Cold crash

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Yeah, being patient is better than cold crashing with oxygenation suckback. If you are using a carboy that can't hold pressure (most can't), then capturing CO2 in a bag during fermentation works great to backfill CO2 during cold crashing.
 
My practice is 3 days minimum. Sometimes as long as 7 days. Extra time at 32 degrees will not hurt at all.
 
48hrs minimum or more. Control suck back. You will get very nice clear beer.
 
Im a week after dry hopping,fermentation has slowed to a minute and a half beer is starting to clear but still have some hops on top will that sink when its done?
 
So I have a 5 gal glass carboy with a 3 piece airlock sitting at 72 degrees it’s an brewers best neipa.
 
I would give that beer a total of 3 weeks on the carboy. How long has it been so far? Things will start to fall naturally, cold crashing helps that but with your setup I wouldn't move it. There are lots of things out there that can be made cheap to avoid oxygen and help make a neipa the way it's intended. There's a thread on here about turning a fermonster into a complete closed transfer system. You may have issues transferring so your gonna want to look at different ways use a filter on your siphon when it comes time to bottle. Most important part is to avoid any exposure to oxygen. If you need to wait longer for the hops to drop to the bottom then wait.
 
It’s been in the secondary for two weeks now.dry hopped last Thursday.I’ll leave it be.just anxious to see what it tastes like.do i need to take another gravity reading?the OG and FG have been spot on. Thanks for the help
 
You could take another gravity just to be sure it's done fermenting. Secondary fermenters are typically no longer used as it is another place for oxygen exposure. Do a little searching on here and you'll find a ton of info on neipa and processes people do. The northeast ipa thread in recipes is huge but there is gobs of info there. You can try to siphon it off when your ready, keep your siphon near to the bottom and when you start to suck up hops/trub then stop. Likely you'll fall a little short on volume but that's ok you would just need to calculate your priming sugar accordingly, this is assuming you are bottling it. Neipa is a hard style, but the challenge is a lot of imo.. goodluck.
 
Thanks alot your info has helped alot wish I would have started with something easier. I will keep trying what yall use for a secondary fermenter?
 
No secondary, just leave it in the primary for the duration. In any case you hit your numbers which is great. So you've made beer. Definitely be careful with your priming addition when you bottle, so if you mix up your priming sugar for a 5 gallon batch and say you only get 4.5 gallon or less your bottles will be over carbonated. I have conicals and keg my beer so this isn't a concern for me. Just gonna throw this out there but if I were you I would do a kit or 2 that doesnt require a dry hop. Brew it ferment it, bottle it, enjoy it.. simple.. then if you like it look into getting something to allow you to cold crash properly.
Cheers!
 
No secondary, just leave it in the primary for the duration. In any case you hit your numbers which is great. So you've made beer. Definitely be careful with your priming addition when you bottle, so if you mix up your priming sugar for a 5 gallon batch and say you only get 4.5 gallon or less your bottles will be over carbonated. I have conicals and keg my beer so this isn't a concern for me. Just gonna throw this out there but if I were you I would do a kit or 2 that doesnt require a dry hop. Brew it ferment it, bottle it, enjoy it.. simple.. then if you like it look into getting something to allow you to cold crash properly.
Cheers!
No secondary, just leave it in the primary for the duration. In any case you hit your numbers which is great. So you've made beer. Definitely be careful with your priming addition when you bottle, so if you mix up your priming sugar for a 5 gallon batch and say you only get 4.5 gallon or less your bottles will be over carbonated. I have conicals and keg my beer so this isn't a concern for me. Just gonna throw this out there but if I were you I would do a kit or 2 that doesnt require a dry hop. Brew it ferment it, bottle it, enjoy it.. simple.. then if you like it look into getting something to allow you to cold crash properly.
Cheers!
 
So I brewed up a witbier for the wifey.sooo much easier!packaged ingredient calls for a secondary can I skip that and leave it in my plastic container primary and bottle when its done?
 
10-12 days at 68 degrees you think do I need to gradually bring the temperature up during fermentation?
 
If you started at 68 the temp will rise naturally during active fermentation so when that happens you will actually want to try to keep it from getting to warm. I would try to keep that batch at 70 but under 75 is fine. Let it go for an extra 2 weeks after fermentation is complete then bottle it up.
 
So my witbeir has been in the primary for five days and no action out of the airlock first two days wer pretty rapid.last 3 days slowed now no action huh.so two weeks bottle it? And my neipa is still fermenting in the secondary at a pace of 40 seconds thru the airlock they are both at 72 degrees
 
When you say 72 degrees, how are you measuring that? Are both in carboys with good seals.. I've had a bad seal on a fermenter before and wondered why I had nothing in the airlock and pushed down on the bung then all the sudden I had bubbles.
 
Measuring thru strip gauge room that they are both in is 72 degrees Wit is done airlock has settled ipa is still pumping.I’ll send a pic
 
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How long can I let the NEIPA sit in the secondary still things moving up and down inside
 
How long has it been in there? The only downside to leaving it longer is that your dry hops will be in there for an extended period of time and may result in some grassy flavors. I typically add my dryhop 3 days before I keg but since I can cold crash this is no issue. 7 days is what I used to consider the max for my dry hops to be in the fermenter before packaging.
 
I would take a gravity reading and see where it's at. The only way to know for sure that fermentation is done is to take 2 gravity readings a day or 2 apart and if they are the same then it's done. What was the yeast for that? Likely it's done but a gravity reading should be taken either way to verify where it's at and get your abv plus other useful info like attenuation.
 
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