ebay aquarium temp controller build

[JuanMoore]

Where is the probe?

This.

And upping the delay to 10 min won't hurt anything, and might help save your compressor, especially if you have the probe just dangling.

 

[MMBB]

Hanging in mid air about 1/2 way between the top and bottom of the keezer. I have a cup of water in there to put the probe in that's getting to temp but it hasn't gotten there yet.

 

[pabloj13]

Hanging in mid air about 1/2 way between the top and bottom of the keezer. I have a cup of water in there to put the probe in that's getting to temp but it hasn't gotten there yet.

That's why it's cycling a lot. Put it in the water. Or put it under some bubble wrap and tape it to the keg.

 

[GuyBob]

Just picked up a controller. Couple things though. What gauge and amp wiring should I use for internal and main plug? I read that someone just cut a little more off plug wiring and used that. Also what rating outlet should I use? 15a 125 volts or 20a 125 volts. Does it matter? May be dumb questions but want to be on right track.

 

[day_trippr]

The relays on the STC1000 are rated for 10 Amps, so if you used 14 gauge wire you have head room there, and a 15A duplex outlet would be plenty...

Cheers!

 

[GuyBob]

Thanks for the information. That helps a lot.

 

[alien]

I just noticed that Amazon has the 110V STC-1000 for less than $20 now. Free shipping on $25 orders. That's better than waiting for a package from China.

http://amzn.to/16NXgvz

 

[ericclapton]

Has anyone run the temperature probe through the blowoff tube and have it sitting in the wort while fermenting? Came up with the idea but not sure how well it'd work

 

[fixitoscar]

I just noticed that Amazon has the 110V STC-1000 for less than $20 now. Free shipping on $25 orders. That's better than waiting for a package from China.

http://amzn.to/16NXgvz

wow very cool. I'm going to have to pick up an extra. gotta love amazon. Thanks for the link.

 

[tre9er]

Has anyone run the temperature probe through the blowoff tube and have it sitting in the wort while fermenting? Came up with the idea but not sure how well it'd work

That's not a horrible idea...someone try it! Probably need a long probe though.

 

[Justdrumin]

Anyone see anything wrong with my wiring? The bottom end of the outlets tab is broken. Black are my main power wires, green are hot, cold, and ground, white are neutral. I plugged it in and it threw the breaker. Any help is much appreciated!

 

[raouliii]

....The bottom end of the outlets tab is broken. ... I plugged it in and it threw the breaker....

Are you saying that the tab between the two Hot/Brass screws is broken off? What about the Neutral/Silver side? Does it trip the breaker immediately, or when the controller calls for cool or heat?

Make sure all your connections are tight and no shorts exist between over-stripped wires.

 

[passedpawn]

Has anyone run the temperature probe through the blowoff tube and have it sitting in the wort while fermenting? Came up with the idea but not sure how well it'd work

It used to be fairly common. Search thermowell. They come with a cork with 2 holes, one for the airlock and the other for the thermowell. You slide the temp probe into the thermowell.

They don't work as well as you would think. Temp swings WAY too big due to the time lag for the entire wort to change temp. If you control your temps manually, or just want to see the wort temp, it would be fine, but not with a controller. At least this was the responses I used to see.

 

[tre9er]

It used to be fairly common. Search thermowell. They come with a cork with 2 holes, one for the airlock and the other for the thermowell. You slide the temp probe into the thermowell.

They don't work as well as you would think. Temp swings WAY too big due to the time lag for the entire wort to change temp. If you control your temps manually, or just want to see the wort temp, it would be fine, but not with a controller. At least this was the responses I used to see.

I've heard that as well, which is why I prefer to strap the probe to the outer wall of the vessel. That will tell you that the wort is starting to reach the desired temp on the outside, and when the cooling/heating shuts-off, that bit of time where the ambient is still cooling/heating is fine because the inner-most wort hasn't reached the desired temp yet anyway.

This is also why finding the best temp differential and compressor delay is important. Otherwise you're on a roller coaster, the momentum takes you past each set-point. If you had immersed glycol, a probe directly in the wort might make sense because the temp changes are quick and efficient.

 

[tre9er]

Anyone see anything wrong with my wiring? The bottom end of the outlets tab is broken. Black are my main power wires, green are hot, cold, and ground, white are neutral. I plugged it in and it threw the breaker. Any help is much appreciated!

If you mean that the right side of the outlet, in the picture, has the tab broken but the left doesn't, that should be working fine. You have white flowing across the tab, running the left side of the outlet and continuing to power the controller. Black is powering the controller and then is switched to the right side (both outlets) of the outlet.

