Cheap compact wort pump

[augiedoggy]

Update on mine, having trouble with the first run. Doesn't seem to push anything unless from something like a faucet pushing it through. Anyone else get this issue?

sounds like something is wrong. This is after you have primed the pump? my guess is somethings wrong with the power supply... how many amps is it and is it the correct voltage? less on either one and the pump may run but likely very weak and fizzle out under load.

 

[scaesare]

my chiller is mounted about 5 ft lower than the top of my conical and it has no issues pumping through the chiller and up to the top of the conical- even when turned way down in power.

Similar... I've pumped uphill 4-6 feet on occasions without issue.

 

[GHawk]

For anyone making a decision to go this route using these pumps I have a comment on the placement.

I got my order yesterday and played around with one today.
I connected 1/2" ID to both in and out side, filled a keggle with enough to cover the outlet valve and set the pump on the floor. I opened the valve and water flowed down yet it had trouble. In fact, I had trouble keeping water in the lines as I raised and lowed above and below the water level.

I attached the pump directly to the valve and only needed one hose. Opening the valve the water flowed directly and never retreated.

These pumps have very thin and fragile ports and look like they will snap with the least bit of pressure, as many have experienced.

Quick disconnects and direct valve positioning may be the best.

 

[stever1000]

my chiller is mounted about 5 ft lower than the top of my conical and it has no issues pumping through the chiller and up to the top of the conical- even when turned way down in power.

Perfect, I am less worried now

 

[augiedoggy]

Quick disconnects and direct valve positioning may be the best.

I totally agree with this... once primed I never had any issues with these pumps pushing liquid... I say push because sometimes people forget these pumps do not pull liquid well and they should always be at level or lower than the supply they are pumping from. valves should also always be on the output side of the plumbing.

 

[Murphys_Law]

Quick disconnects and direct valve positioning may be the best.

This is how mine is set up and it works well.

 

[aangel]

Does anyone have tips on maintenance / fixing of the little tan pump? Mine is super, super finicky. I've taken it apart and cleaned it out but the insides seem to be pretty wobbly / not want to move well.

 

[Mojzis]

Make sure the disc behind the prop is flat. Also make sure it's not snug against the pump body when you put the head back on. 99% of the time these are the cause for me.

 

[Bigfly]

My pump overheated and quit working today. This would have been the 4th batch. Now I will go with a Chugger, March, or Mark II.

 

[dstauth]

My pump overheated and quit working today. This would have been the 4th batch. Now I will go with a Chugger, March, or Mark II.

Dang, did you run it dry at all? I've gone through 30 batches using mine. I have a backup pump just in case because they are so cheap. My brew day includes a 60 minute mash using the pump in a HERMS setup. Still going strong.

 

[GHawk]

I totally agree with this... once primed

I have 3 brew sessions now using these pumps and have had the worst brew days in decades.
I ordered new stainless valves with updating various parts and quick disconnects for the pumps. I built a temporary control box to house the power supply, PWMs, and switches. (sloooow boat from China)

1st - I was excited about the entire redesign of my 3 tier gravity system. I installed a nylon false bottom into my mash tun I've had for many years and haven't really used. (I challenge anyone to find one now) I wanted to recirculate my mash for clarity then use the pump to circulate the wort through my counter flow and reduce to lower temps for hop adds. No fault of the pump the false bottom immediately clogged and I have a stuck mash. Getting a prime on the pump was 1/2 hour chore. It was connected straight to the valve in the correct fashion with a 1/2" silicone tube running back up into the mash tun. I finally got a runoff into a bucket and poured the grain into another so I could replace the false bottom with my very successful copper manifold. I re-added the grain and added the batch sparge water with no luck on priming again. I took off the pump and gravity fed to boil kettle as usual.
Same thing and the boil kettle. No prime, direct connect to valve. 1/2" tubing from outlet in the Upright position. Tubing hanging to the floor into a bucket to start a flow (normally). Open boil valve and nothing. I literally sucked on the end of the tubing to start a siphon. With all of this the boil continued well into an additional 45 minutes and all my numbers were off because of evaporation. 105 minute boil makes IBU's and volume F'd Up

