ebay aquarium temp controller build

[SHOOK]

Am I making some grave error in my wiring theory?

 

[SHOOK]

When I insert the ends of the probe wire into the thermostat, do I need to tighten the screws or will they stay in on their own? Tighten

My extension cord will have three wires inside - Live, Neutral, and Ground. I attach the live wire to outlets 1, 6 and 8 (according to the included wiring diagram. The one in this thread says 1, 5, and 7 - I assume this shouldn't make a difference?) why wire differently?

see above

 

[CorneliusAlphonse]

why wire differently?

because by wiring them the other direction, I would be following the instructions included with the temp controller, instead of those posted by android. I'd rather not burn out a diode if it has one in there.. but I don't know.

thanks for the other answer too

 

[EricT]

Is this build a lot cheaper then the Ranco for 100.00?

 

[badmajon]

Hey I just got mine in the mail. What is this little tiny thing on a wire that came with it? Is it the sensor? Just a little pill sized rubber thing?

 

[jmferris]

Hey I just got mine in the mail. What is this little tiny thing on a wire that came with it? Is it the sensor? Just a little pill sized rubber thing?

Yep. That is your temperature sensor.

 

[dan6]

Somewhere in this thread I could swear I saw info on how to include a relay to power fans so they will be activated by either the heating or cooling mode of the controller,but I can't seem to find it now. I just ordered a controller and since I would also want to add fans to my system I was wondering if someone could help me out with some sort of schematic and information about what configuration of relay I should use. Any help would sure be appreciated.Thanks.

 

[Ki-ri-n]

I followed this:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/fully-temperature-controlled-fermentation-chamber-about-200-a-175456/

Works great!

 

[dan6]

Thanks Ki-ri n

 

[badmajon]

Huh so I got the controller, I looked at it and just figured plug wire goes in, then one pos/neg set each out from the hot and cold to the plugs. Wow, was I wrong! This is a bit more complicated!

 

[mikeal]

A few general questions:

- Does it matter if the indicator lamp is wired in series or parallel with the load? If so, why?

- Is there a reason to have a power switch instead of just unplugging it when you want it to turn off?

- Where are folks getting the stress relief grommets for the power cord?

 

[mattd2]

A few general questions:

- Does it matter if the indicator lamp is wired in series or parallel with the load? If so, why?

- Is there a reason to have a power switch instead of just unplugging it when you want it to turn off?

- Where are folks getting the stress relief grommets for the power cord?

I'll try answer these but if anyone has better answers go with them
1. I would wire in parrallel, as if you did wire in series the indicator lamp would have to take the current of the load and I would guess most wouldn't handle that (someone with more knowledge should be consulted though)
2. Best practice, that is what a switch is made for so you are not plugging/unpluggin hot equipment which could lead to damage, probably not but could.
3. So that if the cord gets pulled on there is a lower risk that any of the wires inside the box get pulled off what they are connected to.

 

[butler1244]

Built this at work on Friday with the added lamps. Works great and it's such a relief to not have to plug in and unplug my thermawrap constantly.

For anyone debating whether or not they want to try building this...I have little to no electrical experience and I was able to do it without running into any issues. Just be careful carving out the project box slots...I cut my finger pretty bad with my leatherman

 

[Walker]

- Does it matter if the indicator lamp is wired in series or parallel with the load? If so, why?

It has to be wired in parallel. When things are wired in parallel, then both items see 120V. If you wire them in series, the two items combined will see 120V. Plus, wires in series means that both items will see a current flow that the hungrier item wants. This can result in a bulb frying because the fridge could want more current than the bulb is able to handle.

- Is there a reason to have a power switch instead of just unplugging it when you want it to turn off?

The controller already has a power button on it. You don't need any additional switches of any kind.

- Where are folks getting the stress relief grommets for the power cord?

You can get those in the electrical section of Lowe's or Home Depot. Look for "cord grips".

 

[Walker]

My extension cord is rated 13A / 1625 W - will this be fine for a standard 2-keg minifridge? (I assume it will - I had the fridge running on this wire before i got the regulator.)

That cord is fine. I use the same thing.

When I insert the ends of the probe wire into the thermostat, do I need to tighten the screws or will they stay in on their own?

tighten.