Seems like it should be fine.

 

[Justdrumin]

Are you saying that the tab between the two Hot/Brass screws is broken off? What about the Neutral/Silver side? Does it trip the breaker immediately, or when the controller calls for cool or heat?

Make sure all your connections are tight and no shorts exist between over-stripped wires.

The tab where my heat cool wires are connected is broken and the neutral side is not. It blows the breaker immediately. I'm most definitely not an electrician so by saying shorts by over stripped wires you mean that in the wiring nut, and in the controller itself are over stripped and should only be long enough for the controller to clamp on it? I might have over stripped and need to trim them.

Edit: I just had my wife look at it. I'm at work. I dont remember ever seeing anything about brass screws and silver screws....I broke the tab on the silver side...is my outlet toast? I mean its no big deal to buy another one at $1.50.

 

[raouliii]

The tab where my heat cool wires are connected is broken and the neutral side is not. It blows the breaker immediately. I'm most definitely not an electrician so by saying shorts by over stripped wires you mean that in the wiring nut, and in the controller itself are over stripped and should only be long enough for the controller to clamp on it? I might have over stripped and need to trim them.

Edit: I just had my wife look at it. I'm at work. I dont remember ever seeing anything about brass screws and silver screws....I broke the tab on the silver side...is my outlet toast? I mean its no big deal to buy another one at $1.50.

The side of the outlet with a silver screw should be wired as neutral and the brass screw side should be wired as hot. No. If you wired this wrong you can simply put a jumper in to replace the tab. The possibly over-stripped wires would be at the controller clamps. Copper touching between two wires would create a short and lead to a tripped breaker.

Is it a valid assumption that the other end of the power cable is pre-wired?

 

[JuanMoore]

Anyone see anything wrong with my wiring? The bottom end of the outlets tab is broken. Black are my main power wires, green are hot, cold, and ground, white are neutral. I plugged it in and it threw the breaker. Any help is much appreciated!

You have the hot side and neutral sides of the outlet reversed. As mentioned, the silver screws on the same side as the ground screw are for the neutral wires, and the brass screws on the other side are for the hot wires. You'll need to break the tab between the brass screws, and make a jumper to connect the silver screws where you broke the tab off. Or just use another outlet that doesn't have the neutral tab broken.

 

[tre9er]

You have the hot side and neutral sides of the outlet reversed. As mentioned, the silver screws on the same side as the ground screw are for the neutral wires, and the brass screws on the other side are for the hot wires. You'll need to break the tab between the brass screws, and make a jumper to connect the silver screws where you broke the tab off. Or just use another outlet that doesn't have the neutral tab broken.

I'm ignorant to this matter, but can you explain why this matters? I see 110v electric as two wires and a ground. Which of the two power wires goes where has never caused me any issues. In his illustration he has one side of the outlet powered all the time, the other is switched. Why does the hot/neutral matter?

I ask because as I said, I've never given it much mind, but I will if it's significant.

 

[Justdrumin]

The side of the outlet with a silver screw should be wired as neutral and the brass screw side should be wired as hot. No. If you wired this wrong you can simply put a jumper in to replace the tab. The possibly over-stripped wires would be at the controller clamps. Copper touching between two wires would create a short and lead to a tripped breaker.

Is it a valid assumption that the other end of the power cable is pre-wired?

Do you make a jumper out of a small piece of wire? I'll trim them at the controller a bit just to be sure of it. The instructions I followed had a nut on the neutral wires, but I suppose that's not necessary as well. I bought a 10' 3 prong power cord so that was all done for me. It sounds like once I flip everything to the other side ill be in business. Thanks all! I say it a lot, but I don't know what I would do without the fine folks on HBT.

 

[raouliii]

You have the hot side and neutral sides of the outlet reversed. As mentioned, the silver screws on the same side as the ground screw are for the neutral wires, and the brass screws on the other side are for the hot wires. You'll need to break the tab between the brass screws, and make a jumper to connect the silver screws where you broke the tab off. Or just use another outlet that doesn't have the neutral tab broken.

I agree with this post, however, the simple mistake of switching hot and neutral on the receptacle will NOT cause the circuit breaker to trip, especially if nothing is plugged into the receptacle. The OP has another problem.

I'm ignorant to this matter, but can you explain why this matters? I see 110v electric as two wires and a ground. Which of the two power wires goes where has never caused me any issues. In his illustration he has one side of the outlet powered all the time, the other is switched. Why does the hot/neutral matter?

