Ebiab sample programs for using Ezboil DSPR 320

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nick sekerak

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Hey Gents,

I am just finishing up my controller and wanted to see if you could post/share some of your best programs using the Ezboil DSPR 320 for biab brewing. I never used a pid like this so i wanted to see what kind of good programs people have came up with that works out good for this type of brewing. I am hoping to use your advice to make a similar program to tailor to my brewing process. Please be as detailed as possible, so i can try to follow along with your programming.
 
You don't need a program unless you want to do something like step mashing. I'd suggest just doing some simple single mash temp brews until you get more familiar with your new equipment.

Brew on :mug:
 
First of all, you made a great choice with the EZ-Boil, Auber is an awesome company and this is an amazing controller. But, like @doug293cz said, just learn the basics and start out with simple mash programs before progressing to more hairy setups.

I've been brewing with an EZ-Boil for a couple of years now (36 batches so far) and my only mishaps occurred when I set up complicated step mashing routines before I knew what I was doing, and experienced scorched elements and scorched-tasting beers. My advice is to build "arming" toggles into your panel for each heating element so that you always have full control of when the elements can fire.

Nowadays, when I do occasionally bother with a step mash, I disarm the elements between ramps so that when the timer starts beeping to signal the next heat-up, I can grab my whisk and stir up the sediment to clear the elements before flipping the arming switches on. If you bought yours recently you are in luck as it includes an extra parameter called MOUT which lets you set the element power intensity while in mash mode. Set that down to 20-25% or so to lessen the risk of scorching. Mine is a first gen unit and lacks this feature so the elements come on at 100% which isn't ideal. I'd send it in for an update if I could bear to part with it for a week or two but so far that hasn't happened and besides I love it just the way it is.

Overall, it's a fantastic piece of gear but IMO not terribly user friendly. Read the manual cover to cover and practice switching between modes and using the PROG menu before you brew with it. Good luck.
 
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I recently also bought an EZBoil and am learning to use it. Thanks for pointing out the mOUT parameter. Is it simple enough to keep mOUT at 100% to heat the strike water and then change it to 25% during the mash step to make sure the grain and/or bag don't get scorched?
 
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I am excited to start using it.

Here is a what i am thinking of doing for the first brew using the new ezboil:

1.) Strike temp 163*F @ 0 seconds
2.) Dough in 154*F - Hold; press run when grist is all stirred and ready for mash
3.) Mash 154*F @ 60 min
4.) Pull BIAB out @ 170*F hold, press run after biab is completely drained
5.) Boil 60 min. starting with P = 50, adjust on the fly if needed.
6.) End

now i have to figure out how to program this into the DSPR 320 o_O
 
Read the manual cover to cover and practice switching between modes and using the PROG menu before you brew with it. Good luck.

Definitely spend time reading the manual and have it close by when doing initial testing. I have been testing programs with mine just using water in the kettle; I recommend doing this to learn how the controller works.
 
I recently also bought an EZ-Boil and am learning to use it. Thanks for pointing out the mOUT parameter. Is it simple enough to keep mOUT at 100% to heat the strike water and then change it to 25% during the mash step to make sure the grain and/or bag don't get scorched?
That's a good question; my controller doesn't have this parameter so I don't know whether it can be set for each mash step or if it is a general setting. IME, its generally not necessary to heat during a single infusion mash unless you brew outside or in a cold room. Also, my kettle is jacketed with three wraps of reflectix so YMMV.

My typical mash routine consists of three steps; heat strike at 154, hold for 2 minutes (mash-in), hold mash for 60 min. @150'F, mashout for 10 min. @168'F.

Here are the steps I follow:

Fill the kettle with entire mash volume (in my case, 8.3 gallons RO), add salts, arm elements and hit start:

1. Heat mash water to 154'F, hold for two minutes then beep
---->I disarm elements and mash in, temp falls to ~150'F
2. Hold at 150'F for 60 minutes then beep (elements are disarmed during this step; temp falls to ~146-147'F)
---->I agitate the mash thoroughly then arm elements
3. Ramp up to 168'F, hold for ten minutes then beep
---->I continue to stir during heat up, and again when ten minutes have elapsed, then disarm elements and raise the grain bag to drain

While the bag is draining I switch to boil mode and stir up the wort, arm the elements and hit start.
I use various timing intervals for the boil, the beeps alert me to add the hops and the intervals are super easy to modify.

