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American Pale Ale Da Yooper's House Pale Ale

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I would call them and take it back, if it was your idea (they still should have questioned you) you would have to add 20lb of base, mix it well and divide it by 3 to come close to what the author intended. Or you can make it and let us know what 30% crystal is like in a pale, I have no clue what it would be like.
I have been drinking, so my math is most likely flawed.


30% crystal would be sweet, and high in finished gravity.

And you'd probably need an insulin shot.

But if you can mash really, really low and long, and add some sugar to dry it out.. Add some extra hops to balance the sweetness, I think you can make it work.
 
FATC1TY said:
30% crystal would be sweet, and high in finished gravity.

And you'd probably need an insulin shot.

But if you can mash really, really low and long, and add some sugar to dry it out.. Add some extra hops to balance the sweetness, I think you can make it work.

+1 some of my worse, and a whole lot of my best, beers have come from me messing up one or more items and just making adjustments on the fly and seeing what you can do with what you have.

Will you make the precise beer you were after? Nope. Will you make beer? Yep. And if you take this as a learning opportunity, a chance to take what you have on hand and manipulate your process to get closer to what you were targeting, I can guarantee it will make you a better brewer.

Everything FATC1TY says above will help you account for the additional unfermentables in your grain bill. The only additional things i can think you might want to consider would be your yeast choice, pitch rate and aeration. Not sure what you're using for yeast. But I would pick a high attenuator and use a yeast calculator an starter if necessary to ensure you're pitching a sufficient amount of healthy yeast into a well aerated wort. You want to squeeze every potential percentage point of attenuation out of your yeast.

And it stands to reason that you'll want to avoid any yeast that is billed as "malty" or "leaves residual sweetness"
 
BTW, I would just save the cara for another batch. You can sub it with another crystal you plan to use. Sure, that would be different, but that would give you a way to use it, and you likely wouldn't be able to tell much. 3 lbs of crystal in a batch is going to be sweet, no matter what you do.
 
Yea i just looked it up. I wish I knew that earlier I cut the recipe down to 10lb so its 2lb caravienna in place of 3lb vienna. What is that going to do to the taste slightly sweeter?

Well, it's a shame because caravienna is not even close to Vienna malt. Vienna malt is a nice malty base malt. Caravienna is basically crystal 20L. Not even close to the same thing, and not at all a sub. I'd definitely talk to them about this- it'd be like subbing sugar for tomato sauce in a spaghetti sauce recipe! Not at all good.

If you already brewed it, you can expect a sweet American amber that is too sweet in the finish.
 
Well, it's a shame because caravienna is not even close to Vienna malt. Vienna malt is a nice malty base malt. Caravienna is basically crystal 20L. Not even close to the same thing, and not at all a sub. I'd definitely talk to them about this- it'd be like subbing sugar for tomato sauce in a spaghetti sauce recipe! Not at all good.

If you already brewed it, you can expect a sweet American amber that is too sweet in the finish.

Yea i wish i knew earlier but i cant do anything about it now they are closed until Tuesday and all the malt was milled together. I will be way out of style guidelines but ill still have beer. Don't worry Yooper ill RDWHAHB and try again with the correct ingredients.

BTW I feel like a complete idiot!!!!!
 
Yea i wish i knew earlier but i cant do anything about it now they are closed until Tuesday and all the malt was milled together. I will be way out of style guidelines but ill still have beer. Don't worry Yooper ill RDWHAHB and try again with the correct ingredients.

BTW I feel like a complete idiot!!!!!

I know this may not be the best option, but you could split the entire grain bill for another batch. You could take the grain and cut it in half, and replace half the grain with base malt. You'd still be 1.5 times the crystal, but that would be far less noticeable. You could also do it twice and be dead on. Granted, you would need to mill the new base malt, but you'd have enough grain for more brewing immediately behind it. You could also switch this over to a much more bitter IPA. An IPA would cover the extra sweetness better.

Another option would be to brew another identical batch right behind it, but leave the cara out. Once they both finish fementing, rack equal parts into the bottling bucket, and then bottle it out.

Sorry to suggest a ton more work (but more beer :) ).


Edit: It looks like others have suggested the above, too. I didn't see that when I posted. Nonetheless, that's an option.
 
20130113_174103.jpg

Well it ended up more of an amber then a pale ale (even though the pic looks brown). I split the batch with a friend it was my first time using my turkey fryer burner and keggel boiled off about 2 gallons. Both ended up with 2 gallons each in the fermenter. The OG was 1.070.

Although it wasn't under the most ideal circumstances I learned a lot about grain and my system. Thanks again to everyone who helped out. I'm already looking forward to brewing this with the correct ingredients.
 
I just picked up the stuff to make a partial mash of this on Saturday, and a couple extra better bottles as they were bogo.
I am going to use
3lb vienna
2lb munich
1/2lb each of caramel 20 and 60L
3lb light muntons dme

us-05
I am going to follow the original hop sched. in the first post.
This will be only my second brew outside of the Mr. Beer.
I am already $300 deep in equipment and ingredients and my first batch isnt even done fermenting.
 
Well it is in the fermenter ended up at 1.055, I'm probably almost a quart low on water though in the fermenter. Will update with results asap. I substituted .5 oz here there for centennial while hopping.
 
