Debating on kegging.

[bracconiere]

I have a 4 line gas manifold and after a bad line connection cost me a full 20# tank several years ago I now almost always keep the gas off unless force carbonating and only re-gas kegs periodically while I'm watching.

Kegging is great and an easy way to fill a growler or even bottles if you want portability.

LEAKS! when i was first kegging i went through a 20#'er every other month till i started vaselining up my posts!

I got one leak couple years ago, then i started keeping my co2 tank on a little analog bathroom scale to 'keep an eye on it'....

And +1 Kegging is great!

 

[hezagenius]

I'll throw in a recommendation to use MFL connections. Makes swapping out kegs and cleaning disconnects much easier. A barbed disconnect plugs directly into the beverage and air tubing. The MFL disconnect is threaded and screws into a swivel nut x barb that goes into the tubing. Just google them and you will see what they are. If you ever want to clean your disconnects, MFL connections will make that much easier.

 

[Redpappy]

I'll throw in a recommendation to use MFL connections. Makes swapping out kegs and cleaning disconnects much easier. A barbed disconnect plugs directly into the beverage and air tubing. The MFL disconnect is threaded and screws into a swivel nut x barb that goes into the tubing. Just google them and you will see what they are. If you ever want to clean your disconnects, MFL connections will make that much easier.

MFL????? If you don’t mind, please explain.

 

[hezagenius]

@Redpappy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075YPM7MN/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

This link shows both barbed and MFL ball lock disconnects. The barbed ones push right into the tubing. So if you want to clean them or change them, you have to pull them out of the tubing (not always easy). The MFL ones require another piece (actual 2 pieces) that is threaded on one end and barbed on the other. The disconnect threads into the threaded end and the barbed end pushes into the tubing. It makes cleaning the disconnect easier and if you want to switch between homebrew and commercial kegs you can do that easily.

 

[mongoose33]

@Redpappy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075YPM7MN/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

This link shows both barbed and MFL ball lock disconnects. The barbed ones push right into the tubing. So if you want to clean them or change them, you have to pull them out of the tubing (not always easy). The MFL ones require another piece (actual 2 pieces) that is threaded on one end and barbed on the other. The disconnect threads into the threaded end and the barbed end pushes into the tubing. It makes cleaning the disconnect easier and if you want to switch between homebrew and commercial kegs you can do that easily.

@Redpappy, you should do what @hezagenius suggests, i.e., MFL connections. And just to save you a little frustration after you get the swivel nuts, the way you push them into the tubing is attach the swivel nut to the QD, then insert the barb of the swivel nut into the tubing. It can be easier to do that if you dip the tubing into boiling or very hot water for just a moment before inserting the barb into the tubing.

And when you insert the barb into the tubing, leave 1/8" of space between the swivel nut and the tubing. When you tighten down the clamp, it'll squeeze the tubing forward, and you don't want the tubing in contact w/ the nut, as then you can't...well....swivel it.

 

[Redpappy]

With just starting out, I know I'm only going to buy a few items. I do plan to expand, so I want to purchase things wisely. I believe the most that I will have in a keezer will be 4 ( 3 beers and 1 cider). For starting out I will be using a fridge with 2 kegs. Here is the things that I believe I will need and if i could get suggestions on parts or items that I missed i would appreciate it.

2 ball lock kegs with picnic taps
gas line ( would 20 feet be sufficient or should i get more)
10# co2 tank ( i noticed there are steal and aluminum tanks, which is better)
MFL connectors
regulator ( i have not idea, any suggestions? but thinking i need a dual, one set for serving and one set for carbing)
extra set of seals ( for back up)

 

[schematix]

Start by buying a pallet of 1/6 barrel sanke kegs. You won’t regret you went balls deep right from the start.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Start by buying a pallet of 1/6 barrel sanke kegs. You won’t regret you went balls deep right from the start.

Been gone a while. Has the forum finally come around to using sanke Kegs. I couldnt convince anyone they were better a year or two ago.

 

[mongoose33]

Been gone a while. Has the forum finally come around to using sanke Kegs. I couldnt convince anyone they were better a year or two ago.

No, Schematix is only the second person I've seen recommend them. If it's any consolation, I've actually looked into them a little bit. Not enough to do anything, though.

 

[schematix]

Corny kegs became the de facto home brew keg a long time ago because they made a lot sense from a financial perspective and they were widely available because coca cola and pepsi were makign the move to syrup in a box. Home brewers are typically a frugal and lazy bunch so no shock they took the cheap and easy route.

There was a time when they could be had for $10-20 each. At the same time a real 1/6 sanke keg would not only have been hard to procure (interwebs commerce not so great in the 1980s and 1990s) and would have been about $200 a piece. These days with so much better access, 1/6 sanke are closer to $120/ea if you buy a few. Basically the same price as a new corny.

If starting anew i'd say sanke is the way to go. But if you're already invested in cornies its a tough sell to switch.

Corny Kegs
Pros

• Easy to buy due to availability
• Used kegs are cheap, brand new not that expensive either
• Many sizes available

Cons

• Not sanitary
• Can't handle any vacuum
• Relatively high gasket surface area

Sanke Kegs
Pros

• Sanitary design
• Can withstand vacuum
• Relatively small gasket surface area
• Many sizes available, including some that are quite large (1/2 BBL)

Cons

• Parts not quite as common in LHBS
• Market for used 1/6 BBL (5 gal) not robust
• Harder to clean

 

[Transamguy77]

So I didn’t get to choose my kit my wife surprised me with a 2 tap kit from beverage factory, aside from the taps it was a decent starter kit. That was over 5 years ago and it was in the 350 range. Was a nice complete kit all I had to do was go fill the tank.

I had (but didn’t know it at the time) over 30 cases of bottles in my basement, some filled most empty but my plan was to keg 5 gallons and bottle 5 gallons of my 10 gallon batches. I have never bottled a batch of beer since and I actually bought more kegs to age beer in. If I need bottles I just go buy some beer or ask friends for their empty’s.

I have a 3 tap kegerator and once I worked the bugs out it’s so enjoyable to have.