Dual 2000W 120V Recirculating eBIAB Build

[MDRex]

That's quick enough for me. Thanks for the info.

 

[tyfernandez]

Russki,

I was getting ready to add a sight glass to my rig, but can't decide if the eye bolt that holds the top of it will get in the way of the basket. It looks as if you were able to get the basket in past the bolt on some of your pictures. Does it get in the way at all? There really doesn't seem to be too much wiggle room on my 44qt pot. Wondering if it's different with your larger pot.

 

[russki]

Russki,

I was getting ready to add a sight glass to my rig, but can't decide if the eye bolt that holds the top of it will get in the way of the basket. It looks as if you were able to get the basket in past the bolt on some of your pictures. Does it get in the way at all? There really doesn't seem to be too much wiggle room on my 44qt pot. Wondering if it's different with your larger pot.

There's definitely wiggle room on the 62 qt pot - I have no issues with the basket catching on the bolt. If you are concerned that there's not as much room on the 44qt one, you can always solder the nut onto the outside of the kettle.

 

[HopRodGR]

This thread is exactly what I needed to convince myself I am going electric. I wanted a solution that was compact, could be used in a kitchen, and run off the current circuitry in my house (i.e. 120v/20A circuits). Russki, your build is darn near exactly what I think I'm going to put together, with the exception of using a converted sanke keg and maybe a little bigger project box . I've just started doing my serious reading about how to put one of these builds together, and I have to say I'm amazed at the generosity of P-J in all the time he's put in drawing up schematics for everyone. Really incredible stuff.

Anyway, after wiring my basement this winter I am confident enough to tackle this project. Despite never really reading wiring schematics before, P-J's drawings are very easy to follow.

Russki, very simple question for you. I see you used a 6 pole terminal block. I assume you ran the hot, neutral and ground through it? Obviously it's working for you, but with all the extra wiring since this is a dual circuit build, I'm thinking I might be more comfortable using separate blocks with jumpers just to make sure my wiring is clean. The 120V Plug #1 in particular jumps off several times after coming into the box.

Really looking forward to starting this project. It maybe a little while, but it's fun to think about already!

 

[russki]

Russki, very simple question for you. I see you used a 6 pole terminal block. I assume you ran the hot, neutral and ground through it? Obviously it's working for you, but with all the extra wiring since this is a dual circuit build, I'm thinking I might be more comfortable using separate blocks with jumpers just to make sure my wiring is clean. The 120V Plug #1 in particular jumps off several times after coming into the box.

I ran hot and neutral through it for both lines. All ground leads are attached to one of the bolts I used to mount the terminal block. With a larger enclosure, you could certainly use separate blocks. This was a very tight squeeze into the small Auber box.

I love this little rig; brewed a 10 gallon batch yesterday - it was easily boiling 13 gallons of wort at 75%.

Good luck with your build!

 

[HopRodGR]

I ran hot and neutral through it for both lines. All ground leads are attached to one of the bolts I used to mount the terminal block. With a larger enclosure, you could certainly use separate blocks. This was a very tight squeeze into the small Auber box.

I love this little rig; brewed a 10 gallon batch yesterday - it was easily boiling 13 gallons of wort at 75%.

Good luck with your build!

Since you used a standard two plug receptacle for plugging the elements into, I assume you broke the hot bridge, then ran two hot wires in (one from each contactor), two neutrals (again, one from each contactor) and only one ground. Would that be correct?

 

[Abhitchc]

Ok, so here's the parts list for my build for anyone wanting to duplicate this system. Quantities noted where applicable.

Amazon.com

62 qt Bayou Classic SS Kettle with basket (actually bought used, but Amazon has the best deal on them)
US Wire 65050 12/3 50-Foot SJTW Orange Heavy Duty Extension Cord
AC Infinity LS9225A-X Standard Cooling Fan

eBrewSupply.com

220v 40a, 110v Coil, Contactor qty:2
40a Solid State Relay SSR qty:2
2-Way, 1 NO Contact, Switch
Mushroom Button, NO Contact
Flashing Buzzer
Add on NO Contact

BargainFittings.com

NEW - KEG Weldless Bulkhead Kit
- Inside the vessel fitting STREET 90 - 1/2" NPT
- Valve 2 - piece SS ball valve
- Hose Barb (valve outlet) <NONE>
1/2" SS Camlock F style fitting Quick Disconnect qty: 3
1/2" SS Camlock D style fitting Quick Disconnect qty: 1
1/2" SS Camlock B Style Quick Disconnect qty: 4
1/2" SS Camlock A Style Quick Disconnect qty: 2
1/2" NPT SS 2 piece ball valve qty: 1
1" Stainless Locknut and o-ring kit qty: 2
Weldless thermometer sight gauge kit
- Vessel: Keg or kettle
Silicone Tubing 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD qty: 12 ft
1/2" SS Camlock Dust Cap Style Quick Disconnect qty: 1

