ebay aquarium temp controller build

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Ordered mine today for my 30 gallon fermenter project, should that fail then I will have it for future DIY's.
 
I'm using this temp. controller which can switch between both heating and cooling. It works very well but I'm wondering if anyone here knows if it is possible to connect it to a computer in any way? I would like to connect it to a computer that can be run via remote desktop, since I'm not living the same place where I brew. If this can be done, it would be superb to control the fermentation temperatures remotely :)
 
I don't think there is a way to hook that directly up to a PC, and if you were to try and indirectly do that then I think your cost might be within the BCS-460 range. If that were the case I'd pick up an el-cheapo SSR and run the fridge through the BCS-460.
 
Another solution is to build a robot that is controlled remotely by your computer and have it capable of pushing the buttons on the temp controller. It seems like an overkill solution, but it's simpler then you think. just make sure you don't give it any AI or the ability to make other "evil" robots. Also, don't arm it.

Good luck! :mug:
 
We got a nifty glass door merchandiser to use for lagering and controlled fermenting. It is rigged for 33-38 degrees. I want to keep it it as stock as possible. I was thinking I could bypass the thermostat instead of turning the whole thing on and off with an external controller. The lights are pretty nifty.

I ordered the "aquarium temp controller" on eBay from the usual suspect.

Can I take the wire into the stock thermo and attach it to the controller, then use the wire out of the thermo to the controller?

Fridge:
img00019-20100823-1705.jpg


Thermostat:
4928046099_c9ea2494e8.jpg


My idea is to use the pink wires to 7 and 8 in this diagram:
wiring_fermenter.gif


I am going to use an aquarium heater (or something similar) if it looks like we will need it.

Does this make sense?

I have ordered a wiring schematic for the fridge and don't have the controller in hand yet, so I am way ahead of myself, but can't stop thinking about it...
 
seanoj said:
We got a nifty glass door merchandiser to use for lagering and controlled fermenting. It is rigged for 33-38 degrees. I want to keep it it as stock as possible. I was thinking I could bypass the thermostat instead of turning the whole thing on and off with an external controller. The lights are pretty nifty.
Click to expand...

Nice, but are the interior lights florescent? Florescent light + clear carboy = skunking.
 
Yes florescent. I did not know about skunking. Is this a function of the wavelength of the light? Is there a beer safe florescent?

More things to think about...
 
two problems with you idea.

1. you have to have a temperature sensor hooked up to the controller. The stock one or even some other aftermarket one may not work with this controller, so that's something to think about. not all temperature sensors are the same (RTD vs. TC vs. PTC vs. NTC, etc)

2. you are shorting pins 6 and 8 together via the fan wiring (orange wire) so they will both kick on whenever one is on. you need to use a relay to control the fan. someone posted a schematic a couple pages back.


EDIT: Found the post: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/index29.html#post2157977
 
Bjornbrewer,

Thanks.

1) I was thinking of bypassing the thermostat completely, using the temp probe that comes with the controller. Basically using the controller to replace only the relay functions of the stock thermostat.

2) I am thinking of using the fan that is already in the fridge for heating as well. I like the design of the schematic you linked to. I think this is a much better way to go.

Putting a shirt on the carboy is an elegant, low-tech solution to block light. I know that T-shirt material does not block all light, but I would figure it works well on <500 nm light.
 
seanoj said:
Yes florescent. I did not know about skunking. Is this a function of the wavelength of the light? Is there a beer safe florescent?

More things to think about...
Click to expand...

Yes, it is a function of the wavelength of the light. As others have mentioned you can cover the carboys. Also a lot of those merchandisers have a light switch to turn off the interior lights. I don't think there is a beer safe florescent, but I haven't ever shopped for one.
 
The UV beer paper (from basic brewing radio) is cool.

Here in Los Angeles there are big sales pushes for UV absorbing (reflecting?) clothing to prevent skin cancer. They say a plain white T-Shirt has an SPF of 5. Putting one on your fermenter might not make much of a skunk protector after all.

