Interesting thread:
So I wonder if this little pump would be powerful enough to pump water through 50 feet of half inch copper tubing like in my IC? And then pump water through another 25 feet of 3/8 inch copper tubing for me CFC? I seriously doubt it. I have the IC made, but I am thinking of going with a CFC and using the IC as a pre-chiller. Also I cant help wonder if a previous poster had thier question answered, about a HERMS system and if it would be strong enough to handle such configurations.
On the other hand thinking about how to provide a solution to this problem (if there really is a problem), what about having two or more of these type of pumps running in parallel. Would the head double as well as the flow rate? To my way of thinking it would, but then I am no engineer. Twice or thrice as many pumps would still be cheaper than a chugger, or even still than a march pump.
Just would like to throw that out there to see what other people think about this idea.
Because these are 12vdc it would be simple to use a voltage regulator to control the speed of the pump. Since they are not magnetic drive I probably wouldn't adjust the flow with a ball valve.
Ordered mine should be here soon I plan to run it through its paces. I already have a March 809 I would like to do a comparison (prob not much of one) but at least its a low cost option for some people.
Great idea! A simple inline potentiometer like the ones used on the diy stir plates might do the trick.
Because these are 12vdc it would be simple to use a voltage regulator to control the speed of the pump. Since they are not magnetic drive I probably wouldn't adjust the flow with a ball valve.
Not knowing what 'm talking about, but would a PWM be another solution to controlling the pump output?
thanks
tom
just picked one up.. this would make a nice addition to circulate the water around my bucket heater. I don't have the funds for a march pump right now so this seems like a fun little cost effective solution.
'picked one up' sounds like you are still waiting for delivery, right?
-fafrd
Since these are DC (direct current) and not AC (alternating current) a simple speed controller will work. You cannot do this with AC motors because it changes the wavelength of the power and it throws the timing off in the motor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Dc-Moto...797?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27cff09fc5
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-36V...692?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337a7582fc
Brushless DC electric motor (BLDC motors, BL motors) also known as electronically commutated motors (ECMs, EC motors) are synchronous motors which are powered by a DC electric source via an integrated inverter/switching power supply, which produces an AC electric signal to drive the motor (AC, alternating current, does not imply a sinusoidal waveform but rather a bi-directional current with no restriction on waveform); additional sensors and electronics control the inverter output amplitude and waveform (and therefore percent of DC bus usage/efficiency) and frequency (i.e. rotor speed).
If these are brushless DC motors, you may need more than changing the voltage to reduce the rotor speed. Anyone try it yet?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brushless_DC_electric_motor
Code:Brushless DC electric motor (BLDC motors, BL motors) also known as electronically commutated motors (ECMs, EC motors) are synchronous motors which are powered by a DC electric source via an integrated inverter/switching power supply, which produces an AC electric signal to drive the motor (AC, alternating current, does not imply a sinusoidal waveform but rather a bi-directional current with no restriction on waveform); additional sensors and electronics control the inverter output amplitude and waveform (and therefore percent of DC bus usage/efficiency) and frequency (i.e. rotor speed).
Unless you need a higher flow rate then most brewers go for the 8 watt as it is the best value. So long as the PSU outputs DC and at least 750 milliamps then it will work well with the pump, allowing you to tweak the flow rate to suit. It is also fine to restrict the flow physically with a valve, you won't burn the pump out or strain it.
DrHops said:I just bought one of the topsflo eBay pumps for $75 with free shipping. The threads are NPT 1/2 inch stainless steel. I'm still piecing it all together but I will be using a ball valve after the pump to control the flow. The valve costs $12, I'm not sure why I'd spend more or have to make something that will in effect do the same exact thing as a ball valve will. I'm somewhat handy, but sometimes simple is just better.
This is a quote from an email from the solarprojects.co.uk rep:
So you don't necesarily need a bypass valve to adjust the flow. Restricting the power (by PWM e.g. LED dimmer) or an inline valve will also work.
tre9er said:Colonel, you're controlling flow with ball valve...does this seem to be a viable option or has anyone installed a dimmer or potentiometer? I'd consider these even if just for transfer as it takes forever to move liquid via gravity.
I would love to speed up various parts of my brew day and emptying the tun via gravity takes a long time.
Surprised it takes that long to empty using gravity? How much drop do you have to the exit tubing? I am always one to speed things along but never had this issue. Does your tubing from the MT extend all the way down to the wort level in the cooler?
By the way, it is my understanding that the impeller and other plastic parts are polysulfone same as the March and Chugger pumps.
It is a plastic called Fortron as far as I know, which from a quick googling:- Polyphenylene Sulfide (i.e.; Techtron, Ryton, Fortron); seems to be another name for the same thing. It is fully food safe.
HDIr0n said:Man the wait is killing me, it has been 3 weeks since I ordered it. They must have put it on a row boat coming from China.
On another note has anybody secured these to their brew stand or some other fixture? I am thinking about using U-bolts to secure them to my stand. Also I think I am going to put a 3 way valve on them to be able to run my Brutus 20 setup.
-G
tre9er said:I'm not pump-literate, so does the ball valve need to be on the OP side to regulate flow or can it be on the IP, or does it matter?
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