Controling hot break boil over

[chumney]

I am getting older and brewing a larger volume of beer. I am wondering how others control the wort hot break or boil over? I am still moving the wort off the heat and letting it settle back down before placing back on the heat source. At 65+ and over 14 gallons of wort, I must say it is getting harder to do.

 

[Wayne1]

Fermcap

Five Star Kettle Defoamer 105

Kettle defoamer

 

[govner1]

How big is your BK?
I keep a spray bottle of water handy plus a wooden spoon.
I also use a 15g BK for 6g batches. My pre-boil ranges from 9-11 gal depending on boil time.
BTW @ 70 I appreciate your concerns. I don't lift anymore than necessary especially w/essentially one arm. That's what pumps are for!

 

[xCSx]

i make sure I have lots of headroom
8 gallon kettle for 3 gallon batches
15 gallon kettle for 5 gallon batches

i lower the heat to minimum and stir like crazy when its going to boil over, works every time

 

[kh54s10]

1) kettle big enough to hold the foam
2) Throttle down the heat without moving the kettle
3) spray bottle of cool water - spray it on the foam as needed.
4) IMO, in last place is silicone based foam control.

I have heard that you can put a wooden spoon, paddle across the pot and the foam will stop when it hits the wood. I have not been brave enough to test this. I should though since my porch is pretty well stained from boil overs.

 

[smurfjuice]

Turn down the heat and stir like hell ...

 

[mongoose33]

I have a small spray bottle of water that I used to cool down any eruptions that threaten to boil over.

Spray, spray, spray, it always cools it down. I also use it when I'm doing hop additions as sometimes they will precipitate a boil-up.

I now have a 10-gallon kettle but when I had my 8-gallon kettle I could boil 6.5 gallons of wort and kill any boilovers w/ my spray bottle.

I actually have several, green ones w/ Star-San, blue ones w/ water. I bought 'em in the travel size/samples aisle of Chinamart.

 

[C-Rider]

I have a digital thermometer in my boil kettle w/an alarm that goes off at 200*. Then I stand by w/a spray bottle in my left hand and my right had on the propane valve. I do a pretty good job of controlling boil over like this.

 

[PADave]

Buy a bigger kettle, turn the heat down as you get close to boil. Lifting 14 gallons of boiling wort is crazy, just asking for trouble! I do 5 gallon brews in a 10 gallon kettle and never even came close to having a boil over. Just turn the heat way down, let the hot break happen, and get on with the boil.

 

[RM-MN]

I've begun breaking up the foam with a wire whisk. It seems much easier than stirring with a spoon.

 

[brewbama]

In cooking, you learn to place a wooden spoon across a pot to prevent boil overs while your attention is elsewhere. So, I picked up the habit and place a stainless wire strainer across the kettle and turn the heat down to a slow rolling boil once I get a good hot break. Kettle headspace is key to allow some reaction time.

 

[kingmatt]

Fermcap changed my brewing life.

For those that don't use it, is there a particular reason why? I honestly can't find any downside for something that makes my brew day so much easier...

 

[TomVA]

I've never had significant or threatening foam during boil, even vigorous boils. What causes this?

TomVA

 

[Jwin]

I don't do a hard boil past hot break. Thermal load, yada yada yada. Unless you are shooting for a high boil off amount, a slow roll is all you need. Keep one hand on the regulator and dial it back to nearly off once I see the break coming. Fermacap if I have to.
I then leave it at a near boil for a moment, almost a roll, then ease back into the heat until it hit that low roll point.
Don't add fermacap until you need it as it precipitates out/boils off/whatever fairly quickly. I keep it at arm's length, opened. Only grab the dropper. Reason: once turned the regulator the wrong way(up), freaked out, dropped the whole bottle of fermacap into my RIS. Fished it out safely though.

 

[Callacave]

I don't know why people insist on keeping the burner cranked when coming to a boil. It's so easy to avoid boilovers. I think some dudes just get off on seeing a violent hot break.

When it's getting close to boil all I do is crank the flame down really really low. No issues, and I still get a nice hot break. Plus, thermal overload on the wort isn't always the best thing.

 

[RM-MN]

I've never had significant or threatening foam during boil, even vigorous boils. What causes this?

TomVA

Low headspace in the kettle? I often have only an inch or so above the wort to the rim.