Hope this helps!
 
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That's a good question; my controller doesn't have this parameter so I don't know whether it can be set for each mash step or if it is a general setting. IME, its generally not necessary to heat during a single infusion mash unless you brew outside or in a cold room. Also, my kettle is jacketed with three wraps of reflectix so YMMV.

My typical mash routine consists of three steps; heat strike at 154, hold for 2 minutes (mash-in), hold mash for 60 min. @150'F, mashout for 10 min. @168'F.

Here are the steps I follow:

Fill the kettle with entire mash volume (in my case, 8.3 gallons RO), add salts, arm elements and hit start:

1. Heat mash water to 154'F, hold for two minutes then beep
---->I disarm elements and mash in, temp falls to ~150'F
2. Hold at 150'F for 60 minutes then beep (elements are disarmed during this step; temp falls to ~146-147'F)
---->I agitate the mash thoroughly then arm elements
3. Ramp up to 168'F, hold for ten minutes then beep
---->I continue to stir during heat up, and again when ten minutes have elapsed, then disarm elements and raise the grain bag to drain

While the bag is draining I switch to boil mode and stir up the wort, arm the elements and hit start.
I use various timing intervals for the boil, the beeps alert me to add the hops and the intervals are super easy to modify.

Hope this helps!

that’s seems simple enough. I am going to try it. Thanks
 
I'm just about done getting all the components for my eBIAB setup with the DSPR320 (Auber Cube). Initially, I'm not recirculating but may eventually get a pump. Here's what I'm thinking my base program will look like. The temps and power ratings are place holders and would be modified based on recipe and boil strength.

I plan to do a test without heating during mash and also a test supplying a low power heat and see how that works out (scorching, effectiveness, etc). If I was recirculating I wouldn't drop the power in mash mode before doughing in. I'm running with the assumption that the lower power heat wont really do that much to keep the whole mash temp up, but I want to give it a shot. It's too bad that mOut is global, it would be nice if you could set mOut for each mash mode step.

Mash Steps
---------------
Mash 165 Hold - Get to strike temp and hold, if not heating during mash stop program manually and dough in and insulate kettle, otherwise set mOut to a low power % and press Run
Mash 151 Hold - Dough in, stirring until ready to start mash timer, press Run
Mash 151 60min
* Possibly a Hold Step here to not automatically go to boil mode so it doesn't ramp up full power before pulling the bag.
Mash 151 Cont - Automatically proceed to Boil mode


Boil Steps
---------------
Boil 30% Hold - Bring to a boil, reduce power and hold, Add 60 min hops and press Run to start timer
Boil 30% 45min - Timer to add 15min hops, whirlfloc,yeast nutrient and immersion chiller
Boil 30% 10min - Timer to add 5min hops
Boil 30% 5min
* Probably need to switch mOut back to 100% if it was changed during mash
Mash 170 Hold - At end of boil, chill to 170 and hold, add whirlpool hops, press Run to start whirlpool timer, stir/pump to whirlpool
Mash 170 20min
Mash 170 End - Once timer is done, end program and chill.
 
I have a cube arriving tomorrow. It'll be interesting since I'm using it with an adcraft manual control induction burner. This means I can control the out put with the dspr or with the manual control on the burner.

My plan is to put the burner at about 50% power during the mash to emulate a low watt density element. Then for the boil, I'll leave the cube at 100% power and manage the boil rate with the manual control on the induction unit.

I did a brew last Saturday using the induction burner and my usual cooler mash tun. That worked really well, but with my new brew space, I think I want to switch to a single vessel solution. It just fits the space better. With my 10G kettle, I will likely still do my bigger beers as a two vessel system using the cooler and batch sparge.
 
I'm just about done getting all the components for my eBIAB setup with the DSPR320 (Auber Cube). Initially, I'm not recirculating but may eventually get a pump. Here's what I'm thinking my base program will look like. The temps and power ratings are place holders and would be modified based on recipe and boil strength.

I plan to do a test without heating during mash and also a test supplying a low power heat and see how that works out (scorching, effectiveness, etc). If I was recirculating I wouldn't drop the power in mash mode before doughing in. I'm running with the assumption that the lower power heat wont really do that much to keep the whole mash temp up, but I want to give it a shot. It's too bad that mOut is global, it would be nice if you could set mOut for each mash mode step.

