Cheap Sanke Keg fermenter Conversion kit (Completed!)

[JuanMoore]

Ya I'm looking to add QD to the gas/spunding side. Home Depot didn't have what I needed. I want barbed air hose connections. They don't have the male side barbed. I don't want to make it because it adds seams that can fail. I'll find some or order them line. I'm looking for whats in the photo.

FWIW I had that type of QD on my original CO2 manifold for my keezer, and learned the hard way that they are very prone to slow leaks that are near impossible to track down, especially if there's any lateral pressure on either of the fittings.

So it can be done for under $50 for everything. That means you can have a bad ass fermenter for less than the sankey converter offered on the internet. Not bad!

Or if you have the headroom, it can be done for the cost of a sankey coupler (~$30 new, $15-20 used) and with zero labor.

 

[30Bones]

Or if you have the headroom, it can be done for the cost of a sankey coupler (~$30 new, $15-20 used) and with zero labor.

That's what I was thinking also

 

[insanim8er]

FWIW I had that type of QD on my original CO2 manifold for my keezer, and learned the hard way that they are very prone to slow leaks that are near impossible to track down, especially if there's any lateral pressure on either of the fittings.



Or if you have the headroom, it can be done for the cost of a sankey coupler (~$30 new, $15-20 used) and with zero labor.

That's what I was thinking also

First off the cost of a coupler is more than the parts to do this, and labor? Really... Brewing beer is more labor than making this adapter.

But more important we've gone through this in a prior post... A sankey coupler is too bulky for my needs. If it's not something that works for you, and you already have the answer, move on to the next posting. I don't even understand why you waste your time looking at something that you don't need. I'm not trying to be an A, but let's keep it on topic and add helpful info on the topic at hand.

Spite all that a coupler doesn't work for everyone since there is a $80 + adapter that I've seen sold out a few tines... So let's get over it and move on.

Also since you're so in love with couplers, I have about 4 I'll sell you pm me.

 

[Komocabo]

This is a simple, cheap and functional build. I love to modify things, so.it's right up my alley AND I had 2 spears lying around...

Question: I am wondering how easy it is to remove so that you could easily dryhop. I tore apart one of my spears last night cuz I was bored, and also your build inspired me. (Yes a coupler would work, but tinkering is just so much fun!) I can't find a wire hanger in the house, so I thought about using the metal ring that came with the keg, but it's a pain in the arse to install and remove.

I am thinking about using this concept for racking to kegs as I like the forced CO2 idea. Additionally, I can have one with a blow off tube set up... It was fun to enjoy a homebrew and play with the parts.

 

[insanim8er]

Question: I am wondering how easy it is to remove so that you could easily dryhop

Mine is easy to remove. I pinch the coat hanger and it pops out. Then I twist the whole thing and lift up... But I plan on dry hopping by transferring to a corny keg that had the dry hopper in it and air purged out. Then transfer to a serving keg. this keeps everything sealed from the time you pitch to the time it hits a glass.

 

[hepkat701]

Making mine next week. Would do it this weekend but I'm working on my still. Going to make two of these. Still have concerns about cleaning them but it seems quite a few people do it this way...

 

[insanim8er]

Making mine next week. Would do it this weekend but I'm working on my still. Going to make two of these. Still have concerns about cleaning them but it seems quite a few people do it this way...

You should be ok just use a keg brush PBW. Also keep it clean after you rack.

 

[insanim8er]

I have ten gallons of nut brown, that I brewed up on Friday, fermenting away in two kegs. The spunding valves are holding pressure. Everything is working according to plan... So far.

I may close off the valve before I hit my final gravity to force carbonate the beer naturally. Will see...

 

[insanim8er]

Fermentation is going strong. I closed off the valves this morning and within a few minutes it was up to 10 psi (on one keg. The spunding valve on the other is leaking from the pressure release part. I hopefully got it fixed)

I read that 5 psi is good for yeat growth, but 15 psi is where it should be during fermentation. So I'm going to let it get to 15 and see how it goes.

Edit: it hit 15 psi... I set the spunding. Now it's slowly leaking air at a stable 15psi.

 

[Huaco]

Wouldn't an extended fermentation at 15psi over carbonate your beer with gasses that could potentially have off aromas in them? Thought the idea of the spunding was to hit carb levels right at the end of fermentation.

 

[insanim8er]

Wouldn't an extended fermentation at 15psi over carbonate your beer with gasses that could potentially have off aromas in them? Thought the idea of the spunding was to hit carb levels right at the end of fermentation.

65f at 15psi = ~1.7 volume so it'll actually be in range for a brown, but on the lower side. I'd prefer to be on the higher side 2 to 2.1

From what I read, they open the valve 100% until co2 starts (about a day or so). Then it's sealed to 15psi until it's a few points from final gravity. Then they seal it 100%

The beauty of a spunding valve is you can also use it to depressurize over carbonated beer.

This is all experimental for me, so I'm not expecting any awards for this batch.

 

[JuanMoore]

Wouldn't an extended fermentation at 15psi over carbonate your beer with gasses that could potentially have off aromas in them? Thought the idea of the spunding was to hit carb levels right at the end of fermentation.

