can someone help with 120v?

[agezzi]

It really depends on how far you are from the service breaker.
I use 12g to reduce my voltage drop since I am about 150' from the breaker.

It should be fine if you are <100' away.
Look around your house, a 1200w microwave uses 14-16g and passes UL standards.
You should be fine with 14g.

Ok I got 12/3 that will go from wall to control panel. Then got 14/3 for the control panel to the element. And I'm only about 5 feet from my breaker. The panels in the kitchen. So will that work ok and should I use stranded or solid for the inside wiring of the control panel.

 

[mredge73]

So will that work ok and should I use stranded or solid for the inside wiring of the control panel.

Yes it will work fine.
Doesn't really matter what you use inside, since it will stay put after you are done. I would use stranded to the element and to the wall.

 

[agezzi]

What's the best way to ground the element to the pot. Mine is aluminum unfortunately. Can I solder that some how. Clueless! As well can anyone help with a earlier post of mine(just a few back). Will doing it that way work out. Thanks

 

[agezzi]

ok starting the kettle today......P-J if ur out there or to anyone that will lend a comment. I played around with P-Js original to come up with this. let me know if this will work and if anything should be changed. thanks everyone for there help,couldnt do it with out you guys....cheers

 

[jkarp]

Assuming those lamps are neon (or any other sub 5mA current bulb), lamps 2 and 3 will always be on at the same time. Voltage is always present through an SSR and they typically leak enough current to light a neon or LED bulb.

 

[mredge73]

SSR typical leak current is in the micro amps, so a LED will light but not much else. I use a 1.5W incandescent where your 3rd light is and it works just fine. If your neon stays lit then replace it with a higher wattage bulb.

The diagram is pretty small so I cannot tell what switches you are using, just make sure they are current rated to handle the entire load. Also never fuse the neutral or ground wires, you have a bar on them but I cannot really tell what it is.

 

[agezzi]

ok did i get the wrong one http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=215. Should it be this one http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=218. 1st 0ne is 120v 2nd is 12v. on the website it says on the 120v its for a pid and shows the same pid i got. can i use it and how do I wire it please help stuck. i just got it all today hope i can use it,what i read in the instruction manual the pid is 12v........am i lost some were?

 

[P-J]

I'm sorry but your diagram is way to small to be able to see the details of it.
My guess is that you need the 120V version of the 1st link.

 

[agezzi]

sry on the diagram,made some changes.it still is a little small,hope you can read it. let me know. i did figure out the buzzer in another thread. thanks to everyone. will try and take pics. starting in the morn did get a chance to tonight.

 

[jkarp]

SSR typical leak current is in the micro amps, so a LED will light but not much else. I use a 1.5W incandescent where your 3rd light is and it works just fine. If your neon stays lit then replace it with a higher wattage bulb.

While your solution is right, you might want to re-check your spec sheets. Typical SSR leakage is in the 3-5mA range. A heck of a lot higher than you're thinking. Plenty to light neon.

 

[weirdboy]

While your solution is right, you might want to re-check your spec sheets. Typical SSR leakage is in the 3-5mA range. A heck of a lot higher than you're thinking. Plenty to light neon.

Well, it really depends on the particular manufacturer/model. Some of them have built-in circuits to limit the leakage current, and some don't. The ones that do typically leak current in the microamps range, but the ones that have no internal circuitry for that purpose will leak in the 1-10mA range depending upon the load.

 

[agezzi]

Hey to anyone out there I'm getting ready to seal up the PVC cap on the element. Does it matter how the terminals are wired to the element. And for the ground I took a 1 1/4 washer a brazed the ground to the washer then that goes under the black gasket that came with it. Will this work before she is sealed up. Please help. As well got the control panel ready for wires here's some pics

 

[mredge73]

I do electrical construction for a living and your box looks better than mine, good job!

A 120v element will have 1 hot and 1 neutral
A 240v element will have 2 hot and 0 neutral

Looks like you are good to go to seal it up in either case.

Note:
The plug and receptacle will be numbered, not color coded, always remember:
1 Black
2 White
3 Red
4 Green

 

[agezzi]

There is nothing that says what side to hook up the hot to or the neutral. I guess my question is does it matter what side goes where since it isn't marked does it mean the hot can go any where and then the same with neutral

 

[weirdboy]

It is basically just a big resistor. You can hook it up either way and it will work the same.

 

[agezzi]

It is basically just a big resistor. You can hook it up either way and it will work the same.

Thank you sir. I thought so but wanted to double check before sealing her up.

 

[agezzi]

Ok well not sure what to do. Sry for all the questions. I used a washer to ground the element but in doing that I won't b able to use the black gasket that came with. So it will go (from inside out) locknut, o-ring,kettle wall, washer, element. Should that still give me a good seal? Should I wrap the element threads with teflon tape? I already started to seal element. And the controls are done. Here's some pics.

