DIN Rail Questions

[underdog378]

I'm currently in the process of building a control panel for a 20A 120v RIMS system. I have the wiring diagram part figured out, but am having some issues with the actual wiring itself.

The door panel was fine, I used crimp spade terminals for the connections there. The inner panel I went with a DIN rail with DIN mounted terminal blocks and DIN mounted contactors. I bought the terminal block kit from Auber ( http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=46&products_id=445 ).

My problem is with the ferrules. I don't have a ferrule crimper, and my regular wire crimpers are useless for a ferrule. I'm using stranded wire (12 gauge main power in, 14 gauge everything else, fused).

Going through other control panel builds I've seen on the forums, I haven't found any other pictures of people using ferrules at all, they all appear to be tightening down on bare wire.

Is tightening on the bare wire ok? Or do I need to go buy a ferrule crimper to do it the right way. Like I said, the reason I ask is because the control panel builds I see (including ebrewsupply) don't seem to be using any ferrules.

Thanks, and I'm going to post a new thread once I get this build all finished up!

 

[itsnotrequired]

look at the printing on the device you are trying to terminate to, it will indicate if it is acceptable for use with stranded conductors. if not, you will need ferrules to use the device in accordance with its listing. solid conductors are typically okay without ferrules.

of course, folks stick stranded conductors in terminations that they are not meant for all the time. is it a problem? not unless it becomes one...

 

[underdog378]

look at the printing on the device you are trying to terminate to, it will indicate if it is acceptable for use with stranded conductors. if not, you will need ferrules to use the device in accordance with its listing. solid conductors are typically okay without ferrules.

of course, folks stick stranded conductors in terminations that they are not meant for all the time. is it a problem? not unless it becomes one...

Here's the spec sheet that I found based on what was written on the side of the terminal block. http://www.dinkle.com/upfiles/proter21338192940.pdf

I'm not sure what a lot of that means (Besides the actual wire size and amperages)

 

[itsnotrequired]

that terminal block is acceptable for use with stranded conductors so you can choose to omit the ferrules if you would like.

 

[underdog378]

that terminal block is acceptable for use with stranded conductors so you can choose to omit the ferrules if you would like.

Thanks I really appreciate it. May I ask what it is that's listed that show that? Just so I know for future reference.

 

[itsnotrequired]

Thanks I really appreciate it. May I ask what it is that's listed that show that? Just so I know for future reference.

the fact that it even mentions stranded indicates it is acceptable for use.

 

[RickCask]

I found that many terminal blocks would not hold stranded wire conductors very well. And since I still haven't got a special ferrel crimper I crimp these with wide jaw pliers.
I crimp the ferrel with wire in it straight on (horizontal). Not perpendicular like you would using a normal crimper.
I differently think using ferrels is better as before when I opened my control cabinet door sometimes wires would be pulled out of the terminals.
Yes it would be nice to have the proper ferrel crimpers also.

 

[Trillium]

Do not tighten to bare stranded wire. You are only achieving 50% contact. Buy the ferrules made for the din rail components. They achieve 100% contact. The ferrule crimpers are not expensive.

 

[Nimbus3000]

I just completed a 50 amp panel using DIN rail components. All of my research found that you should not use stranded wire without ferrules. It is OK to use solid wire with DIN components. I purchased a Knipex 97 71 180 crimping tool through Amazon for about $30. It is good for 23 - 5 AWG wire. The indications are in mm but it is easy to convert over to AWG. There is a slight difference, but it is only about 1 to 2 mm. If you try to tighten stranded wire into a DIN component it will eventually work loose. I have attached a picture of the back plane in the panel I constructed.

 

[itsnotrequired]

i didn't want to give the impression that earlier that stranded wire shouldn't be crimped if it is okay to use with the terminal. there are many advantages to using ferrules, feel free to use them if you desire. but they are not required. in my line of work, it is more common to see industrial control panels built without ferrules than with them. and these are giant 200 or 400 amp panels. of course, the large power conductors use lugs and the appropriate mechanical lugs but essentially all of the smaller control wire (#14) is wired without ferrules.

and none of this has anything to do with the component being mounted to din rail. all din rail is is a mounting mechanical mounting method for devices. the same concerns about stranded vs solid conductor terminations exist fof non-din rail mounted components.

 

[underdog378]

Thanks all. For my peace of mind I'm going to go ahead and pick up a crimper and use the ferrules. For as much as I've spent on this project so far another $30 isn't going to kill me.

 

[underdog378]

Just as a final update. Picked up a ferrule crimper for $18 on Amazon and finished up the wiring. Not very pretty wiring job I know, but it works, and I definitely felt better using the ferrules over bare wire. Seemed much more secure. Can't wait to play with this thing.