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Cacaman

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Last night I took my kegerator to a party with this beer on tap. When we started serving, to my surprise the beer looked real muddy. Im guessing it's because of the movement during the trip, but it looked like coffee! The beer still tasted great, but it was a light brown color... Any thoughts on why this happened?
 

jbrookeiv

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Last night I took my kegerator to a party with this beer on tap. When we started serving, to my surprise the beer looked real muddy. Im guessing it's because of the movement during the trip, but it looked like coffee! The beer still tasted great, but it was a light brown color... Any thoughts on why this happened?
Definitely all the sediment kicked up from the bottom of the keg.
 

Cacaman

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jbrookeiv said:
Definitely all the sediment kicked up from the bottom of the keg.
True, but don't corny kegs suck the beer from the bottom of the kegs? I would figure the sediment would have gone with the first few glasses?
 

Rogue14

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I think that I will give this recipe a try when I brew on Saturday. It sounds like a nice warm weather brew.

Now if only we could get some warmer, non-rainy weather here in the PNW. :)
 

NLIGHTLE1

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I just brewed this but I pitched around 90 degrees not realizing I did untill it was to late. I used us-05 dry....am I screwed or should I be good it sitting in a room that 62 right now....this is my fourth brew am I just over thinking it
 
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NTOLERANCE

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I just brewed this but I pitched around 90 degrees not realizing I did untill it was to late. I used us-05 dry....am I screwed or should I be good it sitting in a room that 62 right now....this is my fourth brew am I just over thinking it
90 is a bit high. If fermentation starts, let it ride and see what happens. Its a pretty forgiving brew. :mug:
 
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NTOLERANCE

NTOLERANCE

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How much orange have you all been adding? Just the shavings from one orange?

I'm gonna make this brew this weekend. I'm planning on just using 3lb of Briess Golden Light DME (or perhaps NB Organic Light) and 3lb of Briess Wheat DME instead of messing with the LME. I'm still going to use the crystal, carapils, orange, and coriander.
Yes, one orange is what I have been using. Valencia, or your choice. Alternatively, one packet of sweet or bitter orange peel from the home brew shop.
 

NLIGHTLE1

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what do you think if i were to leave the orange zest out of the last ten minute additions and instead add bittering orange peels to the primary 2 days before i bottle. would it be to over powering of a orange flavor
 

Cacaman

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I remember when I was asking questions on what ingredients to buy about this brew a few weeks back. Glad to say several people along with myself, enjoyed all 5 gallons of this. Poured the last glass with a friend of mine last night. Will definitely brew this again very soon. Thanks again for the recipe!
 
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NTOLERANCE

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I remember when I was asking questions on what ingredients to buy about this brew a few weeks back. Glad to say several people along with myself, enjoyed all 5 gallons of this. Poured the last glass with a friend of mine last night. Will definitely brew this again very soon. Thanks again for the recipe!
It does get killed fast doesnt it?

I just made asimilair recipe that I am Kegging tonite.

Once I have it carbed and sampled, I will post the Easy Pale Ale recipe.
I came up with it at the LHBS, thought it out in my head and bought the stuff. Brew day went easy.....:mug:
 

heyjaffy

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Just kicked the last of my first batch of this tonight - poured some out of the keg to add to marinade for some ribs and the faucet started spittin' n' sputtering. Have to crank out another batch ASAP
 

mlstarbuck

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Assuming all my ingredients and supplies deliver in time, I'm going to brew this on Saturday or Sunday. It will be my first home brew.

I couldn't find any Munton's carb tabs at my LHBS, so I picked up some corn sugar. How much sugar should I use, and when do I add it?
 
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NTOLERANCE

NTOLERANCE

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Assuming all my ingredients and supplies deliver in time, I'm going to brew this on Saturday or Sunday. It will be my first home brew.

