Danby DAR125SLDD Kegerator Build

[thehopbandit]

The side mounts can be removed, it's just more work b/c you will have to cut them out and then seal the cuts to protect in insulation. I've seen other builds on here where people have done that. I did not go that route because mine fit (just barely). I literal have to squeeze the left keg in about 1" to get the door to shut.

Hmm, I've been looking at some pictures of the Danby fridge models online and are you sure that one you were referring to is actually a DAR125SLDD and not a DAR044A2SLDD?

The DAR044A2SLDD model mounts on the side and all the pictures of the DAR125SLDD seem to still show mounting in the back.

 

[squash1978]

Hmm, I've been looking at some pictures of the Danby fridge models online and are you sure that one you were referring to is actually a DAR125SLDD and not a DAR044A2SLDD?

The DAR044A2SLDD model mounts on the side and all the pictures of the DAR125SLDD seem to still show mounting in the back.

You're right. I went back and checked my model and it's actually the DAR044A2SLDD. Sorry, my bad.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

[thehopbandit]

You're right. I went back and checked my model and it's actually the DAR044A2SLDD. Sorry, my bad.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

Cool! Thanks for checking that!

 

[kwatts]

I just finished a front tap Conversion. Since there were folks asking about the amount of space at the top, here are some photos to shot what mine looks like:

 

[YeastMode]

I want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. I used the information to build my Danby dar125sldd kegerator. The entire process only took a few hours of combined time and was fairly easy as a result of all the great tips and explanations. A specific thanks to BansheeRider for showing how to cut the door in specific places in order to avoid having to rebuild the entire door and to Squash1978 for posting measurements (which were perfectly accurate). The measurements saved me at least a couple hours of measuring and provided confidence that I was not going to drill into some refrigeration line or electric component. Now if I could only figure out a way to get that silly energy star decal removed in an easy way.

 

[Monty91]

I built this kegerator about a month ago and love having my homebrew on tap!

Just wondering, has anyone had problems with a relatively loud bump/popping noise coming from the fridge? It's kind of hard to describe but almost sounds like a sheet of metal wobbling or something. It happens every half hour or so but doesn't seem to correlate to the compressor turning on/off.

 

[BansheeRider]

I want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. I used the information to build my Danby dar125sldd kegerator. The entire process only took a few hours of combined time and was fairly easy as a result of all the great tips and explanations. A specific thanks to BansheeRider for showing how to cut the door in specific places in order to avoid having to rebuild the entire door and to Squash1978 for posting measurements (which were perfectly accurate). The measurements saved me at least a couple hours of measuring and provided confidence that I was not going to drill into some refrigeration line or electric component. Now if I could only figure out a way to get that silly energy star decal removed in an easy way.

Looks great!!

 

[YeastMode]

I built this kegerator about a month ago and love having my homebrew on tap!

Just wondering, has anyone had problems with a relatively loud bump/popping noise coming from the fridge? It's kind of hard to describe but almost sounds like a sheet of metal wobbling or something. It happens every half hour or so but doesn't seem to correlate to the compressor turning on/off.

I have not noticed a sound like the one you described. I have noticed however that the refrigerator is a bit loud in general and when running, it sounds like there is liquid bubbling in the lines. I originally thought this was a problem, but I spoke with Danby directly and they said it was normal operation. I check two other Danby units and they sounded the same, which kinda sucks.

I would suggest calling Danby and asking them. They were very helpful and polite when I spoke with them. I will keep an ear out to see if mine makes the same noise.

 

[Monty91]

I have not noticed a sound like the one you described. I have noticed however that the refrigerator is a bit loud in general and when running, it sounds like there is liquid bubbling in the lines. I originally thought this was a problem, but I spoke with Danby directly and they said it was normal operation. I check two other Danby units and they sounded the same, which kinda sucks.

I would suggest calling Danby and asking them. They were very helpful and polite when I spoke with them. I will keep an ear out to see if mine makes the same noise.

It's VERY noticeable and actually pretty loud. I'll try giving Danby a call.

 

[Gavin C]

4. Drill holes to mount your tower. I used large fender washers coupled with regular washers on my mounting hardware. The screws in the kit I ordered were to short so I bought some longer ones at Home Depot.

Did a similar build myself on a Danby. For mounting the tower I didn't bring the mounting screws through the interior wall of the fridge. The threads bit into the metal of the fridge. Shortened the mounting screws with a Dremmel. The tower is rock solid.

Great post thanks for sharing it. Love the pictures.