I ask because as I said, I've never given it much mind, but I will if it's significant.

The simple answer is that it is standard practice and a National Electrical Code requirement associated with personal safety. Many current two prong plugs are polarized with wide and narrow blades and three prong plugs are polarized by design. This polarization exists to ensure consistent connection of hot and neutral to an appliance, which requires having receptacles wired to this standard as well. FWIW, neutral is considered the "grounded conductor" by NEC because it is grounded at the main and therefore has no electrical potential referenced to ground. Many applicances are designed with this standard in mind and applying 120VAC to the neutral of the appliance could present a danger to the user.

Does all this matter in this application? A simple heating element?, not so much. A freezer or refrigerator?, yes.

 

[JuanMoore]

I'm ignorant to this matter, but can you explain why this matters? I see 110v electric as two wires and a ground. Which of the two power wires goes where has never caused me any issues. In his illustration he has one side of the outlet powered all the time, the other is switched. Why does the hot/neutral matter?

I ask because as I said, I've never given it much mind, but I will if it's significant.

Mostly a safety and/or code issue. For a switched device, if you reverse the polarity that means you have voltage running through the device even when it's turned off. Many older devices connected the neutral to the chassis, and reversing the polarity would increase the risk of shock. Many electrical devices have fuses or other safety features to prevent a shock, but they'll only work if the polarity is correct. By switching the wires in the outlet, you're essentially disabling the safety features that could prevent a nasty electrical shock. Is it a significant issue? That's for you to decide for yourself. I was shocked once in an older house with metal boxes because of this. My drywall trowel touched one of the boxes, which was energized because someone had decided to reverse the polarity of the old style two prong receptacle with the neutral connected to the frame.

Maybe someone who's more knowledgeable in this area can give a better explanation.

I agree with this post, however, the simple mistake of switching hot and neutral on the receptacle will NOT cause the circuit breaker to trip, especially if nothing is plugged into the receptacle. The OP has another problem.

True, I didn't mean to imply otherwise.

 

[tre9er]

Ok, sorry to further de-rail the thread, if I'm doing so, but in an extension cord, white is hot, black is neutral then?

 

[JuanMoore]

Ok, sorry to further de-rail the thread, if I'm doing so, but in an extension cord, white is hot, black is neutral then?

No, white is always (supposed to be) neutral, green is ground, and black/red/other colors are hot (in the US).

 

[Justdrumin]

I agree with this post, however, the simple mistake of switching hot and neutral on the receptacle will NOT cause the circuit breaker to trip, especially if nothing is plugged into the receptacle. The OP has another problem.

The simple answer is that it is standard practice and a National Electrical Code requirement associated with personal safety. Many current two prong plugs are polarized with wide and narrow blades and three prong plugs are polarized by design. This polarization exists to ensure consistent connection of hot and neutral to an appliance, which requires having receptacles wired to this standard as well. FWIW, neutral is considered the "grounded conductor" by NEC because it is grounded at the main and therefore has no electrical potential referenced to ground. Many applicances are designed with this standard in mind and applying 120VAC to the neutral of the appliance could present a danger to the user.

Does all this matter in this application? A simple heating element?, not so much. A freezer or refrigerator?, yes.

So does this mean there may be a short somewhere if it tripped the breaker right away? I literally just barely put it in before the outlet popped and it tripped the breaker. I didn't have anything plugged in either. I still got a new outlet so I don't need a jumper and ill trim things up to see if it trips it again.

 

[raouliii]

So does this mean there may be a short somewhere if it tripped the breaker right away?....

Yes

...I literally just barely put it in before the outlet popped and it tripped the breaker. I didn't have anything plugged in either......

"put" WHAT "in"? The plug into an existing house receptacle?

What do you mean by "the outlet popped"? Did you hear or see an arc/spark in/on the receptacle?

Sorry for all the questions, but troubleshooting requires details.

 

[Justdrumin]

Yes

"put" WHAT "in"? The plug into an existing house receptacle?

What do you mean by "the outlet popped"? Did you hear or see an arc/spark in/on the receptacle?

Sorry for all the questions, but troubleshooting requires details.

No it's ok. I plugged the controller in the wall and I saw an arc and it made a popping sound. I bought a new outlet and the green (hot and cold) wires are properly wired to the brass screws with the tab broken. I trimmed the wires feeding into the controller and rewired them in. Now the controller won't turn on at all when plugged in. Did that arc fry my controller?

