When I look back and think about all the hours I've spent reading about beer brewing over the years I can't believe there's still something out there that I haven't tried incorporating into my brewing process yet. One year my push was into brewing all grain, one year was all about yeast propagation and pitching rates and another year had everything to do about brewing water chemistry. Why would I ever have waited so long to take control over my fermentation temperatures, I'll probably never know. What I do know is that I seem to have saved the best for last, I haven't been this excited over a new piece of brewing gear in a very long time. Maybe it's because I was passionate about computers, programming and electronic circuitry long before I ever thought about brewing beer but the ability to maintain precise temperature control throughout the entire fermentation process eliminated one of the last remaining variables in my brewing process.
What sets the STC-1000+ controller apart from other 'off the shelf' controllers is alphaomega's updated v1.06 firmware and the new functionality that it adds to an otherwise ordinary controller. The firmware ties the controller's hardware components together to deliver precision temperature control to separate heating and cooling outlets that can be used to maintain perfect fermentation temperatures. At the heart of every BrewsBySmith Fermentation Kit is the ubiquitous STC-1000 controller that's already been upgraded to a STC-1000+ with alphaomega's v1.06 firmware, a temperature probe, stainless steel thermowell, two square feet of 32 watt Fermwrap and a stopper that accepts both the thermowell and an airlock. Pretty much everything needed is included in the kit to add precision temperature control to any fermentation chamber, refrigerator or freezer.
I was able to order my Fermentation Kit with an optional tricolored LED light that turns blue or red when the cooling or heating outlets are on and with my very own customized nameplate. Both extras add a little more to the cost of the basic kit, and I know they fall into the 'bells and whistles' category, but I definitely think they're worth having. After unpacking and plugging the controller into a wall outlet I was ready to use the front panel buttons to quickly configure the basic settings needed to ferment my beer at a constant 70F temperature.
To configure the STC-1000+ to run in basic thermostat mode press the 'S' button once to enter the menu and then press the 'Up/Down' buttons until 'SEt' is displayed.
With 'SEt' displayed press the 'S' button then use the 'Up/Down' buttons to scroll through the sub menus until 'rn' is displayed, which is the run mode setting. Press the 'S' button again and use the 'Up/Down' buttons set the display to read 'th', which is the thermostat setting, then press the 'S' button to save the change. Press the 'Cancel' button to return the 'SEt' menu. This will program the STC-1000+ to run in thermostat mode
With 'SEt' displayed press the 'S' button again until 'SP' is displayed then press it again to set the temperature set point. Use the 'Up/Down' buttons to increase or decrease the set point value until it matches your optimum fermentation temperature. Press the 'S' button to save the change then press the 'Cancel' button to return the 'SEt' menu. This will program the STC-1000+ controller's temperature set point.
With 'SEt' displayed press the 'S' button until 'hY' is displayed, press it again and use the 'Up/Down' buttons to change the hysteresis value. This will limit the range away from the temperature set point, in either direction, where both outlets will be turned off. Press the 'S' button to save the change.
Example: Setting the 'hY' value to 1 will turn the heat outlet on when the temperature drops more than 1 degree below the set point, or turn on the cold outlet on when the temperature rises more than 1 degree above the set point.
With 'SEt' displayed press the 'S' button until 'hd' is displayed, press it again and use the 'Up/Down' buttons to change the heating delay value in minutes. Press the 'S' button to save the change then press the 'Cancel' button to return the 'SEt' menu. This setting will delay the heating outlet from turning on again within this time period.
With 'SEt' displayed press the 'S' button until 'cd' is displayed, press it again and use the 'Up/Down' buttons to change the cooling delay value in minutes. Press the 'S' button to save the change then press the 'Cancel' button to return the 'SEt' menu. This setting will delay the cooling outlet from turning on again within this time period.
I checked my settings to make sure that 'rP' ramping was disabled, the 'SA' set point alarm was off and the 'tc' temperature correction was set to zero. Once the controller was programmed all that was left to do was mount the number 6 stopper in the lid of my fermentor, push the thermowell and air lock into it and feed the temperature probe down to the bottom of the thermowell. For the very first time since I began fermenting my own beer I felt like I had complete control over my fermentation temperatures. The controller was able to maintain a consistent fermentation temperature in an unheated garage for the next two weeks as the outdoor temperatures dipped into the low to mid twenties.
Judging from all the positive feedback I've gotten from the people who've tasted some it appears I've done something right, everyone including myself really enjoyed drinking my first Belgian Witbier fermented under such favorable conditions. Although I built my own makeshift heater made out of an inexpensive clamp light, a 100 watt bulb, some aluminum flashing and some duct tape I already have a few tweaks in mind before fermenting my next batch of beer. I plan to lay the FermWrap on the bottom of the chamber and sit the fermentors on top of it while also using a modified version of my paint can heater. The next heater build will use pop rivets instead of duct tape for a more permanent build and have a smaller diameter so it fits easily between my two fermentors to evenly distribute the heat and avoid hot spots. If you've tried just about everything to brew the best tasting beer possible and you feel like the beer's still coming up a little short on flavor you may want to do like I did to control your temperature.