 

[YeastMode]

For some inexplicable reason, I cannot seem to figure out how to set a reasonable temperature with my new build, and I am wondering if anyone had this issue. I turn the little doohickey about 3/4 of the way and the temperature (by way of thermometer) reads around 44-46. I turn it what I believe to be a millimeter to the right and the temp plummets to 32 or below and bad things happen, not to mention that the chill plate freezes and the fridge runs what seems to be forever. The only logical explanation I have is that based on the thermal mass in the unit and the fact that I am using a (temporary) steel CO2 tank. I have hooked up a Johnson A419 digital controller because why not spend more money, but I was just wondering if anyone had this experience or another solution.

Aside from that, I would like to say that after a week of operation, the copper pipe (1 in.) works great, it keeps the tower surprisingly cold, and with my "stock" 5' beer lines, the beer comes out cold and without foaming issues. The entire thing is awesome.

 

[punkrawkgeek]

Thanks for all the great info. I am in the midst of converting my fridge. Just using a picnic tap for now. Gotta wait for next payday. Thank goodness it is a three pay day month! This is mine so far...
Sorry pic is sideways.

 

[Newsman]

Hey, all... I have a GE SMR04DASACS. I removed the gasket and removed the plastic door cover, but now that I've got some rigid foam insulation on there, I can't seem to find what I did with the gasket. Any suggestions on where to find a replacement? Even GE's website doesn't seem to list a part number for the gasket. This is one of the gaskets that use screws rather than just going into a slot in the door.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

How about from G E ?

Or here:

http://www.foxatlanta.com/

 

[Newsman]

How about from G E ?

Or here:

http://www.foxatlanta.com/

Looked on GE's website. They don't list a part number for this. I'll check out Fox Appliance Parts.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Looked on GE's website. They don't list a part number for this. I'll check out Fox Appliance Parts.

I'm here for ya'............


Parts Call Center
404 363 3313 ~ 800 342 5369
[email protected]

 

[YeastMode]

At the risk of stating the obvious, do you think you can scavenge one from another appliance at a junk yard or a fridge that someone is tossing? Even if it is the wrong size/shape, I bet you can make it work.

 

[Newsman]

At the risk of stating the obvious, do you think you can scavenge one from another appliance at a junk yard or a fridge that someone is tossing? Even if it is the wrong size/shape, I bet you can make it work.

May have to. I messaged the folks Stealth suggested and they said GE doesn't make a separate gasket for that fridge. I suspect just about any fridge the right size might work. Going to have to look into that.

 

[YeastMode]

May have to. I messaged the folks Stealth suggested and they said GE doesn't make a separate gasket for that fridge. I suspect just about any fridge the right size might work. Going to have to look into that.

I don't think there is much too it, just a magnet in a plastic housing. I would try to get one from a full size fridge and then use the two long sides, cut your corners in, and then glue the two (total of 4) ends together. At least that way, you will avoid having the joints in the corner and you will be able to glue the ends together flat.

 

[simplecj]

I just completed my Kegerator build. I've posted a fairly detailed walk-through on my personal blog. This thread helped me a ton, thanks guys!

Walkthrough

Two Pin-Lock Kegs hanging out together!

So, I just purchased two pin lock keg kits and started researching what currently available mini fridges will fit two pin locks. Got excited when I found this thread since everyone else recommends the 440BL which seems to not be available anywhere now. Then I was bummed when the OP stated that there was no way you could fit two pin locks in the 125SLDD, but you seem to have proven him wrong about that. I wonder what the difference was? Maybe just trimming off those lower shelf ridges?

Other part that still sucks is that it seems the price on this unit has gone up. Walmart has it listed for $229. Everything cheaper has the freezer panel that you have to bend out of the way, don't want to risk it, but was really hoping to find something good for closer to $150.

I almost bought a complete Kegco Dual Kegerator system for $1000 but just couldn't bring myself to spend that much. Going the cheaper route and converting my own in the hopes of saving a few hundred dollars. I have plenty of tools out in my workshop and a degree in mechanical engineering, so this shouldn't be that difficult...

 

[mtnagel]

You can do it! It's not difficult, but doing everything did take me longer than I thought it would. But it did save me $100's.

Anyway, I did get two pin locks in the DAR440BL if you can find that one. I did have to trim the shelf supports too.

 

[simplecj]

I'm torn though, I like working on stuff and building my own things, but my wife actually came home and said she decided I could buy the $1000 setup from Kegco that I was looking at and just consider it my birthday/Christmas present. I had just paid $360 for the two keg kits off ebay though so I figured I'd just modify and save some money anyways. Now I'm thinking about getting the smaller Kegco kegerator model K199B-2 that can fit up to a full sized keg or two pin locks comfortably.

