Doubling Down: SS Brewtech Conical + FTSS + Glycol Power Pack
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I have never seen a commercial brewery use bagged hops for their fermenters. They just crash and dump them and use their racking arms. However, for some adjuncts like cacao nibs, cinnamon, or wood staves, I have seen them suspend them from the CIP ball in bags to remain in the center of mass.
philly224
Well-Known Member
Have you guys ever tried dry hopping without bags, and then dumping without cold crashing? I tried it for my last brew and it did not go too well. There was still a lot of hops in the conical after I dumped what I could. Would crashing help with that?
Looking for quick disconnects for the glycol chiller lines, any suggestions?
Also I ordered a PET jar and I am going to try that vs the glass. Dont want to worry about it possibly shattering.
Just did a run through with my CIP ball for the first time. Tank was clean but hasn't been used since November, so just did a recirculation with a hose off the bottom into my riptide pump. Worked well. Ordered a sump pump, should be here today, for the heavy clean up. Want to try and see if I can modify my kettle top for CIP, man that would make life easier.
Also I ordered a PET jar and I am going to try that vs the glass. Dont want to worry about it possibly shattering.
Just did a run through with my CIP ball for the first time. Tank was clean but hasn't been used since November, so just did a recirculation with a hose off the bottom into my riptide pump. Worked well. Ordered a sump pump, should be here today, for the heavy clean up. Want to try and see if I can modify my kettle top for CIP, man that would make life easier.
Here is an interesting video i just watched showing how a brewery transfers beer from unitank to bright tank. One thing they do is actually equalize the pressure by connecting a line from blow off valve to the receiving tank. For our purposes this could be blow off valve to CO2 in on the keg. They then equalize the pressure between both tanks first. So would need keg at same level or a tick higher than tank to prevent beer from back pressuring into the keg. Next they use an inline pump (like chugger, riptide) to control the flow of beer from the unitank to the bright or in our case keg. I am wondering if this would work well for home use? This might help with some of the issues people are having. I might actually try this. Might make it easier than trying to use a spunding valve and manually adjust the pressure keeping just the right pressure between the two tanks.
Thinking this through even more, by not using a spunding valve, would also not send any aroma from the hops into the air, could lead to better finished product.
Thinking this through even more, by not using a spunding valve, would also not send any aroma from the hops into the air, could lead to better finished product.
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emr25
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I have these for glycol line disconnects. You’d need (2) each of the male and female for a supply run and return run. A bit pricey, it was $44 with shipping for the (4) parts, but they are very high quality and don’t spill even a drop.
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-8162-ns4-valved-in-line-hose-barb-coupling-body-38-id-barb.aspx
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...ine-hose-barb-coupling-insert-38-id-barb.aspx
Thanks I just ordered a set of these.
I sent a support request to SSBT and they are sending out a free bracket to me, in fact it already shipped. I got my Unitank in Oct so all early adopters if you want one, they should be able to provide you with one. Great customer service.
I use these disconnects
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/i...dtWPNa_Nntnrimj56O5WMvpdB5FhlaZ4iHxoC-MLw_wcB
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=37301&catid=926
And this hose:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CR4OQI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
And some hose insulation and zip ties from Lowe’s.
On a transfer note. This weekend I will rack to the liquid out of a keg without the filter. I am guessing that I will have zero issues as when I took the filter out of the loop mid transfer last week it was smooth as a gravy sandwich. I went ahead and threw 2.5 oz of dryhops and 1oz of oak chips directly into the unitank on Monday after dumping the yeast. Cold crashing for two days at 35 seemed to get hops and remaining yeast out of suspension and down to the cone. I followed the advice of just cracking the ball valve on the blowoff arm when opening the dump butterfly. Huge difference in how fast thing happened. I felt like I was in total control of what came out and had minimal beer loss. Props for that tip in this thread!
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/i...dtWPNa_Nntnrimj56O5WMvpdB5FhlaZ4iHxoC-MLw_wcB
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=37301&catid=926
And this hose:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CR4OQI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
And some hose insulation and zip ties from Lowe’s.
On a transfer note. This weekend I will rack to the liquid out of a keg without the filter. I am guessing that I will have zero issues as when I took the filter out of the loop mid transfer last week it was smooth as a gravy sandwich. I went ahead and threw 2.5 oz of dryhops and 1oz of oak chips directly into the unitank on Monday after dumping the yeast. Cold crashing for two days at 35 seemed to get hops and remaining yeast out of suspension and down to the cone. I followed the advice of just cracking the ball valve on the blowoff arm when opening the dump butterfly. Huge difference in how fast thing happened. I felt like I was in total control of what came out and had minimal beer loss. Props for that tip in this thread!
