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American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

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I brewed this last weekend. Hit 1.073 for my OG, but I realized, as I was sleeping that night, that I forgot the irish moss (again) and I used a full pound of marris otter rather than the amount called for. DOH.
 
If anyone has the time, i'd love it if someone would convert this to Extract with steeping grains for me. This sounds delicious, and i love DFH 60's anyway.
 
Yooper (or anyone),
Can anyone covert this over to partial mash? After the holidays I will be able to do all grain brews but I wanted to get this one going asap!!
Thanks in advance!
 
I currently have a 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler with a false bottom but I only have a 5 gallon kettle. I am getting a 10 gallon kettle from the wife.
I really want to get to all grain.......the wait is killing me!
 
Chris_Dog said:
Is Wyeast 07250 the proper yeast to use? Not finding Pacman

I don't know- I used pacman once, and then I used dry yeast (Nottingham) once. I don't know that particular yeast- but I'd use a clean fermenting ale yeast- this beer is all about the hops!
 
YooperBrew said:
I don't know- I used pacman once, and then I used dry yeast (Nottingham) once. I don't know that particular yeast- but I'd use a clean fermenting ale yeast- this beer is all about the hops!

Here is the info...

1792 Fat Tire Ale Yeast. This eagerly-anticipated Wyeast VSS release is the proprietary strain used by New Belgium Brewery in their cult favorite Fat Tire Amber Ale. Apparent attenuation: 73-77%. Flocculation: low. Optimum temp: 65°-72° F

<EDIT> Wow I got the numbers wrong on the 1st post... sorry
 
Chris_Dog said:
Here is the info...

1792 Fat Tire Ale Yeast. This eagerly-anticipated Wyeast VSS release is the proprietary strain used by New Belgium Brewery in their cult favorite Fat Tire Amber Ale. Apparent attenuation: 73-77%. Flocculation: low. Optimum temp: 65°-72° F

<EDIT> Wow I got the numbers wrong on the 1st post... sorry

I would not buy this yeast to use exclusively for this beer. I believe that Yooper used Pacman because she had that around and it is a clean ferementing yeast. I used WLP001 and had great results. My top 3 choices would be WLP001, Wyeast 1056, or Safale 05. I think the Fat Tire strain might through some flavors in there that will move it away from a clone, but I am sure it will still be an excellent beer.
 
Beerrific said:
I would not buy this yeast to use exclusively for this beer. I believe that Yooper used Pacman because she had that around and it is a clean ferementing yeast. I used WLP001 and had great results. My top 3 choices would be WLP001, Wyeast 1056, or Safale 05. I think the Fat Tire strain might through some flavors in there that will move it away from a clone, but I am sure it will still be an excellent beer.

Yeah, I used pacman last year because I had it saved and it is a super clean high attenuating yeast. I think the FT strain might give you some "Belgian-y" flavors. I mean use it if you want, because it might make a great beer, like Beerrific said, but not a clone.
 
Is it just me, or are the SRM's not right on this? This pictures come out showing a nice amber beer, but BeerSmith is telling me to expect something more straw-colored.
 
Sir Humpsalot said:
Is it just me, or are the SRM's not right on this? This pictures come out showing a nice amber beer, but BeerSmith is telling me to expect something more straw-colored.
BeerSmith's little picture is pretty deceptive. It only shows about three shades to me: light yellow, golden amber, and black. The recipe is a pretty good approximation of the DFH brew in both color and flavor.
 
Thanks Yuri.

Well, I used 3/4lb of Crystal 60 instead of Maris Otter (didn't have any lying around). I also First Wort Hopped a half ounce of Amarillo in the place of some of the Warrior because I like the flavor from FWH and don't care to make a beer too bitter.
And I mashed at 155 to make for a maltier beer.

What can I say? I like DFH60 well enough, but it's a bit too hoppy for me. :eek:

So I'm making it more to my liking. Thanks for the recipe, yoop. I think it's going to be a good one...
 
This is my next beer for sure. One problem is finding Warrier and Simcoe hops. They seem hard to find pellets..I have to check my local guy but online they are scarce...anyone else have this problem?

Jay

I do love the beer and can not wait. I was thinking mash a bit higher to attempt to have a bit more malt and body maybe 155?? or 156.
 
discgolfin said:
This is my next beer for sure. One problem is finding Warrier and Simcoe hops. They seem hard to find pellets..I have to check my local guy but online they are scarce...anyone else have this problem?


Try austinhomebrew, that's where I got mine. Or hops direct.
 
I just transfered this to secondary 4 days ago and dry hopped. It now is crystal clear and i can see through to the other side of the carboy, (looks beautiful). I have never seen this before. it is always cloudy right through to bottling time. is this normal? will there be enough yeast to carbonate?

Thanks.
 
also, the hops are all just floating on top and slowly dropping; should i try to get them to settle out? or do i just rack it to the bottle bucket and not worry?
 
This is my first beer with my new barley crusher..Im mashin right now. I took some advice and went for 155 to try to get a bit more malt and body. I have not used the crusher and up until now my eff. has sucked at 60 to 65. So i uped 10% as usual. I might exceed my OG a bit. If I hit 75% like I hope than my OG will be 1.076 to 1.077. High for sure. Im not sure if I want to have good eff. or a bad so I hit the recipe closer..I did up the hop a bit in case I do hit a higher number.

Jay

holding nice at 155
 
The grain bill is roughly 13.5 pounds. At 1.25 quarts per pound the mash water comes out to about 4.25 gallons. I will get about 3.5 gallons after I vorlauf and drain to my 10 gallon kettle due to grain absorption.
I am going to do a batch sparge in my 10 gallon cooler with false bottom. How much water should I use?
I want to get to my boil volume which is about 6 gallons. I guess I would use only 2 gallons to achieve my boil volume in the kettle?
 
StankAle said:
The grain bill is roughly 13.5 pounds. At 1.25 quarts per pound the mash water comes out to about 4.25 gallons. I will get about 3.5 gallons after I vorlauf and drain to my 10 gallon kettle due to grain absorption.
I am going to do a batch sparge in my 10 gallon cooler with false bottom. How much water should I use?
I want to get to my boil volume which is about 6 gallons. I guess I would use only 2 gallons to achieve my boil volume in the kettle?

Do you have Beersmith? I have this recipe in Beersmith myself, and I could post that here if it'd help.
 
I have Promash at home I was just trying to calculate this here at work. I can easily wait until I get home and let the software do the work. :rockin:
 
Just to give an update, took a sample out of primary today and with OG or 1.072 Im looking at FG 1.015..I beleive this is a bit closer to the original. Not much malt flavor but its only been 10 days ..seems like it will be very nice. I mashed at 155 for 60 so if anyone is interested.

Jay
 
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