 

[GotPushrods]

I can't quite make out where all the wires in your pic go, especially with the green being used for stuff other than ground. I'll try and explain how I wire these and you can trace yours out and see if it's the same.

Just to get our terminology the same:

You have 3 wires coming into the box: Black (hot), white (neutral) and green (ground).

You have 8 holes on the controller for wires. These should be numbered. In case they are not, assume 1-2 is the "Power Suppy" side, 3-4 are the temp probe, 5-6 are "Heating", and 7-8 are for "Cooling".



The black (hot) wire gets split into 3 wires (wire nut holding 4 wires, 1 in, 3 out).
They go to:
1. Controller port 1 (power supply hot)
2. Controller port 5 (heating switch hot - in)
3. Controller port 7 (cooling switch hot - in)

The white (neutral) wire gets split into 3 wires (wire nut holding 4 wires, 1 in, 3 out).
They go to:
1. Controller port 2 (power supply neutral)
2. Receptacle neutral (silver screw - for heat)
3. Receptacle neutral (silver screw - for cooling). Ignore #3 if you are using a single receptacle with jumper.

The green (ground) wire gets split into 2 wires (wire nut holding 3 wires, 1 in, 2 out).
They go to:
1. Receptacle ground (for heat)
2. Receptacle ground (for cooling). Ignore #2 if you are using a single receptacle for both.


Controller port #6:
Run a black or red wire from #6 to the hot (brass) screw of the heating receptacle.

Controller port #8:
Run a black or red wire from #8 to the hot (brass) screw of the cooling receptacle.

*** Notice that you do not ever run the black (hot) input wire directly to a receptacle. It goes to the controller (a 'switch') which turns it off/on.


Take a look at yours real close and see if that helps. Please be careful, even 120v can hurt. A lot.

 

[Justdrumin]

I can't quite make out where all the wires in your pic go, especially with the green being used for stuff other than ground. I'll try and explain how I wire these and you can trace yours out and see if it's the same.

Just to get our terminology the same:

You have 3 wires coming into the box: Black (hot), white (neutral) and green (ground).

You have 8 holes on the controller for wires. These should be numbered. In case they are not, assume 1-2 is the "Power Suppy" side, 3-4 are the temp probe, 5-6 are "Heating", and 7-8 are for "Cooling".



The black (hot) wire gets split into 3 wires (wire nut holding 4 wires, 1 in, 3 out).
They go to:
1. Controller port 1 (power supply hot)
2. Controller port 5 (heating switch hot - in)
3. Controller port 7 (cooling switch hot - in)

The white (neutral) wire gets split into 3 wires (wire nut holding 4 wires, 1 in, 3 out).
They go to:
1. Controller port 2 (power supply neutral)
2. Receptacle neutral (silver screw - for heat)
3. Receptacle neutral (silver screw - for cooling). Ignore #3 if you are using a single receptacle with jumper.

The green (ground) wire gets split into 2 wires (wire nut holding 3 wires, 1 in, 2 out).
They go to:
1. Receptacle ground (for heat)
2. Receptacle ground (for cooling). Ignore #2 if you are using a single receptacle for both.


Controller port #6:
Run a black or red wire from #6 to the hot (brass) screw of the heating receptacle.

Controller port #8:
Run a black or red wire from #8 to the hot (brass) screw of the cooling receptacle.

*** Notice that you do not ever run the black (hot) input wire directly to a receptacle. It goes to the controller (a 'switch') which turns it off/on.


Take a look at yours real close and see if that helps. Please be careful, even 120v can hurt. A lot.

I followed all of that and everything is wired correctly, at least now it is. In the picture I had it wired wrong. The green wires were going from the heat cool end of the controller to the silver (which should have been wired with the white/neutral wires) screws. Since then I bought a new outlet and wired the green wires to the brass screws with the broken tab. My issue is when I plugged it in the first time (with the wrong configuration which is pictured) the outlet popped and arced tripping the breaker. I'm concerned that fried my brand new stc-1000. Any idea if its fried? With the new and correct configuration nothing happens when I hit the power button.

 

[raouliii]

No it's ok. I plugged the controller in the wall and I saw an arc and it made a popping sound. I bought a new outlet and the green (hot and cold) wires are properly wired to the brass screws with the tab broken. I trimmed the wires feeding into the controller and rewired them in. Now the controller won't turn on at all when plugged in. Did that arc fry my controller?

Exactly where did you see an arc and what made a popping sound?