I couldn't find any Munton's carb tabs at my LHBS, so I picked up some corn sugar. How much sugar should I use, and when do I add it?
The easiest way is to use about 5 oz of it and mix it with your beer in a bottling bucket, then once mixed, use the spigot in the bucket to bottle your beer. Besically, siphon your beer form the primary fermentor, into the botling bucket, then ad the corn sugar. Mix with a sanitized spoon, then bottle.

If you dont have a bottling bucket, you can use a regular bucket and a siphon.
 

KillJoy

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I just bottled mine today. 10 Days in the Primary. No Secondary.

OG - 1.054
FG - 1.010

I mistakenly (???) doubled up on the .25 lbs carapils and .25 lbs crystal 20L. I am not certain how much of a difference this really makes, as this thing is AWESOME! Even flat it has a good flavor!

I ended up with 50 12oz Bottles, and about 1/2 of a coffee cup :D

:mug:

KillJoy
 

mlstarbuck

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The easiest way is to use about 5 oz of it and mix it with your beer in a bottling bucket, then once mixed, use the spigot in the bucket to bottle your beer. Besically, siphon your beer form the primary fermentor, into the botling bucket, then ad the corn sugar. Mix with a sanitized spoon, then bottle.

If you dont have a bottling bucket, you can use a regular bucket and a siphon.
Alright. Thanks for the reply. I can't wait to brew this.

On a different note, is 1 packet of the US-05 yeast enough? I hope so, because that's all I ordered... :confused:
 
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NTOLERANCE

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I just bottled mine today. 10 Days in the Primary. No Secondary.

OG - 1.054
FG - 1.010

I mistakenly (???) doubled up on the .25 lbs carapils and .25 lbs crystal 20L. I am not certain how much of a difference this really makes, as this thing is AWESOME! Even flat it has a good flavor!

I ended up with 50 12oz Bottles, and about 1/2 of a coffee cup :D

:mug:

KillJoy
It will be interesting to see how long it takes to carb in the bottles.:mug:

I dont think the extra carapils will hurt anything.
 

Justibone

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On a different note, is 1 packet of the US-05 yeast enough?
One packet of dry yeast is usually plenty for any batch up to 6 gallons.

If it is a very strong beer, or if you are making more than 6 gallons, you could make a starter by putting the yeast into about a liter of post-boil chilled wort, then covering it and letting the yeast reproduce in there for a day or so.

There are plenty of threads on how to make a starter here on the forum, but starters are only very rarely necessary for dry yeast (the two situations I can think of are: high osmolarity brews and yeast you aren't sure are still alive).
 

mlstarbuck

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I brewed this today, but I think I screwed up on several things.

The #7 size rubber stopper wouldn't stay in the carboy. I tried everything, but it kept pushing loose. I should have tested it beforehand. I panicked and transfered all the wort to a sanitized ale pail. I hope that in the process I didn't allow it to get infected.

I accidentally let some of the sediment past my funnel filter into the wort. I plan on bottling this. How do I remove the sediment? I don't want it in my bottles. Also ,what temp do I keep the bottles at after I fill them next Sunday?

Finally, it's been in the fermenter for about 4 hours but I don't think anything is happening. I poured the hot wort directly onto 2 gallons of the cold RO water, then topped off with another half gallon of it. I then pitched directly into the carboy.

My first brew day was more hectic than I envisioned. I'm probably over-thinking it...but the thought of ruining ~$40 worth of ingredients has me anxious.
 
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NTOLERANCE

NTOLERANCE

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See red below:

I brewed this today, but I think I screwed up on several things.

The #7 size rubber stopper wouldn't stay in the carboy. I tried everything, but it kept pushing loose. I should have tested it beforehand. I panicked and transfered all the wort to a sanitized ale pail. I hope that in the process I didn't allow it to get infected.So long as everything has been sanitized, you should be fine.

