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Cheap compact wort pump

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The 24khz pwm controllers should work better for these pumps than the 16khz ones that have the readout on them from what I've read the higher frequency is better for driving motors reliably. I just marked reference points around the knob to function. As the readout.
 
The 24khz pwm controllers should work better for these pumps than the 16khz ones that have the readout on them from what I've read the higher frequency is better for driving motors reliably. I just marked reference points around the knob to function. As the readout.

So you keep saying. And the hum is a factor for you. And you don't like boxes because losing the prime and or springing a leak is "scary".

Quite frankly a DC motor of this (im)precision isn't really gonna notice the difference. All motors are going to have a stall point at the low end that's above 0% duty cycle.

The controller with integrated digital readout has worked just fine. And who doesn't like cool LED readouts!?! :mug:
 
I rigged this up real fast and want to show it off. See attached. Pictures may be blurry because basements are dark.

I assume everything in this picture is made in china except for the electrical tape.
Manual PWM controllers are the green boards, Digital PWM controllers are the red boards. Yes box is metal but boards are on standoffs, in a previous life it contained many Costco cookies. Pumps were given 10 ft long wires and 3 pin plugs.

IMG_20160728_080909.jpg


IMG_20160728_080936.jpg
 
I just ordered one of the "tan" pumps off eBay for recirc during chilling with my new Hydra. I'm curious how you guys sanitize the pump/hose set-up?

The pumps are rated at 100c so do you run the boil through it for a few mins, or run (or soak) in Starsan? I'm outside Denver so water boils ~202f here so I have some "padding" from the spec

I am planning on hooking the pump directly to the ball valve using camlocks and silicon hose out of pump and into the whirlpool arm.
 
That's a fine power supply but for the same price or a few dollars more you can step up to a 10 amp. You might as well. The only down side is a larger footprint in your pump box or power distribution box.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311614981831

For anyone that comes across this link I rate that power supply 1 star.
Plugged it in, fuse popped, no load. It was delivered with a broken 'seal' on the casing. That ebay seller hasn't responded to me in over 24 hours now.

I give it 1 star because it was delivered faster than a Jimmy Johns sandwich.
 
For anyone that comes across this link I rate that power supply 1 star.
Plugged it in, fuse popped, no load. It was delivered with a broken 'seal' on the casing. That ebay seller hasn't responded to me in over 24 hours now.

I give it 1 star because it was delivered faster than a Jimmy Johns sandwich.

Sorry to hear that. I know eBay can be a crap shoot.
I've generally had good luck with UXCELL stuff.
I hope your situation gets resolved quickly!
 
What are y'alls opinion on these pumps for prolonged continuous use? I'm thinking 24-36 hrs.

(Edit)
Well I ran the little pump for 24 hours straight with 155f water for a sous vide cook, didn't miss a beat.
 
So you keep saying. And the hum is a factor for you. And you don't like boxes because losing the prime and or springing a leak is "scary".

Quite frankly a DC motor of this (im)precision isn't really gonna notice the difference. All motors are going to have a stall point at the low end that's above 0% duty cycle.

The controller with integrated digital readout has worked just fine. And who doesn't like cool LED readouts!?! :mug:
Just pointing it out AGAIN just as you mentioned the controller AGAIN for the other people who might care about the functionality aspect more than the "cool readouts" I'm sure they both work but since you gave your point of view I'll share mine. IMHO these pumps arent all that big and dont have tons of extra power why give more up just for extra bling on the panel? If you want to thats cool, its your choice.. but I dont see why your getting upset when I point out w the reasons one might not want to do it as well. And yeah since a lot of people on forums are notorious for not going back and reading previous pages I felt mentioning the frequency thing again since you were also mentioning the controllers again was pertinent to the conversation. If you actually read this whole thread you will find the same questions asked and answered dozens of times in it over and over.
 
For anyone that comes across this link I rate that power supply 1 star.
Plugged it in, fuse popped, no load. It was delivered with a broken 'seal' on the casing. That ebay seller hasn't responded to me in over 24 hours now.

I give it 1 star because it was delivered faster than a Jimmy Johns sandwich.

I used the same supply... 2 of them actually since the first one I connected the power to incorrectly and the fuse blew like yours. the second one I also inadvertently shorted out about 6 months after I installed it when I had an issues with the aviation connectors wiring on one of my pumps.

I cant remember for sure but I want to say I had to break the seal and remove the cover and switch a switch for 240v because thats what I was feeding mine. I wonder if reversing the N and 120v hot lead would cause the fuse to pop in a 120v configuration?

when I contacted the ebay seller on the first supply I purchased, I explained what I did and asked if that would ruin the supply or if there was a reset of fuse inside and he (or she) promptly just sent me a new one free of charge...
 