I was thinking of using something like this to block all <500 nm wavelength:
http://www.encapsulite.com/semiconductor.html

I think this thread is drifting a bit off topic.

I got the schematic from the manufacturer. The unit had four powered functions. Compressor, fan, lights and evaporator (for the drip pan). I am thinking of running the fan and evaporator when the compressor runs (for cooling), the fan and a heating element when the temp is below limits and the lights all the time (interior light is on a door activated switch). I will work something up over the weekend and bounce it off you guys then.

-Sean
 
Just wanted to say thanks to android and everyone else for all the helpful info. I just finished my temp controller and working great. Going to brew my next batch later this week and I'll put it to use. I have to use my shop fridge for now, but I think it will work great. Thanks again for sharing... :mug:

100_1518.jpg
 
I inquired diytrade and they're about 13 a piece with freight from Shanghai for minimum order quantity (MOQ) 100. You could beat the other guy on shipping (his is $10) and a buck or 2 on price and still come out ahead.

I don't know if there are any duty fees involved or not. They ship airborne, so probably not.
 
Built mine this weekend.

102_0327.jpg


102_0326.jpg


I used a jack from a computer power supply for the power. I tried using the relay but something went wrong and I smoked the relay. So i just wired the fan to come on when either heat or cool was called for.
 
Built one this weekend as well. Unfortunately, I bought the wrong controller. I got the single stage instead of the two stage. I still wired it up for two stage and will buy a two stage unit and swap it out.

BEWARE which one you order. It is not easy to tell based on the eBay listing as he does not state which model number you are bidding on. Check the photo for the correct schematic. Barring that, you should state that you want a two stage unit (model number STC-1000) and NOT the one stage (STC-200).

Here is an example of a listing or a controller that works (two stage):
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-Digital-Te...962?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0314bf32

Here is the one I ordered erroneously (single stage):
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-Temperatur...991?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0315a1df

Unfortunately, the links above will only be good for a while, but they give good examples. Note the single stage says 102c while dual stage does not. Also the dual stage has the schematic as one of the pictures while the single does not.

I will use the single stage one I have now to control my kegerator and will probably wire it directly into the guts of the old beater (a 1970's era BevAir I bought from some heavy metal band, probably stolen from a banquet hall in 1986).
 
Just for posterity, since the links above will go dead...

This is what the dual stage (good) one looks like:
sCYsD.png


This is what the single stage (crappy) one looks like:
3uk90.png


Notice the 4 buttons instead of 2, and the "Heat" and "Cool" labels on the dual-stage.
 
I am new to the forum, but have been following this thread for a little while and finally got myself one of these controllers and installed it this weekend.

Instead of wiring it into a box with an outlet I took the approach of wiring it directly into the the fridge replacing the factory thermostat (based on this design https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/side-side-fermentation-chamber-build-105054/). I have not hooked up the hot side yet as I don't quite need it yet this year.

I used 14/2 wire, pulled out the ground as it wasn't needed, and used an extra piece of white wire with the black stripes which goes back to the relay in the fridge to turn it on. I made all the connections behind the controller with push on connectors and spade connectors inside the wire housing of the fridge.

Here is how it looks on the door of the fridge: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/05NkQCipJ9crZV_L3EVicw0WnSYwTZXP6B4edoFLboY?feat=directlink

Backside of the controller inside the fridge:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7KNbDQIsvSDPI3LN29kGZQ0WnSYwTZXP6B4edoFLboY?feat=directlink

It's taped and insulated to the keg which is full of a Pale Ale clone which was brewed on Saturday:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rzIg3VIdtgJC8RDC201zJw0WnSYwTZXP6B4edoFLboY?feat=directlink

Thanks to everyone who's contributed to this thread with their designs, this was really fun and an awesome dual stage controller for $30 + $14 parts from HD to install this.
 
just an update, i've been using this thing to control my keezer (set at about 37 deg) for roughly 6 months now and it's still humming right along. plus, my keezer is in my garage which gets super hot during the summer (therefore, a lot of cycling on/off) and no problems to report.
 
