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Not a sink, but laundry outlets and drain. And dryer outlet is 240v. Most new places rent by the bedroom, price around $1200-$1500, so 3 bedroom is 3x that. Rent and housing has skyrocketed here, use to be a cheap place to live when i went to school here. My first apartment in early 90's was about $250.
 
A little hazy but that's about what I think I paid off campus for my own bedroom early nineties, NJ though. What caught my eye with the new floorplans was that they were 4 bedroom units with separate baths for each bedroom, seemed built for students. I was thinking that would have been nice! I looked up on campus at Tech and that runs from ~$6000-$11000/year! Crazy how much prices have gone up.

You most likely wouldn't have any trouble with draining a chiller down the laundry drain unless it was clogged. I've got an old house and the laundry standpipe is only 1 1/2" and the waste line has never been remodeled. I added a laundry sink to it which is possible because the laundry standpipe has a trap on it and the standpipe itself is a vent. Because the pipe is undersized and has 75 years of buildup plus the washer pump is a little fast, I get a little back flow into the sink but once I upgrade the pipe to 2" it'll be fine. If your standpipe was in the open (and not the wall) and if it's PVC and if you had the space, you could conceivably tie into the standpipe and be halfway to a fully functional sink! A lot of ifs too though. My basement and garage are both unfinished and the pipes are in the open.
 
Ordered parts to connect to washer cold water and dryer plug. Do I need 10/3 SJOOW or is 12/3 SJOOW ok? If I need 10/3 I'll need to redo the GFCI and the rest of the extension cord.
 
Ordered parts to connect to washer cold water and dryer plug. Do I need 10/3 SJOOW or is 12/3 SJOOW ok? If I need 10/3 I'll need to redo the GFCI and the rest of the extension cord.
If you have a 30 amp panel, you'll need 10 AWG. That's what I used. And make sure you check the number of prongs on the dryer.
 
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