Mash Steps
---------------
Mash 165 Hold - Get to strike temp and hold, if not heating during mash stop program manually and dough in and insulate kettle, otherwise set mOut to a low power % and press Run
Mash 151 Hold - Dough in, stirring until ready to start mash timer, press Run
Mash 151 60min
* Possibly a Hold Step here to not automatically go to boil mode so it doesn't ramp up full power before pulling the bag.
Mash 151 Cont - Automatically proceed to Boil mode


Boil Steps
---------------
Boil 30% Hold - Bring to a boil, reduce power and hold, Add 60 min hops and press Run to start timer
Boil 30% 45min - Timer to add 15min hops, whirlfloc,yeast nutrient and immersion chiller
Boil 30% 10min - Timer to add 5min hops
Boil 30% 5min
* Probably need to switch mOut back to 100% if it was changed during mash
Mash 170 Hold - At end of boil, chill to 170 and hold, add whirlpool hops, press Run to start whirlpool timer, stir/pump to whirlpool
Mash 170 20min
Mash 170 End - Once timer is done, end program and chill.


I like your steps nicely thought out. One question why do you change the MOut to a low percentage and what percentage do you use?
 
I like your steps nicely thought out. One question why do you change the MOut to a low percentage and what percentage do you use?


Well I just got the controller recently so I haven't ran through a brew day with it and don't know a specific percent yet. But here is my thinking...…..

Since I'm not recirculating yet, I'm not sure if heating during the mash is even worth it. But *if* I was going to heat, I didn't want the controller to go full throttle trying to keep it at mash temp and cause scorching. So my thought was turn down mOut to a low percentage so the element would be limited.

Now that I think about it though, I'm not sure if the mOut setting is only applied during the RAMP section to the set temperature. It's possible once the temp is at the set temperature and the timer starts that mOut is ignored and the controller uses whatever is necessary to keep the set temp.

Also, if the bag is on a false bottom and not touching the element, essentially I would be just keeping the volume of water under the bag at 151 which I'm honestly assuming wont translate into the mash that much. The concern is any scorching of mash particulate in the water volume under the bag since there wouldn't really be any movement.
 
It's not clear to me how the mOUT parameter works either. This is what the manual says:

Note 4. mOUT, acceleration output power for mashing steps, determines the maximum output power can be sent during the acceleration stage of heating up the water or wort toward the set temperature of the next step.

This sounds like mOUT only applies during heating to a target in a subsequent step and not necessarily in a HOLD portion of a step.
 
Well I just got the controller recently so I haven't ran through a brew day with it and don't know a specific percent yet. But here is my thinking...…..

Since I'm not recirculating yet, I'm not sure if heating during the mash is even worth it. But *if* I was going to heat, I didn't want the controller to go full throttle trying to keep it at mash temp and cause scorching. So my thought was turn down mOut to a low percentage so the element would be limited.

Now that I think about it though, I'm not sure if the mOut setting is only applied during the RAMP section to the set temperature. It's possible once the temp is at the set temperature and the timer starts that mOut is ignored and the controller uses whatever is necessary to keep the set temp.

Also, if the bag is on a false bottom and not touching the element, essentially I would be just keeping the volume of water under the bag at 151 which I'm honestly assuming wont translate into the mash that much. The concern is any scorching of mash particulate in the water volume under the bag since there wouldn't really be any movement.

I am trying to tweek this process also. My temp prob is 3 inches away from my 5500w element being controlled by the DSPR 320. So when the element fires the prob reads real high, i did not consider this before i drilled the hole in the kettle. I just read that you want the prob to be between the element and in the flow stream going to you out port to the pump. I was also was considering that i did not want the wort to get too hot around the element with a probe that is far away taking long to adjust temps for overshooting. Its like a double edge sward to figure out where the sweet spot is for a biab setup. My first batch using this DSPR 320 my mash cam in 6 deg F too low. I tried heating during the mash by running the recir pump on low, then turn pump off & stir up the mash to equalize the mash temp. But i was never really able to bring the temp up in the mash that is above the false bottom to the proper mash temp that i wanted. but the bottom was correct. It was like a thermal barrier between the false bottom and the grist in the bag, i only was able to raise it 2-3 deg over the course of 60 min mash. Has anyone tried something different to correct the mash temp if you under shoot using this same system? I may try insulating my kettle if i still cant get it right in the next couple of brews.
 