Thanks again u guys! p-j u sure r respected. As well weirdboy,jkarp and mredge73. Couldn't have done it and felt safe with out ya.

 

[jkarp]

Well, it really depends on the particular manufacturer/model. Some of them have built-in circuits to limit the leakage current, and some don't. The ones that do typically leak current in the microamps range, but the ones that have no internal circuitry for that purpose will leak in the 1-10mA range depending upon the load.

In other words, you're saying to check the spec sheet.

The SSRs folks are buying from Auber do not have any such circuitry, hence my warning about the indicator lamp. Many on HBT have tripped up on that before.

 

[jkarp]

Ok well not sure what to do. Sry for all the questions. I used a washer to ground the element but in doing that I won't b able to use the black gasket that came with. So it will go (from inside out) locknut, o-ring,kettle wall, washer, element. Should that still give me a good seal?

Try it and see. Any weldless fitting takes a little tweaking to make water tight. You may have to add a little teflon tape to keep water from seeping through the threads and past the inside of the o-ring.

 

[agezzi]

One more question. What is the auto tune? And how long does it take. It's up and runnin now. But lastnight I ran auto tune for and hour. It never stopped. I set the temp to 170 and it went way over that. How do I use this feature. Dumb founded

 

[mredge73]

Takes 1.5-2H on my SETOS PID, I am sure the Auber is similar.

The first time that I tried to do the autotune, I accidently turned on the manual mode and it went way over my set point, you may have done the same thing.

 

[Walker]

Auto tuning takes different amounts of time based on the system being controlled.

I use my brewery panel to also control a DIY electric smoker. I did separate auto tunes for the two systems. The brewery took 30 minutes and the smoker took 1 hour.

Edit: then I ended up manually adjusting the auto tuned numbers anyway because the system wasn't behaving as well as I wanted.

 

[agezzi]

Ok guys thanks again. This worked great. And now I am addicted. This was way to much fun(giddy like a child) I did already brew with it. Sry for no pics of brewing. But I did get some of the kettle, controller and beer. I think it turned out rather nice! Now to move and do a complete set up when 240v is available.

 

[weirdboy]

How did it go for heating things up? How long did it take to get up to strike temps?

 

[agezzi]

Well when I heated my strike water it took about 35 mins to hit temp. Time isn't a big deal for me. The control was great, set it and walk off. My brew day was cut by at least by an hour or more. For the boil I had a portable 8in hot plate. Set it on medium, medium high, and the used the pid on manual mode at 85%. Seem to b the sweet spot, kept a pretty continues boil. At 75% u could see it pluse.

 

[P-J]

This image (I think) shows your input power cord to your control panel.

This one shows your power inlet on the panel.


I believe you need to change that configuration as it can put you at serious risk. When the cord is plugged into the wall, there is raw power available to touch with your hands on the other end of the cord. That is a Really Bad idea, IMHO.

You should put a standard cord outlet on the end of the cord and then change the panel outlet to a flush male inlet plug configuration.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8036k2

Wishing you the best.

P-J

 

[mredge73]

Echo that, never leave power on the male end.

What is that you sealed your element with, I haven't sealed my RIMS element yet and that looks pretty good?

 

[agezzi]

I used a 1 1/4 pvc cap,drilled hole for cord. wired the element then used liquid tape to seal the terminals. Then took a 1 1/4 washer over the element threads, soldered the ground to the under side of the washer. jb welded that to the hex on the element. once dried i filled the cap with epoxy and set the element inside the cap( i did have to take carve out a area on the inside of the cap to make room for the ground wire) that makes the washer sit on top of the cap. when the epoxy set i jb welded the washer to the cap. I did not use the black gasket that came with the element.

To pj thanks for looking out for me. I did plan on getting that for the in side, but my dumb a** forgot to order it. So in a pinch i just bought another outlet... I am very carefull when using it. i never unplug the controls in tell its unpluged form the wall. as well as in plugging it in.

Here is a question tho, when i was looking on amazon i saw this plug for 20a 250v. will this work: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AUAL0G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 or should i go with this one its a bit more put says 120v 20a: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AUQ61O/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[P-J]

...
To pj thanks for looking out for me. I did plan on getting that for the in side, but my dumb a** forgot to order it. So in a pinch i just bought another outlet... I am very carefull when using it. i never unplug the controls in tell its unpluged form the wall. as well as in plugging it in.

Here is a question tho, when i was looking on amazon i saw this plug for 20a 250v. will this work: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AUAL0G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 or should i go with this one its a bit more put says 120v 20a: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AUQ61O/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Either one will work for you but I'd get the part that matches the power that you are using so that there is no possibility of mistakes later on. I posted a link for one from Mcmaster as well. You also need the matching cord end.