Hi,
I pulled a 9 day old sample of this and it was at 1.015, started at 1.052
Not sure if it will get much lower but I will let it sit in the primary for another 5-7 days and see.
The sample was great...I mean really great.

I tweaked the recipe based on what I had around -
4# 2 row
6# Vienna
2# Munich
.5# C40 and C80
Used Cascades and 5 minute addition of Williamette for 38 IBU
Pacman Yeast

thanks Kevin

This is a a great beer -
Next time I will try to up the IBU to 40-42 if I have enough hops but as is... it is still great as is and perfectly balanced.

8427378178_c85606ec39_z.jpg


thanks Kevin
 
I wanted to brew this up tomorrow but I haven't made a starter. I have the grain for a 6 gallon batch and a packet of nottingham. I've brewed with nottingham before with no starter and things went fine....but those were all 5 gallon batches. I also have a vial of English ale yeast on hand. The nearest LHBS is 40 miles away and I'd hate to go there if not needed. I'm debating on pitching both yeasts I have together.
 
Vigo_Carpathian said:
I wanted to brew this up tomorrow but I haven't made a starter. I have the grain for a 6 gallon batch and a packet of nottingham. I've brewed with nottingham before with no starter and things went fine....but those were all 5 gallon batches. I also have a vial of English ale yeast on hand. The nearest LHBS is 40 miles away and I'd hate to go there if not needed. I'm debating on pitching both yeasts I have together.

Notty will be fine for 6 gallons. I like to keep notty down in the lower sixties.
 
With us-05 I am down to 1.010 after 8 days at 66* and it is going to be veeerrry drinkable.
 
Has anyone brewed this with centennial in place of cascade?
I used some centennial recently. Was just trying to get rid of some hops in the fridge, so I did:

.75 oz Columbus @ 60
.25 oz Columbus @ 10
.5 oz Centennial @ 5
.5 oz Centennial @ flameout

Although I'm still dryhopping with an oz of Cascade. I'll let you know how it turns out!
 
It'll work for most any hop that you like honestly.

The grist is really good, and I made it a while back with just Falconers Flight 7C's and it was great.
 
So I just bought the ingredients, I e got London ale and English ale yeast both white labs, I know neither is preferable but it is what I have. What would you recommend? I like my beers more dry than sweet.
 
I just took a hydro sample and dry hopped, smells and tastes amazing, threw in an oz of centennial pellets. 1.009 tg
I was thinking about thieving another pint but i did that with my last batch and ended up way short of 2 cases LOL
 
I searched the thread and didn't see any mention of using Pacman yeast???

Yooper, I think your a fan of Pacman, you use it in your 60min clone I think...

I jus got a small culture going from some dead guy and was thinking of making your recipe with some Pacman
 
I searched the thread and didn't see any mention of using Pacman yeast???

Yooper, I think your a fan of Pacman, you use it in your 60min clone I think...

I jus got a small culture going from some dead guy and was thinking of making your recipe with some Pacman

That might overattenuate, and I think my yeast of choice now might be Denny's Favorite 50 (Wyeast 1450) because it gives a fuller, richer mouthfeel.

A drier finish might be great, but I like a more "full" mouthfeel in this beer lately.
 
Followed the recipe except for I used Nottingham yeast. On day 2 I woke up to my blow off tube laying on the ground and krausen everywhere. Hydro sample tastes great. Can't wait to put this one on tap.
 
bottling this right now and the aroma is just plain awesome. Im going to have to get another batch going this weekend.
 
I have had two and it is nowhere near ready to drink, but this tastes just like Milwaukee Brewing Company's Pull Chain Ale. I just had a couple the other night and had to make sure that I didnt grab one from the fridge by mistake. And here is your Pull Chain Ale clone recipe lol.
 
I searched the thread and didn't see any mention of using Pacman yeast???

Yooper, I think your a fan of Pacman, you use it in your 60min clone I think...

I jus got a small culture going from some dead guy and was thinking of making your recipe with some Pacman

I too am a fan of Pacman yeast. I'm sipping on a spin off of this clone. The hops were changed but the grain bill was the same. Needless to say, I brewed it with pacman yeast and I'm loving it. My hop schedule was drastically changed though to use up the hops I had. Can't get enough of it! I don't see this keg sitting around too long! :tank:
 
I too am a fan of Pacman yeast. I'm sipping on a spin off of this clone. The hops were changed but the grain bill was the same. Needless to say, I brewed it with pacman yeast and I'm loving it. My hop schedule was drastically changed though to use up the hops I had. Can't get enough of it! I don't see this keg sitting around too long! :tank:

Well maybe I'll give it a shot here this spring. Made the BYO Sierra Nevada clone last weekend.
 
I have followed the recipe thus far, except I added a bit of torrified wheat to the mash. I am now ready to dryhop. Any suggestions for what to use? I don't think I have cascade in the freezer (I could get it easily), but I do have:

simcoe
citra
centennial
chinook
amarillo

I kind of think that these all will overpower the cascade that is already in there, but maybe not. Anyone have any advice as to what they think would blend well but not overpower the cascade? I haven't added any cascade since flameout.
 

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