Can I put my BIAB directly on the heating element?

[specialkayme]

Have you thought about a remote probe thermometer?

I have a port on the kettle ready for a thermometer. I just haven't gotten around to ordering it yet.

I agree that I'm losing temp by opening it up. But it still doesn't explain the heat loss over 60 min when I don't remove the lid or open it up.

 

[specialkayme]

I wonder if the headspace is playing a role?

Probably does. I just wouldn't have imageined that factor alone would account for that level of continuous loss.

Also, have you tried throwing the sleeping bag in the dryer to heat it up before hand?

I hadn't thought of that. Not bad of an idea.

 

[specialkayme]

Get yourself a false bottom to keep the bag from contacting the element.

My kettle is 15.75" in diameter, and I'd need a 3.5" lift off the bottom to clear the element. Best fit brewhardware.com has is a 14.75" with a 4.25" lift. But it has a foot in the direct center, which won't work as it'll contact the element.

But assuming I found a different one that would work, wouldn't turning the heating element up to 35% power create more of an intense heat that's concentrated on the bottom, scorching the grain?

 

[specialkayme]

my guess here is inaccurate temp readings, this makes no sense otherwise.

The javelin thermometer is pretty accurate. It calibrates exactly to frozen and boiling water, and has been accurate on all of the meats that I grill out. So I don't think it's the thermometer.

My readings are always taken 3" below the surface of the water in the dead center of the kettle. Both the first and the last readings are taken in the same spot. So if it was an inaccurate temp reading process, wouldn't it show off readings on both checks, and not just one? Or if the spot that I checked wasn't a true representation of the actual temp in the kettle, would it make sense that the spot that I checked was 7-10 degrees of deviation from the temp a foot further down? That doesn't make sense to me either.

 

[Kharnynb]

if you don't mix well, the water on top will be hot water, but the grain and water will not have equalised their temperature.

of course, after an hour the temp will have evened out all over the kettle by simple time mixed.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Before I went to a basket I used a bag with the element on. It works, but not well. Some tips:

1. I experienced a big gradient between the temperature in the middle of the grain bed and the edges/top. If I measured the top right after I opened the lid it would show a loss of 10f, then I'd stir with my big whisk and the temp would even out to a loss of only 3-4f.

2. If I wasn't actively stirring the mash when I turned on the heat it would boil and thump against the element (even at 15%). The grain is a good insulator so all the heat gets trapped right there.

3. Stirring and heating every 15 minutes was a bit of a pain in the ass.



Switching to a false bottom would be easier, but it won't get around the issue of stirring. Your insulation set up looks pretty good, I might not spend much money improving that since at some point you're likely to upgrade from the still dragon to an actual temp controller.

 

[BeardedBrews]

My kettle is 15.75" in diameter, and I'd need a 3.5" lift off the bottom to clear the element. Best fit brewhardware.com has is a 14.75" with a 4.25" lift. But it has a foot in the direct center, which won't work as it'll contact the element.

But assuming I found a different one that would work, wouldn't turning the heating element up to 35% power create more of an intense heat that's concentrated on the bottom, scorching the grain?

Having the legs touching the element won't hurt it, but the Brew Hardware legs are also removable. You can slightly bend the element out of the way too.

 

[Bobby_M]

Are you measuring losses in an actual mash or was it only based on a water test? Huge difference. What temp do you target for strike water?

 

[hezagenius]

The brewhardware 14.75 in a 15.75 works well. That's my configuration. Take up any slack in your bag on the outside of the kettle and you are good. And you can slide the false bottom to cover all of the element if you are worried. The foot in the middle is not necessary. It will hold the weight with the 4 outside legs.

If you want to set it and forget it scenario, you should try recirculating during the mash

 

[specialkayme]

1. I experienced a big gradient between the temperature in the middle of the grain bed and the edges/top. If I measured the top right after I opened the lid it would show a loss of 10f, then I'd stir with my big whisk and the temp would even out to a loss of only 3-4f.

Interesting. I'll have to check that out.

Your insulation set up looks pretty good, I might not spend much money improving that since at some point you're likely to upgrade from the still dragon to an actual temp controller.

Yeah, I was hoping to avoid that. But if I want to get the results I'm expecting, I realize I'll need a false bottom, a more advanced temp control system, and a recirculating pump. In due time I guess though.

 

[specialkayme]

Are you measuring losses in an actual mash or was it only based on a water test?