I am trying to tweek this process also. My temp prob is 3 inches away from my 5500w element being controlled by the DSPR 320. So when the element fires the prob reads real high, i did not consider this before i drilled the hole in the kettle. I just read that you want the prob to be between the element and in the flow stream going to you out port to the pump. I was also was considering that i did not want the wort to get too hot around the element with a probe that is far away taking long to adjust temps for overshooting. Its like a double edge sward to figure out where the sweet spot is for a biab setup. My first batch using this DSPR 320 my mash cam in 6 deg F too low. I tried heating during the mash by running the recir pump on low, then turn pump off & stir up the mash to equalize the mash temp. But i was never really able to bring the temp up in the mash that is above the false bottom to the proper mash temp that i wanted. but the bottom was correct. It was like a thermal barrier between the false bottom and the grist in the bag, i only was able to raise it 2-3 deg over the course of 60 min mash. Has anyone tried something different to correct the mash temp if you under shoot using this same system? I may try insulating my kettle if i still cant get it right in the next couple of brews.
You might be having an issue with the hotter recirculated wort cooling down too much before it gets introduced back on top of the mash. You could improve this situation by insulating the recirc plumbing, and recirculating at a faster rate. Try checking the temp of the recirculated wort at the exit of the recirc loop.

Brew on :mug:
 
After reading about half of the manual for the 320 and playing around with it a bit yesterday, here's my thinking:

  1. Ramp to strike temp: mash 162 (e.g.), hold. This way if I'm still busy setting other things up or milling grains it'll just hand out at that temp until I'm ready to dough in
    1. Press run to continue to next step
  2. Ramp to mash temp: mash 152 (e.g.), hold. Have it looking for the mash temp while I dough in, but don't start the mash timer.
    1. Press run to continue to next
  3. Hold mash temp: Mash 152, 60 mins. This will time my mash cycle, holding temp
  4. Ramp to boil: Boil, 60 mins - If I understand things correctly, this will ramp to a boil and start the timer when the boil starts. It'll move on to step 5 after the 60 minute timer expires.
  5. End - I sometimes whirlpool with hops at 160-170, but I don't see the need to have it hold that temp. It doesn't drop that much during the WP anyway.
This is my thinking for a simple single infusion mash with 60 minute boil.

Also, I didn't get through the whole manual before I got pulled into other tasks. Does this thing remember the steps when you power off and back on, or do you have to start from scratch every time?
 
= Does this thing remember the steps when you power off and back on, or do you have to start from scratch every time?

Yes, it saves the configuration. If you make changes in real time with the knob (temp, power, time) during the brew, it does not save those changes. I believe it loads each step from the mash and boil program as it progresses through the steps.

I had my first brew day with my program above.
It was 32 outside, 15 gallon spike kettle insulated with blankets/sleeping bag for mash, 5500w element
Here are the changes I made after.

1. Strike temp lower. I didn't lose as much heat as i thought on dough in (using rackers.org calculator).
2. Added hold step as 4th step before continuing to boil
3. Boil % changed to 60%. Could be lower for a more gentle boil but i had to boil water off because of adding cold water due to #1.
4. bAST changed to 205 (This will probably depend on outside temp and a few more trial runs, at 200 I don't think it needed to kick down the power so soon.
5. I actually heated during half the mash to try it out. I didn't see/smell any scorching although I suppose taste is the real test. I did stir the mash a few times and that helped re-equalize the temps in the mash which was tested with a quick read thermometer..
6. I kept the wort moving the whole whirlpool and maintained the 170 with element on.
7. I didn't lower mOut (100% the whole time)

My next brew day will be this. I think it's pretty solid.
Mash Steps
---------------
Mash 158 Hold - Get to strike temp and hold, if not heating during mash stop program manually and dough in and insulate kettle
Mash 151 Hold - Dough in, stirring until ready to start mash timer, press Run
Mash 151 60min
Mash 151 Hold, Don't automatically go to boil mode so it doesn't ramp up full power before pulling the bag until run is pressed.
Mash 151 Cont - Automatically proceed to Boil mode


Boil Steps
---------------
Boil 60% Hold - Bring to a boil, reduce power and hold, Add 60 min hops and press Run to start timer
Boil 60% 45min - Timer to add 15min hops, whirlfloc,yeast nutrient and immersion chiller
Boil 60% 10min - Timer to add 5min hops
Boil 60% 5min
Mash 170 Hold - At end of boil, chill to 170 and hold, add whirlpool hops, press Run to start whirlpool timer, stir/pump to whirlpool
Mash 170 20min
Mash 170 End - Once timer is done, end program and chill.
 
