Doubling Down: SS Brewtech Conical + FTSS + Glycol Power Pack

[marjen]

That’s cool that it went so well congratulations! I don’t understand the purpose of the quick carb pump if you are using co2 to push to the liquid out of the keg? Would you mind discussing this in more detail?

I used the pump because I set the Unitank and the keg to the same PSI. Finding the right PSI is not always easy. To much can cause foaming. Not enough and its a frustrating process to move the beer along, constantly adjusting on one end or the other. With the pump it went at a steady pace the entire time with no interaction on my part other than pulling the relief valve on the keg for a second to start the process, then the pump took over.

 

[augiedoggy]

Here is an interesting video i just watched showing how a brewery transfers beer from unitank to bright tank. One thing they do is actually equalize the pressure by connecting a line from blow off valve to the receiving tank. For our purposes this could be blow off valve to CO2 in on the keg. They then equalize the pressure between both tanks first. So would need keg at same level or a tick higher than tank to prevent beer from back pressuring into the keg. Next they use an inline pump (like chugger, riptide) to control the flow of beer from the unitank to the bright or in our case keg. I am wondering if this would work well for home use? This might help with some of the issues people are having. I might actually try this. Might make it easier than trying to use a spunding valve and manually adjust the pressure keeping just the right pressure between the two tanks.

Thinking this through even more, by not using a spunding valve, would also not send any aroma from the hops into the air, could lead to better finished product.

I am a bit confused? Isnt the point of a unitank is to be the fermenter and brite tank in one is it not? thats the point behind the name as well meaning "one tank" at least thats what Ive always been told.. Otherwise why not just use a conical fermenter and brite like the traditional breweries used before replacing both with unitanks to avoid all this hassle? we looked into unitanks at the nano and it was for this reason... if it werent for the cost we would have done it vs conicals and brite tanks.

 

[Morrey]

I am a bit confused? Isnt the point of a unitank is to be the fermenter and brite tank in one is it not? thats the point behind the name as well meaning "one tank" at least thats what Ive always been told.. Otherwise why not just use a conical fermenter and brite like the traditional breweries used before replacing both with unitanks to avoid all this hassle? we looked into unitanks at the nano and it was for this reason... if it werent for the cost we would have done it vs conicals and brite tanks.

I also have thought all along the "selling point" of the uni-tank is an all-in-one system. I am producing "finished" beer in my uni-tank eliminating the need for brite tanks and the like. I transfer carbed beer into kegs for serving, but if I chose, I could also condition and serve directly from the uni tank. All in one concept.

 

[augiedoggy]

I also have thought all along the "selling point" of the uni-tank is an all-in-one system. I am producing "finished" beer in my uni-tank eliminating the need for brite tanks and the like. I transfer carbed beer into kegs for serving, but if I chose, I could also condition and serve directly from the uni tank. All in one concept.

Exactly... good to know im not losing my mind, We recently learned the Feds have changed a bunch of rules in January... anyone not serving beer from kegs located in a cooler directly under the tap now needs to apply for a brewpub license.. this would include anyone thinking of serving from either tanks like this, brite tanks or even kegs directly under the bar in a walkin cooler as we are... all this trivial stuff you wouldnt think matters... Does.

 

[Morrey]

Exactly... good to know im not losing my mind,

...nor mine! LOL

 

[marjen]

"I also have thought all along the "selling point" of the uni-tank is an all-in-one system. I am producing "finished" beer in my uni-tank eliminating the need for brite tanks and the like. I transfer carbed beer into kegs for serving, but if I chose, I could also condition and serve directly from the uni tank. All in one concept."
"I also have thought all along the "selling point" of the uni-tank is an all-in-one system. I am producing "finished" beer in my uni-tank eliminating the need for brite tanks and the like. I transfer carbed beer into kegs for serving, but if I chose, I could also condition and serve directly from the uni tank. All in one concept."

The point of the video was to show a method to transfer beer between 2 pressurized vessels. The video used a unitank and bright. For the purpose of those of us with a unitank at home it can be a unitank and keg. Same process, set both to equal pressure and use a pump to move the beer, vs trying to sync up the pressure difference perfectly.

I did carb and crash my beer in the unitank. My issues in the past were the transfer process. Last time I tried it there was too much pressure difference between tank and keg and I ended up with tons of foam and flat beer the entire keg, it was not good. Also had slow transfers in the past, stalled transfers, lost hop aroma due to have to bleed it out all through sprunding valve. I did not have to do that with this method.

