does shank size really matter?

[liquid134]

other then the obvious, (it fitting through whatever your mounting it on) does size matter? i see a lot of refridgerator shanks and they are like 4inches or more...... my converted fridge door, is only MAYBE 2.5inches (i gutted the door and covered the insulation with some 1/4"? pressboard)

so would a 3 1/8" shank be fine or should i just get the 4"?


im also still confused on what to do about hose size (diameter and length). currently i have only a couple feet on each keg (not sure what diam. as it was a combo from my local brew place) and im getting foam even at low psi (i thought 8psi was a good number, am i wrong?)

 

[stpug]

I went through a fridge door also. I removed the door shelving so I'm looking at foam on the backside. I used some 3/8 plywood on the foam for the shanks. I used the 4 1/8" shanks and they are perfectly sized for this purpose. Any shorter would be too short, and any longer would be wasted space.

Temperature, liquid hose diameter, and length are your biggest determining factors for foaming issues (aside from leaks in the system and burst carbing). I use 5 foot, 3/16 ID bevflex 200, at 34-36ish degrees F, and have really good results. If I had to do again, I would simply buy 10 foot hoses same ID and brand.

Edit:
Sh*t, I lied. I have 4 1/8" shanks and they are a good size.

Edit2:
I just measured. I have ALMOST 3/4" between the end of the shank nut and the tailpiece nut. A 3 1/8 would NOT have worked.

 

[liquid134]

thanks for the quick response. what about bore size of the shank? or are they all 3/16?

 

[stpug]

Good question! I believe they are all actually 1/4" on the shanks but I could be wrong, however I think the shank bore size is standard regardless of hose ID.

Next question, stainless or chrome? No good answer there either. I opted for stainless on everything for "top of the line" factor, and say "ouch" just once. I should never need to replace them; they'll resell easier; they have no coating to wear off; and I can never attribute any problem to the chrome/brass. It's ALWAYs ONLY ever about money

 

[Roadie]

And by shank size you mean...

 

[liquid134]

roadie, by shank size i meant length (original topic anyway)



and as far as stainless or chrome, i think for the shanks im just gonna get chrome for now (cyber monday deal) i just cant recall what size tubing this is, and what tail piece to get now! ahhhhh! i just want to keg without having to open the door to pour!!

 

[Glynn]

According to my wife it does

 

[Roadie]

According to my wife it does

This is the road I started to go down.

 

[brewguyver]

This is the road I started to go down.

Damn, beat me to it.

I think if the shank is long enough, then it's good. From a practical standpoint you don't want it sticking too far out one side or the other - it gets annoying.

I'd go stainless if your planning to keep the kegorator for a while. I haven't had any problems with chrome, but it irks me for some unknown reason.

 

[JRems]

The other part you need to remember is you need about 3/4" for the beer nut to attach the tailpiece. So while the shank length might be 4.25" you only have about 3.5" of thread left.

 

[JuanMoore]

The other part you need to remember is you need about 3/4" for the beer nut to attach the tailpiece. So while the shank length might be 4.25" you only have about 3.5" of thread left.

Yep, and you need room for the shank nut too. For a 2.5" thick door, the shank really needs to be a minimum of ~3.5" long.

And FWIW a longer shank has more thermal mass inside the fridge, which helps keep the faucets cold and prevent a foamy first pour of every drinking session.