You might be having an issue with the hotter recirculated wort cooling down too much before it gets introduced back on top of the mash. You could improve this situation by insulating the recirc plumbing, and recirculating at a faster rate. Try checking the temp of the recirculated wort at the exit of the recirc loop.

Brew on :mug:

I have foam insulation wrapped around all my hoses already. I will have to check what the temp is coming out from the pump onto the top of the wart next brew.
 
I have foam insulation wrapped around all my hoses already. I will have to check what the temp is coming out from the pump onto the top of the wart next brew.

You might be having an issue with the hotter recirculated wort cooling down too much before it gets introduced back on top of the mash. You could improve this situation by insulating the recirc plumbing, and recirculating at a faster rate. Try checking the temp of the recirculated wort at the exit of the recirc loop.
Brew on :mug:




Just brew again this weekend and with 156* set on my PID and i had 153/152 discharging from my pump on to the top of the grist/bag. I played around with my set temps and the wort did not hit 156* until i had 165* for my set temp. That kinda worried me and i am not sure this is what i should do to get my mash temp to where i want it. Will having the wart at 165*F below the falsebottom and have the pump discharge on top of the bag/grist to get it to mix/equalize to the 156*F target mash temp have any ill effects???

My process to do this was to slowly tweek the set temp up a 1-2 degrees, wait for it to stabilize, and took the temp from the top of the bag/grist after stirring it up real good. I had the pump recirculating about 50% of the time. I bumped the set temp up 1-2 degrees every 8-10 min so by the end of my mash i was at a set temp of 165 and i finally hit my desired mash temp of 156. I also have a temp probe mounted in the wall of my kettle that would be about halfway between the falsebottom and top of the wort, and the temp was within one degree of the top of grist temp that i measured with my hand thermometer.
 
Just brew again this weekend and with 156* set on my PID and i had 153/152 discharging from my pump on to the top of the grist/bag. I played around with my set temps and the wort did not hit 156* until i had 165* for my set temp. That kinda worried me and i am not sure this is what i should do to get my mash temp to where i want it. Will having the wart at 165*F below the falsebottom and have the pump discharge on top of the bag/grist to get it to mix/equalize to the 156*F target mash temp have any ill effects???

My process to do this was to slowly tweek the set temp up a 1-2 degrees, wait for it to stabilize, and took the temp from the top of the bag/grist after stirring it up real good. I had the pump recirculating about 50% of the time. I bumped the set temp up 1-2 degrees every 8-10 min so by the end of my mash i was at a set temp of 165 and i finally hit my desired mash temp of 156. I also have a temp probe mounted in the wall of my kettle that would be about halfway between the falsebottom and top of the wort, and the temp was within one degree of the top of grist temp that i measured with my hand thermometer.

So you had the PID set to 156 and the wort coming out of the kettle was 152/153? And you had to output 165 degree wort to get 156 going back into the top of the kettle???? Something doesn't sound right about that.

Where is your PID temp probe? You say you were recirculating 50% of the time. If you're not well insulated (the kettle/MT), I think you want to recirculate all the time (except for the first 5 minutes or so after dough in where you're waiting for the grain bed to settle).

I'm no expert (Haven't brewed with my recirculating rig yet), but I've read a ton. I'm curious about the following:
  1. Where is your PID temp probe?
  2. What's the temp of the wort at the heating element? If you're recirculating and your PID sensor is at the kettle output, the temp at the element should be virtually identical to the temp coming out of the kettle.
  3. What's the ambient temp? Are you brewing in a really cold environment? I would not expect a 3+ degree drop in temp with a silicone hose from the kettle output back into the top of the kettle unless the wort was just sitting in the hose. A 9 degree drop (165 to 156) seems borderline impossible.
  4. What's your flow rate?
I once tried to chill a beer by recirculating it through a silicone hose that was running through ice water...didn't work very well at all. I concluded that the silicone was not very good at conducting heat. I would not expect much drop through a hose unless it's really long or your flow rate is near zero.
 
So you had the PID set to 156 and the wort coming out of the kettle was 152/153? And you had to output 165 degree wort to get 156 going back into the top of the kettle???? Something doesn't sound right about that.