Both unitank and keg had same pressure so it was just a slow flow of finished beer to the keg and the final product came out great. Just showing there is another way to do it for anyone having issues.

 

[helibrewer]

I am a bit confused? Isnt the point of a unitank is to be the fermenter and brite tank in one is it not? thats the point behind the name as well meaning "one tank" at least thats what Ive always been told.. Otherwise why not just use a conical fermenter and brite like the traditional breweries used before replacing both with unitanks to avoid all this hassle? we looked into unitanks at the nano and it was for this reason... if it werent for the cost we would have done it vs conicals and brite tanks.

At home, I use a brite because it is more compact and fits in my chest freezer, eliminating the need to add glycol cooling to the brite and eliminating the need to cool serving lines from the unitank. At our brewery we use only unitanks and serve from kegs in a central cool box

 

[Morrey]

I am currently using 3/8" silicone tubing with pipe insulation covering the tubing transferring coolant from glycol chiller to tank. I think I have seen someone on HBT mention some sort of insulated line that doesn't require that bulky foam covering. If I remember correctly the line is blue. Any information including links or sources is appreciated.

I'm also going to post this request in a new thread, and wanted to mention this as not to offend anyone with a double post.

 

[Carlscan26]

For those doing closed transfers to kegs, what size tubing are you using between the racking valve and the keg? I assume you can use larger than standard (3/16") beer line tubing?

5/8” fitting to 1/2”ID hose to 1/2” OD T fitting to 3/8” ID hose to FMT adapters with 1/2” barbs to the beer QD.

 

[czmkid]

@Morrey it looks like your equipment is ‘outside’ as well. How do you deal with the condensation when cold crashing and conditioning before you transfer to the final serving vessel?

 

[Morrey]

@Morrey it looks like your equipment is ‘outside’ as well. How do you deal with the condensation when cold crashing and conditioning before you transfer to the final serving vessel?

Yes, my brew cave is a framed building, but is uninsulated and non-temperature controlled. I plan to insulate the building and I already have a window unit in place.

However, for now I have humidity galore to deal with. I am in SC aka known as the "cut the air with a knife" state. The tanks when cold usually have a pool of water sitting under them so I have trays under them to catch condensation. I have pooling under the chiller and try to keep that as dry as possible so rusting wont begin. I better get started on that brew cave insulation project before the humidity starts for the year.

 

[marjen]

So I figured I would post a couple pics on what I use to dump trub in case anyone is having issues and making a huge mess I remember the first time I tried this process. I think there are still hops stuck to the wall or ceiling somewhere. So I finally worked out a nice clean and easy way to do this. I add a cam lock TC port to the bottom dump butterfly valve and then connect a cam lock connector with a hose and route the house into a small bucket inside of a big bucket. This allows for a nicely controlled mess free process. Obviously other connector types can be used. Also I do have the leg extensions which makes this 10x easier as it provides some clearance under the tank so the hose can flow nicely.

 

[czmkid]

Nice dump system there! I’ve gotten pretty good with the dumps and noticed with the sight glass and 1” tc barb one can control the flow nicely as well. Between this and just feathering open the blowoff valve (most times I just keep it closed) I can just use a big gulp cup. I have to have more than one with really hoppy beers like the last one which had 10 oz of hops just thrown into the tank.

Maybe I will give this a whirl as I have the 1” silicone tubing. Thanks again for the ideas.

On another note I want to get the leg extensions but with only three i feel like the unitank is really top/front heavy especially when clean and empty (which doesn’t happen much with all of the brewing I have been doing). I am really careful wheeling it around full and even more so when it is empty. All that hardware on the front side make it wanna tip forward. I kinda wish the 7 had four legs like the 14g.

 

[emr25]

I am working on a concept for CO2 flushed dry hop additions for my 7 Gal BME Chronical. Parts list and process are below.

Parts Required
1.5” to 3” Cap Style TC Reducer
1.5” TC Butterfly Valve
1.5” to 3” Bowl Style TC Reducer
3” TC Blowoff Cane for BME Chronical
Clamps / Gaskets

Setup
1) Attach Cap Style Reducer to BME Lid.
2) Attach Butterfly Valve to Cap Reducer.
3) Attach Bowl Style Reducer to Butterfly Valve.
4) Attach Blowoff Cane to Bowl Reducer.

