American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract
- Thread starter Yooper
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk:
Thanks for the fast reply Yooper. Think I'll just stick with the higher % version then for my first go at this one, then work on lowering it. If you find one you like let me know and I'll do the same!
Thanks again
lextasy23
Well-Known Member
Anyone want to give me a hand with a few questions about a DFH 90 Minute clone?
The link is in my signature ↓↓↓ Thanks.
The link is in my signature ↓↓↓ Thanks.
spyder2723
Well-Known Member
Pretty happy so far. Brewed the extract version last weekend and hit the OG dead on. Checked it today and I am at 1.016 so I am very happy. The sample tasted very good, even the wife enjoyed it. However it was very cloudy, and I used Irish moss. Right now I am planning on leaving it in the primary another week, then to the secondary to dry hop for a weekish. Do you think that will clear it up? Or is there something else I should do? I am just starting out so I am lacking on equipment to cold crash and such.
OP
OP
Maybe! My beers tend to be pretty clear, but you may have a "hops haze" with some IPAs and then they don't really clear very well. Maybe you just have a ton of yeast still in suspension, which will clear well with some time. Some yeast strains, like S05, don't clear all that well quickly while some clear the beer very quickly (like s04). Time does do quite a lot for clarity, so it might clear up without any problem.
norciabrewmonk
Member
I just made this on the extract recipe right before Easter. Great beer. Unfortunately, I didn't mix my priming sugar well, so some bottles were either flat, or others were too sweet. Either way, the entire batch has now been drunk, and I want to try it again with a few tweaks.
Great recipe though. Thanks much!
Great recipe though. Thanks much!
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
tekknoschtev
Well-Known Member
I just started a 10 gallon batch of this BIAB style. 26+ lbs of grain dry weighs a heck of a lot more wet. This is the most amount of grain I've used in a recipe, at least that I can recall, and it was... cumbersome. Next time I'll have my ladder out, and I'll have stitched in a rope to hold the bag closed and give me something to lift from.
Otherwise, I'm very excited for this brew.
Otherwise, I'm very excited for this brew.
Tizzomes
Well-Known Member
Ladder sounds like a good idea
Tizzomes
Well-Known Member
A ladder sounds like a good idea, I brewed extract version and turned out great.Keep us posted I'm slowly making the transition to all grain ( biab )
norciabrewmonk
Member
When I did the extract version, one thing I didn't do was hit the original gravity. I was quite a bit over (1.082). I made 2 liter yeast starter starting with a 1.040 wort and using the WYeast 1056 American Ale smackpack.
Now, I will admit that when we steeped the grains, we squeezed the hell out of the grain bag at the end to get out as much of the sugars as possible (at the time I didn't know the possible tannin problem of doing that
).
So, otherwise we followed the instructions in the extract version (substituted Columbus because that was all I could get). I then topped it off to 17 liters before adding the yeast starter (whole thing, didn't decant the yeast). Before I added the yeast starter it was around 1.090, then the yeast starter diluted it to 1.082. Do you think I went over because we squeezed the grain bag too much, or could it just be my brand of powdered malt extract, or am I missing some other calculation?
This was what we did:
Measure out:
- 28.3 g of Columbus hops
- 21.3 g of Amarillo hops
- 21.3 g of Simcoe hops
(then mix Amarillo and Simcoe together)
Steep crystal malt in 2.5 gallons (9.5 liters) of water
at 150F-155F (65C-68C - no higher than 75C) for 20 minutes.
"Sparge" with about 1 liter of hot water.
[also squeezed the hell out of the bag while "sparging"]
Bring to a boil (while bringing to a boil, measure out - 3.85 kg of DME
Remove from heat and stir in DME.
Add one more liter of hot water (use it to get all the DME out of the measuring bowl)
Return to burner and bring to a boil.
When at a boil set the timer to 60 minutes.
60min left (0 min started) Begin timer and add half the Columbus hops.
| Then add a few pellets every minute or so.
| (aim to add remaining few Columbus hop pellets at 35min left (25 min later)
35min left (25 min later) Add remaining Columbus hops
| Start adding mix of Amarillo and Simcoe a few pellets at a time
| (aim to add remaining few hops when timer hits 0 min left (60 min later)
15 min left (45 min later) add wort chiller to boil
|
0 min left (60 min later) Stop boil (add any remaining hop pellets right before flameout)
Chill wort rapidly to about 70F (20.0C).
Pour wort into fermenter through strainer.
Add bottled water to fill to 17 liters
Aerate wort with wisk for about a minute or two
Take gravity reading
Pitch yeast (starter)
Ferment for about 2 weeks at around 70F (21.1C) (ideally 15-22C) ie keep it cool!
