mvanwie
Well-Known Member
Apparently, at lab-grade freezer temperatures (-22F/-30C), yeast in a glycol solution will survive almost indefinitely. At normal freezer temperatures (-10F to 5F), the expectations I've seen are anywhere from 3-10 years, which presumably depends upon the storage temperature. I'm interested in starting a yeast farming operation (for my own purposes, not commercially), and like most things I do, I'm going for complete overkill (just to see if I can). So I was hoping to hit something as close to lab-grade as I could with materials I have lying around (or can pick up cheap), but since my HVAC knowledge is quite limited, I'm looking for some advice. Basically, the plan is to take an old mini-fridge and simply remove the chamber, leaving the refrigerant loop (compressor, condenser, evaporator) behind and completely intact. I would then build a new chamber around the refrigerant loop that would 1) open to the top, 2) be highly insulated, and 3) be liquid-tight. The chamber would be filled with denatured alcohol and the evaporator would be submersed into the liquid. Vials of yeast in glycol would then be stored also by submersion in the liquid.
I'm wondering what I'm overlooking with the refrigeration operation/theory above, specifically:
1) Is the theoretical "minimum" temperature of the evaporator the boiling point of R-134a (or other refrigerant) adjusted according to the low side pressure?
2) Does the ambient temperature affect the pressure inside the evaporator or is temperature strictly the result of the pressure?
3) Could you refrigerate to the point where low side pressure became negative and thus lower the evaporating temperature of the refrigerant?
Since R-134a boils at -15F/-26C, I was thinking it should be possible to at least get the alcohol bath down to -4F/-20C if I insulate the **** out of it, which I'm hoping would keep my yeast alive as long as I plan to be home-brewing.
Any input is appreciated.
I'm wondering what I'm overlooking with the refrigeration operation/theory above, specifically:
1) Is the theoretical "minimum" temperature of the evaporator the boiling point of R-134a (or other refrigerant) adjusted according to the low side pressure?
2) Does the ambient temperature affect the pressure inside the evaporator or is temperature strictly the result of the pressure?
3) Could you refrigerate to the point where low side pressure became negative and thus lower the evaporating temperature of the refrigerant?
Since R-134a boils at -15F/-26C, I was thinking it should be possible to at least get the alcohol bath down to -4F/-20C if I insulate the **** out of it, which I'm hoping would keep my yeast alive as long as I plan to be home-brewing.
Any input is appreciated.