Should I be Concerned that my Brew Kettle is 201 Stainless Steel?

[landmissle]

Hi all,

I've only been brewing for about 6 months and am on my fifth batch of beer (in the fermentor now). I'm learning a lot and so I'm probably asking a lot of stupid/newebie questions. Here's my next one.

The kettle I'm using is a 8.5 gallon unit that came in a starter kit. It's made of 201 stainless steel. I've noted that a lot of other kettles and steel fermentors are 304. This got me curios to see what the difference is. Beyond the attributes of these different steels, I'm reading that 201 is not food grade steel. It may not be FDA approved for food grade usage.

Should I be concerned about this and consider buying a kettle made of 304 stainless steel?

 

[lumpher]

201 has less nickel snd more manganese in it, so is more likely to corrode. When it does, it releases nickel. Some people have nickel allergies. That being said, if you don't use anything acidic to clean it, the kettle should be safe. It's used for some cookware and kitchen utensils, even.

 

[mac_1103]

I have a couple of cheap stainless steel kettles that I still sometimes brew with. I assume that they are 201 because they were so inexpensive, but I guess you can't really tell just by looking at them.

I believe that some 201 has no nickel at all. So even more likely to corrode but can't release any nickel. Nickel is expensive, which is why 201 is cheap.

I've also read a bunch of claims that 201 is not acceptable for use in food preparation, but I've also read that the NSF requirement is just 16% chromium or more which would mean that 201 and 430 are fine. So what do I know?

Nothing wrong with upgrading your kettle, but I'm pretty sure there's also nothing wrong with the cheap one you have now. Just don't expect it to last a lifetime.

 

[Broken Crow]

201 SS is an economical choice for both manufacturer and consumer. 304 is more heat tolerant and corrosion resistant. 201 is a good choice for someone just looking to move to SS without breaking the bank. I still have a couple pots I bought in the 1980's and one of them, a smaller saucepan, is showing some pitting owing to having been boiled/burned dry a few times...still cleans up OK with some Bar Keepers Friend. I've worked in large canning, chocolate, and dry powdered mix factories and while vessels and hot-side plumping are always 304 or 316SS, cold-side long runs of plumbing are often 201.
Because 201 is a choice made to a price-point, it is usually also a lighter guage than 304, thus more prone to dents or going out of round if mishandled. It's a good choice for beginner kit and many on here have been using theirs for years without issue. Occasionally, we'll get a post from someone whose pot has developed a leak..this is always at the bottom where it comes into contact with the heat-source and usually after years of service.
In short: You're good to go for some years...Enjoy and see where the hobby takes you.

 

[Broken Crow]

I have a couple of cheap stainless steel kettles that I still sometimes brew with. I assume that they are 201 because they were so inexpensive, but I guess you can't really tell just by looking at them.

I believe that some 201 has no nickel at all. So even more likely to corrode but can't release any nickel. Nickel is expensive, which is why 201 is cheap.

I've also read a bunch of claims that 201 is not acceptable for use in food preparation, but I've also read that the NSF requirement is just 16% chromium or more which would mean that 201 and 430 are fine. So what do I know?

Nothing wrong with upgrading your kettle, but I'm pretty sure there's also nothing wrong with the cheap one you have now. Just don't expect it to last a lifetime.

It's 4% nickel, but unless it actually corrodes or is used with something more caustic and destabilizing than beer, it won't be released and even then it would require fairly advanced corrosion. The area I've never seen 201 plumbing used for is with tomato pulp or juice...presumably owing to the acid content.

 

[landmissle]

Hi all,

Thanks for the feedback. I'm happy enough with the kettle. Just wanted to be sure that I was not putting myself in a situation where my beer was getting leeched with undesireable metals or chemicals.

 

[hotbeer]

I wouldn't be too concerned. Keep it clean. Don't soak it for days with anything. Don't store liquids in it. Same as I treat 304 SS.

If all you are doing boiling in it or even mashing, you shouldn't have any issues. It is just slightly less corrosion resistant than the more common for food use 304 SS. But not much. It's probably only the things you might store in it for a period that are acidic or caustic that will ever be any issue.

304 isn't as great as it's reputation that proceeds it either. I wouldn't use it for things I want to last on a boat kept on salt-water. Nor will it hold up for very long at all when used in industrial settings, such as the plating industry. For that Carpenter 20 type SS and similar is needed. And that cost some big boy bucks.