BrewHardware.com

Mash recirculation tube w/camlock
Sight glass calibration decals

eBay.com

2 x Panel Mount Fuse Holder For M205 5x20mm Fuses
10PCS Metal Film Resistor 1 Watt 1W 1K ohm
10 Pcs 5x20mm Quick Fast Blow Type 1A 1 AMP 110-240V Glass Tube Fuses
Aluminum Large Rectangle Heatsink

Auberins.com

1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SSR control output)
Item #: SYL-2352

Illuminated Maintained Pushbutton Switch, 2 NO, 22mm. 120/240V qty: 2
Item #: SW1 LED Color Option - Green

Illuminated Maintained Pushbutton Switch, 2 NO, 22mm. 120/240V qty: 2
Item #: SW1 LED Color Option - Blue

Liquid tight RTD sensor, 4 in, 1/2 NPT Thread
Item #: PT100-L100NPT Cable Option - Deluxe Cable

Box for 1/16 DIN controller
Item #: Pbox16

McMaster.com

Multipurpose Silicone Adhesive/Sealant 2.8 oz Tube, Translucent
18-8 Stainless Steel Wide-Rim Shim .075" Thick, 1-1/2" ID, 2-1/4" OD qty: 2

BostonHeatingSupply.com

Rheem SP10868GL 120V 2000W Stainless Steel Element qty: 2

GreatBreweh.com

Brewery Pump

DudaDiesel.com

B3-12A 20 Plate Beer Wort Garden Hose Chiller

Menards

4" x 2" Handy Box Extension qty: 3
4" x 2" Handy Box Cover, Blank qty: 4
3/8" Romex Connectorm 10 pcs
1" Romex Connector
Plug Straight Blade 20A, 125V qty: 4
20A Commercial Grade Outlet
Terminal Block, 6 Pole
1/2" copper tubing
90 degree 1/2" copper elbows qty: 4
Plumbers Silicone Tape
5/8" x 25' Medium Duty Garden Hose

Harbor Freight

520 Piece Terminal Set
127 Piece Heat Shrink Tubing Set
100 Piece Zip Ties

Wow. this is great! thanks!

 

[russki]

Since you used a standard two plug receptacle for plugging the elements into, I assume you broke the hot bridge, then ran two hot wires in (one from each contactor), two neutrals (again, one from each contactor) and only one ground. Would that be correct?

I broke both hot and neutral jumpers off to have two completely separate circuits. The ground wire is common.

 

[JEnglish]

I recently decided that I am going to upgrade to electric and want to use the same wiring diagram you used. The one thing I am unsure about is the guage of wire that is needed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[russki]

I recently decided that I am going to upgrade to electric and want to use the same wiring diagram you used. The one thing I am unsure about is the guage of wire that is needed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

For the element circuits you need 12 gauge wire; for the rest, you can use thinner wire (I used 18 gauge), since there's really not much amperage there.

 

[JEnglish]

Would it matter if I used the same guage throughout the whole thing? or do I need to use the two different sizes?

 

[russki]

Would it matter if I used the same guage throughout the whole thing? or do I need to use the two different sizes?

You could use 12 gauge throughout the controller, it's just more difficult to work with, and you may have trouble finding 12-gauge terminals that fit the small contacts of the PID controller and the push buttons. And you would definitely need a larger enclosure - there's no way you can fit all that thick wire in the Auber box.

 

[chrish15]

I've been following this thread, and plan on using the design as it's the best I've found so far (for what I plan on doing).

1. Can't find anything on the "add on NO" contact as far as where it's used in the system.
2. Do you have a master on/off switch or does it just turn on when plugged in?
2a. If not, why?

Great job btw.

 

[P-J]

I've been following this thread, and plan on using the design as it's the best I've found so far (for what I plan on doing).

1. Can't find anything on the "add on NO" contact as far as where it's used in the system.
2. Do you have a master on/off switch or does it just turn on when plugged in?
2a. If not, why?

Great job btw.

He is using this E-Stop switch Mushroom Button, N/O Contact.

The circuit requires a 2nd N/O contact to function with the two 120V power inputs. The 2nd N/O contact is this one: Add on N/O Contact

No master switch as each device is independently controlled. Also, if used, a larger project box would probably be needed.

I hope this helps.

P-J

 

[owentp]

Do you have a wiring diagram instructions? Is this 2 120 v elements ran by rhis controller?

 

[russki]

Do you have a wiring diagram instructions? Is this 2 120 v elements ran by rhis controller?

The diagram is in the first post of the thread - there are no instructions, you just have to follow the diagram, it's pretty self-explanatory. This controller runs two 120v elements using two 20A 120v circuits.