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https://www.morebeer.com/products/beer-gas-quick-connect-inline-set-shutoff.html
Much cheaper. And does a great job also
emr25
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$30 plus shipping for (2) sets, so maybe a bit cheaper. I also wanted to go with 3/8” barbed fittings to minimize the restriction on flow rate.
But yes, there are countless options available to get the job done. I never realized the world of aquarium parts was so large!
Joe17
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So looks like he did something very similar by equalizing the pressure between the tank and keg. I am definitely going to try something like this with my next batch.
Also I heard from SS Brewtech on a couple things.
1. They indicated that carbing needed to be done at low temps (as close to 32 as possible) or else the CO2 would properly get into the beer. So does not sound like carbing at room temp is an option. Also need to apply pressure to the headspace prior to carbing through the stone.
2. Pressure during transfer has to be very close, 1-2 PSI max. Otherwise foaming will be an issue. So you either need to be really good at doing it manually or try some sort of closed loop transfer like indicated in the videos above.
Also I heard from SS Brewtech on a couple things.
1. They indicated that carbing needed to be done at low temps (as close to 32 as possible) or else the CO2 would properly get into the beer. So does not sound like carbing at room temp is an option. Also need to apply pressure to the headspace prior to carbing through the stone.
2. Pressure during transfer has to be very close, 1-2 PSI max. Otherwise foaming will be an issue. So you either need to be really good at doing it manually or try some sort of closed loop transfer like indicated in the videos above.
Did you have to request they send it to you? Or did they just send it to you since they knew you bought and didn't get one?
Morrey
Well-Known Member
Reference post #727, page 19 of this thread.
In this post you'll see where I contacted Ss about the bracket for my Uni tanks. I bought my 14G as a pre-order and it arrived in Oct. I bought my 7G as a pre-order and it arrived in Jan. Both tanks included the FTSs2 heat and cooling systems.
You'll see that Ss has no intention of sending out a "free" bracket with previous orders that included a FTSs or FTSs2 system. They are sending out the mounting bracket with tanks being sent now for those buying the FTSs option, but don't plan to send out the brackets for retro orders.....unfortunately. They will be making the bracket available once they have them in inventory as an accessory.
If anyone has been able to "negotiate" a situation in that Ss sends these at N/C, this sets a precedence that Ss will most certainly stand behind for us all. I hope to find out if this is in fact true.
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They sent me a free one this week. I sent a support request asking for one, and they shipped it out right away and free of charge, I got it yesterday.
Side note. Does anyone feel that the quality of the valves have decreased as they have grown.. I bought a BME in the early days now have just started playing around with my unitank and dunno if it's because they have not been broken in or just the tolerances have been laxed.. But the valves are definitely different
You can use the APC QD's which are cheaper: https://www.freshwatersystems.com/c-976-apc-series-valved-couplings.aspx
I also have the Brite tank (10 gal) and was disappointed that there wasn't a way to relieve pressure when there is product in the tank. I modified mine like this:
This is how I did it. My tank’s PRV is a TC fitting. I substituted with a TC tee and then attached the PRV. I put a TC ball lock gas post on the other side for serving.
Are those pool noodles? Or what kinda insulation are you running I like the aesthetics of it lol
Pipe insulation on my glycol lines.
Tozzi
Active Member
I shall, too, very soon try to transfer my first pressured batches from both Brite and Unitank into NC kegs.
Closed Loop transfer, using gravity, will probably, albeit slowly, work with my Brite (it sits on a scissor-style lifting table) but not with the Unitank, so I might have to use a spunding valve.
These usually suck, but I recently stumbled across this one, which to me looks promising:
https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=spundingvalve
Has anyone tried this? Hopefully it will allow for keg pressure to be set as close as possible (within 1-2 psi) to the Unitank's, in order to limit the foam building up inside the keg but still get some flow...
I reckon the small diameter of the dip tube will actually be an advantage, for once, and that patience is key (as always).
Chilling the beer to 32˚F (0˚C) is not an option (yet), unfortunately.
41˚F (5˚C) will have to suffice.