I accidentally let some of the sediment past my funnel filter into the wort. I plan on bottling this. How do I remove the sediment? I don't want it in my bottles. Also ,what temp do I keep the bottles at after I fill them next Sunday?There will be seditment regardless, but when you siphon (or if you have a ale pail with a bottling spigot) youre going to leave the sediment on the bottom of the fermentor, not much will end up in the bottle

Finally, it's been in the fermenter for about 4 hours but I don't think anything is happening. I poured the hot wort directly onto 2 gallons of the cold RO water, then topped off with another half gallon of it. I then pitched directly into the carboy. Relax and give it 24 hours

My first brew day was more hectic than I envisioned. I'm probably over-thinking it...but the thought of ruining ~$40 worth of ingredients has me anxious.
 

jjward101

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mlstarbuck said:
I brewed this today, but I think I screwed up on several things.

The #7 size rubber stopper wouldn't stay in the carboy. I tried everything, but it kept pushing loose. I should have tested it beforehand. I panicked and transfered all the wort to a sanitized ale pail. I hope that in the process I didn't allow it to get infected.

I accidentally let some of the sediment past my funnel filter into the wort. I plan on bottling this. How do I remove the sediment? I don't want it in my bottles. Also ,what temp do I keep the bottles at after I fill them next Sunday?

Finally, it's been in the fermenter for about 4 hours but I don't think anything is happening. I poured the hot wort directly onto 2 gallons of the cold RO water, then topped off with another half gallon of it. I then pitched directly into the carboy.

My first brew day was more hectic than I envisioned. I'm probably over-thinking it...but the thought of ruining ~$40 worth of ingredients has me anxious.
We all have had those first batch jitters.let me put your mind a bit at ease:
1. Fermentation can take up to 48 hours to show visible signs. Also, the airlock is not the end all indicator that fermentation is happening, but more of a helpful indicator...sometimes.
2. beer is more resilient than you think. It if actually kind of hard to completely ruin a batch
3.the most important thing to remember with brewing is that DETAILS MATTER! make sure you follow each recipes specific directions until you have the experience to know when and where to deviate from a recipe (I'm still not there).

Your sediment in the primary is no big deal.many just dump the whole kettle contents into the bucket. The yeast, and sediment will settle as they go their job. Your bottling process involves a siphon. Read the directions, and you will find that the sediment is mostly going to be left in your fermenter when you rack to secondary it your bottling bucket.

Now the serious stuff:
Rome wasnt built in a day. Good beer cant be done in a week. I have had a wheat beer in primary for almost a month now. I suggest you do some serious reading, or you wii end up wasting much more than 40 bucks worth of ingredients. You should be leaving that beer in the ale pale for three weeks (or 1 week in primary, 2 weeks in secondary), before you even think about bottling it. Once it is in bottles, at about 70 degrees, in adark area, leave it there for no les than 2 weeks, or it won't be properly carbed. Then, you need to cold condition for a few days before drinking.

It really seems to me, that you have some ideas if how things should go, but not everything. Please read through these forums, and use the search tool. Absolutely any question you can conjure up, has ben asked and answered a dozen times...answers coming from revvy,yooper,and goldiggie should be read twice...they are ALWAYS great answers.

Good luck

I am going to end my reply with one word:
Hydrometer.
 
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Brewing this next weekend All-Grain with Maris Otter (my house bulk base grain) and I decided to give WLP320 American Hefeweizen yeast a shot. Will let you know how it turns out.
 

DEWSBREW

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"My first brew day was more hectic than I envisioned. I'm probably over-thinking it...but the thought of ruining ~$40 worth of ingredients has me anxious"


Yeah I know what you mean!! I was a little shocked at the price of the ingredients, but then again I bought another keg and some other small stuff which made it right @ 100.00. I made this Saturday and it is fermenting away --and smells very good. I am hopeful that this will be the beer that will please everyone --but most importantly ME!!!! I guess I'll see in a couple of weeks.
 

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I misread my Brew Calendar and threw two bottles in the fridge a week early. After three weeks in the carboy and ten days in the bottle, this is what I have. I'm decently surprised at the carbonation level.

