Double IPA Recipe - Come in and leave your $0.02!

[WDT]

I'm in the process of tooling around with a recipe and wanted to get some feedback/suggestions.

Want to use Cascade and Centennials because I have a bunch of them. Would this be too much for a double IPA? With my efficiency (70-75%) i'd end up around 1.075. I can usually get 05 to attenuate around 80-85% which means an 8-8.5% beer.



This is for a 11 gallon batch.


Fermentables
20 lb American - Pale 2-Row
4 lb American - White Wheat
8 oz American - Carapils (Dextrine Malt)
1.5 lb Canadian - Honey Malt
2.5 lb Corn Sugar - Dextrose

Thinking of subbing the honey malt for crystal 20?????


Hops

3 oz Columbus - Boil 60 min

1 oz Centennial - Boil 15 min
1 oz Cascade - Boil 15 min

1 oz Centennial - Boil 10 min
1 oz Cascade - Boil 10 min

1 oz Centennial - Boil 5 min
1 oz Cascade - Boil 5 min

3 oz Cascade - Boil 0 min
3 oz Centennial - Boil 0 min

Hopstand for 20-30 min before chilling.


3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 7 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 7 days

Safale 05 or WLP001

 

[thisisbeer]

I would lower the honey malt, or get rid of it personally. I think you'll find a pound and a half being to much. A double IPA should be a showcase of hops not malt. I would also double the dry hops and do two four day dry hops. I have been told the dry hops are better utilized this way. I don't know how but it seems to hold true for me. I would take the 15 minute addition and move it to 45 the 10 minutes to 30 and the 5 minute to flamout. just my .02 cents

 

[Glynn]

If it were me i would do this

16 lb pale
1 lb wheat
1 lb munich
1 lb crystal 10L
1.5 lbs corn sugar

if fell the need to add honey malt use .25lb
and add a 30 min bittering addition and split your dry hop into two 4 days session
mash at 152/154

 

[eltorrente]

Yeah, get rid of the honey malt. I would have 1lb of Crystal 40, myself. 1.5lbs would work also, though.

I like the hop schedule - I wouldn't change a thing. It will taste and smell great.

 

[jperry]

I would also suggest getting rid of all the Honey Malt, and CaraPils. I'd mash low and long, maybe with an oz of C.T.Z in the mash or FWH. And lastly, I would not add any hops at 15,10,5 mins, save those 6oz for later. I'm a hop head, and even that sounds like overkill to me. Use some of those leftover hops, for a double dry hop.

Keep the flameout addition, But steep them for at least 30-45 mins around 160*F.

For Yeast, I like WLP007 for my IPAs. It ferments quicker, and cleans up faster. Meaning, I can drink it faster.

There's my 2 cents...

 

[thisisbeer]

IMHO all late addition hops are for are aroma and you lose that while you boil them. So why even boil them? A brewery usually used 1 to 3 pounds of dry hops per barrel which would be 5-16 ounces of hops in a 11 gallon beer. I really recommend upping the dry hops at the very least. I try not to use more than 10% of any speciality grains in my big IPA's. I like them to dry out and finish around 1.010 and definitely under 1.015. Depending on the grain bill I mash between 148-150 to insure good attenuation.

If you don't feel like you are going to get enough malt character use an English Ale yeast instead of US-05 or WLP001. WLP007 is a good choice.

 

[WDT]

Thanks for all the suggestions... i'm going to make some changes.

Fermentables
20 lb American - Pale 2-Row
4 lb American - White Wheat
1 lb American Light Munich (8-10L)
1 lb Crystal 20
2.5 lb Corn Sugar - Dextrose


Hops

3 oz Columbus - Boil 60 min

4 oz Cascade - Boil 0 min
4 oz Centennial - Boil 0 min

Hopstand 30-40 min before chilling.

1st
3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 4 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 4 days

2nd
3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 4 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 4 days

 

[thisisbeer]

The only change I may make would be add more hops for flavoring and bittering or take 1 ounce of each flame out addition and add it in at 60 or 45 minutes. But honestly I think you will be really pleased with the recipe you listed. I would mash around 148-150 to get it down to around 1.012, according to beersmith anyway. Let us know how it turns out!

 

[LoloMT7]

Thanks for all the suggestions... i'm going to make some changes.

Fermentables
20 lb American - Pale 2-Row
4 lb American - White Wheat
1 lb American Light Munich (8-10L)
1 lb Crystal 20
2.5 lb Corn Sugar - Dextrose


Hops

3 oz Columbus - Boil 60 min

4 oz Cascade - Boil 0 min
4 oz Centennial - Boil 0 min

Hopstand 30-40 min before chilling.

