CO2 tank drops to zero when I pour

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CofCnJofLV

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I am going to say something I am sure you have never heard...

"I am a newbie and I just tapped my first Keg and there are a few things that are not working as the instructions say. I am probably doing wrong" :rolleyes:

First thing.. When I hooked the CO2 up and turned it on, air was coming out of the tab even though they were closed. Is that normal or is something not right?

Second thing.. I set the PSI on 10 on the regulator. I start pouring beer and then after about 1 1/2 pours, the beer stops. When I look at at my regulator it is at zero?? I turn it back to 10, and the same thing happens?

Third thing.. and this is probably related to both or one of the above things. But, FOAM FOAM and more FOAM

The Kegerator temp is at 34

I'd really like to drink some beer so any advise would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Chad
 
Your first two issues potentially point to a busted regulator, though not sure what you mean by “air coming out of the tab” means - do you have a picture of what but you are talking about?

The foam topic may be a different problem. What’s your line diameter and length? Could also be warm lines, but this would show as initial foam that reduces on the second pour.
 
First of all.. Thanks for the quick response.

So ignore the "air coming out of the tab" I figured that one out.. I 'd tell you want the issue was, but then it would show how new I really am 🥴

On the tubing, I am not sure the diameter it came with the kegerator. It is a double pour and each line is about 4.5 ft

I sent a picture of the Keg and Regulator. Also a movie showing the PSI as I pour a beer.

Thanks again for this help!
 

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First of all.. Thanks for the quick response.

So ignore the "air coming out of the tab" I figured that one out.. I 'd tell you want the issue was, but then it would show how new I really am 🥴

On the tubing, I am not sure the diameter it came with the kegerator. It is a double pour and each line is about 4.5 ft

I sent a picture of the Keg and Regulator. Also a movie showing the PSI as I pour a beer.

Thanks again for this help!

Do you have the tank valve open all the way?
 
So a regulator works with an internal spring that opens an internal diaphragm to maintain downstream pressure to set point.

To diagnose whether you have a sticking regulator, pull the pressure relief pin on the sanke tap and confirm that the pressure drops, then restores. If it doesn’t restore at all unless you rotate the set point clockwise, then it is a sticking regulator. If it restores slower than a couple seconds, then it could be an upstream constriction (ie the tank valve isn’t open all the way).

On the foaming, the line length looks too short. Google beer line length calculator that can help you to size the right length based on the internal diameter of the beer line.
 
Looks like sticking regulator then. If it’s still new, I’d return it for a new one. If it’s not under warranty, you could try rebuilding the regulator, but based on your experience, maybe a bit too much. At least you could disassemble it to learn how a regulator works and see if you can determine the reason for the sticking.
 
I am not sure what it was.. But I pulled the relief pin. and it dropped and then went right back up. I pulled it again, same thing.

Then I tried pouring beer and regulator did not move and after a minute foam was normal.

I did try to adjust the PSI down a little, it was at 10. When I turned the knob, it did not move. So I pulled the relief pin again and it went down and then went up and stopped at about 8. But when I poured more beer, it did not move.

So it is working now!! But, I dont know if maybe the regulator is sticking or the knob not working correctly??
 
No, it sounds like it is working correctly.

When you increase the pressure, then the valve opens, so it increases real time. But when you lower the pressure by turning the knob, it only lowers it when the pressure is relieved (serving or pulling pin).
 
That makes sense..

Beholder, I sure appreciate your help. If your ever in Vegas, let me pour you a beer (Might have a little foam :) ) :bigmug:

On a side note, I will check the line length as you suggested.

Thanks again..
 
Do you have the tank valve open all the way?
Opening the tank valve all the way is very important.
Doing so prevents (slow) leaks from that valve. There's a packing/seal inside, on top of the valve stem, that gets compressed only in the fully opened position.

On a side note, I will check the line length as you suggested.
Inside line diameter is just as important.
Using 3/16" ID thick-walled vinyl beverage line is most common for your application, inside a kegerator. You'd probably need around 9' of it when serving at 10-12 psi, and 34F.

Although a bit more advanced and involved, if you really want better beer coming from your taps, I'd recommend using 4mm ID (8mm OD) EVA Barrier line. Use for both beer and gas lines. It helps prevent your beer from (slowly) oxidizing.
You'd also need the special push-to-connect fittings and adapters. And quite a bit of handiwork to retrofit it all.