Closed Loop transfer, using gravity, will probably, albeit slowly, work with my Brite (it sits on a scissor-style lifting table) but not with the Unitank, so I might have to use a spunding valve.
These usually suck, but I recently stumbled across this one, which to me looks promising:
https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=spundingvalve
Has anyone tried this? Hopefully it will allow for keg pressure to be set as close as possible (within 1-2 psi) to the Unitank's, in order to limit the foam building up inside the keg but still get some flow...
I reckon the small diameter of the dip tube will actually be an advantage, for once, and that patience is key (as always).
Chilling the beer to 32˚F (0˚C) is not an option (yet), unfortunately.
41˚F (5˚C) will have to suffice.
Ah, pressurizing was not my problem, it's relieving the pressure that I couldn't do. The 10 gallon Brite Tanks does not have any capability to vent the head space other than the PRV. So if pressure builds beyond your desired pressure, there is no way to vent the tank other than just pouring beer. I added the T and valve so I could relieve head pressure from the tank if I need to...like to vent so I can add fining agent.
I didn't find it very precise. I use a simple ball valve on the gas post and gently vent while transferring. I use a 1/4" flare to 1/4" push connect adapter attached to my keg fitting. I then use a short piece of 1/4" poly tubing with a push connect valve attached. Start the transfer with the 2 vessels approximately equal in pressure, then crack the vent valve to allow transfer to continue. We use the same principal at work when racking from 120bbl fermenters into kegs and from keg-to-keg.
In this shot you can see a rig attached to the fermenter and we just vent the PET bottles with a valve on the Sanke tap.....no spunding, no gauge.
I just add a disconnect (with nothing attached) to vent the tank.
Which chiller do you have and what ratio of glycol did you use
Just looked in the 3 galllon glycol tank and discovered the tops of the copper cooling coils frosted up and the liquid level low. Haven’t had any leaks and know about a m9nth ago it was filled to the top. Can’t imagine that there was that much evaporation in this cool weather but......regardless It needs filling.
I know the initial ratio of glycol to distilled water. But what should I do now? Just add glycol? Or use the same rTio but at smaller portions till the reservoir is filled. Only reason I even noticed is the pale ale I am cold crashing only got to 40 deg and not 35.
On another note my transfer on Friday went well. The beer was 1/2 carbed when going into the keg. Beer wa much clearer with an extra week of cold crashing/conditioning. The dry hops in the current batch that will be kegged is hanging in a stocking (2oz) to see if that helps even more with clarity. I’m sure it will.
Meanwhile, did a big NEIIPA and moved that into the right uni. No way this is gonna be clear lol. 3 oz in the boil. 5oz in the fermenter after 3 days. And another 5 oz in at day 6 of fermentation.
I know the initial ratio of glycol to distilled water. But what should I do now? Just add glycol? Or use the same rTio but at smaller portions till the reservoir is filled. Only reason I even noticed is the pale ale I am cold crashing only got to 40 deg and not 35.
On another note my transfer on Friday went well. The beer was 1/2 carbed when going into the keg. Beer wa much clearer with an extra week of cold crashing/conditioning. The dry hops in the current batch that will be kegged is hanging in a stocking (2oz) to see if that helps even more with clarity. I’m sure it will.
Meanwhile, did a big NEIIPA and moved that into the right uni. No way this is gonna be clear lol. 3 oz in the boil. 5oz in the fermenter after 3 days. And another 5 oz in at day 6 of fermentation.
Morrey
Well-Known Member
Have you topped off the glycol/water reservoir yet? I honestly have no clue what a pan of pure glycol (straight from the jug, uncut with water) would do in terms of evaporation if set out in the open air. I would venture to guess that some of the water component of the glycol may evaporate and leave it more concentrated...but this is a pure guess on my part.
I'd be tempted to top it off with a glycol/water mix in the ratio you originally used, but I really don't know the right way to actually approach this. Hoping you may have found out or possibly someone else may see this and offer advice.
You can use a refractomer or hydrometer....should be in the 1.030's
So I just did a transfer using the new method from the video I posted above, it went perfectly! Easiest transfer since I started brewing. Usually its the most frustrating step, but this was great. So here is what I did.
1. I set the PSI to as close as possible between the tank and the keg.
2. I connected the keg in port to the tank carb stone port. Ideally I would have another connection via blow off valve to apply head pressure but need to reconfigure my ports. This worked fine though.