1st
3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 4 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 4 days

2nd
3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 4 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 4 days

These guys are nuts don't listen to them! Some of my best beers have had lots of Honey Malt. I know i'm in the minority here but i say you add the 1.5 lbs of honey malt back in and don't do any stupid Crystal malt. Mash at 150. Honey Malt and lots of hops go together AWESOME! Just my .02

 

[thisisbeer]

Well it depends on what kind of IPA's you like I guess. Like I said I like my IPA's to be a showcase of hops, a dry finish and an explosion of hop character. Some people like IPA's with more balance and sweeter malt character. The difference is what people refer to when the mention west coast IPA's and East Coast IPA's most of the time, other times it's the hop selections. I guess I was assuming you liked west coast IPA's since your from CA. It's all up for you to decide. Do you like IPA's from Stone or Dogfish Head?

 

[hopbrad]

i would take out the honey and add in the crystal. i use crystal 60 in my IPAs and aromatic malt. i like some sweet malt flavor to hold up to the citrusy hops.
i would also only use 2 oz of columbus for bittering. or maybe 2 oz 60min and 1 oz 30 min.
i like the flavor and aroma to overpower the bitterness.
regardless that sounds awesome

 

[WDT]

I've been curious about the Honey malt, I wanted to try it out and thought the honey flavor would compliment the hops. After the responses (except yours LoloMT7) I've reconsidered.

Planned mash temp is 148-150F for 90min.

Great ideas on the hops, a double IPA should definitely jump out of the glass with aroma. I might even do more dry hops. I'll see how many hops I have left in the freezer. Brewing it next week.

What do people think about dropping the crystal and using 2-3 lbs of Munich? Is there enough malt sweetness there to balance??

 

[jperry]

I've been curious about the Honey malt, I wanted to try it out and thought the honey flavor would compliment the hops.

What do people think about dropping the crystal and using 2-3 lbs of Munich? Is there enough malt sweetness there to balance??

I think honey malt is great, and you should definitely try it out, but on a lighter beer like a pale ale.

Also, I just tried a pound each of Munich and Vienna Malt, in the IPA that I'm drinking right now. I think they fit in perfectly.

 

[thisisbeer]

+1 on the Munich it the right amounts it can be good.

 

[LoloMT7]

I could agree that if you were to use say 30% honey malt then you might end up with a pale ale but I think you could still make a really good double IPA with that small of an amount.. By the way this was a plenty hoppy brew and had plenty of hops to back up the honey malt. Good luck with whatever you do! https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/local-brewery-honey-citra-recipe-388178/

 

[pmcint01]

Sounds interesting.

 

[thisisbeer]

I just read the article I linked to and thought of this post. It's by no means a guideline, but it will help you design a Double IPA. It's also from a pretty reputable IPA brewer

Double IPA

 

[WDT]

Nice, thanks for the link. Me and a buddy are brewing it this Friday night.

 

[WDT]

Brewed and fermenting away!

Ended up hitting 1.074. Pitched the US05 at 66F and have ramped it up to 69F over the course of the last 4 days.

Recipe used:

Fermentables
20 lb American - Pale 2-Row
4 lb American - White Wheat
1 lb American Light Munich (8-10L)
1 lb Crystal 20
2.5 lb Corn Sugar - Dextrose (added last 15 min of boil)

Mash @ 150F for 90 minutes


Hops

4 oz Columbus - Boil 60 min

4 oz Cascade - Boil 0 min
4 oz Centennial - Boil 0 min

Hopstand 30min before chilling.

1st
3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 4 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 4 days

2nd
3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 4 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 4 days

US05, 2 packets in each fermenter.
Oxygenated with O2

Ferment at 67-70F

 

[thisisbeer]

Let us know how it turns out. Looks good!

 

[WDT]

Thought i'd come back and update this thread.

I am about half way through this keg. This thing finished out down to 1.007, crazy. I subbed the second addition of dry hop to Amarillo and Simcoe and i think that was the right choice.

The beer is wonderfully floral and citrusy. Smells predominately of the centennials, I could pick out the amarillo and simcoe but they have faded a little after about a week and a half. This thing is boozy too, coming in at about 8.75% abv. It's a little light on the mouth feel and I might cut the sugar down a bit next time or increase the mash temps.

It's pretty much exactly what I was aiming for, and a successful test to see if my system could handle a high gravity 10 gallon batch.

 

[chri5]

Next time give your original hop schedule a try and see how it compares. I've always preferred a lot of late hop additions over a lot of dry hopping.

Maybe I'm just not dry hopping with enough hops. I'll try a recipe like this next time.

