12 psi @ 62F will end up being flat and under carbonated for most beer styles. Before it finishes fermenting, you might want to increase the pressure on your spunding valve.
I meant to keep it at 12PSI during fermentation and reconnect it to a tank for actual carbonation at roughly 38-39f after a crash. I know that the 12@62 won't carb it. Using Co2 from fermentation to carb a batch is another process for another day after I know I know what I'm doing with just pressure fermentation in general. Not trying to learn too many things at one time, done went and did a lot of stupid things to my brain in my younger years, gotta be gentle with it these days
^^^What T Murph said.^^^ The easiest way to carbonate is to let the fermenter do the work for you. You're at the right starting point with 12 psi already set, so when you start chilling (assuming you still have some fermentation still occurring) is to gradually dial in a new setting on the spund as the temperature falls. By the time you get to say 38F for serving, the beer will have cleared and the carbonation level will already be exactly where you want it. Also, the CO2 in your beer will be "pure" CO2 with no O2, no other random atmospheric trace gasses, and no industrial lubricants, etc. If you started spunding too late, no worries. Just attach CO2 to your Gas In post at the desired serving pressure and I'll force carbonate and keep positive pressure in your tank as the temperature falls. More than one way to skin this cat.
I was reading the other day about the trace O2/other gases in Co2 tanks. I'd probably worry about it more if I liked hop forward beer or could keep a keg around long enough to stale, lol. Between friends and neighbors I can't oxidize anything if I wanted to.
For the most part I'd say that "industrial" components or contaminants in bottled gases from a welding supply store are not very high on my "to worry about" list. The one exception might be using medical grade oxygen instead of disposable 'red bottle' O2 from the Big Box store to oxygenate wort before pitching yeast, but even then I don't loose sleep over it.
I think he meant he was going to degas the sample he was planning to pull. At least that’s how I understood it when he said…
I think he meant he was going to degass the sample to get a more accurate gravity reading.
For what it's worth, I haven't found it to be too much of an issue taking gravity readings from carbonated samples out of the fermenter keg. It doesn't affect the gravity much, if any.
I disagree. In a high krausening wort gas bubbles attach to hydrometers and can affect the accuracy. With refractometers or visual light devices like EasyDens, cloudiness and evolving gas bubbles definitely affect accuracy. A sample from the fermenter I took two days ago was SG 1.020/5.1P. That seemed off, so I vigorously stirred the sample jar and let it settle for 30 minutes and ran it through the EasyDens. Second reading was 1.016 SG/4.2. Not huge, but significant.
Okay then.
When I use a hydrometer I’ll twirl it in the column. A quick spin is all it takes to get rid of the bubbles that attach to the bulb.
My issues are less the bubbles on the bulb, but the massive head formed from warm partialy carbed beer obscuring the markings. I just knock it all out and worry about none of it. The only batch I've pressure fermented was a lite lager, and I know what warm flat coors tastes like from being a teenager, so no none hydro metrics are affected there
yep. that and up/down like a plunger.
I tried that, and putting the whole sample into a jar and shaking it like a teenage parent and I recommend the vigorous pour method.
I’ve tried several methods from letting a sample sit in a jar for an hour undisturbed to shaking it like it owes me money. What I’ve found works for me is to get a 2~3 oz sample in plastic cup. At 15 psi spunding pressure, the sample starts out as nothing but a glass full of foam, so I stir it with a dinner fork for a minute and let it stand for :10-15 minutes.
I have never seen a discrepancy that big. It's almost always as I expect. I let it sit a minute for the head on the sample to settle. When I take the sample from the keg fermenter, I swirl it a little in the measuring cup, but I don't take extra steps to get the co2 out of solution. Maybe I should... Maybe my beers are finishing at 1.006 instead of 1.010...but I doubt it.
Is it increasing your aromas significantly?