After two weeks
Dryhop with the 1oz (28.3g) of Amarillo and 0.5oz (14.2g) of Simcoe (just throw in the hops into the primary)
Wait for about a 7-10 days
Bottle with 4 oz (113g) priming sugar.
Bottle condition for at least 3 weeks.
Now, I will admit that when we steeped the grains, we squeezed the hell out of the grain bag at the end to get out as much of the sugars as possible (at the time I didn't know the possible tannin problem of doing that
).So, otherwise we followed the instructions in the extract version (substituted Columbus because that was all I could get). I then topped it off to 17 liters before adding the yeast starter (whole thing, didn't decant the yeast). Before I added the yeast starter it was around 1.090, then the yeast starter diluted it to 1.082. Do you think I went over because we squeezed the grain bag too much, or could it just be my brand of powdered malt extract, or am I missing some other calculation?
This was what we did:
Measure out:
- 28.3 g of Columbus hops
- 21.3 g of Amarillo hops
- 21.3 g of Simcoe hops
(then mix Amarillo and Simcoe together)
Steep crystal malt in 2.5 gallons (9.5 liters) of water
at 150F-155F (65C-68C - no higher than 75C) for 20 minutes.
"Sparge" with about 1 liter of hot water.
[also squeezed the hell out of the bag while "sparging"]
Bring to a boil (while bringing to a boil, measure out - 3.85 kg of DME
Remove from heat and stir in DME.
Add one more liter of hot water (use it to get all the DME out of the measuring bowl)
Return to burner and bring to a boil.
When at a boil set the timer to 60 minutes.
60min left (0 min started) Begin timer and add half the Columbus hops.
| Then add a few pellets every minute or so.
| (aim to add remaining few Columbus hop pellets at 35min left (25 min later)
35min left (25 min later) Add remaining Columbus hops
| Start adding mix of Amarillo and Simcoe a few pellets at a time
| (aim to add remaining few hops when timer hits 0 min left (60 min later)
15 min left (45 min later) add wort chiller to boil
|
0 min left (60 min later) Stop boil (add any remaining hop pellets right before flameout)
Chill wort rapidly to about 70F (20.0C).
Pour wort into fermenter through strainer.
Add bottled water to fill to 17 liters
Aerate wort with wisk for about a minute or two
Take gravity reading
Pitch yeast (starter)
Ferment for about 2 weeks at around 70F (21.1C) (ideally 15-22C) ie keep it cool!
After two weeks
Dryhop with the 1oz (28.3g) of Amarillo and 0.5oz (14.2g) of Simcoe (just throw in the hops into the primary)
Wait for about a 7-10 days
Bottle with 4 oz (113g) priming sugar.
Bottle condition for at least 3 weeks.
CPooley4
Well-Known Member
nm
Cybershadow
Well-Known Member
I downloaded his bsm file and opened in beersmith. The color says 5.2, but the actual beer he made, along with dfh 60 looks darker. Is it me or is beersmith off on the color calculation?
When I did the extract version, one thing I didn't do was hit the original gravity. I was quite a bit over (1.082). I made 2 liter yeast starter starting with a 1.040 wort and using the WYeast 1056 American Ale smackpack.
Now, I will admit that when we steeped the grains, we squeezed the hell out of the grain bag at the end to get out as much of the sugars as possible (at the time I didn't know the possible tannin problem of doing that
So, otherwise we followed the instructions in the extract version (substituted Columbus because that was all I could get). I then topped it off to 17 liters before adding the yeast starter (whole thing, didn't decant the yeast). Before I added the yeast starter it was around 1.090, then the yeast starter diluted it to 1.082. Do you think I went over because we squeezed the grain bag too much, or could it just be my brand of powdered malt extract, or am I missing some other calculation?
The assumption here is that you bring your volume to 17 liters allowing the 2 liter starter to bring your total volume to 5 gallons (19 liters), is that right?
I think the "problem" is that per the recipe those last two liters would be water (1.000) and not starter wort (1.040) which would lower the OG a bit more.
You can:
* Decant your yeast starter and only pitch the yeast
* Fill to 19L and then pitch the starter (bringing total volume to 21L)
* Enjoy your slightly increased alcohol content
I am happy to be corrected but I don't think you get much more dissolved sugars by squeezing the steeped grain bag, mostly starches.
OP
OP
clydo
Member
This is a 5 star beer in my book. I brewed this last month and am down to a six pack. Amazing and packs a punch.
Brewing the extract recipe on Saturday.
Just want to be clear on when to add first and final hop additions to the boil. Did anyone use a specific hop schedule or just followed Yoopers directions to a tee?
