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Tolmikivi

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Nov 17, 2020
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Hello, another newbie asking for advice.

I will be soon bottling my first batch of home brew, APA. Im just wondering if I should cold crash it? The problem is that I do not have a refrigerator to chill the beer controlled.

Most likely Im able to drop the temperature to 3-5C on balcony. So is it worth cold crashing in such a high tempereture or should I just bottle after fermentation is over?
 
Cold crashing decisions depends on several factors. I've yet to actually do that since I've never had any need (or desire) to. Partially due to my yeast selection. Partially to being patient enough to give the yeast TIME to flocculate out of suspension.

Personally, I wouldn't trust the reported temperatures to leave something outside to 'cold crash'. Since weathermen can be very wrong when it comes to temperatures.

How long as your batch been in process? If you're trying to rush things, take a step back, have a brew (or a few) and give it some time.
 
Cold crashing decisions depends on several factors. I've yet to actually do that since I've never had any need (or desire) to. Partially due to my yeast selection. Partially to being patient enough to give the yeast TIME to flocculate out of suspension.

Personally, I wouldn't trust the reported temperatures to leave something outside to 'cold crash'. Since weathermen can be very wrong when it comes to temperatures.

How long as your batch been in process? If you're trying to rush things, take a step back, have a brew (or a few) and give it some time.

Im following my recipe and bottling should happen 19 days after the brew day, of course I fisrt check FG. I just read forums and saw that cold crashing would improve the clarity of the beer and got interested
 
19 days should be sufficient to have allowed most of the yeast to flocculate and settle. Cold crashing will settle more but then you will need to allow the beer to warm once in the bottle or you won't get carbonation. I'd probably bottle the beer, let it have time to carbonate, then chill it for a couple days or more to let whatever trub got stirred up by the yeast carbonating the beer settle out again. From my perspective, cold crashing is a way to speed up the flocculation and settling the yeast and trub for those who do not have the patience to allow it to settle otherwise or who ran out of beer and need the next batch quicker.
 
I will be soon bottling my first batch of home brew, APA. Im just wondering if I should cold crash it? The problem is that I do not have a refrigerator to chill the beer controlled.

Most likely Im able to drop the temperature to 3-5C on balcony. So is it worth cold crashing in such a high tempereture or should I just bottle after fermentation is over?

Cold crashing is a useful technique, but if you don't have a way to keep air from being sucked in as the beer volume contracts, you'll expose the beer to O2, and thus oxidation.
 
Cold crashing is good if you keg. Otherwise dont bother.
I keg and I don't bother to cold crash. I normally use high flocculation rated yeast so they fall out of suspension easily, and quickly, once done. A bit more TIME and things are good.

I've never subscribed to recipes that say XX days after pitching to bottling. Even if you check for FG (a few readings to confirm if you're trying to rush things).

I checked on my 9 gallon batch of English IPA this morning. It's at ambient which means it will be good to go to keg this weekend. I used a high flocculation rated yeast, that I've used many times in the past. The extra days it will sit will do a LOT to clear the brew up.

Eventually you'll learn how your ingredients behave/react for your recipes. I learned more by designing my own brews and picking the yeast myself, than I learned from anything else. Learned very little from the kits (only used two). Researching things (about 10 years ago) with the info available was a higher gain.
 
I learned that in homebrewing there are many ways to do things and just because someone says they do it or they don't do it means very little in a small context. Best is to try to read a lot of ways and average the results you get. Having said that, I agree that cold crash is more useful when kegging. Independent of time (I usually ferment 2-4 weeks) in my case I get a solid yeast pancake and transfer crystal clear beer if I used all the other fining products. More benefit is when you try to get to almost the bottom of the carboy to leave the minimum and maximize what goes into the keg. That last pint transferred won't be turbid due to the carboy movement.
 
When I bottled I never cold crashed only because your yeast will have to warm back up before they start carbing your bottles. Yes they will still if cold but slower.
I only cold crash now because I keg. I crash for 48 hours then keg and force carb
 
When I bottled I never cold crashed only because your yeast will have to warm back up before they start carbing your bottles. Yes they will still if cold but slower.
I only cold crash now because I keg. I crash for 48 hours then keg and force carb

Agreed to this. Cold crash helps ensure the yeast is out of suspension. If you're kegging it's nice to not have it in there if you can cold crash a carboy, or alternately you can cold crash int he keg and hope your dip tube is high enough to avoid sucking it out (even then it doesn't take but a glass or two).

If you're bottling, you're going to have yeast all over the place again assuming you bottle carb w/ priming sugar. Then when you frig the beer for drinking it'll cold crash at that time if the yeast hasn't dropped out already.
 
In my opinion. Bottling you dont cold crash, yeastys will condition your beer. Im not up with bottling anymore.

If you keg, cold crash, get that beer down to 1 degree celius ( im Aussie ) everything drops out. Yeast doesnt like working so cold. I dont either.

Carb your keg up. I go 10 - 12 PSI depending on style. You also have a bit of stuff in keg to mature that makes a good beer. My take.
 

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