Where is your PID temp probe? You say you were recirculating 50% of the time. If you're not well insulated (the kettle/MT), I think you want to recirculate all the time (except for the first 5 minutes or so after dough in where you're waiting for the grain bed to settle).

I'm no expert (Haven't brewed with my recirculating rig yet), but I've read a ton. I'm curious about the following:
  1. Where is your PID temp probe?
  2. What's the temp of the wort at the heating element? If you're recirculating and your PID sensor is at the kettle output, the temp at the element should be virtually identical to the temp coming out of the kettle.
  3. What's the ambient temp? Are you brewing in a really cold environment? I would not expect a 3+ degree drop in temp with a silicone hose from the kettle output back into the top of the kettle unless the wort was just sitting in the hose. A 9 degree drop (165 to 156) seems borderline impossible.
  4. What's your flow rate?
I once tried to chill a beer by recirculating it through a silicone hose that was running through ice water...didn't work very well at all. I concluded that the silicone was not very good at conducting heat. I would not expect much drop through a hose unless it's really long or your flow rate is near zero.


My prob is 2-3 inches away from my heating element and its at the same height as the element. My intake port from the kettle to the pump is only like 6-8 inches away from the probe. I am very confused whats going on here. I do not have my kettle insulated, just the beer lines going from kettle to pump and pump to kettle are insulated. I keep the lid closed except for stirring the mash and checking temps. I have tested the temp prob and it is accurate too. The wort at the element is pretty much what the prob reading is since it is close to the element i am guessing. For flow rate i restrict the flow with a valve and it was about 50-60% closed. I am starting to think that to heat the wort inside the bag it just takes very long. My thinking is heating 153* to 156* with 156* degree wort takes a long time, or maybe my kettle is losing some of the heat too. So with a set temp of 153 maybe my kettle looses 3*f and can only maintain mash at 153F. But this still does not make sense because i tried moving the set temp to 160 and it still did not hit 156 mash temp.

To explain the 165*F set temp better. I kept raising it 1-2 degrees almost every 5 min when the mash temp was still not rising to my target temp. So finally when i had a set temp of 165*F on the PID the mash hit my target temp of 156. I did not think to check what the wort temp coming out of the pump was at that point. I was just checking the mash temp from the top of the bag.
 
Wow, I'll be interested to hear what those who are more experienced with that type of setup say. It has me wondering what my experience will be. I did do a dry run and my setup, with just water and a relatively slow flow rate ramped to temp and held quite nicely.

It may be much different with grains in there, but the flow rate was what I'd expect to use with grains in place.
 
Just brew again this weekend and with 156* set on my PID and i had 153/152 discharging from my pump on to the top of the grist/bag. I played around with my set temps and the wort did not hit 156* until i had 165* for my set temp. That kinda worried me and i am not sure this is what i should do to get my mash temp to where i want it. Will having the wart at 165*F below the falsebottom and have the pump discharge on top of the bag/grist to get it to mix/equalize to the 156*F target mash temp have any ill effects???

My process to do this was to slowly tweek the set temp up a 1-2 degrees, wait for it to stabilize, and took the temp from the top of the bag/grist after stirring it up real good. I had the pump recirculating about 50% of the time. I bumped the set temp up 1-2 degrees every 8-10 min so by the end of my mash i was at a set temp of 165 and i finally hit my desired mash temp of 156. I also have a temp probe mounted in the wall of my kettle that would be about halfway between the falsebottom and top of the wort, and the temp was within one degree of the top of grist temp that i measured with my hand thermometer.
Heating the wort below the FB to 165 is going to greatly speed up denaturing of enzymes, and you may run out of diastatic power before conversion is complete. This will depend on your crush, which affects the gelatinization rate (which is the rate controlling step in conversion.)

Brew on :mug:
 
I did some testing last night. With just 11 gal of water I put the set temp to 156*f and took the temp coming out of the pump and at the top of the water and they were both at 156. My system held the temp right on for the 30 min I tested it for.

so I am completely dumbfounded at this point as to what is going on with the temps once I have a bag with grain in there.
 
Heating the wort below the FB to 165 is going to greatly speed up denaturing of enzymes, and you may run out of diastatic power before conversion is complete. This will depend on your crush, which affects the gelatinization rate (which is the rate controlling step in conversion.)

Brew on :mug:

I hit my target OG right on so I guess I lucked on with this batch.
 
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