Process
1) Butterfly Valve remains open during fermentation to allow blowoff as usual.
2) When ready to add dry hops, close Butterfly Valve (sealing fermenter temporarily).
3) Remove 3” TC Blowoff Cane.
4) Add dry hops to Bowl Reducer.
5) Re-install 3” TC Blowoff Cane.
6) Push 1-2 psi CO2 up through Blowoff Cane and flush dry hops using integrated PRV. Repeat 2-3 times.
7) Continue pushing 1-2 psi CO2 up through Blowoff Cane and open Butterfly Valve to force CO2 flushed hops into fermenter.
8) Continue fermentation as usual with Butterfly Valve remaining open.

Thoughts? Suggestions? I’ve priced the parts out at around $150 (I already have the 3” TC Blowoff Cane and did not include that in my total).

Made this idea into a reality, brewing on Saturday with a double dry hopped DIPA planned to test out the process.

 

[helibrewer]

I am currently using 3/8" silicone tubing with pipe insulation covering the tubing transferring coolant from glycol chiller to tank. I think I have seen someone on HBT mention some sort of insulated line that doesn't require that bulky foam covering. If I remember correctly the line is blue. Any information including links or sources is appreciated.

I'm also going to post this request in a new thread, and wanted to mention this as not to offend anyone with a double post.

Here's the stuff, I also use pip insulation with it as it does exhibit some condensation. https://www.siliconehose.com/silicone-heater-hose-0-380-id-0-690-od-0-160-wall/

 

[Morrey]

I'm currently using a sturdy walled 3/8" silicone tubing (high temp) wrapped in pipe insulation...plus couplers similar to yours. I hoped to find better insulated tubing so I could avoid the bulky foam insulation outer layer, but looks like I may be chasing my tail on that one.

 

[Morrey]

Couple of folks have mentioned looking for ways to suspend a hop bag or strainer in their tank so they could retrieve it. Dental floss is an old standby but not sure about leaks with the floss under a silicone TC gasket. I called Arbor Fabrication asking for them to tack weld a small "L" bracket on the underside of a blank TC cap. From there, I can use a small S hook and a chain to let the 2.75" mesh hop strainer down into the 3" TC PRV port.

I push CO2 thru the BO tube when I open the top TC cap. I can feel the CO2 pressure pushing the cap upwards so I'm hoping for minimal O2 entry into the tank....same when I am retrieving the hop strainer.

Strainer wants to float, so I weigh it down with a couple of sanitized SS nuts. I flush O2 from the hop strainer filled with hops by placing in a ziplok baggie and purging with CO2. Got to be quick and this is not ideal, but the best I can think of w/o building some sort of elaborate ($$$) airlock chamber.

Anyway, this system works well for me...just sharing.

 

[hellesyeah]

Thanks @Morrey. Do you mind sending the contact info for the guy who did the TC end cap for you? You are showing a mesh tube....does he sell those too? I bought one from eBay (China) and boy was that sucker a piece of cheap junk.

 

[Morrey]

I sent you a PM with Chad's number at Arbor Fabrication. Yes he made the hop strainer tube I'm showing, and although not "inexpensive"....they are of the high quality I have found with Arbor Fab.

 

[helibrewer]

Arbor Fab rocks, quality stuff.

 

[prosperbrews]

Hello,

Just finished reading through the wealth of information on this thread. It seems like the penguin chillers have quite a few fans. I'm interested to know if anyone has a qualified opinion on how the penguin compares to the SS brew tech? I was torn and ultimately ended up just pulling the trigger on the SS brewtech glycol chiller and a 7 gallon uni. For me, the SS brewtech chiller looks better and more 'in place' in my brewery. I think customer service will be the deciding factor and SS has already proven themselves on that front by voluntarily emailing me after my order and offering to give me the mash manifold I also purchased free of charge as a thanks - cant beat that!

I do have a few questions hoping some of the more experienced folks could help with and some general comments

* I purchased a 1.5 TC to 1/2 male npt along with a 1.5 tc to 1/2 barb to complete the blowoff assembly. Seems logical
* I also purchased the 1.5 TC to 1/4 MFL to do pressurized transfer through the blowoff cane.
* How does the gas connect to the carb stone for carbing? Do I need another fitting, or will everything be included in the box?
* For the liquid side of the pressurized transfer, I was planning to use a 1.5 TC to 1/2 barb to a ball lock liquid connector with a 1/4 MFL to 1/2 barb fitting from brew hardware. I assume this will work? Do I need anything else to complete the pressurized transfer
* I also picked up the 3/8 line quick disconnects for the glycol chiller based on a previous recommendation, thanks for that.

