions and a basic multimeter. It will tell you everything you need to know.
If there is a safety cutout on the element it would suck to order a new one of the same model just to have the issue again. I don't remember if you said this is a new rig or if it worked in the past but this is a new issue. I think it is all new. Defective parts happen but maybe you ordered the wrong element. I know that many people around here use this one for a 5500W element.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPG4LI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20