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Counterflow Chiller Tutorial

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I too am looking at using 1/2" OD copper tubing. Just started to look into it today I see Mcmaster has 3/4" ID garden hoses so I think I will start there.

@Snafu, i think you may run into some flow restriction problems.
 
I plan to try it out this weekend. I have to run vinegar through it anyways, and I need to figure up chiller loss. If it works great, if not, I already have 1/4 tube here. I would just have to redo all the fittings. We'll see.
 
I personally get no chiller loss. I disconnect the line from my keggle and blow the beer out of my pump and chiller. It works well and gives ur lungs a hell of a work out. Chopps
 
Built myself one of these today. Build went well, but I know I'm going to be scared the first time I push a batch through it! Trial runs with water should help ease the anxiety...
 
Built myself one of these today. Build went well, but I know I'm going to be scared the first time I push a batch through it! Trial runs with water should help ease the anxiety...

Get ready for your first sour.

I keed
 
Bout to build mine this weekend, going to convert my homemade 50' IC. I've seen a lot about not being able to source a 1/2 to 1/4 reducer, but alas, Lowes sells a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer and a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer. Will give my feedback after the build.
 
Was a breeze!!! Thanks for all the input from those before me. I'd post pics, but a little embarassed by the solder job
 
Just built one out of 1/4" O.d. copper tubing. (I had it lying around so it was free) Takes a while for gravity to push out the full 5 gal of wort but it does a great job of cooling!
 
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I'm planning on attaching some QDs to the wort input/output. Pressure tested and works like a charm. Again, thanks to all those who've shared knowledge. This is such a great community!
 

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It's been 4 years since Bobby originally created this tutorial and it's still going strong! Thanks Bobby!

I had not soldered before but decided to give this a try. I found a little scotchbrite makes you look like a copper sweating pro.

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I also added a bypass tube with a pinchclamp (clamp not shown in pictures) so I can whirlpool after cooling. It works great at dropping the temp with the bypass closed, then whirlpools sufficiently once the bypass is opened. I added a PVC shutoff valve to the coolant water line to vary the flow so I am not wasting water.

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This is probably the best DIY I have done yet to improve my brewing.
 
Shelterpupsbrew: you have a couple of neat ideas worked in there. I may have to copy the water valve.

Does the wort bypass make a big difference?
 
tdogg said:
Shelterpupsbrew: you have a couple of neat ideas worked in there. I may have to copy the water valve.

Does the wort bypass make a big difference?

The bypass works pretty good. The CFC knocks the temperature of the wort down amazingly fast, and sort of starts the whirlpool. Once I open the bypass, the whirlpool really gets going. I would estimate that the flow rate doubles once the bypass is opened. The fittings that I used are a little on the small side, someday I might reworks the chiller to put in a larger bypass.

The water valve works well. I recently integrated the chiller into a brew stand and moved the valve to a remote location that is easier to access.
 
I made one tonight. I have a ball valve for the water in ready to go once I mount it to my rig and know my orientation of the coil. I made mine using the full 50ft of copper and hose. Probably overkill but why not if the material is there.
Hopefully I get a chance to run it this weekend.
Thanks for the info bobby. Saved me some time putting the parts together.

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Bigger is not better in this case. I ended up cutting the 50 ft version down to 25 ft. The flow was just too slow. The 25 ft version cools from 197 input to 62 deg output.
A little better than my 30 plate chiller.
 
Ok after scanning through most of this thread i have one question. when using a CFC with a pump why are people complaining about being able to cool the entire batch while whirl pooling? is it the flow rate does not allow for an adequate whirlpool? or is it the recirculation through the CFC back into the boil kettle impedes the cooling process?

who out there uses a CFC and whirlpools with a pump? can i get an honest opinion of how this works in this set up? i can always whirlpool after i chill if flow rate is the issue.
 
Bigger is not better in this case. I ended up cutting the 50 ft version down to 25 ft. The flow was just too slow. The 25 ft version cools from 197 input to 62 deg output.
A little better than my 30 plate chiller.

hmmm i made a ~60' version of this. I haven't tried it yet. You found that reducing the length speed up the flow? I guess I didn't expect that because it was still being reduced to 3/8.

BTW if people are thinking of building this i would recommend lubricating the copper with k-y lube. I tried the water and soap thing but it didn't work out so hot.
 
cobolstinks said:
hmmm i made a ~60' version of this. I haven't tried it yet. You found that reducing the length speed up the flow? I guess I didn't expect that because it was still being reduced to 3/8.

BTW if people are thinking of building this i would recommend lubricating the copper with k-y lube. I tried the water and soap thing but it didn't work out so hot.

I found that the flow was down to a trickle. This was just testing with water. Even at 25 ft it seems to be about a third of the normal flow rate. Which is fine because I am cooling. Still only takes about 5 to 10 minutes to cool 5 gallons down to 70 deg recirculating.
It is 3/8 OD. I am not sure what the actual inner ID is. I am sure the flow would be better if you had 3/8 ID.
If I make another I think I would try 1/2 copper and a 3/4 hose. Maybe someone can chime in on their flow rates at this size.

