Cheap compact wort pump

[augiedoggy]

I was recirculating boiling fluid so that fits the bill. I probably buy a new one for my HERMs when I finish it to recirc in the HLT. I’m going to get a chugger for the boil kettle so I can recirc boiling fluid.

Why do you need to recirculate boiling liquid? It can cause cavitation that can damage any pump. As far as sanitation recicirculating the liquid once it's over 170 has the same effect .

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

After second thought the output amperage shouldn't matter. That's the max output, but the pump motor only draws 2A.

yes same pumps .. they require 1.8a minimum power... They only use the amperage the Motor needs... You can power them with a 100amp supply and they will run the same as A 3 amp supply you can damage them with a power source capable of more amp than they need.. They do run better with a 3 amp suy than a 2 amp though because I've tried both.. The motor can draw more than 2 amps. And if your using one of those $3 cell phone style wall power adapters many of them don't actually put out the amps they advertise.. so you want to go with a bigger one. They also have a high failure rate compared to theore sophisticated power supplies.

Haha I just realized that and posted right before you did. Dunno what I was thinking before. Haven't had any issues yet with the power supply. Maybe I got a faulty pump? When I removed the motor from the housing the back of it was melted badly too (close to to where the wires go in) so it got hot as hell.

I am assuming these pumps rely on the wort to cool the pump and motor rotor? Once all the trub got into the bearing and magnet it probably locked up due to the friction then over heated. Could have been in this condition for 10+ mins as I started the pump and walked away.

That said what is the best way to strain the trub prior to pump suction? Right now I use a paint strainer bag for all hop additions and a bazooka screen upstream of the pump. The screen is almost always covered in a good bit of trub.

I'm considering installing a pickup tube that takes suction from the side of the kettle. Then cover the tube with a hot water heater SS hose. Maybe a 2ft hose so there is more surface area in case of clogging.

 

[augiedoggy]

Haha I just realized that and posted right before you did. Dunno what I was thinking before. Haven't had any issues yet with the power supply. Maybe I got a faulty pump? When I removed the motor from the housing the back of it was melted badly too (close to to where the wires go in) so it got hot as hell.

I am assuming these pumps rely on the wort to cool the pump and motor rotor? Once all the trub got into the bearing and magnet it probably locked up due to the friction then over heated. Could have been in this condition for 10+ mins as I started the pump and walked away.

That said what is the best way to strain the trub prior to pump suction? Right now I use a paint strainer bag for all hop additions and a bazooka screen upstream of the pump. The screen is almost always covered in a good bit of trub.

I'm considering installing a pickup tube that takes suction from the side of the kettle. Then cover the tube with a hot water heater SS hose. Maybe a 2ft hose so there is more surface area in case of clogging.

Funny thing was I wrote that yesterday but just forgot to hit submit so it was still in my browser this morning. It could very well have been a faulty one. I had a 24v one that stuck from time to time so I took the impeller/magnet assembly from another 12v one I dropped and snapped the head off. That fixed it so I suspect they did a poor job coating that magnet evenly and it was rubbing.

 

[Nemanach]

Why do you need to recirculate boiling liquid? It can cause cavitation that can damage any pump. As far as sanitation recicirculating the liquid once it's over 170 has the same effect .

To sterilize the pump and plate chiller. I want to chill as fast as possible after the boil to limit DMS so I sterilize during the boil. I guess I could sterilize them as the boil is starting then leave them connected the whole time.

What is your workflow for sterilizing the pump and chiller at the end of the boil?

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

For anyone interested attached is an illustration of a design similar to the tan pumps. Also attached is some info on this type of design. It's critical to not have solids enter the motor section of these pumps.

 

[augiedoggy]

To sterilize the pump and plate chiller. I want to chill as fast as possible after the boil to limit DMS so I sterilize during the boil. I guess I could sterilize them as the boil is starting then leave them connected the whole time.

What is your workflow for sterilizing the pump and chiller at the end of the boil?

Or do as many do and sterilze after the boil? That's what I've done for years with no issues.. I open my valve and let my wort fill the hose,pump and late chiller about 2 mins before I shut off the element then I start to reciculate through my plate chiller right as I shut off the BK element. Then about a minute later I start chilling... Never had an infection from this ever. Plusthe whole DMs issue isn't a factor till the wort falls below 170 anyway..

 

[Nemanach]

I want to make sure I understand your comment about DMS. Are you saying as long as you are above 170 that DMS isn’t a problem? I thought it was a problem anytime above 140 when you aren’t driving it off with the boil.

 

[augiedoggy]

I want to make sure I understand your comment about DMS. Are you saying as long as you are above 170 that DMS isn’t a problem? I thought it was a problem anytime above 140 when you aren’t driving it off with the boil.

I have never heard of dms "reforming" myself after the boil with the wort is still at near boiling temps.. You realize a lot of Aussies don't even bother chilling anymore and thier beer comes out fine.

 

[rnorman57]

Does anyone have an idea if these tan pumps would be compatible with draft beer line cleaning solution? I have a few of these pumps laying around and thinking of using for recirculating BLC solution.