Depends on the yeast strain, but pressurized fermentation generally decreases the formation of esters, fusels, and some other off flavor compounds, but it can increase sulfur production in some strains. The main reason myself and several others use spunding valves is to take advantage of these properties, not to carbonate the beer. In fact, I don't even use my spunding valve to carbonate the beer, although it does obviously come out of the fermenter with more carbonation than beer fermented without any head pressure.

I've read that this is the method Rogue uses to create the clean Maibock flavors in their dead guy ale while using an ale yeast and fermenting at ale temps. I don't know if this is true or not, but it certainly makes sense based on my experiences with it.

Pressurized fermentation is also used to enable fermentation at higher temps without many of the normally associated off flavors. This can allow faster fermentation, and faster grain to glass turnaround.

 

[insanim8er]

Depends on the yeast strain, but pressurized fermentation generally decreases the formation of esters, fusels, and some other off flavor compounds, but it can increase sulfur production in some strains. The main reason myself and several others use spunding valves is to take advantage of these properties, not to carbonate the beer. In fact, I don't even use my spunding valve to carbonate the beer, although it does obviously come out of the fermenter with more carbonation than beer fermented without any head pressure.

I've read that this is the method Rogue uses to create the clean Maibock flavors in their dead guy ale while using an ale yeast and fermenting at ale temps. I don't know if this is true or not, but it certainly makes sense based on my experiences with it.

Pressurized fermentation is also used to enable fermentation at higher temps without many of the normally associated off flavors. This can allow faster fermentation, and faster grain to glass turnaround.

Yup...I do think commercial breweries use it more for lagers. Since They can ferment under higher temps, faster and still come out with the flavor profile as if they were properly ferment with out pressure. I've read some will also increase the gravity along with heat (under pressure) then dilute back to the proper ABV once finished.

I'm just experimenting this time, but I'd like to be able to take full advantage of the fermenting benefits as well as carbing beer to save on co2.

 

[insanim8er]

Total success!

I just finished transferring 10 gallons from two different kegs. I had some user error issues on the first keg, forgot to depressurize my corny keg before I hooked it up, so I stirred the yeast up pretty good... But the second one was a smoother transfer.

I will be adding QD to the gas side. It was a bitch trying to swap out the spunding valve for co2. But the liquid side worked out fantastic. There was no issue with the beer coming up the hose during fermentation.

 

[Huaco]

Nice.
I like the idea of transferring under pressure. The addition of the liquid qd is awesome. So why not just put a gas QD on the spunding setup. That way you can place it on the gas post of the keg and control your pressure and run rate into the keg.

I will be adding QD to the gas side. It was a bitch trying to swap out the spunding valve for co2. But the liquid side worked out fantastic. There was no issue with the beer coming up the hose during fermentation.

Umm...

Haha... glad to hear it worked out well for the most part. I think your addition of a QD at the spunding will be awesome!

 

[insanim8er]

Umm...

Haha... glad to hear it worked out well for the most part. I think your addition of a QD at the spunding will be awesome!

Yup it was always the plan, but I didn't want to pay for parts if this whole thing failed. I'm like $5 into it, so since it works, I'll pay $20 to finish it up.

I'm also going to get a couple more solid stoppers. When I soak the kegs in oxy or PBW, I want to seal it back up. So I'll swap the bung and seal it up to soak a few days...

I always found the fermentation part to be the worst... It's unbelievable how easy and awesome this little set up is. I'm kicking myself for skipping on two slim 1/4 kegs on CL. I really want 2 more.

The only other thing I really want to do is add a QD directly to the racking cane.

I didn't think it was needed; however if I do it that way, I can add a picnic tap to draw samples for testing the gravity. And I won't have to worry about the wort in the hose. I can use the same tap to blow off the yeast.

 

[Komocabo]

I built mine (a little differently) and the beer is fermenting now. Works amazingly, and was a fun, cheap build. I used a metal spacer, not a washer. Will need to replace that with a stainless washer as the one I am using has a little corrosion now. Nothing is touching the beer, So I'm not worried for this round... but will be making a stop at Home Depot to replace.

Great concept!

 

[ultravista]

How do you clean and know that it's clean between batches? The sanke opening is small.

 

[Huaco]

When I ferment in half bbl Sankey kegs, they come clean easy with the use of my carboy/corny keg cleaner. 5 gallon bucket, pond pump, pvc nozzle.
Set keg on top with hot water and oxyclean in the bucket. Turn the keg upside down on the assembly and let it run a while. It helps if you go ahead and dump and rinse as much trub as you can. It just keeps your pump water cleaner.

 

[Photopilot]

Awesome project. I am making one right now. Did you use a stainless washer? If so where did you find it?

I also like this thread for the addition of the keggle sealed top design on page two. I am hoping my welder can copy that as that is the most elegant way to seal it I have seen.

 

[insanim8er]

Awesome project. I am making one right now. Did you use a stainless washer? If so where did you find it?

I also like this thread for the addition of the keggle sealed top design on page two. I am hoping my welder can copy that as that is the most elegant way to seal it I have seen.