 

[hawgwild81]

I've been following this thread since the beginning and have been piecing it together as I could afford parts. Unfortunately, at this time I need money more than a new brewing system. So if your wanting to build this system for yourself, I have half the parts ready to sell here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f16/half-biab-system-438170/#post5598718 Sorry to hijack the thread. Thanks to the OP for great system. I hope to build it for myself someday. Cheers!

 

[P-J]

I've been following this thread since the beginning and have been piecing it together as I could afford parts. Unfortunately, at this time I need money more than a new brewing system. So if your wanting to build this system for yourself, I have half the parts ready to sell. Sorry to hijack the thread. Thanks to the OP for great system. I hope to build it for myself someday. Cheers!

So sorry. (political, economic statement - sorry) I understand and share your opinions. I really hope things get better for you.

P-J

Edit: This tares up my heart. I'm 73... What has been happening lately with everything in our country just tares and tears me up.

 

[moclamd]

Would this same setup work if I were to use a single GFCI outlet on the box(Can you even break the jumpers on a GFCI outlet?) and just plugged into two standard 20A outlets on separate circuits?

 

[russki]

Would this same setup work if I were to use a single GFCI outlet on the box(Can you even break the jumpers on a GFCI outlet?) and just plugged into two standard 20A outlets on separate circuits?

You cannot do this with a single GFCI outlet. If you want to use non-GFCI outlets, you may want to use in-line GFCI cords, for example these Tasco 20 amp ones.

 

[moclamd]

Thanks for the response. The outlets in my planned brewery area aren't wired yet so I will just get two GFCI outlets for them. I was just hoping to cut costs a bit, but proper GFCI protection is worth a little extra money.

 

[globe]

Sorry if this has been covered...but what is it like brewing with this indoors? Do you have problems with condensation? Do you need a lot of air flow?

 

[russki]

Sorry if this has been covered...but what is it like brewing with this indoors? Do you have problems with condensation? Do you need a lot of air flow?

I brew in the kitchen without any extra ventilation; never had any problems with condensation. But then I do have 9ft ceilings, and air in my house is pretty dry (under 30% humidity), so it just acts as a giant humidifier. It's not much different than stovetop brewing in terms of humidity.

 

[Weezy]

Condensation? As long as you're not brewing in a especially tiny room, it's fine. The people who really run into problems are running much bigger rigs and bigger batches, with a lot more boil off and evaporation.

 

[raney]

sorry to revive an old thread...but I am having problems understanding exactly why the contactors are necessary. Why couldn't I just place the power switches/buttons between the PID and each SSR and leave out contactors? or even between the SSR and element? Are they really needed? i have been reading around quite a bit and just don't seem to understand. Thanks for the help

 

[P-J]

sorry to revive an old thread...but I am having problems understanding exactly why the contactors are necessary. Why couldn't I just place the power switches/buttons between the PID and each SSR and leave out contactors? or even between the SSR and element? Are they really needed? i have been reading around quite a bit and just don't seem to understand. Thanks for the help

Which diagram are you referencing? A link would help a lot.

P-J

 

[raney]

hey thanks for the quick reply! I am planning on using the 2-element 120V diagram from the first post in this thread

 

[P-J]

sorry to revive an old thread...but I am having problems understanding exactly why the contactors are necessary. Why couldn't I just place the power switches/buttons between the PID and each SSR and leave out contactors? or even between the SSR and element? Are they really needed? i have been reading around quite a bit and just don't seem to understand. Thanks for the help

Which diagram are you referencing? A link would help a lot.

P-J

hey thanks for the quick reply! I am planning on using the 2-element 120V diagram from the first post in this thread

Ok, got it. The contactors are in place due to the fact that the switches involved cannot handle the current draw to drectly energize the heating elements. The elements draw 17A and the switches wanted for the original design cannot handle that current draw.

It is all about design choices for the person wanting to do an E-Brew set up. Generally they spell it out and I take the time to draw a diagram to help them.

P-J

 

[raney]

Okay thanks P-J! That makes sense now. Thanks for everything - I've learned a ton from all of your diagrams (and I'm sure everyone else has too!)

 

[HopRodGR]

P-J,

I'm still looking to start my dual 2000w control panel, hopefully soon.

I'll be honest, I'm not hooked on any particular design, I just want functionality. That being said, if the contactors are there only because of the choice of the pushbutton switches, do you have a drawing that uses switches that can handle the load going to the elements, which if I'm understanding correctly, eliminates the need for the contactors? Seems as though that would free up space in the control box and simplify the wiring.

Ok, got it. The contactors are in place due to the fact that the switches involved cannot handle the current draw to drectly energize the heating elements. The elements draw 17A and the switches wanted for the original design cannot handle that current draw. It is all about design choices for the person wanting to do an E-Brew set up. Generally they spell it out and I take the time to draw a diagram to help them. P-J