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Blonde Ale Centennial Blonde (Simple 4% All Grain, 5 & 10 Gall)

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I made a slight mod to the extract recipe for my second batch. Added 1 oz of sweet orange peel at flameout, and 1 oz of Magic Hop Dust at 10 min. Just pulled a sample since primary is complete and it has a little more punch than the original which is exactly what I am going for. Hope the final product turns out as good as I think it will be.
 
Just kegged this today. Did a few modifications (1 oz Centennial, 2 oz of Cascade, added lemongrass to the end of the boil). OG was 1.050, FG was 1.010, ABV 5.3%. Color was great (SRM 4.6), tasted crisp (even flat, IBU of 55.6 which is higher than original recipe). This only spent a week in the primary, a cold crash, I know I probably could've let it sit a while longer, but I was too antsy. Just bought the kegerator and all the goods, couldn't have it sitting unused without drinkable beer in it right? :eek: Green beer or not, it will be drank soon!


Let's hear how the lemongrass works out as well as your process. It seems elusive.
 
How is your abv that high? What recipe did you use? SG?

Too much DME by accident. SG was 1.058 - it was this recipe, converted to extract and for a 2.5 gallon batch, and then I only got 2.4 gallons of wort. I knew it would be a little high, then I remembered I used the entire 3-pound bag of DME instead of leaving some.
 
Too much DME by accident. SG was 1.058 - it was this recipe, converted to extract and for a 2.5 gallon batch, and then I only got 2.4 gallons of wort. I knew it would be a little high, then I remembered I used the entire 3-pound bag of DME instead of leaving some.

Okay. I just wasn't sure how that could happen with extract but now I see.
 
Brewed this yesterday for a work function at the end of the month. First time using leaf hops, too. It was so nice to not have a huge mess of hop trub at the end of the boil.

Looking forward to this one.
 
I love this recipe, easily my most brewed since it is so easy (my last online order was to make sure I could do 20 or so gallons of it :D ). The only thing I had to say is that it plays havoc with my process, somehow my efficiency is higher on every batch of this, hit 85%, a good 5 points higher than my usual... oops :cross:
 
I brewed this yesterday...had a bit of a mishap in that I brew 2 gallon batches and after I scaled this recipe down, I got distracted and wrote the original hop additions from the 5 gallon recipe on my brew sheet and didn't realize I had put in nearly triple the amount of hops for my batch size until i tasted the finished wort! Whoops! Not to mention I overshot the gravity by a good 10 points...So I guess it is now a Double Imperial Centennial Blonde?
 
Brewed this today and got crazy good efficiency. I ended up with a half gallon more than planned and was still 2 points over my expected gravity. All that means is more beer for me! [emoji16]. I'll give an update in a month or so when it's fermented, bottled, and carbed!


Its spent just about 2 weeks in the bottle and I couldn't wait any longer to try one. It's a great lawnmower beer! In my notes the only thing I wrote down was to dry hop with a little cascade and/or centennial when I brew it again. And I'll definitely be brewing it again!
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Its spent just about 2 weeks in the bottle and I couldn't wait any longer to try one. It's a great lawnmower beer! In my notes the only thing I wrote down was to dry hop with a little cascade and/or centennial when I brew it again. And I'll definitely be brewing it again!
View attachment 288054

That's a good idea. I bet 1/2 or 1/4 oz dry hop would be plenty.
 
I'm seven days in on my first batch. The OG was 1.044 and I had a SG of 1.004 today. I'm not sure why it was so low, my mash temp. was right on. At least it tasted pretty good for this point in the process. Looks like I'll end up around 5.25%, not too bad.

What is the earliest anyone has bottled this, assuming steady SG?
 
Have you checked your hydrometer lately? It may be off. 1.004 is low for a beer that isn't infected.
 
Have you checked your hydrometer lately? It may be off. 1.004 is low for a beer that isn't infected.

I know, that made me concerned. It looked, smelled and tasted fine so far. My fermentation temp was on the high side of the range but not too hot.

I'll check it Tuesday and see if there's a change. A hydrometer check is in order too. It is the same one I took OG with though.
 
Have you checked your hydrometer lately? It may be off. 1.004 is low for a beer that isn't infected.


Mash temp and yeast selection play a big role in FG. I recently made my cream ale, mashed at 147, fermented with US05 and finished at 1.002 and it was fantastic! I reused the same yeast to make 20 gal of this recipe and it finished at 1.008.

I wouldn't be concerned about low FG unless it was under 1.000.
 
Mash temp and yeast selection play a big role in FG. I recently made my cream ale, mashed at 147, fermented with US05 and finished at 1.002 and it was fantastic! I reused the same yeast to make 20 gal of this recipe and it finished at 1.008.

I wouldn't be concerned about low FG unless it was under 1.000.

The mash temp was 150 and I used Nottingham. Danstar says 1.008 isn't unusual. I'm not too worried now.
 