Vince Feminella [aka: ScrewyBrewer]
www.thescrewybrewer.com
[email protected]
What sets the STC-1000+ controller apart from other 'off the shelf' controllers is alphaomega's updated v1.06 firmware and the new functionality that it adds to an otherwise ordinary controller. The firmware ties the controller's hardware components together to deliver precision temperature control to separate heating and cooling outlets that can be used to maintain perfect fermentation temperatures. At the heart of every BrewsBySmith Fermentation Kit is the ubiquitous STC-1000 controller that's already been upgraded to a STC-1000+ with alphaomega's v1.06 firmware, a temperature probe, stainless steel thermowell, two square feet of 32 watt Fermwrap and a stopper that accepts both the thermowell and an airlock. Pretty much everything needed is included in the kit to add precision temperature control to any fermentation chamber, refrigerator or freezer.
I was able to order my Fermentation Kit with an optional tricolored LED light that turns blue or red when the cooling or heating outlets are on and with my very own customized nameplate. Both extras add a little more to the cost of the basic kit, and I know they fall into the 'bells and whistles' category, but I definitely think they're worth having. After unpacking and plugging the controller into a wall outlet I was ready to use the front panel buttons to quickly configure the basic settings needed to ferment my beer at a constant 70F temperature.
To configure the STC-1000+ to run in basic thermostat mode press the 'S' button once to enter the menu and then press the 'Up/Down' buttons until 'SEt' is displayed.
With 'SEt' displayed press the 'S' button then use the 'Up/Down' buttons to scroll through the sub menus until 'rn' is displayed, which is the run mode setting. Press the 'S' button again and use the 'Up/Down' buttons set the display to read 'th', which is the thermostat setting, then press the 'S' button to save the change. Press the 'Cancel' button to return the 'SEt' menu. This will program the STC-1000+ to run in thermostat mode
With 'SEt' displayed press the 'S' button again until 'SP' is displayed then press it again to set the temperature set point. Use the 'Up/Down' buttons to increase or decrease the set point value until it matches your optimum fermentation temperature. Press the 'S' button to save the change then press the 'Cancel' button to return the 'SEt' menu. This will program the STC-1000+ controller's temperature set point.
With 'SEt' displayed press the 'S' button until 'hY' is displayed, press it again and use the 'Up/Down' buttons to change the hysteresis value. This will limit the range away from the temperature set point, in either direction, where both outlets will be turned off. Press the 'S' button to save the change.
Example: Setting the 'hY' value to 1 will turn the heat outlet on when the temperature drops more than 1 degree below the set point, or turn on the cold outlet on when the temperature rises more than 1 degree above the set point.
With 'SEt' displayed press the 'S' button until 'hd' is displayed, press it again and use the 'Up/Down' buttons to change the heating delay value in minutes. Press the 'S' button to save the change then press the 'Cancel' button to return the 'SEt' menu. This setting will delay the heating outlet from turning on again within this time period.
With 'SEt' displayed press the 'S' button until 'cd' is displayed, press it again and use the 'Up/Down' buttons to change the cooling delay value in minutes. Press the 'S' button to save the change then press the 'Cancel' button to return the 'SEt' menu. This setting will delay the cooling outlet from turning on again within this time period.
I checked my settings to make sure that 'rP' ramping was disabled, the 'SA' set point alarm was off and the 'tc' temperature correction was set to zero. Once the controller was programmed all that was left to do was mount the number 6 stopper in the lid of my fermentor, push the thermowell and air lock into it and feed the temperature probe down to the bottom of the thermowell. For the very first time since I began fermenting my own beer I felt like I had complete control over my fermentation temperatures. The controller was able to maintain a consistent fermentation temperature in an unheated garage for the next two weeks as the outdoor temperatures dipped into the low to mid twenties.
Judging from all the positive feedback I've gotten from the people who've tasted some it appears I've done something right, everyone including myself really enjoyed drinking my first Belgian Witbier fermented under such favorable conditions. Although I built my own makeshift heater made out of an inexpensive clamp light, a 100 watt bulb, some aluminum flashing and some duct tape I already have a few tweaks in mind before fermenting my next batch of beer. I plan to lay the FermWrap on the bottom of the chamber and sit the fermentors on top of it while also using a modified version of my paint can heater. The next heater build will use pop rivets instead of duct tape for a more permanent build and have a smaller diameter so it fits easily between my two fermentors to evenly distribute the heat and avoid hot spots. If you've tried just about everything to brew the best tasting beer possible and you feel like the beer's still coming up a little short on flavor you may want to do like I did to control your temperature.
Vince Feminella [aka: ScrewyBrewer]
www.thescrewybrewer.com
[email protected]