 

[Glynn]

Brewed and fermenting away!

Ended up hitting 1.074. Pitched the US05 at 66F and have ramped it up to 69F over the course of the last 4 days.

Recipe used:

Fermentables
20 lb American - Pale 2-Row
4 lb American - White Wheat
1 lb American Light Munich (8-10L)
1 lb Crystal 20
2.5 lb Corn Sugar - Dextrose (added last 15 min of boil)

Mash @ 150F for 90 minutes


Hops

4 oz Columbus - Boil 60 min

4 oz Cascade - Boil 0 min
4 oz Centennial - Boil 0 min

Hopstand 30min before chilling.

1st
3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 4 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 4 days

2nd
3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 4 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 4 days

US05, 2 packets in each fermenter.
Oxygenated with O2

Ferment at 67-70F

do you crush your own grains? with that much malt and sugar i would think your abv would be higher. I just made this one today with an og 1.075

15 lbs Pale Malt (2-Row) Canadian Malting Co (
1 lbs Caramel Malt - 20L (Cargill) (20.0 SRM) Grain 8 5.6 %
8.0 oz Carapils (Briess) (1.5 SRM) Grain 9 2.8 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz Corn Sugar (Dextrose) (0.0 SRM) Sugar 11 8.3 %

2.00 oz Warrior [16.00 %] - First Wort 90.0 min Hop 10 88.9 IBUs
2.00 oz Chinook [11.40 %] - Boil 45.0 min Hop 12 49.4 IBUs
2.00 oz Simcoe pellet [12.90 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 13 46.8 IBUs
1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins) Fining 14 -
1.00 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [15.20 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 15 17.8 IBUs
1.00 oz Cascade pellet [6.20 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 16 5.3 IBUs
1.00 oz Centennial [8.40 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 17 4.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Cascade pellet [6.20 %] - Aroma Steep 0.0 min Hop 18 0.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Simcoe pellet [12.90 %] - Aroma Steep 0.0 min Hop 19 0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg Pacman (wyeast #1764) Yeast 20 -
1.50 oz Cascade pellet [6.20 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 21 0.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Centennial pellet [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 22 0.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Simcoe pellet [12.90 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days

 

[WDT]

do you crush your own grains? with that much malt and sugar i would think your abv would be higher. I just made this one today with an og 1.075

15 lbs Pale Malt (2-Row) Canadian Malting Co (
1 lbs Caramel Malt - 20L (Cargill) (20.0 SRM) Grain 8 5.6 %
8.0 oz Carapils (Briess) (1.5 SRM) Grain 9 2.8 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz Corn Sugar (Dextrose) (0.0 SRM) Sugar 11 8.3 %

2.00 oz Warrior [16.00 %] - First Wort 90.0 min Hop 10 88.9 IBUs
2.00 oz Chinook [11.40 %] - Boil 45.0 min Hop 12 49.4 IBUs
2.00 oz Simcoe pellet [12.90 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 13 46.8 IBUs
1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins) Fining 14 -
1.00 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [15.20 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 15 17.8 IBUs
1.00 oz Cascade pellet [6.20 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 16 5.3 IBUs
1.00 oz Centennial [8.40 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 17 4.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Cascade pellet [6.20 %] - Aroma Steep 0.0 min Hop 18 0.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Simcoe pellet [12.90 %] - Aroma Steep 0.0 min Hop 19 0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg Pacman (wyeast #1764) Yeast 20 -
1.50 oz Cascade pellet [6.20 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 21 0.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Centennial pellet [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 22 0.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Simcoe pellet [12.90 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days

I batch sparge and usually get between 70-75% efficiency. This is a 11 gallon batch. Yes, I do crush my own grains.

 

[WDT]

Next time give your original hop schedule a try and see how it compares. I've always preferred a lot of late hop additions over a lot of dry hopping.

Maybe I'm just not dry hopping with enough hops. I'll try a recipe like this next time.

After this batch I can see what benifet a massive hop stand does. You definitely get a lot of flavor from it. There is a place for both methods though. I think with the original recipe the added bitterness would have balanced better with the alcohol, at the cost of some hop flavor character.

So the lesson learned here for me... More hops!

 

[chri5]

My next IPA will be the recipe you did in a 5-gallon batch size. Centennial is one of my favorite hops, and I am coming around to the idea of adding that much during dry hopping.

 

[Glynn]

I batch sparge and usually get between 70-75% efficiency. This is a 11 gallon batch. Yes, I do crush my own grains.

Sorry, I missed that part in your OP

 

[WDT]

Cheers Homebrewtalk!