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Easiest beer I have ever made recipe

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Pick the name of this brew

  • Easily Amused

  • Easy squeeze, lemon peazy

  • Easy Rider

  • Name your own brew, loser


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I remember NTOLERANCE saying it took him about 3 weeks to get it to his liking a few pages back. How long did it take for it to carb to your taste?

Let me elaborate a bit on how I force carb.

First, It put the keg under pressure at about 50 psi. It will sit there for about three days, and then I will drop the regulator down to about 10 psi.

I dont drop the keg down that low, just let the keg sit at that psi for the rest of the week. It will drop some on its own as the beer absorbs the CO2..(if i dont have room in the kegerator, i pressurise it to about 30 psi, then let it set at 60 deg in my fermenting shelf for the rest of the week, youll be surprised at how much more psi the beer/yeast can make on its own sometimes)

After the first week, I drop the keg pressure and the reg pressure down to a serving PSI and start sampling. I serve this beer just below 10 psi.
 
Thanks NTOLERANCE. This batch should finish fermenting tomorrow, I'll transfer it to the keg and use your method for carbonating. I hope I don't finish the beer before it's done carbonating :drunk:
 
Thanks NTOLERANCE. This batch should finish fermenting tomorrow, I'll transfer it to the keg and use your method for carbonating. I hope I don't finish the beer before it's done carbonating :drunk:

I dont claim to be the force carbing guru, but my system works for me. Allows me to sample and when I am satisfied, serve. :tank:
 
Lol I've followed your steps for this beer as exact as I could, why stop now. I kegged this beer today, and tasted one of the last drops of wort (or beer at this point), and all I can say is that I'm very excited. I was very surprised at the delicious taste, despite my freezer used for fermentation (at 62F) smelled like sh** during the week. It's sitting at 30psi at around 35F (my regulator only goes up to 30psi). I'll probably drop it to 10psi on thursday afternoon, and have my first sample on Friday or Saturday. The only thing I noticed, was that mine looked a lot lighter than yours. Yours looked almost completely brown... Mines a little more on the brown-yellow side. Oh well, we'll see how it turns out. Thanks again for the recipe and follow-through advice.

-Alex
 
Lol I've followed your steps for this beer as exact as I could, why stop now. I kegged this beer today, and tasted one of the last drops of wort (or beer at this point), and all I can say is that I'm very excited. I was very surprised at the delicious taste, despite my freezer used for fermentation (at 62F) smelled like sh** during the week. It's sitting at 30psi at around 35F (my regulator only goes up to 30psi). I'll probably drop it to 10psi on thursday afternoon, and have my first sample on Friday or Saturday. The only thing I noticed, was that mine looked a lot lighter than yours. Yours looked almost completely brown... Mines a little more on the brown-yellow side. Oh well, we'll see how it turns out. Thanks again for the recipe and follow-through advice.

-Alex

Crappy pics on my end likely on this pic.

What brand of extract did you use?

Wheres your pics btw? :ban:
 
I will be making this Sunday (Second Batch ever)

I dont have the kegging set up though. I will just be sticking it in bottles.
 
This weekend I'm making the move from kit to extract from recipe - eeek! This "easiest beer ever" thread has me excited, and I've now got all the ingredients and goodies ready to make this brew.

I do have one question about the recipe. It calls for RO water, and I've seen an awful lot of talk here about water for brewing. Can I just use tap water here? My tap water is really good. Does the combination of RO and tap being used here give you enough "stuff" in your water for success?

I'm happy to jump into experiments with water and water additives when I have a few successful batches under my liver, but for now "easiest ever" is what has my interest.

Thoughts from the crew?

Thanks in advance!!!
 
Tap water is fine. If it tastes good to drink, it will taste good in your beer.

HOWEVER...

Buying or filtering water will give you better results in the long run. Water is the #1 ingredient in beer, after all!
 
Water chemistry is more important when you start mashing grains. There is a lot more leeway when using extracts. If your water tastes good, you'll be fine.
 