3. Next I connected my blichman quick carb between the keg out and the racking port (end butterfly from the bottom). I removed the carb stone and capped off that port on the quick carb. You could probably use any brew pump here but this one is easier to sanitize and has all the right connectors on it already.
4. I opened racking port on the tank, turned on the pump and to get it started released a small amount of pressure from the keg. That was it. Once it got going it had a nice steady flow the entire time.
One thing I would do differently next time is drop the very first beer to a bucket as it had a ton of junk in it. Luckily the flow from the pump kept the poppits from clogging but dumping that first but would further ensure a clog free transfer.
Overall took about 7-10 mins to completely transfer. Worked great.
1. I set the PSI to as close as possible between the tank and the keg.
2. I connected the keg in port to the tank carb stone port. Ideally I would have another connection via blow off valve to apply head pressure but need to reconfigure my ports. This worked fine though.
3. Next I connected my blichman quick carb between the keg out and the racking port (end butterfly from the bottom). I removed the carb stone and capped off that port on the quick carb. You could probably use any brew pump here but this one is easier to sanitize and has all the right connectors on it already.
4. I opened racking port on the tank, turned on the pump and to get it started released a small amount of pressure from the keg. That was it. Once it got going it had a nice steady flow the entire time.
One thing I would do differently next time is drop the very first beer to a bucket as it had a ton of junk in it. Luckily the flow from the pump kept the poppits from clogging but dumping that first but would further ensure a clog free transfer.
Overall took about 7-10 mins to completely transfer. Worked great.
Tozzi
Active Member
That's a brilliant idea, using the Quick Carb set.
I've got two beers ready for kegging, one is sitting in my Unitank, the other in a 10 Gal. Brite, both pressurized.
How did you cap off the unused port on the Blichmann kit?
That’s cool that it went so well congratulations! I don’t understand the purpose of the quick carb pump if you are using co2 to push to the liquid out of the keg? Would you mind discussing this in more detail?
My fifth batch transfer went well. It was the best so far. I had a co2 tank with two air lines running the same psi. One was hooked up to the air stone port of the unitank. The other went to the empty keg. To get the beer to flow was still hands on. In other words the prv on the keg still needed pulling. If I notice co2 breaking out into the line I just turned of the co2 to the keg. Once I figured out the pressure difference to get the beer to flow little corrections were needed. Another thing that helps usually monitor flow and vessel pressure rates is a small inline sight glass that I have connected to the racking butterfly of the unitank.
Good call on dumping some to waste at first I’ve been doing this as well just to be safe. The extra week conditioning, carbing, and cold crashing this last beer made a difference in clarity for sure. As did socking the dryhops. The beer was clear, and only going to get it clearer as it sits in the keg. Being able to drink it right away since it was carbed and cold was also a plus. This extra week is going to be built into my process from now on. Since the beer is 35 deg going into the keg you can also see a condensation line form as it fills. Guess I should get a scale to measure 5 gallons by weight but this works as well.
This video was the transfer before this one when I was still trying to figure out the co2 pressure for the two vessels. You can see the co2 breaking out. In the last transfer with a More balanced pressure between there was waaaay less co2 in the sight valve.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=19-TZMGECidyPezFSglUvIiUPgWHHO8EU
My fifth batch transfer went well. It was the best so far. I had a co2 tank with two air lines running the same psi. One was hooked up to the air stone port of the unitank. The other went to the empty keg. To get the beer to flow was still hands on. In other words the prv on the keg still needed pulling. If I notice co2 breaking out into the line I just turned of the co2 to the keg. Once I figured out the pressure difference to get the beer to flow little corrections were needed. Another thing that helps usually monitor flow and vessel pressure rates is a small inline sight glass that I have connected to the racking butterfly of the unitank.
Good call on dumping some to waste at first I’ve been doing this as well just to be safe. The extra week conditioning, carbing, and cold crashing this last beer made a difference in clarity for sure. As did socking the dryhops. The beer was clear, and only going to get it clearer as it sits in the keg. Being able to drink it right away since it was carbed and cold was also a plus. This extra week is going to be built into my process from now on. Since the beer is 35 deg going into the keg you can also see a condensation line form as it fills. Guess I should get a scale to measure 5 gallons by weight but this works as well.
This video was the transfer before this one when I was still trying to figure out the co2 pressure for the two vessels. You can see the co2 breaking out. In the last transfer with a More balanced pressure between there was waaaay less co2 in the sight valve.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=19-TZMGECidyPezFSglUvIiUPgWHHO8EU
