Ahem,
Actually, the pressure is regulated by a weighted conical pin that fits atop a hollow tube with a small inner diameter. The area of the passage and the mass of the regulator generate ~1 atmosphere of pressure differential before it overcomes the weight, and venting occurs. Should the weight become blocked or jammed, a few additional kpa will cause the silicone cap seal on the end of the float valve, which serves as a burst-disk, to rupture and venting occurs. Should that fail, additional pressure forces the inner pot down onto an overpressure sensor in the base which will open the circuit for the calrod heat element, and pressure will stop rising. It's a variable sensor as well, the mechanism which enables 2 or more pressure settings. Should that sensor fail, the silicone main gasket is forced to vent via fin seal flexure, causing excess pressure to vent around the perimeter of the lid, safely directed downward into the condensate channel. Should all of the above somehow fail, the temp sensor in the pot will detect a temperature higher than what corresponds to the boiling point of water at 1atm, and open the heating circuit.
Unless you have severely overcooked mental oatmeal in your bone ramekin, you're safe.
Source-
I design kitchen appliances.