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EBay fish tank controller build using Wal-mart parts

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dmbaty said:
Not sure if anyone has commented on this yet (didn't see a reply) but you sefinitely want to prevent short cycles on the compressor. Using a container of water would be one way, but you may want to consider changing the hysteresis (or "differential") to something more than a single degree to help with this even more.

And max out the compressor delay setting (10 min?).
 
Not sure if anyone has commented on this yet (didn't see a reply) but you definitely want to prevent short cycles on the compressor. Using a container of water would be one way, but you may want to consider changing the hysteresis (or "differential") to something more than a single degree to help with this even more.

You can set the compressor on a time delay with the STC-1000. And set a larger swing.

MC
 
I just built this guy yesterday, and tested it out on a lamp. Worked well...lamp was on until I stuck the sensor in a cup of ice water and it turned off. Today I went and plugged my chest freezer into it and nothing. The lamp doesn't work either.

The temp controller has power and is reading the temperature properly. The lamp and freezer both work independently of the controller. Is my most like problem simply that a wire wiggled itself loose? Chest freezer is 1.3A normal operation 9A startup. The STC-1000 is a 10A/220V. Someone in a different thread posted that he took his apart and the relays are 10A/220V or 15A/110V.

Thanks!
 
Well scratch that. It's working now. I originally had the compressor delay set to 10 minutes, but I thought that would have reset itself when I unplugged the controller to move it. Looks like it just had to be plugged in for >10 minutes for that lock to go away.

Sweet! Kegs here we come.:mug:
 
Hi

The STC-1000 works perfectly fine with the sensor taped to the wall of a freezer. You simply need to set a wide enough control window (F2) so it does not go nuts. The beer in the freezer never sees the wall temperature, so it just sits there in the middle of the control window.

I know this sounds a bit odd, but here's a check you can do. Take your "sensor in a water bottle" setup and let it run. Put another sensor on the wall of the fridge. It's already moving all over the place as the compressor cycles. There's no difference in how things actually run with the two approaches.

The advantage of tape to the wall is you have one less thing to clutter up the freezer...

Bob
 
Hi

The STC-1000 works perfectly fine with the sensor taped to the wall of a freezer. You simply need to set a wide enough control window (F2) so it does not go nuts. The beer in the freezer never sees the wall temperature, so it just sits there in the middle of the control window.

I know this sounds a bit odd, but here's a check you can do. Take your "sensor in a water bottle" setup and let it run. Put another sensor on the wall of the fridge. It's already moving all over the place as the compressor cycles. There's no difference in how things actually run with the two approaches.

The advantage of tape to the wall is you have one less thing to clutter up the freezer...

Bob

My neighbor for whom I had built a walmart type controller was reporting that when the sensor was "loose", the heat would turn on. The problem with having it in mid-air is that the sensor sees a massive amount of fluctuation. I tape my sensor sandwiched between the carboy, and a sheet of paper towel folded over down to 4x4".

MC
 
My neighbor for whom I had built a walmart type controller was reporting that when the sensor was "loose", the heat would turn on. The problem with having it in mid-air is that the sensor sees a massive amount of fluctuation. I tape my sensor sandwiched between the carboy, and a sheet of paper towel folded over down to 4x4".

MC

Hi

Exactly correct. Variability is a *bad* thing inside a control loop. You want your sensor nailed in place and not going anyplace. You also don't want it blocked from air flow as you move stuff around inside the keezer. Tape it to the wall up over the hump.

Bob
 
I am still debating placement but I currently have my sensor in a section of cornie diptube with an alumalloy plug melted in the bottom of it to give it some thermal mass.

image-215185109.jpg
 
I have mine hanging in the freezer. I set like a 2 degree temp swing. And maxed out the delay to 10 min. I'm fermenting in mid 60's. Fold a paper towel and tape to side wall?
 
Help! I wired this up and it worked great, except didn't break the tab so it always turned on both outlets. I only need to cool, but to be safe I went ahead and opened it up and broke the tab. Now, it still powers up, but the cool light blinks and neither outlet ever gets any power. Thoughts?
 
Help! I wired this up and it worked great, except didn't break the tab so it always turned on both outlets. I only need to cool, but to be safe I went ahead and opened it up and broke the tab. Now, it still powers up, but the cool light blinks and neither outlet ever gets any power. Thoughts?

Did you break the hot (brass tab) or the Neutral (chrome tab) Also, you must now have Hots going to both brass screws to power both recepticals.
 
Help! I wired this up and it worked great, except didn't break the tab so it always turned on both outlets. I only need to cool, but to be safe I went ahead and opened it up and broke the tab. Now, it still powers up, but the cool light blinks and neither outlet ever gets any power. Thoughts?