I didn't bother with a SS washer since it doesn't go inside the vessel. I just got a zinc coated one at home depot.

Yes, the keg fermenter lid is the best way if it's possible for you to do it... the draw back is it requires two kegs to make it.

The idea is to cut the lid out of a keg to convert it into a keggle for boiling. You'll cut that lid about 12.5" dia. The fermenter keg needs to have the hole cut smaller than the keggle--at about 12" dia--then you use the keggle lid as the fermenter lid. That way you have the lip for the gasket to seal it.

I also saw an instructable on how to make silicon gaskets for the lid. http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-silicone-O-rings-and-tubing/

 

[Photopilot]

Yes, the keg fermenter lid is the best way if it's possible for you to do it... the draw back is it requires two kegs to make it.

I also saw an instructable on how to make silicon gaskets for the lid. http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-silicone-O-rings-and-tubing/

I have been stuck a while trying to figure out how I want to make this keg fermenter setup. Ever since I opened up a few kegs and realized they were disgusting inside. I have some big o-rings coming. I have tons of lids around and cut a smaller hole out of a Coors keg, then spent a while scrubbing out the keg with lime-away to make it something I would put my fresh wort into.

 

[johns]

bump

 

[Photopilot]

bump

So I made one and it worked very well. I tested it up to 8psi.

Some issues I had in building was getting the washer pushed down onto the bung and rotated into place. In order to make this easier I drilled two holes on either side of the washer. The holes are the exact size of the tips of my needle nose pliers. By opening up the pliers and putting the tips in the holes allows me to push down on the washer and rotate it into place to be under the tabs.

 

[insanim8er]

So I made one and it worked very well. I tested it up to 8psi.

Some issues I had in building was getting the washer pushed down onto the bung and rotated into place. In order to make this easier I drilled two holes on either side of the washer. The holes are the exact size of the tips of my needle nose pliers. By opening up the pliers and putting the tips in the holes allows me to push down on the washer and rotate it into place to be under the tabs.

Glad it worked. I'm sure you'll enjoy it when it's time to rack to a serving keg.. Soon I'll be racking my second batch since using this system.

It can be a pain with the washer. What I do is spray the stopper with starsan, and push it really far in. Then the washer is very loose. I rotate the washer into place and push the stopper back up against it tight.

And if you did a good job on the holes around the dip tube and barb, it'll do a lot more than 8psi. I had mine up to 15 during fermentation.

 

[Photopilot]

Then the washer is very loose. I rotate the washer into place and push the stopper back up against it tight.

Are you using this on a normal keg or removable lid?

And if you did a good job on the holes around the dip tube and barb, it'll do a lot more than 8psi. I had mine up to 15 during fermentation.

My test was on a removable lid and the o-ring on the lid blew not your design. I am putting it to test when i brew tomorrow. I don't intend to pressure carb with it until I redesign the removable lid seal.

 

[insanim8er]

Are you using this on a normal keg or removable lid?

Ya, normal 1/4 slim sankey kegs. I've got two together. I acquired a 3rd keg, so I need to build another. I still need to get the quick disconnects together too.

 

[NinjaMedic]

So I made one and it worked very well. I tested it up to 8psi.

Some issues I had in building was getting the washer pushed down onto the bung and rotated into place. In order to make this easier I drilled two holes on either side of the washer. The holes are the exact size of the tips of my needle nose pliers. By opening up the pliers and putting the tips in the holes allows me to push down on the washer and rotate it into place to be under the tabs.

Do you have pictures? I have two kegs that no one wants back. One is going to be the keggle and the other a fermenter. I'm interested in the idea of using the top of one as the lid for the fermenter (I'll have to get someone else to do the welding for me though). If I'm not mistaken this is what you pulled off? If you have pictures of exactly how you did it I'd appreciate it. How did you seal it?

 

[insanim8er]

Do you have pictures? I have two kegs that no one wants back. One is going to be the keggle and the other a fermenter. I'm interested in the idea of using the top of one as the lid for the fermenter (I'll have to get someone else to do the welding for me though). If I'm not mistaken this is what you pulled off? If you have pictures of exactly how you did it I'd appreciate it. How did you seal it?

Look at the first few posts. There's a pic I posted with the best solution I've seem. Simple to build too.

 

[Photopilot]

Do you have pictures? I have two kegs that no one wants back. One is going to be the keggle and the other a fermenter. I'm interested in the idea of using the top of one as the lid for the fermenter (I'll have to get someone else to do the welding for me though). If I'm not mistaken this is what you pulled off? If you have pictures of exactly how you did it I'd appreciate it. How did you seal it?

I don't weld either and don't think the design on the first page here is that easy to build. I think it is very elegant and even have ways to make it even nicer, but don't know how to weld. I think if you have to pay someone to make it you might be a good bit of the way to a conical.

Here is the way I did it. I had kegs and lids sitting around already and worked with what i had around. I imagine except for the racking cane, keg and lid I already had on hand the whole thing cost about $30.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/pressurized-removable-keg-lid-457161/