burn on inside of stainless steel brewing kettle

[dmfa200]

Lol... I already got the SS wire brush for my angle grinder, so I'll use that instead of a scrubber. It is funny, but it's better to work smart, not hard. Also, I just like to experiment. If I didn't want to experiment, I would've used the SS wire brush right off the bat and not wasted my time. It would've been done in a couple minutes. However, I could only find speculation on this topic, so I figured it was time to dick around with some chemicals and document the results. I'll be done experimenting tonight, and I'll post the results soon after.

Earthbound,
You really don't want to use a stainless wire wheel.
It will create deep scratches that may make it harder to clean in the future.
The stainless scrubby would be much gentler. If that doesn't work, then resort to the wire wheel.

 

[EarthBound]

Earthbound,
You really don't want to use a stainless wire wheel.
It will create deep scratches that may make it harder to clean in the future.
The stainless scrubby would be much gentler. If that doesn't work, then resort to the wire wheel.

I suppose if I man-handled it, deep scratches would result. I would use a very steady, gentle hand that would not result with deep scratches. However, trusting your experience, I will try the scrubby first.

 

[Ace_Club]

I bought a SS wire brush for my angle grinder, and I know it will work. Regardless of all the whining, I know the keggle will be just fine.

I suppose if I man-handled it, deep scratches would result. I would use a very steady, gentle hand that would not result with deep scratches. However, trusting your experience, I will try the scrubby first.

LOL! Way to stick to your guns and not listen to all the whining.

 

[Flomaster]

go have a look at the "keg polishing thread"

maybe use one of those sanding pad to get rid of the black, then finish with the polishing pad to get rid of scratches.

you'd have the nicest looking keggle on the inside


-=Jason=-

 

[wired247]

Ive worked in brewing and food processing for a very long time. Currently I am the maintenance manager at a plant that makes ingredient cherries like the ones you find in ice cream etc. At all the jobs Ive had Ive worked with stainless steel. Its a lot tougher and more resilient than most people give it credit for. You can grind on it , you can weld it, you can polish it . You can do a lot to it that the internet experts will tell you will ruin it such as use chlorine and oxyclean etc. The plant I manage now is a sea of stainless and we use Chlorine as a sanitizer for all of our sanitizing duties. Been doing that for 75 years. I have yet to see pitting.

If it bothers you to polish, weld or grind stainless then after you are done just fill it up with some lukewarm water and dump a few cups of citric acid in and let it sit over night. Any acid will do . Dump it , rinse and you will have a freshly passivated pot. Its not magic. Its just metal.

 

[EarthBound]

LOL! Way to stick to your guns and not listen to all the whining.

Ouch! And I thought it was the keggle that got burned! I hope that felt good.

But seriously, please understand that I will quickly respect/listen to his advice because he has proven that he belongs in the DIY forum. I know this because I have thoroughly looked through his threads/posts… as well as yours. You have only proven that you have a much lower mentality/maturity than most of the people on here.

Have you actually built anything? If not, WTF are you doing in the DIY forum?






P.S. One tip... remove the sandy vag before posting on HBT. You're bringing the rest of us down.

go have a look at the "keg polishing thread"

maybe use one of those sanding pad to get rid of the black, then finish with the polishing pad to get rid of scratches.

you'd have the nicest looking keggle on the inside


-=Jason=-

It is possible but difficult (IMO) to get the almost perpendicular angle required to use one of those discs/pads because of the angle grinder’s size. The SS wire brush has a wider range of available angles to work with. I would not use the sanding one because it would be too rough, IMO. I would use the polishing one because it would definitely get the job done without being as rough. However, dmfa200 is correct with suggesting that I try my best to not rough it up (do it by hand) before resorting to the angle grinder.

 

[dmfa200]

Earthbound,
I would like to ask. What is the wire gauge size of the wire wheel?
If it's a fine wire wheel I would say to go ahead and use it.
A good test is if you can rub your hand back and forth across the bristles and they don't poke the S**T out of you they should be fine enough.

 

[Ace_Club]

Ouch! And I thought it was the keggle that got burned! I hope that felt good.

LOL.

You have only proven that you have a much lower mentality/maturity than most of the people on here.

Coming from an EE, that's rich.