The blinking cool light (or heat, for that matter), indicates that the device is on "compressor delay". Check option F3, and see what it says there. I have my F3 delay set to 5 minutes.

MC
 
The blinking cool light (or heat, for that matter), indicates that the device is on "compressor delay". Check option F3, and see what it says there. I have my F3 delay set to 5 minutes.

MC

Hi

For a normal compressor based system, I'd suggest taking the F3 up to 10 minutes. If that creates timeouts, I'd take a look at sensor placement and the F2 setting (as in: "is it to small?").

Bob
 
Anybody use an inline fuse? I put one in my build and it keeps popping. (10 amp) Any thoughts?
 
Hi all. New here so thanks in advance for any/all info. Just got a used chest freezer yesterday and looking to build one of these temp controllers. I only want the one stage controller for cooling. I feel like I read this entire thread and didn't see any wiring diagrams for wiring the one stage for cooling? With that said....how would this differ than the original wiring diagram for the two stage? Thanks!
 
Hi all. New here so thanks in advance for any/all info. Just got a used chest freezer yesterday and looking to build one of these temp controllers. I only want the one stage controller for cooling. I feel like I read this entire thread and didn't see any wiring diagrams for wiring the one stage for cooling? With that said....how would this differ than the original wiring diagram for the two stage? Thanks!

Not that much difference: Don't break the tab on the electric outlet, and only one run wire from the output of the controller to the outlet.

There are diagrams on this board showing what you are looking for.

MC
 
I built this today, and I can't get it to work :(

It powers on fine, and the temperature displays properly and is accurate, but I do not receive any output from my two outlets when heating or cooling. Should I hear a audible click when the relay engages? I don't hear anything at all. I wired it using the schematic provided by the OP, but I did make a tiny mistake when I broke the tab off of both sides of the outlet, but I reconnected the white screws with a bit of extra wire. I can hear something loose in the unit when I move it around, so I'm thinking I got a bad one. Any suggestions? I don't really want to return this to Hong Kong.
 
Snicks said:
I built this today, and I can't get it to work :(

It powers on fine, and the temperature displays properly and is accurate, but I do not receive any output from my two outlets when heating or cooling. Should I hear a audible click when the relay engages? I don't hear anything at all. I wired it using the schematic provided by the OP, but I did make a tiny mistake when I broke the tab off of both sides of the outlet, but I reconnected the white screws with a bit of extra wire. I can hear something loose in the unit when I move it around, so I'm thinking I got a bad one. Any suggestions? I don't really want to return this to Hong Kong.

Yes, the relay makes an audible click, although not very loud. If it's not working it could be that you're not waiting long enough for the compressor delay, you got a 220v version and are trying to run it on 110v, it's wired wrong, or it's a faulty unit. What is compressor delay set to? What are the lights on the front of the unit doing (on, off, flashing)?
 
Yes, the relay makes an audible click, although not very loud. If it's not working it could be that you're not waiting long enough for the compressor delay, you got a 220v version and are trying to run it on 110v, it's wired wrong, or it's a faulty unit. What is compressor delay set to? What are the lights on the front of the unit doing (on, off, flashing)?

The compressor delay is 3min and I waited till the light stopped flashing to test, also double checked the wiring and tested connections with a multimeter.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/390439422307...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3576wt_1397

This is the auction I bought, and it says 110V. The diagram on the auction and on my unit say 220VAC so I guess they shipped me the wrong one, unless they use the 220V diagram for all of the units. Thanks for the help, guess I will try and contact the seller. :mad:
 
Snicks said:
The compressor delay is 3min and I waited till the light stopped flashing to test, also double checked the wiring and tested connections with a multimeter.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/390439422307?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3576wt_1397

This is the auction I bought, and it says 110V. The diagram on the auction and on my unit say 220VAC so I guess they shipped me the wrong one, unless they use the 220V diagram for all of the units. Thanks for the help, guess I will try and contact the seller. :mad:

They often send the same diagram for all units. To verify the voltage you can pop the cover off and look at the transformer. Sounds like you may have gotten a bad one.
 
They often send the same diagram for all units. To verify the voltage you can pop the cover off and look at the transformer. Sounds like you may have gotten a bad one.

I'm going to wait till I hear from the seller before I open it up because I'd have to destroy the sticker.

I unwired everything and then just hooked up the power and sensor. When it kicked into cooling I measured infinite resistance directly on the cooling terminals, guess its dead or the wrong unit for sure. I appreciate the help.
 
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