2nd - I reduced the length of tubing thinking it was too long at 5' causing a challenge for a siphon. Same issues. Did get a siphon on the chiller with less length after a lot of playing around. Then I experienced the late add hop clogging issue and the pump stopped mid run. I gravity fed my fermenter, as usual. (and proven method)

3rd - Hot water only for testing.
Had all my vessels close to the same level and mounted the pump temporarily with 2 screws to my bench BELOW about 6-10 inches. I installed barbs to everything and was going to try moving the tubing from one vessel to another as needed for the pump.
Heated water in my HLT and opened the valve placing the outlet tubing in a bucket to start siphon and NO flow. I played with the height of the outlet tubing and managed to fill the pump after playing with it for several minutes, so i turn on the pump. I filled the mash tun with 3 gallons and removed the HLT tubing by pinching the tube hard so as to not loose much level in the tube. I placed it on the Mash valve and outlet side to the kettle. I opened the valve and again Not A Damn thing.

I am SO done with these pumps. I can't tell you how I really feel here on this post after the money, time, redesigning, and excitement all wasted.

If there are any suggestions I'll appreciate it. I might give it one more shot but it WON'T be brewing. Maybe another water test.

 

[Wolfairious]

Have you tried mounting them direct to the output valves? Never had a priming issue.

 

[Wolfairious]

Can't add photo.....

 

[GHawk]

Have you tried mounting them direct to the output valves? Never had a priming issue.

Thanks for the comment, but.... as stated above:

"It was connected straight to the valve in the correct fashion..."
"No prime, direct connect to valve."

 

[augiedoggy]

Thanks for the comment, but.... as stated above:

"It was connected straight to the valve in the correct fashion..."
"No prime, direct connect to valve."

all I can say is I dont have the same results at all... I did make an effort to add extra filtration so the grain isnt pumped into my pumps but besides that I use them as any non self priming pump would be used.

I think you already know why your having issues as you highlighted it.
Honestly the only reason I can see for your possible issues is your not priming them correctly... you need to displace the air in the pump and line leading up to the pump with liquid PRIOR to turning on the pump.. these dont pump or suck air... from your last example with water only the ONLY way you would get those results is if you have a large air pocket in the lines and the pump isnt primed... this would be the exactly same case if you had a $150 chugger or march in its place. the line leading to the pump and the pump itself has to be primed with water.

 

[augiedoggy]

Thanks for the comment, but.... as stated above:

"It was connected straight to the valve in the correct fashion..."
"No prime, direct connect to valve."

if you have a diptube in your kettle or the lines are run in a fashion where they and the pump remain full of air then thats your problem. some people add three way valves after the pump to let the air escape from the line so liquid can displace it. Again these work the same way as any other brewing pump and need to be primed the same way. thats why many pumps are mounted much lower than the kettles because the weight of the liquid isnt always enough to push the air out depending on plumbing.

 

[GHawk]

if you have a diptube in your kettle

This may be a factor. I can see my copper dip tube inside not filling. I could try opening the valve as I fill the vessel to remove the air.

However, I don't understand when this was never a problem over 18 years with gravity. All I did was slide tubing onto the barb and open the valve for an instant flow. What could be any difference adding the pump in line unless it's the outlet facing upward that could make a difference.
Heck, I feel like going out and setting it all up and trying it out right now!

 

[greyghost]

This may be a factor. I can see my copper dip tube inside not filling. I could try opening the valve as I fill the vessel to remove the air.

However, I don't understand when this was never a problem over 18 years with gravity. All I did was slide tubing onto the barb and open the valve for an instant flow. What could be any difference adding the pump in line unless it's the outlet facing upward that could make a difference.
Heck, I feel like going out and setting it all up and trying it out right now!

I have tried the cheap pumps
burned 3 of them up. Just bite the bullet and get a chugger and never look back.

 

[augiedoggy]

I have tried the cheap pumps
burned 3 of them up. Just bite the bullet and get a chugger and never look back.

Ok this is totally not helpful and has nothing to do with his issue...but goes a long way to show your biased opinions. Its easier to just form a negative opinion of them to help justify your chugger purchase and thats fine but it doesnt make it true. lots of people use these successfully with no problems and the fact that you burned up all three says something to indicate you might not have understood something.