Thank's for bringing this one back up. I was looking at an Amber for my next brew and I'm thinking about this one now.

beerloaf
 
Already made plans to make this my second brew, secured a ride to the LHBS for tomorrow. Way too excited about it.
 
I'm looking to make this can you clarify what you mean by this statement??

1.0 lbs of 2 Row
(carapils/dextrine in .5 lb would be a nice addition to increase foad/head rentention)

is it 1 lb of 2 row and .5lbs of carpils/dextrine??

Also I'm buying from Austin. will 3.5 lbs of each of the LME instead of 3.3lbs make much of a difference??
 
vanceromance said:
I'm looking to make this can you clarify what you mean by this statement??

1.0 lbs of 2 Row
(carapils/dextrine in .5 lb would be a nice addition to increase foad/head rentention)

is it 1 lb of 2 row and .5lbs of carpils/dextrine??

Also I'm buying from Austin. will 3.5 lbs of each of the LME instead of 3.3lbs make much of a difference??

I bought from Austin and used 3.5 of each of the LME's - tastes great!
 
Here it is in the carboy.

P1080132.jpg

What size is your bung? :cross:

I have the same carboy but haven't used it because I don't have a bung for it.
 
Subscribed to this thread, I'm going to brew this after i finish the kits I have in my garage waiting to be brewed :)
 
On water,

One of the reasons I used the RO water was simply to balance out my harsh tap water.
Another was to have the water in a container to chill it, so it becomes the wort chiller, so to speak.
Finally, There isnt anything in it to infect the beer, so you dont have to preboil it.

Chillers arent free, but if you can shill your "top up" water so to speak, you achieve nearly the same effect with little cost. RO water near me is .70 cents a gallon from the grocery stores. There isnt anything in it to infect the beer, so you dont have to preboil it.
 
I'm looking to make this can you clarify what you mean by this statement??

1.0 lbs of 2 Row
(carapils/dextrine in .5 lb would be a nice addition to increase foad/head rentention)

is it 1 lb of 2 row and .5lbs of carpils/dextrine??

Also I'm buying from Austin. will 3.5 lbs of each of the LME instead of 3.3lbs make much of a difference??

If youre going to do a partial mash, then yes both ingredients.

I wouldnt sweat the 3.5 vs 3.3. If youre concerned, drop the LME down some. But really, its not going to affect it.
 
NTOLERANCE said:
On water,

One of the reasons I used the RO water was simply to balance out my harsh tap water.
Another was to have the water in a container to chill it, so it becomes the wort chiller, so to speak.
Finally, There isnt anything in it to infect the beer, so you dont have to preboil it.

Chillers arent free, but if you can shill your "top up" water so to speak, you achieve nearly the same effect with little cost. RO water near me is .70 cents a gallon from the grocery stores. There isnt anything in it to infect the beer, so you dont have to preboil it.

Well, isn't spring water along the same lines sanitization-wise, but including the minerals, etc?
 
Well, isn't spring water along the same lines sanitization-wise, but including the minerals, etc?

Yes to a degree. Obviously each spring has different water. Spring water in the stores, generally goes through some sort of treatment before bottling. Usually what they do is on the label. Ones near me go through UV treatment as I recall.
 
Another Keg of this gone, killed last nite. :drunk:

Friends had the first patio fire of the season up here, about 15 people.

8 people were adventurous to try it for the first time. Lots of trips back to the keg. :tank:
 
I plan on brewing this in a couple days, but I have one problem. My LHBS doesn't have wheat LME. I assume I can just substitute an adjusted amount of DME for that, correct?
 
I plan on brewing this in a couple days, but I have one problem. My LHBS doesn't have wheat LME. I assume I can just substitute an adjusted amount of DME for that, correct?

Yes and no. Wheat malt tastes different than barley malt, and it gives better mouthfeel and head retention. That being said, you can substitute barley malt, but the flavor won't be quite the same. It will still probably be pretty good. :)
 
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