 

[chumney]

I asked because I have my system setup so it is hard to reach the control of the boil burner with not a lot of excessive head space with a 60 quart pot. It is a dual burner hermsI system I designed in the mid 80's. The boil usually last at least 90 minutes and a lot of evaporation takes place. I am also old school where the vigorous boil is used to provide the necessary reduction of the wort and maximize the bittering potential of the hops and melonidian reactions. Being That I enjoy a great beer and know how to make them and a simmer does not produce what flavor compounds that a hard boil produces.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

Just prior to hitting the really foamy boilover stage, a lot of particulates and hot break will rise to the top in a "scum".
I keep a very fine mesh stainless steel strainer on hand and as that forms I skim it off until it stops forming.
I find that this dramatically reduces boilover because it removes some of the material that generates persistent foam (the part that actually lingers and boils over).

Combine that with some Fermcap and and turn down the heat a tad and you're good to go.

 

[Jwin]

I asked because I have my system setup so it is hard to reach the control of the boil burner with not a lot of excessive head space with a 60 quart pot. It is a dual burner hermsI system I designed in the mid 80's. The boil usually last at least 90 minutes and a lot of evaporation takes place. I am also old school where the vigorous boil is used to provide the necessary reduction of the wort and maximize the bittering potential of the hops and melonidian reactions. Being That I enjoy a great beer and know how to make them and a simmer does not produce what flavor compounds that a hard boil produces.

Sounds like fermacap or a bigger kettle is needed

 

[Spartan1979]

I love Fermcap. It's done more to increase my enjoyment of the brewing process than anything else.

 

[wottaguy]

I turn down the heat some then use a fan and aim it over the top of the boil kettle. I find that the fast moving air that goes across the top of the BK cools the surface down and the foamy break subsides quickly!

 

[bbohanon]

Fermcap

Five Star Kettle Defoamer 105

Kettle defoamer

+1 for Fermcap. I use it everytime.

 

[Red_Dog]

With 4 drops of Fermcap I can't get 5gal to boil over

 

[bloombrews]

I skim off the first pre-boil scum that forms at the top of the BK, just prior and a little into the boil.http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/images/smilies/offtopic.gif
I am not sure if I am paranoid, or I should just skip doing this step.....
What are your opinions?

As to preventing a boil over, it seems after about 2-times raising its ugly boil-head, the sugars and proteins start to become more dissolved in the boil and then a much less likely boil over.
Some folks say to put a gram or two of hops pre-boil to help, but I do not find this to work for me.....

 

[JayDog]

Turn down the heat, keep a spray bottle with Ice water, Use a larger kettle, or if you want to go old school keep a fan blowing across the top of your kettle.
What you need to control the hot break is a change in temperature. That's why some people use a spray bottle with water. But if you put ice in it, it works better to knock down that foam.

For God sake, please stop lifting a hot kettle.

 

[Morrey]

Fermcap changed my brewing life.

For those that don't use it, is there a particular reason why? I honestly can't find any downside for something that makes my brew day so much easier...

Seems an easy solution, but is there any evidence that Fermcap could possibly inhibit the formation of a head on your beer once carbed?

 

[skeeterman]

I have a small spray bottle of water that I used to cool down any eruptions that threaten to boil over.

Spray, spray, spray, it always cools it down. I also use it when I'm doing hop additions as sometimes they will precipitate a boil-up.

I now have a 10-gallon kettle but when I had my 8-gallon kettle I could boil 6.5 gallons of wort and kill any boilovers w/ my spray bottle.

I actually have several, green ones w/ Star-San, blue ones w/ water. I bought 'em in the travel size/samples aisle of Chinamart.

I definitely agree with somehow coding the different bottles for spraying. Although spraying with Star-san for boil-overs doesn't hurt anything, it is kind of scary the first time you do it. Trust me!!!:rockin:

 

[plazola86]

Boil over minder on Northern Brewer. Just place it on top of your kettle and it breaks up the foam for you.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/media.../4/2/42038-the-sentinel-boilover-minder-1.jpg

 

[mdime]

Seems an easy solution, but is there any evidence that Fermcap could possibly inhibit the formation of a head on your beer once carbed?

Nope. I've been using it for a few years now and haven't noticed anything negative.

Fermcap is also a lifesaver when making starters in an Erlenmeyer flask. Prevents boilovers AND keeps kreusen down.

 

[balrog]

+1 for the spray bottle, here.
The trick is to quit trying to do too much else as boil approaches. If you're not there to actually use the spray bottle, I've found it does little on its own.