At least look into it, and if you're confident you can do it, go for it. There are many threads here on this forum to help guide your way.
 
Opening the tank valve all the way is very important.
Doing so prevents (slow) leaks from that valve. There's a packing/seal inside, on top of the valve stem, that gets compressed only in the fully opened position.


Inside line diameter is just as important.
Using 3/16" ID thick-walled vinyl beverage line is most common for your application, inside a kegerator. You'd probably need around 9' of it when serving at 10-12 psi, and 34F.

Although a bit more advanced and involved, if you really want better beer coming from your taps, I'd recommend using 4mm ID (8mm OD) EVA Barrier line. Use for both beer and gas lines. It helps prevent your beer from (slowly) oxidizing.
You'd also need the special push-to-connect fittings and adapters. And quite a bit of handiwork to retrofit it all.

At least look into it, and if you're confident you can do it, go for it. There are many threads here on this forum to help guide your way.
I will definitely look into the barrier line. Will I be able use existing faucets and TAPS or could I convert the ones I have?
 
That makes sense..

Beholder, I sure appreciate your help. If your ever in Vegas, let me pour you a beer (Might have a little foam :) ) :bigmug:

On a side note, I will check the line length as you suggested.

Thanks again..
The one time I had no beer/crazy foaming when actually getting beer out the faucet it turned out the check ball in my sanke tap was stuck down. Sometimes I would get fine beers. Other times I’d pull the tap and get nothing. When it did pour beer it would be mostly glass of foam. When I finally discovered the check ball stuck after much swearing and choice words, I totally disassembled and cleaned the tap. I haven’t had issues with it since.

Just another option to try if your problem of no beer comes back and you’re certain you have gas pressure.
 
I will definitely look into the barrier line. Will I be able use existing faucets and TAPS or could I convert the ones I have?
There are ways to connect the (narrow ID) EVA Barrier line to existing (barbed) shanks. It's either by stretching the line, by using heat and a swaging tool, to widen up the first inch, or using some form of adapter to connect to the 6mm OD barbed fitting.

IIRC, they now make non-barbed tap-tower shanks that are directly compatible with a push-to-connect (ptc) fitting. Your existing taps would work fine with those newer shanks, it's just the tail piece that was modified from a barb to a standard (straight) ptc connectable end.

Those ptc adapters are made by John Guest and Duotight, there may be others. IIRC, Acetal is the preferred polymer they're made of, when used with beer. Just be careful not to over-tighten flare connections especially where one end is brass/stainless and the other is plastic, the latter will crack, and cause leaks (or worse).

There is much detail in many of those threads dealing conversions to EVA barrier line.
 
Eva line is not needed if you don't let your beer sit for a month in the lines. Hype. Air AINT GONNA GO INTO A PRESURIZED LINE 10 TO 20PSI ABOVE AMBIENT AIR PRESSURE. AINT HAPPENING
 
Bull....I understand partial pressures fine.
besides, you couldn't taste that minimal oxidation if you wanted to.... just another higher cost option. CAPS Got your attention....
 
Related question to the OP's about the regulator. I have mine pouring three taps from a splitter, so sometimes the pressure drops significantly when one tap is used or not at all when another is used. It creeps very slowly when adjusted, so I can set it for 10PSI@36F, and then come back to it at 13-15PSI an hour later. Or pour off a couple of pints from one tap and see it drop to 0, and then take an hour or so to go back up. It never bounces right back. Does that sound like a rebuild?
 
Related question to the OP's about the regulator. I have mine pouring three taps from a splitter, so sometimes the pressure drops significantly when one tap is used or not at all when another is used. It creeps very slowly when adjusted, so I can set it for 10PSI@36F, and then come back to it at 13-15PSI an hour later. Or pour off a couple of pints from one tap and see it drop to 0, and then take an hour or so to go back up. It never bounces right back. Does that sound like a rebuild?
Maybe, but it could also be sticking check valves in your splitter, since this would prevent the regulator from seeing the pressure drop.

Though this doesn’t explain the pressure overshoot issue. That one might very well a number of things from temperature effects to over carb issues - hard to diagnose without a but more info of symptoms.
 
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