Is there anything else I'm missing? I saw the ball jar connector that looks pretty neat, but would require purchase of leg extensions as well. Wondering if its worth it? - is it just for yeast collection or can it also be used for more controlled trub dumps?

* I forgot to order the casters, are these a must have?

Are there any other must haves I may be missing to make this solution best in class? Apologies if any of this has been answered previously, alot of this stuff is new to me.


Thanks!

 

[Morrey]

Hello,

Just finished reading through the wealth of information on this thread. It seems like the penguin chillers have quite a few fans. I'm interested to know if anyone has a qualified opinion on how the penguin compares to the SS brew tech? I was torn and ultimately ended up just pulling the trigger on the SS brewtech glycol chiller and a 7 gallon uni. For me, the SS brewtech chiller looks better and more 'in place' in my brewery. I think customer service will be the deciding factor and SS has already proven themselves on that front by voluntarily emailing me after my order and offering to give me the mash manifold I also purchased free of charge as a thanks - cant beat that!

I do have a few questions hoping some of the more experienced folks could help with and some general comments

* I purchased a 1.5 TC to 1/2 male npt along with a 1.5 tc to 1/2 barb to complete the blowoff assembly. Seems logical
* I also purchased the 1.5 TC to 1/4 MFL to do pressurized transfer through the blowoff cane.
* How does the gas connect to the carb stone for carbing? Do I need another fitting, or will everything be included in the box?
* For the liquid side of the pressurized transfer, I was planning to use a 1.5 TC to 1/2 barb to a ball lock liquid connector with a 1/4 MFL to 1/2 barb fitting from brew hardware. I assume this will work? Do I need anything else to complete the pressurized transfer
* I also picked up the 3/8 line quick disconnects for the glycol chiller based on a previous recommendation, thanks for that.

Is there anything else I'm missing? I saw the ball jar connector that looks pretty neat, but would require purchase of leg extensions as well. Wondering if its worth it? - is it just for yeast collection or can it also be used for more controlled trub dumps?

* I forgot to order the casters, are these a must have?

Are there any other must haves I may be missing to make this solution best in class? Apologies if any of this has been answered previously, alot of this stuff is new to me.


Thanks!

Congrats on your big plunge! After a couple of brews, you'll have smoothed out the process and will have discovered some of the accessories you'll need...or simply want to have.

No one person can tell you here is a complete list of all the modifications you should buy or add to your system. One thing that turned the corner for me was adding the leg extensions. This lifted the tank and gave me some working room to get the valves in a position I could manage better. Plus it gives you clearance if you decide on the yeast harvester from NorCal.

I have casters on all 3 of mine, but frankly, they make the smaller 7G tank a bit unstable. I planned to roll mine around, but CIP made that somewhat unnecessary. I would stick with the supplied solid rubber feet if doing it again, but again, this is simply a personal preference.

Enjoy!

 

[dunnry]

Congrats on your big plunge! After a couple of brews, you'll have smoothed out the process and will have discovered some of the accessories you'll need...or simply want to have.

No one person can tell you here is a complete list of all the modifications you should buy or add to your system. One thing that turned the corner for me was adding the leg extensions. This lifted the tank and gave me some working room to get the valves in a position I could manage better. Plus it gives you clearance if you decide on the yeast harvester from NorCal.

I have casters on all 3 of mine, but frankly, they make the smaller 7G tank a bit unstable. I planned to roll mine around, but CIP made that somewhat unnecessary. I would stick with the supplied solid rubber feet if doing it again, but again, this is simply a personal preference.

Enjoy!

I agree. I would only use the casters on the larger 14gal + sizes. The 7 gal is really not that much bigger than a brew bucket, and there's no reason for wheels on that.

One tip that I have found very useful is to always buy your barbs 1/8" to 1/4" bigger than your hose. So, use a 5/8 barb for your 1/2" silicon hose. That way you don't have to use hose clamps. For CIP, I use 3/4" hose attached to a 1" barb and it can take that pressure without leaking or needing to attach a clamp. The 1" hose leaked without clamps. I know you already have a 1/2" barb (so do I), and that will work fine for blow-off, but it won't work well without clamps for CIP unfortunately.