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

Does anyone have an idea if these tan pumps would be compatible with draft beer line cleaning solution? I have a few of these pumps laying around and thinking of using for recirculating BLC solution.

I was wondering the same thing. Since you haven't gotten a reply I'll weigh in. I have not personally used BLC with my pumps, but I don't see how it would be an issue. The SDS (link below) states that it is corrosive to metals which is likely due to the alkalinity. However, I don't see any impact on the materials of these pumps especially given the short contact time.

If you want to be conservative though I'd wait until someone else with experience weighs in on this.

https://www.nationalchemicals.com/download/document/141

 

[rnorman57]

I was wondering the same thing. Since you haven't gotten a reply I'll weigh in. I have not personally used BLC with my pumps, but I don't see how it would be an issue. The SDS (link below) states that it is corrosive to metals which is likely due to the alkalinity. However, I don't see any impact on the materials of these pumps especially given the short contact time.

If you want to be conservative though I'd wait until someone else with experience weighs in on this.

https://www.nationalchemicals.com/download/document/141

I went ahead and built my beer line recirculation cleaning rig (pop bottle and tan pump) and it worked very well. I flushed with water so I did not leave the BLC solution in contact with anything permanently. I guess time will tell.

 

[stamandster]

Here's another one that may be a contender -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07413ZDPZ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
212f rated, seems like similar plastic material as the others.

 

[cbier60]

I have not personally used BLC with my pumps, but I don't see how it would be an issue.

Does anyone have an idea if these tan pumps would be compatible with draft beer line cleaning solution?

I haven't run BLC with my pump, but always run PBW after use, followed by water and Starsan rinse.

Here's another one that may be a contender -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07413ZDPZ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
212f rated, seems like similar plastic material as the others.

It is widely used in industry, scientific research, aerospace industry
Max circulating water temperature: 100°C
4.The pump is suitable for medium temperature 1 ℃ -60 ℃.

I'd be a little wary. There's no mention of food safe, NSF, and being "suitable" to 60°C.

 

[nealm]

I haven't run BLC with my pump, but always run PBW after use, followed by water and Starsan rinse.

It is widely used in industry, scientific research, aerospace industry
Max circulating water temperature: 100°C
4.The pump is suitable for medium temperature 1 ℃ -60 ℃.

I'd be a little wary. There's no mention of food safe, NSF, and being "suitable" to 60°C.

That's minus 60 c

 

[cbier60]

That's minus 60 c

I don't think so; that's 1°C to +60°C. My bet is that the plastic would crack way before it gets to -60°C. How often do you pump ice?

 

[jfenton78]

A few people have mentioned about having the pump seize recirculating 170 or boiling liquids. Which is the problem I also had as I used my pump with my recirculating immersion chiller. Does anyone have similar issues or a idea on how to resolve it?

 

[augiedoggy]

Here's another one that may be a contender -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07413ZDPZ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
212f rated, seems like similar plastic material as the others.

totally different material... the tan pumps are made of PPS which is an extremly hard stable plastic even at High temps thats often used for high temp food applications... the magnet is also sealed. I dont thing thats the case with that pond pump. most plastics like abs are only stable below 170 degrees..

ID be super leary of using that pump... it doesnt even state what its made of just says "plastic" LOL... recycled garbage bags or deck chairs maybe..

I use mine to recirculate post boil through my chiller both pre and during chilling and never an issue but I did sieze one running it near boiling temps for a long time which was dumb and totally not needed since anything above 170 sanitizes fine.

if you try pumping trub or hops these pumps will likely clog and get stuck...

 

[augiedoggy]

A few people have mentioned about having the pump seize recirculating 170 or boiling liquids. Which is the problem I also had as I used my pump with my recirculating immersion chiller. Does anyone have similar issues or a idea on how to resolve it?

how are you filtering the trub and hops out when doing this? if your not I would look at this as a contributing factor.. any one of the 4 I use can pump 170 degree liquid all day.

 

[jfenton78]

I'm not doing any filtering at the drain, but my hops are all in a paint strainer hop sack. Do you think a filter at the drain is needed? Is so any recommendations?

 

[TANSTAAFB]

I use a Wilserbag hop sack (as well as BIAB) and have no issues with the little tan pump!

 

[TANSTAAFB]

BTW, I also use them to make cold brew coffee and to dry hop in the keg! You rock @wilserbrewer

 

[augiedoggy]

I'm not doing any filtering at the drain, but my hops are all in a paint strainer hop sack. Do you think a filter at the drain is needed? Is so any recommendations?

I use a 6" long piece of braided stainless line from a new toilet water line I cut up.. I attach this to my dip tube as a "last chance" filter in the bottom of my BK... the fact that is still plugs up with a lot of trub regardless on the 2 #300 stainless hop spiders I use and the recirculation I use to make sure the wort is clear going into the BK tells my its mainly protiens from the dissolved hops and other proteins that coagulate a bit maybe after I add the whirlflock? I dont chill back into my boil kettle and I believe if I did the braided line might plug up with much more proteins as I believe they are mainly formed in the chiller since you are using an immersion chiller you are trying to pump cold break back through the pump when recirculation and I believe this is causing your problems.