Your pumps likely burned up because you powered them incorrectly or tried to pump grain with them as many have using a single false bottom or bazooka tube which doesnt catch everything.... I have been using 6 of this for almost 4 years and never had an issue so my experience doesnt jive with yours. I know I have powered and used mine correctly but I dont know what you did.

 

[augiedoggy]

This may be a factor. I can see my copper dip tube inside not filling. I could try opening the valve as I fill the vessel to remove the air.

However, I don't understand when this was never a problem over 18 years with gravity. All I did was slide tubing onto the barb and open the valve for an instant flow. What could be any difference adding the pump in line unless it's the outlet facing upward that could make a difference.
Heck, I feel like going out and setting it all up and trying it out right now!

the pump itself provides some resistance for the air to have to push through. if you had quick disconnects or a 3 way valve or even mounted your pumps a couple feet lower than the kettle you would likely not have this problem however the lower you go with the pumps the less flow you will have. (not much less however)

I moved all my pumps from the base of my kettles to my rims/chiller and stainless plumbed lines which are 6inches or more below my kettles and that helps a lot but sometimes I find myself cracking one of my quick disconnects to allow the air pocket to escape from the line. I plan on adding a 3 way valve at the inlet of one of my pumps which still gives me the same trouble as your having from time to time... coincidentally it is the pump from my HLT which does have a dig tube.

 

[GHawk]

I have tried the cheap pumps
burned 3 of them up. Just bite the bullet and get a chugger and never look back.

Hate your luck.

One reason for choosing these 12v pumps to test my system re-design was $$ driven. I don't want to sink $200 on a Chugger and fittings to find I like my gravity fed system better. (which I haven't had luck with the pumps yet) I'm about $130 all in and most are silicone tubing and stainless upgrades I needed anyway.
Only $60 on pumps and power/controls.

To be very clear about the biggest reason for me! 12v vs. 110.
I drink homebrew while I brew. It's a rule. I will not be killed over a hobby. If there's water/ wort and high voltage electricity playing in the same area.... I'll pass.

I may never choose a Chugger type pump even IF I change my design.

 

[Bigfly]

Dang, did you run it dry at all? I've gone through 30 batches using mine. I have a backup pump just in case because they are so cheap. My brew day includes a 60 minute mash using the pump in a HERMS setup. Still going strong.

Pump never cavitated lines were full when I disconnected it. I have since ordered a mark II pump. I wanted to try recirculating my BIAB and now the system needs to have a better pump.

 

[greyghost]

Ok this is totally not helpful and has nothing to do with his issue...but goes a long way to show your biased opinions. Its easier to just form a negative opinion of them to help justify your chugger purchase and thats fine but it doesnt make it true. lots of people use these successfully with no problems and the fact that you burned up all three says something to indicate you might not have understood something.

Your pumps likely burned up because you powered them incorrectly or tried to pump grain with them as many have using a single false bottom or bazooka tube which doesnt catch everything.... I have been using 6 of this for almost 4 years and never had an issue so my experience doesnt jive with yours. I know I have powered and used mine correctly but I dont know what you did.

Believe me I tried to make them work. Even had them hooked up in tandem.Powered properly with a 10 amp charger. I worked with pumps my whole work career 40 years. So I know what I am doing. I still have 4 good ones that I won't use because I can't trust them with a chugger I know it is going to work. A penny wise isn't always the best.

 

[augiedoggy]

Believe me I tried to make them work. Even had them hooked up in tandem.Powered properly with a 10 amp charger. I worked with pumps my whole work career 40 years. So I know what I am doing. I still have 4 good ones that I won't use because I can't trust them with a chugger I know it is going to work. A penny wise isn't always the best.

Well like I said something is wrong with your setup... Not sure what you were trying to pump and how far but I use one to regularly pump through my plate chiler and over 4 ft high into the top of my conicals.. no problems. and I have been using the same 3 pumps now for over 2 years with hundreds of gallons of beer now. If you search here you will see most who claimed they didnt work were trying to power them off incorrect power sources like 9v wall worts and power supplies under 1 amp. Some were using $3 power supplies that failed and no longer produced the correct current.