If local HBS does not have Pacman is White Labs ok?
Just want to be clear on when to add first and final hop additions to the boil. Did anyone use a specific hop schedule or just followed Yoopers directions to a tee?
If local HBS does not have Pacman is White Labs ok?
OP
OP
I have been adding the bittering hops at 60 minutes, and then mixing up the simcoe and amarillo and continously hopping those in the last 30 minutes, ending at flame out. Lschiavo and I are making this on Saturday, and that's what we'll do. We're using magnum for bittering, since that's what we both have.
White labs yeast strains are fine- use WLP001 if they have it. Ferment it at 64-66 degrees if you can.
OP
OP
It's necessary! The dryhopping adds to it, and you can't really get the same aroma/flavor any other way.
Do I need to transfer to secondary to dry hop?
I really prefer to only move my beer once
norciabrewmonk
Member
You can dry hop in the primary. However, I HIGHLY recommend you use a hop bag. I just dumped my hops in. It didn't hurt the beer, but it made racking at bottling time a nightmare. My racking cane clogged three times, and the poor flow caused my priming sugar not to mix consistently.
Simplicity rules
Simplicity rules
XtremeBrew
Well-Known Member
I just dump my hops in too, but I wrap fine mesh bags around the bottom and the mouth of the siphon. It's still not perfect, but its only about 70% of the nightmare without it. That being said, I just ordered some hop balls from Northern Brewer today for future batches
I am fermenting at 70-73* so I assume that is going to be ok. Weather is warm so it is hard to keep the carboy (better bottle) cool. I have it sitting in a party bucket filled with about 6-7" water and I keep adding ice packs. I also have the carboy wrapped in a damp towel. Also had to install blow off tube (my 1st) as the airlock was full of brew 18 hours later and the activity is crazy. I was barley able to get my 3/8" siphon hose over the inner piece on the airlock and have it going to a growler filed with Star San. Did I do everything right?
Due to a scheduling conflict I can dry hop after 10-11 days or wait 15-16 days. I am hoping that I can do it after 10-11 days. Thoughts...? or does it just matter when the fermentation is complete?
Due to a scheduling conflict I can dry hop after 10-11 days or wait 15-16 days. I am hoping that I can do it after 10-11 days. Thoughts...? or does it just matter when the fermentation is complete?
You should be fine letting it sit if fermentation is done. I brewed a batch of this in Oct 2010. I bottled it June 2011. Taste is awesome! Just make sure to dry hop just before bottling so you don't loose the aroma.
nofootbreak
Well-Known Member
So I brewed an extract batch of this on the 5th and hit the OG dead on (obviously, since its extract...). I took a gravity reading while I opened up the carboy to dryhop last Thursday and got a reading of 1.011. I assume it has continued to drop a little bit since then, but I cant imagine much. Im going to bottle on Wed, but is there a chance this beer will be too dry? I used WLP001 with a 1L starter. The sample tasted awesome, and I cant wait to try it but not sure why my gravity is so low compared to the target in the recipe.
Fermentation has slowed way down and I removed the blow off tube on Saturday. Getting a bubble in the airlock every few minutes.
Should I take a gravity reading in 1-2 days before I dry hop or wait the full 14 days? It has only been 9 days so far.
Should I take a gravity reading in 1-2 days before I dry hop or wait the full 14 days? It has only been 9 days so far.
OP
OP
I'd wait until about a week before you plan to bottle. When you add the dryhops then, you can check the SG just to make sure you're on track.
I usually never take a gravity reading prior to bottling and have never dry hopped before. I just want to make sure fermentation before dry hopping is complete so I guess I need to take a reading.
I can dry hop tomorrow (in the primary) and then bottle next Wed. Otherwise, I have to wait and can dry hop on Sunday night and then bottle the following Sunday (this would be a 15 day ferment versus an 11 day).
I can dry hop tomorrow (in the primary) and then bottle next Wed. Otherwise, I have to wait and can dry hop on Sunday night and then bottle the following Sunday (this would be a 15 day ferment versus an 11 day).
tekknoschtev
Well-Known Member
Alright. Whatever I made based on this recipe was not exactly the DFH 60 clone I was expecting, however I consider what I made to be one of the best (if not the best) homebrews I've created to date. I'm 100% glad I took a "risk" on the 10 gallon batch without a 5 gallon trial first because it means I have a while before I'll need to brew again.
So. To all who have contributed to this recipe, a major thumbs up. To all who are on the fence? Get off the fence and start brewing.
So. To all who have contributed to this recipe, a major thumbs up. To all who are on the fence? Get off the fence and start brewing.