 

[Slim M]

I seen in some different places on this forum & others some have expressed concerns or opinions over the safety of using 201 with brewing. Even some have insinuated it may have possible health risks.

Been using my 201ss Brewers Best 16 gallon kettle for about a year. Thought it was a good deal. should I reconsider? I don’t want to get poisoned by my kettle!

 

[Slim M]

Not trying to stir the pot!

 

[Broken Crow]

Superstition is unforunately alive and thriving. At risk of deletion; Some online folk believe all manner of nonsense because they read it online "so it must be true". And yes; You should occasionally stir the pot both to make sure the hops don't just stick to the sides above the liquid level, and to keep solids from burning on your element.

 

[Slim M]

Superstition is unforunately alive and thriving. At risk of deletion; Some online folk believe all manner of nonsense because they read it online "so it must be true". And yes; You should occasionally stir the pot both to make sure the hops don't just stick to the sides above the liquid level, and to keep solids from burning on your element.

Yeah what I figured. I looked around and just about every hombrew supply or kitchen supply out there sales some brand of a 201ss kettle in a variety of sizes . If it was dangerous I’m not sure this would be happening.

 

[Broken Crow]

Through the 80's and 90's I worked with and on a variety of food equipment in various parts of the food industry here in Canada, where we had some the most strict laws against poisoning the population and though times have changed according to lobbying power, back then the acidity in brewing was never near high enough that reactivity was even on the radar. Even PET plastics got heavily busted in the late 90's for poor formulation, but even that rapaidly saw the light of day and formulations were brought in line for food-safety. Doubtless, many budget kettles are made in China where regulations are far more lax, but I have yet to see any reputable supplier of brewing gear in N America carrying gear with dodgey metallurgy. (Take great care and research though, on Amazon, eBay and AliExpress though.)

 

[mac_1103]

I have two cheap 5 gallon kettles made of 201 stainless. Don't use them as much as I used to when I was brewing extract on the stove top, but I'm not worried about them in the least. That said, cheap is cheap for a reason, so you might consider upgrading eventually if you want something that's going to last forever.

 

[Broken Crow]

That said, cheap is cheap for a reason, so you might consider upgrading eventually if you want something that's going to last forever.

A statement I totally agree with, and if you want to cover all the bases: Do you use gas, induction, or an installed element?
No need to answer, but since this may come up in searches: SS will leech nickel when reactivity has happened, which usually involves high heat. Owing to brain damage I don't remember the precise temperature, but at temps such as welding, Stainless Steel ceases to be stainless (I think it's 400 and something ° for a period of about 5 minutes, but don't qoute me on that!)
If you use a gas-burner, the localized temps can exceed that but it generally takes years for corrosion to begin and it usually takes the form of the blackened surface for many uses before it begins to pit...sometime during the initial pitting is when the leaching will occur as O2 and carbon (from the flame) allows the release of chromium and nickel. .....But like I mentioned: It takes a lot of use and a long time and you'll see the tonal shifts in the metal well before it becomes something to be concerned about..... years. Unless you bought a used kettle from a retired long-time over gas user, No worries.

 

[Yesfan]

Isn't 201 stainless a bit more magnetic too due to the iron content? Seems like my old Bayou Kettles were. They were easier to add ports using a step bit too compared to alternatives like some of the Concord kettles.

 

[Slim M]

Isn't 201 stainless a bit more magnetic too due to the iron content? Seems like my old Bayou Kettles were. They were easier to add ports using a step bit too compared to alternatives like some of the Concord kettles.

Yep I believe so. 304 is more magnetic than 316. Think the more chromium the less ferrous.

 

[Slim M]

I’ve been brewing in plastic brew buckets for years and usually replace them every year in January and repurpose them for something else. It’s not that big of an expense and adds a little insurance against bad bugs.

This time was different I ordered a Chapman 14 gallon fermenter instead of the 2 buckets like I usually get. Guess I’m not too worried about 201 stainless especially on the cold side. After lots of reading this week most restaurant supply & such seem to think 201 is an excellent food safe storage material.

It seems despite lots of opinions over 201 vs 304 vs 316 the authorities seem to focus on the chromium content for food contact & storage, which from my research 201 falls comfortably in that range. After a little research the couple of scenarios that 201 might concern me as a homebrewer are if you get ahold of some commercial cleaning stuff, overheat without liquid or dry burn a kettle, or you can’t positively ID the steel material type or manufacture to verify.