Perhaps the issue was from using a battery charger which is a terrible DC power source without any filtering capacitors. charging a battery doesnt require a clean true dc wavelength. Most wont work at all as a bench power supply at all. I remember people in the car audio forums burning out cb and car stereos trying to use them as a power source. most new ones have added circuitry so they wont even power on unless they detect a battery.

 

[augiedoggy]

Pump never cavitated lines were full when I disconnected it. I have since ordered a mark II pump. I wanted to try recirculating my BIAB and now the system needs to have a better pump.

I ungraded from the 12v to the 24v version a couple years ago because they are much stronger and pump 1/3 more..

 

[GHawk]

I ran another Hot Water test yesterday.
This time I set the pump on the floor and used a tubing clamp at the far end of the output hose. I started a siphon running through the pump, filled all the tubing and clamped it shut. I pinched the tubing with my fingers on the HLT valve and pulled it from the barb connecting it to the Mash Tun valve barb. A small section of air was present put I played with the tubing after turning on the pump by pinching the tubing both input and output sides and the pump pushed the air on through.
I repeated this moving from the mash tun to the kettle. Same results. I recirculated into the kettle for a while then into a bucket simulating running into a fermenter.
All in all it worked.
The key here was the pump was on the floor.

 

[augiedoggy]

I ran another Hot Water test yesterday.
This time I set the pump on the floor and used a tubing clamp at the far end of the output hose. I started a siphon running through the pump, filled all the tubing and clamped it shut. I pinched the tubing with my fingers on the HLT valve and pulled it from the barb connecting it to the Mash Tun valve barb. A small section of air was present put I played with the tubing after turning on the pump by pinching the tubing both input and output sides and the pump pushed the air on through.
I repeated this moving from the mash tun to the kettle. Same results. I recirculated into the kettle for a while then into a bucket simulating running into a fermenter.
All in all it worked.
The key here was the pump was on the floor.

As mentioned you really dont NEED to have the pump on the floor just lower than what you intend to pump. again if you put some sort of vent like a 3 way valve to bleed the air you wont have to mount them so low and loose the flow as a result.

 

[Wolfairious]

Never had an issue priming mine. The weight of the water pushes fluid right through as soon as I open the valve. Mounted direct to the valve I don't see how it could get stuck full of air. Mine are the 24v version though.
Maybe a picture of your set-up would help.

 

[augiedoggy]

Never had an issue priming mine. The weight of the water pushes fluid right through as soon as I open the valve. Mounted direct to the valve I don't see how it could get stuck full of air. Mine are the 24v version though.
Maybe a picture of your set-up would help.

you also have your outlet and hose pointing up which helps ensure there is no air pockets trapped in the line or pump. try that with the outlet turned to a 90degree orientation an the air doesnt escape as easily. instead a little water trickles through and seals the outlet hose creating a trap of air.
In my setup the pump is pushing to a rims mounted below on the front of the table so I had found the hard way that some liquid easily trickles through and then creates a trap of air unless the plumbing is setup where all the air can easily escape. my chiller pump is plumbed in a similar manner to yours and therefore I have no issues priming it.

If the pump is mounted much lower than everything eles the air is pushed right through it and the pump along with the hose leading up to it gets flooded with water.. this is why most brew pumps are mounted low under the table.

 

[Wolfairious]

try that with the outlet turned to a 90degree orientation an the air doesnt escape as easily. instead a little water trickles through and seals the outlet hose creating a trap of air.

Why couldn't you just rotate your pump a little so the outlet is facing up, just have it pump up and over a little bend in the hose before it heads down. That is what I do when I pump from my HLT to my MT. Also when I pump from my MT to my BK. I use mine on a 3 tier gravity system converted to using these pumps too. My pump connected to my MT doesn't have the outlet facing up, between 90 and 45 deg.
Hopefully you can modify your set-up to make it work. I have 4 of these pumps and never had an issue. When I was cleaning up after my last batch I found a massive chuck of leaf hops stuck in my input and it still worked fine. Hope you can get yours working, best of luck!