But seriously, please understand that I will quickly respect/listen to his advice because he has proven that he belongs in the DIY forum. I know this because I have thoroughly looked through his threads/posts… as well as yours. You have only proven that you have a much lower mentality/maturity than most of the people on here.

Have you actually built anything? If not, WTF are you doing in the DIY forum?

You do realize that we are in the Equipment/Sanitation forum, right?

P.S. One tip... remove the sandy vag before posting on HBT. You're bringing the rest of us down.

I see what you did there.

 

[EarthBound]

Coming from an EE, that's rich.

LMAO! That is why all my engineer friends are mechies!

 

[EarthBound]

Earthbound,
I would like to ask. What is the wire gauge size of the wire wheel?
If it's a fine wire wheel I would say to go ahead and use it.
A good test is if you can rub your hand back and forth across the bristles and they don't poke the S**T out of you they should be fine enough.

0.50mm or 0.0197 in.

I'm not sure if it's fine or not, but I can rub my hand back and forth without it being too pokey.

 

[dmfa200]

It shouldn't be too rough on your kettle then.
You have any issues on how to work with stainless I'll steer you in the right direction.
I don't advocate using stuff like scrubbys and wire wheels on such things as Blichmann kettles and fermentors with a polished finish.
Not because their going to damage your stainless. Only because I wouldn't want to F**K up that slick A** finish.

 

[ToV]

The thing I have always had the best luck cleaning up stainless with is Aluminum Foil. Its harder than the dirt and softer than the steel. Works wonders on Knives, sinks and the like. Just be aware that the real nasty stuff can take some elbow grease.

 

[EarthBound]

Well, the verdict is in. Oven cleaner worked very well. I still had to scrub it just a little though.

I used Easy Off Fume Free. I would've used Easy Off Heavy Duty, but the Fume Free was 50% off. It doesn't have lye, but it still worked. I sprayed on a few layers, covered it with foil to prevent evaporation, and let it sit for a few hours. It didn't just wipe away like I hoped it would. I still had to lightly scrub it with a non-metallic 3M scrub pad found next to the steel wool in the paint aisle at lowes. The one I used is equivalent to #3 steel wool. I'll post a pic of the results later. I didn't try the boiling of water or vinegar because I just didn't think it would work.

 

[Catt22]

The most powerful Easy Off is the older liquid version that comes in a jar with an applicator brush. It's much harder to find these days. The Heavy Duty stuff in the spray can is the next best thing and the weakest is the fume free type. You do not want to get any of that stuff in your eyes and it can also cause skin burns.

 

[wired247]

Drano or better yet red devil lye . 6 oz per gallon of water.

 

[Catt22]

Drano or better yet red devil lye . 6 oz per gallon of water.

The Red Devil lye was taken off the market over three years ago because it was a key ingredient for cooking meth. You can still buy lye in bulk, but you won't likely find it on the supermarket shelves anymore.

 

[Ace_Club]

The Red Devil lye was taken off the market over three years ago because it was a key ingredient for cooking meth. You can still buy lye in bulk, but you won't likely find it on the supermarket shelves anymore.

No, but this type of product, which is 100% lye, can be found in most hardware stores (my local Ace and Menards both carry it).

 

[Catt22]

No, but this type of product, which is 100% lye, can be found in most hardware stores (my local Ace and Menards both carry it).

Thanks! I've been trying to find somewhere to buy lye in small quantities. I use it for making old style German soft pretzels. FYI, extreme caution is advised when using any type of lye. Even a very tiny splash in the eye can be disastrous. Lye will also eat through aluminum in a heartbeat.

 

[Steelers77]

I will try the oven cleaner, maybe even lye. I understand you think Steelers77's advice was fallible, but calling him a dolt is inexcusable. Many people on HBT have a lot of respect for him, so you might want to try having some, as well.

Wow! I did not know that I was getting lambasted on this site for making a suggestion. A DOLT? If you want to call me a mental retard than just do so, don't try to hide it by using vocabulary that some may not understand. Trust me, I don't mind I've been called worse!

Anyway, I was simply suggesting the use of Baking soda and vinegar because it is a proven and natural way of cleaning things; I have cleaned build up at the bottom of my kettle many times using this method. I figured he may not have wanted to use a fairly toxic chemical like oven cleaner on his kettle. Check the web there are many sites promoting this method for cleaning SS.

