Control Panel Layout Advice

[berrywise]

Hoping to get some feedback on my panel layout before I start punching holes in this thing The angle of the camera makes it look a little off, and I'm eyeballing where my marks are but overall layout critique is much appreciated!

The first row is switches for my two pumps (on/off/auto).

Second row are lights for the switches (on/auto) and last an input button for the BCS-460.

Third row starts with a switch (on/off) for the alarm, and switches (on/off/auto) for the 220v boil kettle and the 220v HLT

Fourth row is the alarm light and lights for the boil and hlt

Fifth row is key switch that constantly falls over when taking pictures but envision it aligning in a nice vertical row (on/off) switch for power, switch for 120v RIMS (on/off/auto) and push button emergency off.

Sixth row light for on/off, lights for RIMS and light for emergency.

Thoughts? Thanks!

 

[heckels]

Personally, I'd prefer all of my elements to be on the same row. However, it looks like real estate is tight there.

Ideally you'd have a row for control functions (key, alarm, e-stop), a row for pumps and a row for elements.


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[muhteeus]

So let me say that I do this for a living, and there aren't any rules for the front of the panel. I'll give you some of my common ideas.

Front Panel:

1. Ergonomics - can you manipulate every control without issue. No controls should impede the use of other controls.
2. Grouping - Are indicators and controls grouped by function? You want to be able to have your system convey information at a glance so you can focus on the process.
3. Audience - Who is using the system? Since this is probably you, then stick to your best layout. If there are others, try to keep in mind their useability of the system.

Now, internally I like to have some safety in place, and some separation between sensor, low voltage, and DC wiring to prevent noise.

Panel Wiring:

1. Keep 220V and 120V distribution cabling in seperate wireways from DC and Sensor wiring. If possible use belden insulated and shielded wire for sensors, and keep them 12"+ from anything 120VAC+.
2. Use color coded wiring. 120V-Red, N-White, 24V-Blue, C-Blue/White, 220V-L2-Black
3. Use adequate interlock devices (such as a plug or mains disconnect).
4. Use guarding on low voltage if possible. Covers and insulated Terminals.

From what I see this is a great layout! I could tell the basic layout from just looking at the picture. Only question is, why do you have an E-Stop light and an alarm buzzer? Is this to show you that the E-Stop is activated?

 

[Ki-ri-n]

$.02, double/tripple check to make sure you have enough clearance for items secured to the lid when opening/closing. Both along the border of the enclosure (don't forget that it may be set back from the edge) and to other elements that are mounted to the bottom of the enclosure. Depending on how deep your enclosure is this may not be an issue. You may have to stagger componnents to get them to fit. If the enlocusre has a lock, keep in mind how that will move and possibly interfere with mounted devices or wiring.

 

[Bensiff]

Like muhteeus said, make the layout ergonomic and intuitive. I also did away with the big industrial switches and lights because they took up too much space and seemed to clutter the area. So I used lighted dc switches via ssr's instead. I think auber now has them in ac; but the DC ones are readily available in eBay and you can get all sorts of colors and different patterns ie the buttons to power the pumps and main have the universal on/off power symbol. Anyway, just a thought.