Diy simple Dspr320 control box.

[Bobby_M]

No problem with that setup. The case is aluminum so it should convey the heat to the heat sink pretty well, especially with a little thermal paste on both sides of the enclosure. I've built in that same box a few times.

The overshoot MIGHT be a setting (OSC) in the menu but that would be best verified by just a water test. If it doesn't overshoot with just water then the OSC setting is correct. In that case, the issue really just is the fact that you're not recirculating/whirlpooling and/or the temperature probe is not really in an ideal spot. Where did you mount the probe?

 

[sweets17]

No problem with that setup. The case is aluminum so it should convey the heat to the heat sink pretty well, especially with a little thermal paste on both sides of the enclosure. I've built in that same box a few times.

The overshoot MIGHT be a setting (OSC) in the menu but that would be best verified by just a water test. If it doesn't overshoot with just water then the OSC setting is correct. In that case, the issue really just is the fact that you're not recirculating/whirlpooling and/or the temperature probe is not really in an ideal spot. Where did you mount the probe?

Rog, yeah I assumed it was because of no recirc. I didn't let it "mash" during the 9 gallon water test, but it reached all the proper numbers just fine.

Element is at 2 o clock and 2" probe is at 1 o clock.

 

[sbro]

Nice Job!
The outlet on top probably should have been in the back to protect it more from any splashing but you may have been full on the back.
Looks like you got rid of the pid switch and that comes on with the main switch.
If you don't intend to use a pump, what is the outlet for? A steam condensing pump?

 

[sweets17]

Nice Job!
The outlet on top probably should have been in the back to protect it more from any splashing but you may have been full on the back.
Looks like you got rid of the pid switch and that comes on with the main switch.
If you don't intend to use a pump, what is the outlet for? A steam condensing pump?

Hey thanks.

Yeah probs should have. The dspr is switched. I moved the switch to the rear, due to dimension issues on my part.

I kept the outlet for future proofing just in case. Figured it's easier to install now and pay the few bucks.

 

[Bobby_M]

Rog, yeah I assumed it was because of no recirc. I didn't let it "mash" during the 9 gallon water test, but it reached all the proper numbers just fine.

Element is at 2 o clock and 2" probe is at 1 o clock.

Both sit UNDER the bag though right? Even so, without any movement at all, the element is going to make a bunch of heat and by the time it makes its way over to the probe, it will be slightly overheated.

You can probably leave the heat on during the mash but I would set the mOUT setting in the back end menu to like 5% while just holding the mash. It sort of nerfs the element so it can't make rapid changes.

What I really think is that the ultimate is keeping things moving via pump so that the controller can really do its thing. Otherwise, you could have just gone with the DSPR120.

 

[sweets17]

Both sit UNDER the bag though right? Even so, without any movement at all, the element is going to make a bunch of heat and by the time it makes its way over to the probe, it will be slightly overheated.

You can probably leave the heat on during the mash but I would set the mOUT setting in the back end menu to like 5% while just holding the mash. It sort of nerfs the element so it can't make rapid changes.

What I really think is that the ultimate is keeping things moving via pump so that the controller can really do its thing. Otherwise, you could have just gone with the DSPR120.

Yes both are under the bag and inline with one another. I'll mess around with that setting and see how it goes.

It's nice to have the option if I decide to go that route. Pumps just seem like a pita to clean and more junk to carry around.

I can currently fit all the equipment in the kettle. Idk why I made that a goal but it is lmao.

 

[Bobby_M]

A pump is rather self cleaning because you just pump some cleaning solution from the kettle and back into the kettle. I use a topsflo TD5 pump and I can imagine I could fit 10 of them inside my kettle. Compact enough to QD directly onto your drain.

 

[sweets17]

A pump is rather self cleaning because you just pump some cleaning solution from the kettle and back into the kettle. I use a topsflo TD5 pump and I can imagine I could fit 10 of them inside my kettle. Compact enough to QD directly onto your drain.

View attachment 828328

That is a cute little guy. I like how you've got it directly mounted.

What would you say are the advantages of a pump, effeciency? Also good to know they're easy to maintain.

 

[Bobby_M]

My primary reasons for using a pump:

1. Temp stability. I route the output to both a whirlpooling port under the bag to keep the heating zone constantly mixed. No operational over or undershoot of temps that way. I also split off and put about 10-20% of that flow back on top of the grain through the lid. That keeps the top end of mash at the same temp, give or take 1F. The top end is where most of the heat is lost naturally.

2. Whirlpooling for faster chilling. I drop my immersion coil in and the whirlpooling action means I don't have to stand there and stir. It also let's me put my lid mostly on once the wort is below 140F to keep contaminant like grain dust from settling in.

3. Whirlpooling to pack trub in the center of the kettle. This could be achieved by stirring to be honest, but I have the pump and it was already whirlpooling so I just take the chiller coil out and let it do its thing for 2 minutes.

4. I still use small plastic carboys so I can easily gravity drain the finished wort into them. If I did have conicals several feet away, I'd likely use the pump to move the wort there. May or may not apply to you.