Glad you got your kettle clean Earthbound.

One more thing, why do people have to be so rude when expressing their thoughts. If you did not agree with my suggestion that's fine but you could say so without being so condescending. This site is not a d**k measuring contest, it's a community where we are suppose to help each other.

Cheers,

John

 

[Chefkeith]

Thanks! I've been trying to find somewhere to buy lye in small quantities. I use it for making old style German soft pretzels. FYI, extreme caution is advised when using any type of lye. Even a very tiny splash in the eye can be disastrous. Lye will also eat through aluminum in a heartbeat.

Sorry for the hijack (and I totally grabbed this off of another forum):

As lye is very dangerous, consider your own sodium carbonate (washing soda) which, while not as basic as lye, it is more basic than baking soda.
You can make your own washing soda by baking "baking soda"
The NY Times had a good article on doing this.
"The Curious Cook
For Old-Fashioned Flavor, Bake the Baking Soda"
by Harold McGee

"Just spread a layer of soda on a foil-covered baking sheet and bake it at 250 to 300 degrees for an hour. You’ll lose about a third of the soda’s weight in water and carbon dioxide, but you gain a stronger alkali. Keep baked soda in a tightly sealed jar to prevent it from absorbing moisture from the air. And avoid touching or spilling it. It’s not lye, but it’s strong enough to irritate.

Baked soda is also strong enough to make a good lye substitute for pretzels. In order to get that distinctive flavor and deep brown color, pretzel makers briefly dunk the shaped pieces of raw dough in a lye solution before baking them. Many home recipes replace the lye with baking soda, but the results taste like breadsticks, not pretzels."

The entire article is worth reading for some good kitchen chemistry.

 

[Catt22]

Sorry for the hijack (and I totally grabbed this off of another forum):

As lye is very dangerous, consider your own sodium carbonate (washing soda) which, while not as basic as lye, it is more basic than baking soda.
You can make your own washing soda by baking "baking soda"
The NY Times had a good article on doing this.
"The Curious Cook
For Old-Fashioned Flavor, Bake the Baking Soda"
by Harold McGee

"Just spread a layer of soda on a foil-covered baking sheet and bake it at 250 to 300 degrees for an hour. You’ll lose about a third of the soda’s weight in water and carbon dioxide, but you gain a stronger alkali. Keep baked soda in a tightly sealed jar to prevent it from absorbing moisture from the air. And avoid touching or spilling it. It’s not lye, but it’s strong enough to irritate.

Baked soda is also strong enough to make a good lye substitute for pretzels. In order to get that distinctive flavor and deep brown color, pretzel makers briefly dunk the shaped pieces of raw dough in a lye solution before baking them. Many home recipes replace the lye with baking soda, but the results taste like breadsticks, not pretzels."

The entire article is worth reading for some good kitchen chemistry.

Hey Keith,

Thanks for the info! I was aware of the baking soda substitution, but had never heard of the baked baking soda before. I had a supply of the Red Devil lye that I had always used for the pretzels, but I recently ran out. I plan to try this baked soda technique soon. My soft German style pretzels are always a big hit wherever I take them. The distinctive pretzel flavor is essential. Otherwise, they are nothing more than an oddly shaped bagel.

This tip will go into my recipe archive immediately.

 

[EarthBound]

Glad you got your kettle clean Earthbound.

Thanks. Glad to have it done.

I suppose now I should wipe it with wet paper towels until they come clean, repassivate it with BKF, give it an oxiclean enema, and she'll be ready for some action?

 

[northernlad]

Well, I aint no scientist and I aint got no degree in rocks and dirt and stuff, but I have been using SS scrubbies indiscriminately on Stainless pots and equipment in restaurants for over 20 years and I have never seen any SS rust or stick or anything as a result. I fact, I have never seen stainless even be scratched by typical cleaning with a scrubbie. Try saying that with a brillo pad. The quality of the stainless in the pot is far better that what you will find in a scrubbie and like pencil to paper the pot will prevail. By the time you get done with scrubbing a serious scratch off of a pan you have just barely touched the actual stainless.