Both. Post #6 is mash heat loss. Post #24 is water heat loss (with the element on to some degree).

What temp do you target for strike water?

I'm brewing at the moment. I just took 31 quarts up to 161.0 degrees, mashed in, and had an initial mash temp of 151.6 degrees.

I'm going to wait 30 min, mix vigorously, and take a temp. If I need to, I'll lift the bag off the element and heat for about a min or so, and finish a mash for another 30 min.

 

[specialkayme]

I waited 30 min and rechecked. The temp read 146.4 (or a 5.2 degree loss in 30 min). I stirred vigorously, and it read 141.3 degrees. Not really sure what to do with that.

Anyway, I lifted the bag and turned the heat element on for a few min. Got it back up to 152.6 degrees, let it sit there for 30 min, and at the end it was reading 149.0 degrees (I didn't stir it up again).

 

[Jayjay1976]

Mash temps are much more forgiving than you would think. Don't fret over a few degrees loss during mash, the most important starch conversion takes place in the first 10-15 minutes anyway. I used to beat myself up about overshooting steps when I was brewing on the stove top but I made some pretty good beers. When I started brewing on my electric BIAB setup I learned quickly that excess stirring was counter productive. A few swirls with the paddle to stir from bottom to top is all that is necessary, then cover it up and leave it alone. Remember, if you stir it more than three times, you're playing with it.

 

[kondi]

When I started brewing on my electric BIAB setup I learned quickly that excess stirring was counter productive.

In what way was it counter productive? Does your eBIAB system has pump assisted wort recirculation?

 

[Jayjay1976]

In what way was it counter productive? Does your eBIAB system has pump assisted wort recirculation?

If you BIAB with your full water volume the mash will be thin and very efficient. Not to mention the finer crush speeds up conversion of starches to sugars. Excessively stirring accomplishes nothing more than cooling the mash. I do have a pump but I no longer use it during either single infusion or step mashes because ramping up happens faster if I just leave the lid on and give it a quick stir every few minutes. If I stir constantly with the lid off, heating up to the next rest temperature takes a lot longer but YMMV.

 

[WyattH]

Where does one find a false bottom to fit over the ssbrewtech halo heating element for a 20 Gallon ekettle? I found this one Stainless Steel False Bottom for Brew In a Bag (BIAB) - 17.5'' Diameter but it's out of stock.

Thanks!

 

[Cammanron]

I do single infusion, single vessel eBIAB, with a mesh bag, a 5500 ULWD heating element and a dragonstill controller. I typically get my strike temp, kill the element, mash in, and wrap the kettle in a sleeping bag.

Despite my best efforts, I still end up losing 8-12 degrees per hour during mashing on average (depending on the time of year). I'm looking to get a little bit more control over mash temps and keep it a little more consistent. More insulation seems like a pain.

Would it be possible to heat my strike temp, kill the element, mash in, then turn the heating element onto something like 5% power, just enough to reduce some of the heat loss?

I haven't tried it yet, for fear of losing a bag and/or a heating element. I know if I crank the element up I'll burn the bag. But at something like 5%, with a ULWD element, can I get away with it? I heard you can put a nylon bag directly on the SS Brewtech halo element without burning it, and I'm not sure if it's a special element, special controller, or something else that enables you to do that.

I use a double layer of this
Reflectix

It goes without saying, don’t use flame or heat on it.

 

[Bobby_M]

Where does one find a false bottom to fit over the ssbrewtech halo heating element for a 20 Gallon ekettle? I found this one Stainless Steel False Bottom for Brew In a Bag (BIAB) - 17.5'' Diameter but it's out of stock.

Thanks!

I guess one option is to wait for it to get back into stock. Should be about 2 weeks out.

 

[WyattH]

I guess one option is to wait for it to get back into stock. Should be about 2 weeks out.

Thanks for the update! I'll definitely keep my page refreshed every day. I need it because my grain in my brew bag was getting stuck under the element and I believe a false bottom would help even out with the mash while paddling of it. I got tired of lifting every side of the brew bag so I could mix the grain as thoroughly as I could.

 

[Jayjay1976]

I have one of those false bottoms from brewhardware, it's awesome quality and keeps my bag safely away from the heater elements. In my application, the two crossed elements made it necessary to remove the center leg, it's still super strong and has not shown any bending or sagging after 50+ batches. Great piece of equipment.

 

[WyattH]

I guess one option is to wait for it to get back into stock. Should be about 2 weeks out.

I'm happy they are back in stock! Purchased!