The taste is very drinkable!! I think I'll unveil a few six packs of this at a picnic on Memorial Day. I'm getting a gentle touch of the coriander right now and not too much orange but we'll let 'er warm up a bit and see what develops.

I'll defiantly add this to my rotation, perhaps trying to get a bit more malt profile next time. I generally like a bit more flavor but this might just be the very light and refreshing alternative that my pipeline needed right now and I'm happy with the outcome. Thanks again!

image-1214578267.jpg
 

Krrazy

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... by the way...how do you increase malt flavor an a batch like this? This was my first extract batch. I'm guessing the only "knob to turn" is to add more steeping grains?
 

NLIGHTLE1

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I just got to try the first bottle of this tonight and all I can say is WOW I followed the recipe to the T except the Orange at the last ten minutes instead I added bittering Orange peels the last four days before i bottled and it was awesome!!!!! I have the stuff to do the exact recipe this Sunday so I can let you guys know the difference if any....but honestly I think think is a fantastic brew that would be very hard to mess up....a big thx to the OP this will definitely stay in my line up for a ling time
 

Gopher40

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Have you done this with a full boil? I have always heard that if you are able to go with a full boil to do so, after steeping the grains in 2 1/2 - 3 gallons.
 
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NTOLERANCE

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... by the way...how do you increase malt flavor an a batch like this? This was my first extract batch. I'm guessing the only "knob to turn" is to add more steeping grains?
I dunno, I think its really heavy on the malt flavor the way it is. If anything it could be called too malty in my opinion.

I would go with light DME instead of wheat DME for more malt flavor.
 

Justibone

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... by the way...how do you increase malt flavor an a batch like this? This was my first extract batch. I'm guessing the only "knob to turn" is to add more steeping grains?
Mash at a slightly lower temp, like 147F, and you will get more malt sugars. Above 150F you get a combination of different sugars, but if you let your beta-amylase (starch-breaking enzyme) survive by staying below 150F, you should get a maltier beer.

Of course that makes a bigger difference the more grain you mash, as opposed to using extract.

http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-1.html
 

Krrazy

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Mash at a slightly lower temp, like 147F, and you will get more malt sugars. Above 150F you get a combination of different sugars, but if you let your beta-amylase (starch-breaking enzyme) survive by staying below 150F, you should get a maltier beer.

Of course that makes a bigger difference the more grain you mash, as opposed to using extract.
Thank you for the reply to my question...I think something got lost in the mix.

You alluded to it, but that explanation works for AG (which I usually do). This an extract recipe and there isn't any mashing involved...I was asking what one could do (if anything) to adjust the results of an extract batch to have a more malty finish.

It may be definition of terms but in my experience, mashing at lower temperatures results in more fermentable sugars which ultimately leads to a drier finished beer. I would mash at a higher temp to get more malty sweetness and body...but perhaps that just a matter of taste and description of "malty."
 

Cacaman

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He meant during the steeping of the grains before you add the extract. Read the OP carefully and you'll see what he meant.
 
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NTOLERANCE

NTOLERANCE

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Thank you for the reply to my question...I think something got lost in the mix.

You alluded to it, but that explanation works for AG (which I usually do). This an extract recipe and there isn't any mashing involved...I was asking what one could do (if anything) to adjust the results of an extract batch to have a more malty finish.

It may be definition of terms but in my experience, mashing at lower temperatures results in more fermentable sugars which ultimately leads to a drier finished beer. I would mash at a higher temp to get more malty sweetness and body...but perhaps that just a matter of taste and description of "malty."
I didnt check, but have you brewed this yet?
 

dcummings1998

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Pardon my ignorance, but unless I misread something it looks like you pour the hot wort into the primary without first cooling it. Am I correct, or did I miss that info? Does the precooled water do the trick?

If you don't need to cool it, I'm making this beer this weekend (don't have a chiller yet and don't want to borrow my friend's again).
 
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