My extension cord will have three wires inside - Live, Neutral, and Ground. I attach the live wire to outlets 1, 6 and 8 (according to the included wiring diagram. The one in this thread says 1, 5, and 7 - I assume this shouldn't make a difference?)

I then attach a wire from 7 (8 according to the wiring diagram in this thread) to my outlet. (i'm only using for cooling).

I attach the neutral wire to the outlet and to 2 (on the thermostat)

I attach ground to the outlet

Is this all? Am I making some grave error in my wiring theory?

You are fine here.

The pairs of screws that form the switches (5&6 or 7&8) are completely are just two terminals that will be connected together when the controller says it's time for heating or cooling to happen.

It makes absolutely no difference whether you connect your incoming hot to 5 and 7 or whether you connect to 6 and 8. Hell, if you want to, connect to 5 and 8 or connect or 6 and 7. As long as you are connecting one side of the pair to live 120V and the other side of the pair to your outlet, it's totally irrelevant.

 

[Walker]

It makes absolutely no difference whether you connect your incoming hot to 5 and 7 or whether you connect to 6 and 8. Hell, if you want to, connect to 5 and 8 or connect or 6 and 7. As long as you are connecting one side of the pair to live 120V and the other side of the pair to your outlet, it's totally irrelevant.

Oh... and it makes no difference whether whether you connect black wire to 1 and white to 2 for the controller power source or vice versa either.

 

[Flomaster]

I just wired up my dual stage controller last night just before flame out. It works like charm. I love having a heat source plugged in so I don't have to keep plugging in a heating pad

-= Jason =-

 

[rasherb]

Is this build a lot cheaper then the Ranco for 100.00?

Sooo much cheaper. And you can customize to make it look as cool as you like. I'm thinking of painting a skull and some flames on mine.

 

[Flomaster]

I picked up a box from good will for .50 cents. It was some type of card catalog box with a hinged lid. I'll snap a photo tonight.

Cost =
controller $27
Outlet $2.50
Box $.50
50' 16ga christmas green extension cord $8.99

Total = $38.99

Cheaper than Anything else you bet.

-= Jason =-

 

[EricT]

Sooo much cheaper. And you can customize to make it look as cool as you like. I'm thinking of painting a skull and some flames on mine.

Well, that solves it then. Looks like my next project after I get done with my stand. Although, I wont need the heat portion till next year

 

[SHOOK]

Cost =
controller $27
Outlet $2.50
Box $.50
50' 16ga christmas green extension cord $8.99

Total = $38.99



-= Jason =-

mine came out a bit more expensive then above

more like :

controller $27
Outlet $2.50
Box $6.99
15' 16ga extension cord $14.99 (couldnt find a cheaper one at HD... might be able to fine one cheaper at walmart or lowes)

Total = $51.48.. still better then $100

 

[MoPhunk]

I've been waiting to do this build and finally found a freezer. What is the link to the current ebay item so i can get my purchase on and start another project that SWMBO will have to tolerate.

 

[EricT]

I've been waiting to do this build and finally found a freezer. What is the link to the current ebay item so i can get my purchase on and start another project that SWMBO will have to tolerate.

Just ordered mine from this guy:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-Digital-Te...M%2BLA&otn=12&ps=63&clkid=7574385198967268389

 

[MoPhunk]

Thanks for the quick reply

 

[badmajon]

Oh get yourself a precision screwdriver set! I'm so pissed. I finally got all my wires cut, placed and ready to go and what do you know, I don't own a tiny slotted head screwdriver to screw the stupid contacts down on the temperature controller. Fuuuudddggggeee. But I didn't say fudge.

 

[EricT]

Thanks for the quick reply

No Problem, but this is shipping form Hong Kong so if you want one sooner you might want to search for another seller. I am in no hurry so don't mind waiting a couple weeks.

 

[CorneliusAlphonse]

You are fine here.

Walker:

thanks so much for the reply. it was the perfect vote of confidence on my assumptions that i needed. now I can do this tomorrow!

cheers.

 

[Flomaster]

Here is my fermenting controller


-= Jason =-

 

[agezzi]

What size of box should I get?
As well I'd like to say thank you to all on home brew talk, I have found a hobby that i love.O and some kick ass people who share my passion

 

[mikeal]

The 7x5x3 box from Radio Shack seems to be the most popular option.