I used the soapy water and it was very easy. I have a 60 ft shop so I was able roll everything out straight and flat. Slid right in with no binding.
 
kickrjason said:
Ok after scanning through most of this thread i have one question. when using a CFC with a pump why are people complaining about being able to cool the entire batch while whirl pooling? is it the flow rate does not allow for an adequate whirlpool? or is it the recirculation through the CFC back into the boil kettle impedes the cooling process?

who out there uses a CFC and whirlpools with a pump? can i get an honest opinion of how this works in this set up? i can always whirlpool after i chill if flow rate is the issue.

I cool using the CFC and a pump while recirculating back to the boil kettle. I abide by the rule that it is better to get the entire volume down in temp quickly, and this CFC does it in minutes. Then I whirlpool for a few minutes and then transfer to the fermenter. The CFC reduces the flow rate too much to get a good whirlpool, so I installed a bypass that gets opened up once the wort is cooled.

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The picture does not show the pinch clamp that is used to close the bypass, but you can get the idea. You could just disconnect the CFC and run the pump out hose back to the boil kettle for the whirlpool, I just didn't want to have to move any hoses around. Hope this helps.
 
My process is that immediately after the boil I stir hard for about 30 seconds to whirlpool, let it settle for about 8 minutes and then let it drain through my CFC into the fermentation bucket or carboy.....no pump used. Drains out in about 25 minutes max. Is it quicker to recirculate wort with pump to cool it down and then drain or pump into carboy? I just figured with my process it was simple and I was using one less piece of equipment (pump) to touch my cooled wort.
 
bmickey said:
My process is that immediately after the boil I stir hard for about 30 seconds to whirlpool, let it settle for about 8 minutes and then let it drain through my CFC into the fermentation bucket or carboy.....no pump used. Drains out in about 25 minutes max. Is it quicker to recirculate wort with pump to cool it down and then drain or pump into carboy? I just figured with my process it was simple and I was using one less piece of equipment (pump) to touch my cooled wort.

I use to drain the hot wort through the CFC into the fermenter without a pump. This also worked pretty well and was ready for yeast in approx 20 minutes. It's a good way to go if you are not using a pump. The advantages that I have found using the pump/recirculating method is that I get a better cold break (clearer beer) and the finish product retains more hop aroma and maybe more hop flavor.

The recirc/whirlpool/transfer process takes 20-25 minutes depending on how much whirlpool you want.
 
I am thinking of making a CFC based on this great guide and have noticed there is a big difference in price for hoses that are made specifically for high temperatures. How necessary is it to have a hi-temp hose? It seems to me like the hose isn't actually touching the hot wort, but rather has the cool water barrier. Has any measured the cooling water temp after it has gone through the chiller to see how hot it gets?
 
I use an el cheapo hose with no problems. My hose doesn't feel overly warm when cooling. But one thing I see now that I didn't when I built mine is if/when my hose dies I would be pretty screwed on a easy fix the more expensive hoses probably last longer
 
bwoodworth said:
I am thinking of making a CFC based on this great guide and have noticed there is a big difference in price for hoses that are made specifically for high temperatures. How necessary is it to have a hi-temp hose? It seems to me like the hose isn't actually touching the hot wort, but rather has the cool water barrier. Has any measured the cooling water temp after it has gone through the chiller to see how hot it gets?

I recirculate the last 20 to 30 minutes of the boil to kill off any bad stuff. So the hose gets pretty hot with no water running thru it.
I used the good year high temp hose. 50 ft was $35 at home depot. Not much more than the other stuff.
 
Oh I forgot to mention I santatize mine by circulating star san for 20 mins that's probably why mine doesn't get as hot. I never run liquid through mine without the cooling water running
 
Mine's pretty much the same as everyone else's. I used MoreBeer's 1/2" male quick disconnects for my wort in and out.

I had some problems sweating the reducer the inside tube passes through. I guess I did not get it cleaned well or applied enough flux. I had to take it back apart and resweat those joints. I cleaned the crap out of them and slathered the flux on to make sure there was still plenty once it was slid into place. No leaks :mug:

 
thank you bobby m

i just made this tonight. i got 33 ft of the copper for free at work and i bought the rest of the stuff i needed. i just got done testing this with water and it brought 5 gallons of boiling water down to 55 degrees with my 3/8 kettle valve wide open! good thing my other kettle has a half inch valve so maybe i won't hit so low of a temp next time. i goess my ground water is cooler than i thought
 
I debating between this or a 50' immersion chiller. I do not have a valve on my kettle. I typically use a funnel and a mesh strainer. I do not have time right now to DIY so I would either buy this or an immersion chiller. I would need to hook these up to my facet and also use gravity feed my beer through it. Could I use a CFC given considering these things?
 
I debating between this or a 50' immersion chiller. I do not have a valve on my kettle. I typically use a funnel and a mesh strainer. I do not have time right now to DIY so I would either buy this or an immersion chiller. I would need to hook these up to my facet and also use gravity feed my beer through it. Could I use a CFC given considering these things?

immersion chiller for your setup. You could always use the copper later to make of these when you get a valve installed and move to a pump.
 
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