Looking for quick disconnects for the glycol chiller lines, any suggestions?
I have these for glycol line disconnects. You’d need (2) each of the male and female for a supply run and return run. A bit pricey, it was $44 with shipping for the (4) parts, but they are very high quality and don’t spill even a drop.
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-8162-ns4-valved-in-line-hose-barb-coupling-body-38-id-barb.aspx
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...ine-hose-barb-coupling-insert-38-id-barb.aspx
In case anyone was wondering they are shipping with the FTSs mounting bracket starting last week
Looking for quick disconnects for the glycol chiller lines, any suggestions?
Also I ordered a PET jar and I am going to try that vs the glass. Dont want to worry about it possibly shattering.
Just did a run through with my CIP ball for the first time. Tank was clean but hasn't been used since November, so just did a recirculation with a hose off the bottom into my riptide pump. Worked well. Ordered a sump pump, should be here today, for the heavy clean up. Want to try and see if I can modify my kettle top for CIP, man that would make life easier.
https://www.morebeer.com/products/beer-gas-quick-connect-inline-set-shutoff.htmlI have these for glycol line disconnects. You’d need (2) each of the male and female for a supply run and return run. A bit pricey, it was $44 with shipping for the (4) parts, but they are very high quality and don’t spill even a drop.
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-8162-ns4-valved-in-line-hose-barb-coupling-body-38-id-barb.aspx
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...ine-hose-barb-coupling-insert-38-id-barb.aspx
https://www.morebeer.com/products/beer-gas-quick-connect-inline-set-shutoff.html
Much cheaper. And does a great job also
Here is an interesting video i just watched showing how a brewery transfers beer from unitank to bright tank. One thing they do is actually equalize the pressure by connecting a line from blow off valve to the receiving tank. For our purposes this could be blow off valve to CO2 in on the keg. They then equalize the pressure between both tanks first. So would need keg at same level or a tick higher than tank to prevent beer from back pressuring into the keg. Next they use an inline pump (like chugger, riptide) to control the flow of beer from the unitank to the bright or in our case keg. I am wondering if this would work well for home use? This might help with some of the issues people are having. I might actually try this. Might make it easier than trying to use a spunding valve and manually adjust the pressure keeping just the right pressure between the two tanks.
Thinking this through even more, by not using a spunding valve, would also not send any aroma from the hops into the air, could lead to better finished product.
Did you have to request they send it to you? Or did they just send it to you since they knew you bought and didn't get one?I just received my FTS TC clamp shelf in the mail today. That was fast and free of charge. Nice!
Did you have to request they send it to you? Or did they just send it to you since they knew you bought and didn't get one?
Reference post #727, page 19 of this thread.
If anyone has been able to "negotiate" a situation in that Ss sends these at N/C, this sets a precedence that Ss will most certainly stand behind for us all. I hope to find out if this is in fact true.
$30 plus shipping for (2) sets, so maybe a bit cheaper. I also wanted to go with 3/8” barbed fittings to minimize the restriction on flow rate.
But yes, there are countless options available to get the job done. I never realized the world of aquarium parts was so large!
I also have the Brite tank (10 gal) and was disappointed that there wasn't a way to relieve pressure when there is product in the tank. I modified mine like this:
Are those pool noodles? Or what kinda insulation are you running I like the aesthetics of it lolThis is how I did it. My tank’s PRV is a TC fitting. I substituted with a TC tee and then attached the PRV. I put a TC ball lock gas post on the other side for serving. View attachment 558892
This is how I did it. My tank’s PRV is a TC fitting. I substituted with a TC tee and then attached the PRV. I put a TC ball lock gas post on the other side for serving. View attachment 558892
I shall, too, very soon try to transfer my first pressured batches from both Brite and Unitank into NC kegs.
Closed Loop transfer, using gravity, will probably, albeit slowly, work with my Brite (it sits on a scissor-style lifting table) but not with the Unitank, so I might have to use a spunding valve.
These usually suck, but I recently stumbled across this one, which to me looks promising:
https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=spundingvalve
Has anyone tried this? Hopefully it will allow for keg pressure to be set as close as possible (within 1-2 psi) to the Unitank's, in order to limit the foam building up inside the keg but still get some flow...
I reckon the small diameter of the dip tube will actually be an advantage, for once, and that patience is key (as always).
Chilling the beer to 32˚F (0˚C) is not an option (yet), unfortunately.
41˚F (5˚C) will have to suffice.
Ah, pressurizing was not my problem, it's relieving the pressure that I couldn't do. The 10 gallon Brite Tanks does not have any capability to vent the head space other than the PRV. So if pressure builds beyond your desired pressure, there is no way to vent the tank other than just pouring beer. I added the T and valve so I could relieve head pressure from the tank if I need to...like to vent so I can add fining agent.
Which chiller do you have and what ratio of glycol did you useThanks. I did not know you could set chiller lower than 26. Will try that.
Just looked in the 3 galllon glycol tank and discovered the tops of the copper cooling coils frosted up and the liquid level low. Haven’t had any leaks and know about a m9nth ago it was filled to the top. Can’t imagine that there was that much evaporation in this cool weather but......regardless It needs filling.
I know the initial ratio of glycol to distilled water. But what should I do now? Just add glycol? Or use the same rTio but at smaller portions till the reservoir is filled. Only reason I even noticed is the pale ale I am cold crashing only got to 40 deg and not 35.
Just looked in the 3 galllon glycol tank and discovered the tops of the copper cooling coils frosted up and the liquid level low. Haven’t had any leaks and know about a m9nth ago it was filled to the top. Can’t imagine that there was that much evaporation in this cool weather but......regardless It needs filling.
I know the initial ratio of glycol to distilled water. But what should I do now? Just add glycol? Or use the same rTio but at smaller portions till the reservoir is filled. Only reason I even noticed is the pale ale I am cold crashing only got to 40 deg and not 35.
On another note my transfer on Friday went well. The beer was 1/2 carbed when going into the keg. Beer wa much clearer with an extra week of cold crashing/conditioning. The dry hops in the current batch that will be kegged is hanging in a stocking (2oz) to see if that helps even more with clarity. I’m sure it will.
Meanwhile, did a big NEIIPA and moved that into the right uni. No way this is gonna be clear lol. 3 oz in the boil. 5oz in the fermenter after 3 days. And another 5 oz in at day 6 of fermentation.
That's a brilliant idea, using the Quick Carb set.I connected my blichman quick carb between the keg out and the racking port (end butterfly from the bottom). I removed the carb stone and capped off that port on the quick carb.
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