* For the liquid side of the pressurized transfer, I was planning to use a 1.5 TC to 1/2 barb to a ball lock liquid connector with a 1/4 MFL to 1/2 barb fitting from brew hardware. I assume this will work? Do I need anything else to complete the pressurized transfer

Do you have a link to this, I am having trouble picturing this connection. I use this part (https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/accessories/products/1-5-tc-to-1-4-mlf-threaded-flare), however, it is a bit slower than other connections during filling perhaps. It takes 10+ mins to fill.

Since you got the unitank, you have the vast majority of the connections and flair you will want. If you want to do CIP, you will need the CIP ball and some barbs to make the return loop (or QD technology if you want to connect to your Chugger/March and use same QD tech and hoses). CIP will take some practice to get right and know you are clean (e.g. removing fittings and racking arms), but otherwise you are pretty much set.

 

[Morrey]

Flavoring addition advice requested for use in O2 free transfers with our Uni tank:

I am planning a Gose beer to be infused with a blood orange flavoring at kegging. Problem is I am filling kegs with sani-clean and pushing out with CO2 to eliminate O2 exposure. Don't want to open the fermenter tank lid or keg lid after purging so that's out. What if I take the sight glass off the racking arm, purge some CO2 into the glass, then put extract in the sight glass before sealing back up? Any other thoughts?

 

[dunnry]

Flavoring addition advice requested for use in O2 free transfers with our Uni tank:

I am planning a Gose beer to be infused with a blood orange flavoring at kegging. Problem is I am filling kegs with sani-clean and pushing out with CO2 to eliminate O2 exposure. Don't want to open the fermenter tank lid or keg lid after purging so that's out. What if I take the sight glass off the racking arm, purge some CO2 into the glass, then put extract in the sight glass before sealing back up? Any other thoughts?

Should probably put this in another thread so people can find it. You can definitely do what you are describing, I know of two other ways as well. One way is the same process as what you do for a kind of hop cannon. The other is what I have used in a commercial brewery and requires a couple valves and the principle that flowing liquid will cause suction. The latter method is how you dose a keg with a flavoring without doing the entire bright tank.

Technique #1: Use the body of a filter (3 or 4") and attach a reducer on the top to get to whatever size you need to hook your CO2 up to it. Attach another butterfly between it and the conical. Simply fill the body up with pellets (if hopping) or juice (if dosing), attach your CO2 and purge a few times. Open butterfly when you are ready.

Technique #2: Fill bucket or container with liquid (used for cleaners and flavoring in kegs). From hose that is connected to conical, run it first into a T, and attach two butterfly valves, one on each end of the output to the T. One of the valves goes to keg (straight line thru T usually) and the other attaches to a smaller diameter hose you drop into bucket. Slowly open the side valve into bucket, allow hose to fill and every so slightly fill bucket. Now, slam other valve to keg wide open and suction the other direction will start. It's best if the hose to keg is larger diameter than hose into bucket. It will suck all the solution out of bucket and inject it inline into keg. That's how kegs are dosed.

 

[Morrey]

Two very keen ideas, @dunnry. The "T" method has me thinking....since I am only injecting 2 ounces, I could figure a way to add in the flavoring with some sort of syringe and an airtight way to inject it. Your ideas are good, not only for this application, but for other processes. Thanks!

 

[Sbe2]

@Morrey some type of Venturi vacuum would work. Same sort of idea as @dunnry said

 

[Morrey]

I was trying to think of the term you used...Venturi effect. Creates a vacuum or suction as a result of restricted flow from another chamber. I am developing ideas....

 

[Sbe2]

1.5” to .5”, .5” x .25”(suction)T, back to 1.5” and proceed with your normal racking procedure.

 

[Morrey]

1.5” to .5”, .5” x .25”(suction)T, back to 1.5” and proceed with your normal racking procedure.

Good info! Plan in place!