Sorry to hear that. I know eBay can be a crap shoot.
I've generally had good luck with UXCELL stuff.
I hope your situation gets resolved quickly!

In my experience ebay has gotten a lot better due to ebays new rules about sellers with negative feedback. I usually buy from seller who have a lot of feedback though which shows they have made an effort to keep it all positive. I've bought many things from the ebay UXcell store (I had a pile of the coupons they send with the order) and never had an issue myself either.
 
I finally got my refund a day or two ago so no worries.

I did order a replacement from amazon, this was an UXCELL too. So far so good. On both units I've had to switch from 220v to 110v. The first one had an opening to the switch for easy access, the second did not. But I was able to stick a thin screwdriver threw the holes in the cover to flip the selector switch without taking the cover off.

In regard to the first one blowing, I think I must have had a lemon. I double checked and then triple checked my wiring and connections I couldn't see where I might have messed something up.

The second supply didn't come with any markings to indicate which screw terminals were which, so I just wired it up like the first one and crossed my fingers :D

Anyway, it finally worked! It and the little tan pump ran like a champ for 24 hours straight and produced a pretty good sous vide brisket.
 
Just ordered this Lil fella http://m.ebay.com/itm/152060108309?_mwBanner=1

Also bought a 24V 3 amp power supply to run it. Thinking about getting a pwm too to throttle it down if need be.
They really are small but they pump a lot for thier size! You can use a ball valve too but I just feel the pwm puts less strain on them by not using resistance against them to throttle them down.
 
Any good/cheap 110/120V AC pumps? Possibly looking for one to recirculate wort through a plate chiller.
 
Thanks to this thread (all 1373 posts!!) I've pulled the trigger on the first steps to reducing my some 16 year old 3 tier system down to a weldless brew style single tier. I was on the 3rd step of my ladder asking myself, 'self... aren't you too old to be lugging 40 pound buckets of water up here?'

Special thanks to augiedoggy for his Parts List.

I planning on going with...

12v-3a Power Supply to a

Toggle Switch breaking the current to a

PWM Controler All enclosed in a

Project Box

Butt Spliced into

12v 3a Pumps.

electrical-drawing-67539.jpg


The pumps (2) and controllers (2) should be here next week.

My questions are:

1. How hot will these switches and power supply get inside the project box?
2. What gauge wire to do all the connections?
3. If I like the setup I may add the second pump. Do I wire it along with the same posts on the toggle switch as the 1st controller?

I'm sure there will be more questions when I get to putting this together. I certainly appreciate any input and advice.
 
Thanks to this thread (all 1373 posts!!) I've pulled the trigger on the first steps to reducing my some 16 year old 3 tier system down to a weldless brew style single tier. I was on the 3rd step of my ladder asking myself, 'self... aren't you too old to be lugging 40 pound buckets of water up here?'

Special thanks to augiedoggy for his Parts List.

I planning on going with...

12v-3a Power Supply to a

Toggle Switch breaking the current to a

PWM Controler All enclosed in a

Project Box

Butt Spliced into

12v 3a Pumps.

electrical-drawing-67539.jpg


The pumps (2) and controllers (2) should be here next week.

My questions are:

1. How hot will these switches and power supply get inside the project box?
2. What gauge wire to do all the connections?
3. If I like the setup I may add the second pump. Do I wire it along with the same posts on the toggle switch as the 1st controller?

I'm sure there will be more questions when I get to putting this together. I certainly appreciate any input and advice.

Power wire does not have to be anything substantial, the 3amp power supply draws less than an amp so even 22awg would work although I used 18 myself if I remember right. Also the power supply gets warm but not hot.
 
Update on mine, having trouble with the first run. Doesn't seem to push anything unless from something like a faucet pushing it through. Anyone else get this issue?
 
At 24v, how far/high can these pumps pump? I.e. the vertical distance from the outlet, while still running efficiently and not damaging the pump?
 
At 24v, how far/high can these pumps pump? I.e. the vertical distance from the outlet, while still running efficiently and not damaging the pump?


Not sure this will help but I have a 10G kettle and a 25" IC. My ball valve is in the "standard" placement. I don't have (so far) any issues pumping approx 2 feet.

As an aside - I break down my pump after every brew and always find grain and debris in there, no matter how much I try to clean it. It doesn't take much time to remove 4 screws, clean, and replace. I think this is good practice, at least in my opinion.
 
Pumps arrived.
15 days from China to Florida.
Less than expected.
 
At 24v, how far/high can these pumps pump? I.e. the vertical distance from the outlet, while still running efficiently and not damaging the pump?
my chiller is mounted about 5 ft lower than the top of my conical and it has no issues pumping through the chiller and up to the top of the conical- even when turned way down in power.
 
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