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Controling hot break boil over

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Nope. I've been using it for a few years now and haven't noticed anything negative.

Fermcap is also a lifesaver when making starters in an Erlenmeyer flask. Prevents boilovers AND keeps kreusen down.

This X1000. I've been using Fermcap and have never had any issues with head formation or retention.

On my last brew, I found that the bottle I had had developed mold and had to toss it and do without. Never again.

How the heck does Fermcap get moldy?
 
I suppose the tiny Fermcap bottle could get wort in it if you had it squished to drop some drops in and let go of the bottle just as it got splashed with wort coming back up the other way?


With Fermcap available I don't know why anybody would do anything else. One wee bottle lasts one lifetime as well.
 
Boil over minder on Northern Brewer. Just place it on top of your kettle and it breaks up the foam for you.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/media.../4/2/42038-the-sentinel-boilover-minder-1.jpg

This device was mercilessly ripped so bad (and deservedly so) when NB first introduced it. $60 for what is essentially a steamer basket.

42038-the-sentinel-boilover-minder-2.jpg
 
I dont move the kettle but do turn the heat down to control the boil. I also stir like a mad witch. I keep it hot enough to allow the break but not to over flow. After the break I return to full boil.
 
I am getting older and brewing a larger volume of beer. I am wondering how others control the wort hot break or boil over? I am still moving the wort off the heat and letting it settle back down before placing back on the heat source. At 65+ and over 14 gallons of wort, I must say it is getting harder to do.

You're seriously picking up 14 gallons of near boiling wort instead of just turning the heat down?
 
Ferm cap is a chemical. Dimethylpolysiloxane. It is said to be removed from the beer by the yeast during fermentation. But still.
 
I converted to electric with a 240 volt 5500 watt ultra low watt density heating element. I use a Riorand 10,000 watt controller from Amazon to regulate the power. As the break happens and the foam heads up the kettle I just "dial" back on the power until it stops and hold it there until the foam clears and then bump the power back up. I will never go back to propane. The cost to brew is 70% less with electric and I go from room temp water to boil in less than 10 minutes for a 6+ gallon run.

controller.jpg
 
This device was mercilessly ripped so bad (and deservedly so) when NB first introduced it. $60 for what is essentially a steamer basket.

42038-the-sentinel-boilover-minder-2.jpg

This is a solution to the OP's problem. $60 dollars for this pre made item, make one yourself, or pay for back surgery after trying to lift 14 gallons and something slips. I wouldn't want to lift 14 gallons and I'm half the age of the OP.
 
15 gallon kettle. I usually start at 12.5 gallons, but have pushed it up to 14 and been ok. I have been using it for years and have never had a problem with head retention of any flavor introduction at all. Someone mentioned chemicals. It is silicone. Very inert.
 
Fermcap +1000000 Changed my brewing from a chore to something I can enjoy and do other things during the boil than just kettle watching.
 
Hey, I am just glad to see there are so many of us brewing beer in our sunset years. I have been brewing since brewing laws changed in 1978, and dealing with hot break boilovers since then. Since I am getting pretty long in the tooth I am frankly glad I still can still brew, and hope to be able to make beer far into the future. I have found that, following the initial rush of excited malt, things calm down fairly quickly, especially if you keep stirring and control the heat to keep the pot boiling but perhaps less vigorously until the rush has passed. Turning the heat down too much will only prolong the boilover -- after all, what's happening in the kettle needs to happen, so making your heat too low only prolongs the agony. In my brewing, all grain beers seem to have a less frenetic rush during hot break than extract beers -- not sure why that is, but it's another advantage to all grain brewing. I don't like to use foam suppressors, 'cause the fewer things I put in my beer the happier I am. I also use a wire whisk.
 
I turn down the heat some then use a fan and aim it over the top of the boil kettle. I find that the fast moving air that goes across the top of the BK cools the surface down and the foamy break subsides quickly!

+1 for using air.

I started with the temp turn down, but found it was difficult to find that sweet spot of boil verses no boil. I went to a spray bottle but found it wore my fingers out spraying frenetically as the hot break suddenly jumped up. I now use a vacuum motor in reverse. Hook the hose to the blow end. It blows hard and will take down a boil over in less than a second.

My next move is (following in the footsteps of wottaguy) to mount a fan at the boil kettle and just turn it on as the boil gets going. No muss, no fuss.
 
I use fermcap, but still boils up a little, and always anal it will boil over. Fermcap gives me much better control. I then just stand there with the boil pot cover and wave it over the foam a couple of times and it settles it down.

Doing 5gal batches in an 8gal pot where I am starting out with 7 or so gal of water before the boil...doesn't leave much for head space.
 
Hey, I am just glad to see there are so many of us brewing beer in our sunset years. I have been brewing since brewing laws changed in 1978, and dealing with hot break boilovers since then. Since I am getting pretty long in the tooth I am frankly glad I still can still brew, and hope to be able to make beer far into the future.

Sunset years? I've been brewing since the fifties and there ain't no sign of sunset here.:mug:
 
+1 on fermcap. Every time I use it (which is every time I brew) I refer to it as the greatest invention ever.
 
I am impressed that FranklinNewhart has been brewing since the 50's, WOW. I have moved up the size of beer volume in recent years. The issue was / and is boil over at the start of the boil / hot break. This past weekend I had an almost 14 gallons in a keggle with first wort hopping. No boil over this time by removing the scum off the top of the hot wort and then sprinkling with cool water.

I will try this again the next brew and report back on the procedure success or failure. I don't want to spend more on each beer.
 
If you drink 4 or 5 beers during the mash it won't take nearly as much blowing before you feel dizzy. You might not even care if the pot boils over. :D

It may be blasphemy, but i usually don't drink while i brew :D
That confession being said, i get a boil over once in a while :ban:
 
Sunset years? I've been brewing since the fifties and there ain't no sign of sunset here.:mug:

Sunset years ain't so bad. Especially if you relax and have a homebrew. I was a kid in the 50's but had a friend whose father brewed. Lots of fun. But the beer wasn't so hot. In fact it was awful, made with bread yeast and raisins.
 
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