Build a relatively inexpensive Tri-Clover RIMS Tube?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
It's a 5500w! For the half of the element that folds back on itself, it touches the inner wall. Damn, I really don't want to replace this stuff :(
 
I put two bends in mine so that the centerline is between the fold. It fits fine in 1.5" pipe.

Rather than:
---====)

I made mine:
-\__===)

If that makes any sense.
 
Is yours a 5500w LD? I'm kinda scared to bend it.....but then again I've seen guys completely unfold them with no issues whatsoever.
 
Yes, 5500w LWD, it scared me a little how much force it took to bend, but it just needs 2 small tweaks to center it up.
 
I bent my 4500W HD element slightly and used it this past weekend in my BK and it worked great.
 
2010-07-27205434.jpg


This is all it takes.

Fits into this quite nicely:
2010-07-27205556.jpg

2010-07-27205536.jpg
 
I bent mine and it's a pretty snug fit. The element pretty much fills the tube diameter completely. I'm pretty certain it's going to sublimate any fluid in there with the kind of energy that will be transferred :) I may refrain from using it to maintain mash temps and stick with doing on demand hot water and sparging. I will be doing BIAB so there will also be an element in the vessel where mashing takes place....kind of like a direct fire MLT but with more control.

I think it's still touching slightly in a few places, but probably not enough to cause a massive failure.
 
Well, I got my RIMS TUBE setup from Derrin Yesterday...... it is sweet!
Rimstube.jpg


All I have to wait on now is the compression fitting for my thermocouple and I will be brewing RIMS style. A follow-up report is sure to come.

Now, What to brew?
 
Back to the main topic of the thread - the triclover rims chamber.

Looks like a good idea to me, given problems with cleaning the original "for dummies" design.

Sawdustguy: I checked the KLG stainless site and they show the Tee's and the clamps, but no additional fittings. Also they say wholesale only, thought it seems like you can order off the site using any Paypal account. You sday you talked to "Kevin" - do they have the additional fittings you needed? Any trouble with not being a reseller?

Thanks - gmartin.
 
Back to the main topic of the thread - the triclover rims chamber.

Looks like a good idea to me, given problems with cleaning the original "for dummies" design.

Sawdustguy: I checked the KLG stainless site and they show the Tee's and the clamps, but no additional fittings. Also they say wholesale only, thought it seems like you can order off the site using any Paypal account. You sday you talked to "Kevin" - do they have the additional fittings you needed? Any trouble with not being a reseller?

Thanks - gmartin.

They will have everything you need. Simply call Kevin, tell him what you need and he will send you an paypal invoice. He will sell to anyone. KLG is by far the least expensive supplier of tri clover fittings around.
 
Okay, I take it back :D I tried threading the element into a 1" coupler, and it wouldn't fit. THEN, I tried it in a 1.5" TC x 1" FPT fitting, and it threaded perfectly.

The only complaint I have is that the element will touch the inside of a 1.5" TC rims tube. I'm not convinced that it's going to burn the element out, so it should be fine.

I'm having a 1" 1/2 coupler welded on to the side of a keg. Do you think this was a bad choice? Should I have had a 1" lock nut installed instead? I just thought it would be better for being able to build the electrical box out away from the keg wall. I was hoping that I could seal it with a combination of pipe tape and/or a gasket and then be able to build an electrical box around it for the connections.
 
I guess I am confused as to why a few flakes of grain is a big deal, since the only time you are using your RIMS is pre-boil. I mean, I have grain stuck in my MLT from 10 batches ago. I just CANT get it all out no matter how hard I try and no matter how many times I clean the thing. But, I don't really care that much because a couple flakes of grain is nothing compared to 10-20 pounds that I usually dump in there every batch, and it's all going to get boiled for an hour or more anyway.
 
I guess I am confused as to why a few flakes of grain is a big deal, since the only time you are using your RIMS is pre-boil. I mean, I have grain stuck in my MLT from 10 batches ago. I just CANT get it all out no matter how hard I try and no matter how many times I clean the thing. But, I don't really care that much because a couple flakes of grain is nothing compared to 10-20 pounds that I usually dump in there every batch, and it's all going to get boiled for an hour or more anyway.

Some of us are just more obsessive compulsive than others...
 
hey klyph - sorry if this has already been covered - where did you get the fittings for the copper RIMS?

Do you know approximate cost?
Last question - how has it worked out?
 
John at Stout tanks and kettles has a 1.5" triclover to 1" NPT fitting for $15.

KLG seems to be out of business - no response to my emails - and I got my triclover fittings mostly from St. Pats. I had no problems dealing with them for two orders - very prompt shipping from online order.

My heating element fits the NPT fitting much better the the NPS fitting I got from St. Pats., though I think I could torque it on the the NPS fitting ok. (Threads on the element look rather rough - cast rather than machined?)

I'm currently working on my controller. Hope to get this assemblage together and do a test brew soon.......
 
Duh - Backasswards as usual -
John has the NPS - straight - fitting
which fits better than the NPT - tapered - fitting

electrical uses straight
plumbing uses tapered
 
For those wondering about the copper RIMS tube, it works great, but I'd rather have a stainless triclamp. This one is a pain to clean. The fitting was a 1" NPT to 3/4" sweat fitting that I cut the end off of on a small jewelers lathe. Like this one:
CF-FA-1.jpg
 
Back
Top