The schematic looks correct. Make sure to break the tab that connects the bottom two terminals on the outlet (the two with the light blue lines) while retaining the other tab (light grey line -probably the white wire in from your power cord).
 
Bjornbrewer said:
2. you are shorting pins 6 and 8 together via the fan wiring (orange wire) so they will both kick on whenever one is on. you need to use a relay to control the fan.
Click to expand...


smakudwn said:
I used a jack from a computer power supply for the power. I tried using the relay but something went wrong and I smoked the relay. So i just wired the fan to come on when either heat or cool was called for.
Click to expand...

I didn't think it was possible to have the fan come on with the heating AND cooling circuit without the use of the relay? Wouldn't both heating and cooling be triggered due to the fan shorting the other circuit? something is not adding up here
 
infection said:
I didn't think it was possible to have the fan come on with the heating AND cooling circuit without the use of the relay? Wouldn't both heating and cooling be triggered due to the fan shorting the other circuit? something is not adding up here
Click to expand...


U know i didn't even test that but i think your right. I might just have the fan run all the time or get a new relay. Thanks!
 
seanoj said:
The schematic looks correct. Make sure to break the tab that connects the bottom two terminals on the outlet (the two with the light blue lines) while retaining the other tab (light grey line -probably the white wire in from your power cord).
Click to expand...

So basically seperate those two terminals from connecting to each other?
 
Separate the "hot" side of the outlet. The black (hot) side is controlled individually by the controller. The white side (neutral) should be on all the time (hence joined). Also, you need to get the white into the controller, so it needs to be joined too.

Basically, the circuit is black to white. White (neutral) is always waiting for black (hot) to connect. Black is controlled by the STC-1000. You want to have the controller to turn only one outlet on to cool so you keep the "cold" black side separated from the "heat" black.

The controller decides the temp is too hot, one outlet gets black on (the other remains off). The controller decides too cold, the other outlet get black on (the other remains off). The controller decides the temp is Goldilocks, and both blacks are off.

Does this make sense?

ebaywireup.jpg
 
seanoj said:
Built one this weekend as well. Unfortunately, I bought the wrong controller. I got the single stage instead of the two stage. I still wired it up for two stage and will buy a two stage unit and swap it out.
Click to expand...

If I use this as a keezer temp control (no heat needed) would the single stage work fine? Or is there something else about the two stage that makes it better?
 
The single stage will work fine for a keezer in your home. If you were to place the keezer where it might get too cold (freezing) then you might want the heat feature.

The single stage I got has a defrost cycle that might be useful for a freezer application.

I was concerned that the two stage might not be as accurate or precise as the single stage, but the specs seem very similar.

Oddly, I was able to get the two stage cheaper than the single stage.
 
Just got my controller today :rockin: Did a quick test and it works. No errors and both the heating & cooling sides switch "on" as they should. Pretty accurate compared to my other temp probe.

I have my fermentation cabinet built (cooling side only right now). Just need to wire this bad boy in and throw a batch in it :ban:

One thing that I think that is wrong, most of the diagrams in this post shows the hot or black going through the controller. I think it should be the white or neutral that is being switched.
 
Ki-ri-n said:
Just got my controller today :rockin:
One thing that I think that is wrong, most of the diagrams in this post shows the hot or black going through the controller. I think it should be the white or neutral that is being switched.
Click to expand...

Why would you think the white wire is the one?
If you look at your light switches at your house, its always the black.;)

In every PID controller wiring diagram I have seen, the black is what gets switched. I think, at least with this unit, polarity does not matter.
Click to expand...

seanoj the Love controller uses a relay to control the outside world and in the 120 V applications you referenced to the hot is the only one which you should switch.

Your model is a SSR out type controller which supplies the DC to the SSR and the switching is done by the solid state relay not the controller. In a 120V application you would switch again the hot only.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
The hot is usually always switched because it shortens the physical length of the energized wires in the device. If you switch the neutral leg, all the wires leading up to it are hot all the time and able to cross and short out. I dont know if running the neutral to the switched ports in this controller will cause a problem internally with the device but i used the hot leads for the safety reasons.
 

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