I find it disturbing that almost everyone is sayin "Aww, Feck it, throw a closet of chemicals on it" but no one wants scrub a little.

 

[dmfa200]

Well, I aint no scientist and I aint got no degree in rocks and dirt and stuff, but I have been using SS scrubbies indiscriminately on Stainless pots and equipment in restaurants for over 20 years and I have never seen any SS rust or stick or anything as a result. I fact, I have never seen stainless even be scratched by typical cleaning with a scrubbie. Try saying that with a brillo pad. The quality of the stainless in the pot is far better that what you will find in a scrubbie and like pencil to paper the pot will prevail. By the time you get done with scrubbing a serious scratch off of a pan you have just barely touched the actual stainless.

I find it disturbing that almost everyone is sayin "Aww, Feck it, throw a closet of chemicals on it" but no one wants scrub a little.

Thank you!

 

[smelltheglove]

didnt wanna hijack...but this is kinda related to burning and oxy-clean w SS!

....I did about a 32 hour soak in oxy-clean to try and loosen up some scorching on the bottom...it got rid of them pretty well after I scrubbed with the blue scrubbie. But now it left this grayish matte looking residue on the pot. Has anyone seen this before? I kinda looks like my aluminum pot's grayish oxidation layer... didn't know SS does this? This is a SS Pot from morebeer...the economy one so it is probably a cheaper type SS? Any input would be appreciated...Thanks

 

[wired247]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T9LZDI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[EarthBound]

Well, I aint no scientist and I aint got no degree in rocks and dirt and stuff, but I have been using SS scrubbies indiscriminately on Stainless pots and equipment in restaurants for over 20 years and I have never seen any SS rust or stick or anything as a result. I fact, I have never seen stainless even be scratched by typical cleaning with a scrubbie. Try saying that with a brillo pad. The quality of the stainless in the pot is far better that what you will find in a scrubbie and like pencil to paper the pot will prevail. By the time you get done with scrubbing a serious scratch off of a pan you have just barely touched the actual stainless.

I find it disturbing that almost everyone is sayin "Aww, Feck it, throw a closet of chemicals on it" but no one wants scrub a little.

I hope that wasn't directed at me.

I was simply taking suggestions for cleaning burnt stuff off the bottom of a SS kettle. After that, I decided what were valid suggestions and decided to try them out. I know I could've just used a SS scrubbie right off the bat, but I thought it would be helpful to try out some ideas. I'm usually willing to be a guinea pig, especially when it's a controversial topic.

In my case, scrubbing a little by hand would've pretty much done nothing. A SS wire brush for my angle grinder would've been required. I even bought one just in case the oven cleaner didn't work, but it did, so we're good.

 

[RegionalChaos]

Tend to agree with this. Either extremely high concentrations of OxiClean were used or the reports are based on confusing aluminum with SS. I have never had an issue with pitting on any SS vessel and I have also left for a couple days. This also includes a SS slop sink that has held a tub of oxiclean for a week on a couple of occasions.

My understanding is that you can get pitting if the Oxi hasn't dissolved completely. So too high of a concentration, or very little stirring..

 

[kmk1012]

I always pour in 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of gasoline, light it and set it out in the yard over night. Believe me after it is done burning the little scorch in the bottom is the last thing to worry about! P.S. a little elbow grease and some pbw works everytime!

 

[Photomask]

There has been no end of concern about scratching the surface and leaving something to promote growth. 1000 different opinions, 1000 different quotes, 1000 different solutions. Limitless headbutting and personality conflicts but nobody has taken the time to prove it. I think that's what we really need. This is the first step in a series of test I'm going to run that should put all of this to an end. The next will be a process specific corrosion test on various passivation methods versus surface conditions. For the time being, let's start with the whole scratching the surface issue.

I'm not intending to step on anybody's toes or compare size of genitalia. I am interested in useful testing with comparative results in a real world environment that is specific to a homebrewer's perspective.

I started with a top of an AB beer keg and attacked it with various abrasive surface treatments.

Photo #1 The Keg Top
Photo #2 A used 40gt flapwheel in a 4-1/2in grinder
Photo #3 Used 100gt sandpaper in a random orbit sander
Photo #4 The standard Scotch Green Scrubbie