Price Comparison:
$400 - Danby 125SDDL w/ Two faucet SS tower with PC Perlicks and 12x5 drip tray and modification materials, plus a good day's worth of labor

$620 - Kegco K199B-2 w/ Two faucet SS tower with SS Perlicks, 12x5 SS drip tray, ready to assemble and use... (That price includes 20% off sale price plus $99 freight)
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/kegerators/dualkegerator/Kegco_K199B-2.shtml

... I mean, I could just skip the work it would take to modify the Danby and use that time to transfer my 27 gallons of hard cider I have in the works and maybe start up that Belgian Dubbel kit I've been sitting on... it is my birthday/Christmas present right?? lol...

still a lot of money though...

 

[sikkingj]

Could you fit three pin lock kegs in the Kegg setup?


Sent from the window of an airplane...

 

[sikkingj]

I see they offer a three faucet version, http://www.kegco.com/kegerators/triple_faucet_kegerators/MPK309B-3HB.shtml. Basically it looks like the hump is smaller in this version...


Sent from the window of an airplane...

 

[simplecj]

I am a spoiled boy! My wife just ordered the 309B-2 ($790 shipped). Dual tap, built in digital thermostat and circulating fan. Can easily fit 3 pin locks or full size keg with some room to spare. Has some stellar reviews, very excited!
:rockin::rockin:
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/kegerators/dualkegerator/Kegco_K309B-2_dual_faucet_kegerator.html

The 199 model will only fit two pin locks, the 203/309 models fit three pin locks. The 209/309 versions have a smaller hump for the CO2 tank in one corner (instead of all the way across), and come with a tank holder already attached over the hump, AND the fridge itself is actually a little larger than the 199. They also have a flush molded plastic drain tray on top, while the 199 does not. All three models are available with 1-3 taps and multiple customizable options depending on what you want with it.

The three tap version would add about another $100 with the SS perlick taps. For how much I drink, I think two will be plenty, costs a little less and is less to maintain. I can use the extra space for chilling beer glasses or another keg. It also converts to a regular refrigerator for when you don't have any kegs to tap...

 

[sikkingj]

Three taps is nice, it allows a variety of beers and if you go with two and want to add a third tap later your screwed. I'm in the later camp, want a third tap and am out if luck...


Sent from the window of an airplane...

 

[simplecj]

Not really out of luck, I could always buy the three tap tower later and sell the two tap version on ebay if I decide I want to... Swapping them out shouldn't be that difficult either, they even show the tower removed when you want to use it as a regular refrigerator. I'm guessing they might even include a cap for the tower hole. Not to mention I usually only do 2-3 batches twice a year (spring/fall). I will still probably bottle some so that I have bottles ready to take with me. Can't have all my brew stuck at home... or I could chill a third keg in it before taking it somewhere to use with my picnic tap...

Edit: Was just reading some reviews that said the triple taps are too close together to use most of the larger custom tap handles with them. Just a thought if you like custom handles.

Also, sorry if I sort of hijacked this thread. Last night I was convinced I was going to have to do the Danby conversion but thanks to my wife making some extra money at work, I was able to go with the nicer Kegco system. I feel the extra expense is going to be well worth it based on the reviews and the fact I don't have to do any hard work to set it up. If you can afford it, I recommend getting a Kegco. I read a few comments on the Kegco from people saying they too are glad they chose to fork out the extra money instead of hacking a Danby.

 

[Newsman]

Semi-on topic here... I was at a local discount appliance reseller here locally the other day. They had several Danby Kegerators. All you had to do was install the tower -- the hole was already cut out and everything. The "freezer" plate had already been bent down at the factory and was flush against the back wall. Pretty sweet! Unfortunately they said they weren't for sale...didn't work. Of course, I think it may have been a partial misunderstanding as I don't speak fluent Spanish and the store folks don't speak very good English.

 

[mtnagel]

That's bizarre. Why did they have them if they we're for sale and didn't work? Cutting the hole was the hardest part for me, but I used a wood hole saw. Once I switched the metal cutting blade in a jigsaw, it was much easier.

 

[PocketWater]

Just did this build and it was real easy due to the info on this thread. Thanks to all who contributed, it was nice to have all this knowledge while standing in front of my shiny brand new fridge with a hole saw, dremel and utility knife.

I did add one small thing which may help others. I went with the 1" copper pipe up into the tower to keep the lines cool, but wasn't confident that it would stay put over time. So I bought a coupler with no stop, slid it up the pipe and soldered it in place so that it rests on top of the plastic top of the fridge which is sitting on the plywood I sandwiched in there. Feels solid.