If your pump is seizing up at only 170 degrees then yeah I think some additional filtering may be needed... This is assuming your not experiencing cavitation.

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

I'm not doing any filtering at the drain, but my hops are all in a paint strainer hop sack. Do you think a filter at the drain is needed? Is so any recommendations?

Like Augie I am using a stainless steel braid hose however mine is 4' long to ensure it does not get clogged up and run the pump dry which will cause it to overheat and potentially seize. Attached is my setup, but I have yet to use it to know how it truly works. Hose cost me $8 on Amazon. Fittings for copper dip tube cost me $3 from Lowe's.

I also add all my hops with a paint strainer bag, but I have locked up a pump before using just this method. The jury is still out on if the pump seizure was due to particles or faulty manufacturing. I think a combo of paint strainer bag for hops and the braided hose will do the trick.

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

Like Augie I am using a stainless steel braid hose however mine is 4' long to ensure it does not get clogged up and run the pump dry which will cause it to overheat and potentially seize. Attached is my setup, but I have yet to use it to know how it truly works. Hose cost me $8 on Amazon. Fittings for copper dip tube cost me $3 from Lowe's.

I also add all my hops with a paint strainer bag, but I have locked up a pump before using just this method. The jury is still out on if the pump seizure was due to particles or faulty manufacturing. I think a combo of paint strainer bag for hops and the braided hose will do the trick.

Just a follow up on my setup. Overall I believe it does a good job of catching anything that will seize up the pump however even with 4' of hose it still gets clogged up towards the end of transferring wort through CFC to fermenter. At that point I have to stir or scrap the hose to prevent from losing pump suction.

 

[TravPlan]

Hi guys, first post!
After lurking and reading through this entire thread a couple weeks ago (yes, the whole thing), I decided try a couple cheap chinese pumps.
I just received 2 of these 24VDC pumps from eBay (one is just a spare): Eo56 pump
also at AliExpress: Eo56 (TK1226) pump
They claim to be food grade, I took it apart, and it looks simply and well built. It has a brushless sealed motor, 16 lpm (~4.3gpm) flow, capable of 6M of head, and male 1/2" npt ports (actually looks more like BSPP straight thread).

I will be doing my first AG batch this weekend in my single vessel keggle BIAB system. I'm going to attempt using this pump for both recirc. during mash, as well as for whirlpooling during immersion cooling. I will try to take some pictures, but either way will report the results. Thanks for all the guidance thus far guys, this is a really great community.

 

[augiedoggy]

Just a follow up on my setup. Overall I believe it does a good job of catching anything that will seize up the pump however even with 4' of hose it still gets clogged up towards the end of transferring wort through CFC to fermenter. At that point I have to stir or scrap the hose to prevent from losing pump suction.

Just saw this. Are you using a hop spider? sounds like your which is likely why your experience is different than mine.. I only have an 8" piece of braid on my bk diptube to stop the little trub that makes it into the boil.

 

[augiedoggy]

Hi guys, first post!
After lurking and reading through this entire thread a couple weeks ago (yes, the whole thing), I decided try a couple cheap chinese pumps.
I just received 2 of these 24VDC pumps from eBay (one is just a spare): Eo56 pump
also at AliExpress: Eo56 (TK1226) pump
They claim to be food grade, I took it apart, and it looks simply and well built. It has a brushless sealed motor, 16 lpm (~4.3gpm) flow, capable of 6M of head, and male 1/2" npt ports (actually looks more like BSPP straight thread).

I will be doing my first AG batch this weekend in my single vessel keggle BIAB system. I'm going to attempt using this pump for both recirc. during mash, as well as for whirlpooling during immersion cooling. I will try to take some pictures, but either way will report the results. Thanks for all the guidance thus far guys, this is a really great community.

interesting, the last time I looked at those I messaged the seller they did not claim to be food safe. Please post pictures of the impeller and magnet assembly when you open one up.

 

[MX1]

I just scored two of the tan 24v pumps for $30 shipped via "Make Offer"on thE-Bay

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

Just saw this. Are you using a hop spider? sounds like your which is likely why your experience is different than mine.. I only have an 8" piece of braid on my bk diptube to stop the little trub that makes it into the boil.

I use a paint strainer bag for my hops. It's either not fine enough mesh or it's just hot break that clogs the braid. I've been doing 5 gallon batches instead of 10 gal lately with the same filter system and it hasn't been an issue with the lower volume and less trub

 

[augiedoggy]

I use a paint strainer bag for my hops. It's either not fine enough mesh or it's just hot break that clogs the braid. I've been doing 5 gallon batches instead of 10 gal lately with the same filter system and it hasn't been an issue with the lower volume and less trub

Do you chill in one pass to the fermenter or are you also getting cold break in the brew kettle?