 

[helibrewer]

Hello,

Just finished reading through the wealth of information on this thread. It seems like the penguin chillers have quite a few fans. I'm interested to know if anyone has a qualified opinion on how the penguin compares to the SS brew tech? I was torn and ultimately ended up just pulling the trigger on the SS brewtech glycol chiller and a 7 gallon uni. For me, the SS brewtech chiller looks better and more 'in place' in my brewery. I think customer service will be the deciding factor and SS has already proven themselves on that front by voluntarily emailing me after my order and offering to give me the mash manifold I also purchased free of charge as a thanks - cant beat that!

I do have a few questions hoping some of the more experienced folks could help with and some general comments

* I purchased a 1.5 TC to 1/2 male npt along with a 1.5 tc to 1/2 barb to complete the blowoff assembly. Seems logical
* I also purchased the 1.5 TC to 1/4 MFL to do pressurized transfer through the blowoff cane.
* How does the gas connect to the carb stone for carbing? Do I need another fitting, or will everything be included in the box?
* For the liquid side of the pressurized transfer, I was planning to use a 1.5 TC to 1/2 barb to a ball lock liquid connector with a 1/4 MFL to 1/2 barb fitting from brew hardware. I assume this will work? Do I need anything else to complete the pressurized transfer
* I also picked up the 3/8 line quick disconnects for the glycol chiller based on a previous recommendation, thanks for that.

Is there anything else I'm missing? I saw the ball jar connector that looks pretty neat, but would require purchase of leg extensions as well. Wondering if its worth it? - is it just for yeast collection or can it also be used for more controlled trub dumps?

* I forgot to order the casters, are these a must have?

Are there any other must haves I may be missing to make this solution best in class? Apologies if any of this has been answered previously, alot of this stuff is new to me.


Thanks!

The casters are standard 3/8" x 1.5", you can find them anywhere if you want to add them later.

 

[marjen]

The casters are standard 3/8" x 1.5", you can find them anywhere if you want to add them later.

And for cheaper. I got mine from amazon for like $25.

 

[dunnry]

Good info! Plan in place!

Start another thread when you have it and detail the build. I have only done this with a lot more than 2oz and only with half barrel kegs.

 

[dunnry]

5/8” fitting to 1/2”ID hose to 1/2” OD T fitting to 3/8” ID hose to FMT adapters with 3/8” barns to the beer QD.

View attachment 561902

Can you post a link to the connection(s) you are using from 1/2" hose to the ball lock liquid post?

 

[Sbe2]

Good info! Plan in place!

I would do a dry run before doing it with your beer, I am by no means a physicist. Hopefully u can get enough velocity during racking to create the vacuum. Maybe gravity feed with a needle valve with the T in the up position. I would hate for you to lose any of your beer on my theory.

 

[Morrey]

I would do a dry run before doing it with your beer, I am by no means a physicist. Hopefully u can get enough velocity during racking to create the vacuum. Maybe gravity feed with a needle valve with the T in the up position. I would hate for you to lose any of your beer on my theory.

I will run tests for sure. Anytime I bring something new and untested online, I usually do a wet run with water to test the process. I'll do something similar with the venturi. Since I only need to draw 2 ounces, I should be able to design something easily.

 

[Carlscan26]

Can you post a link to the connection(s) you are using from 1/2" hose to the ball lock liquid post?

I originally posted that these were 3/8” barbs - they’re actually 1/2”. I’ve fixed the original post.

I used these: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fflbarb12.htm

Bobby also sells a 3/8” barb version.

Also it’s 3/8” hose onto these as I originally planned to use 1/2” hose all the way through but decided it would be better to drop in size after the “T”. It was a stretch but the good news is they handle pressure just fine without a clamp.

 

[prosperbrews]

I was a bit skeptical about ordering the SS unitank because I have read a few reports online about inferior welds and rough spots on the inside of the tank. Happy to report that my unitank showed up in damn near perfect condition. I was actually shocked to see the quality of the sanitary welds - near perfect. Highly recommend SS brewtech.

 

[Morrey]

Congrats on your beautiful new tank. Like you, I have never had a single Ss product fail my stringent quality inspections. I have 2 Ss brew buckets, 2 5G uni tanks and 1 14G uni tank...each product is flawless cosmetically and functionally.

I remember one of the Ss support reps saying a shipment had come in and something had failed their inspection. So instead of taking a gamble and risk sending out suspect products, they delayed shipment so each tank could be more thoroughly inspected. I believe they are quality control oriented and have earned my trust by selling only top line products.

 

[helibrewer]

I have a small blemish on my 14gal Uni....at 9 o'clock