I've just about kicked my first keg of this and it's been a huge hit. Light enough for non-craft beer drinkers but just enough flavor and body to give it something more. Perfect summer beer. I know I'll probably be excommunicated from the forum for saying so, but it's damn good with a slice of lemon in it!

Getting ready to brew another batch, maybe with 1056 just to taste the difference.

John
 
Second batch 7 days in. Just dry hopped with 1/2 oz of Cascade to see how that works out. Then into the keg in 5 or 6 days.
 
Recipe says batch size is 5.5 gal. Is that post boil volume before going into the fermentor? I'm pretty sure I'm going to give this a try this weekend. I've never made a beer this light, only doing it for friends and family. Very curious as to how much flavor it has...... Hope it's not too light...
 
I put 5.5 gallons into the fermenter. This beer gets better the longer it ages but is good after a week in bottles or keg. Still gets better with age.
 
Recipe says batch size is 5.5 gal. Is that post boil volume before going into the fermentor? I'm pretty sure I'm going to give this a try this weekend. I've never made a beer this light, only doing it for friends and family. Very curious as to how much flavor it has...... Hope it's not too light...

Don't worry it's not too light. Mine even went down to 1.007. It's kind of a malt bomb IMO.

The 5.5 is the batch size that goes into the ferementor. The .5 is to compensate for trub loss.
 
I brewed my second batch of this on Saturday, switching out the Notty for 1056. As always, I made a starter (1L per Mr.Malty), and my OG came in at 1.043 as planned, and I set my temp chamber to 68F. Fermentation started pretty quickly, showning bubbles after about 12 hours. This morning (Monday) I checked in to find a sludgy mess of yeast on top of the fermentation bucket. (This was after I had started wiping it down before cleaning out the airlock) I've never had this much yeast sludge with 1056, and I wouldn't expect if from a 1.043 beer...hopefully it's nothing to worry about.

Photo Jul 13, 7 21 34 AM.jpg
 
My second batch (only 2.5 gallons, getting started up at the new location) is conditioning in bottles right now.

I'm pretty sure this is also going to be my first recipe for BIAB (extract/specialty up until now). It would seem the relatively light grain bill will make it a good candidate, no? Feel free to chime in if you disagree: no sense making bad beer.
 
My second batch (only 2.5 gallons, getting started up at the new location) is conditioning in bottles right now.

I'm pretty sure this is also going to be my first recipe for BIAB (extract/specialty up until now). It would seem the relatively light grain bill will make it a good candidate, no? Feel free to chime in if you disagree: no sense making bad beer.

Sure it'll work for your first try. Just make sure to get your grain crushed really good. I ended with only 58% efficiency this past weekend on a different recipe and we've all come to the conclusion that the LHBS did a poor double crush. I just ordered a mill yesterday so that I don't have this problem in the future.
 
I made this beer via the BIAB method twice now. Actually all of my beers were. All have turned out great. I use the crush I get from my LHBS and get about 85% efficiency. I stir once every 15 minutes to ensure even mash temps, since I BIAB in my kettle, and I think this increase my efficiency. One concern with crushing too fine is tannin extraction. Good luck!
 
Getting ready to brew this up tonight after taking a good 2 year break from brewing, life just became too crazy. I now realize i need a homebrew to help with that :mug: I had a question about the quick primary/secondary in this recipe. 4 day primary then off to secondary? with all fermentation taking place in a little over a week. Would there be much difference in staying in primary for 11 to 12 days, then kegging and just allowing to carb up without force carbing?
 
I've made it 3 times and always did 7 days primary and 5 secondary. I did add raspberry once and it was awesome. I'm also adding chili peppers to this as well. Have fun. Great brew
 
I'm thinking about brewing this again but using .5 ounce bitter orange peel, .5 ounce sweet orange peel, and coriander .5 ounce crushed in the last five minutes of boil. Any opinions and has anyone made this in this way?
 
Getting ready to brew this up tonight after taking a good 2 year break from brewing, life just became too crazy. I now realize i need a homebrew to help with that :mug: I had a question about the quick primary/secondary in this recipe. 4 day primary then off to secondary? with all fermentation taking place in a little over a week. Would there be much difference in staying in primary for 11 to 12 days, then kegging and just allowing to carb up without force carbing?

No secondary is fine.

But a little confused with your question about carbing.

There are three basic types of carbing in a keg;

  1. Priming sugar - Just as with bottle carbing
  2. Set it and forget it - Set it to the serving pressure (generally 10-13 psi) and allow it it carb up over a week or so.
  3. Burst Carbing - Put the beer under 30psi for 24-48hrs then bleed the pressure and set it at serving pressure to finish carbing.

Both #2 & 3 above are forms of "force carbing". I assume what you meant was that you don't plan to burst carb? Which is fine.

Just thought I would catch you up on some terminology for future posts. ;)

I would also consider lengthening the fermentation to 14 days at least. That should reduce any diacetyl left in the beer.
The OP is a top notch HB'er. He can get away shorter fermentation better than those of us who may or may not set up optimal fermentation conditions for our beer.

Welcome back to the craft and good luck!!

:mug:
 
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