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Thanks for all the advice everyone!

I went this route, and have several friends who bought the same set and have had similarly good results:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brew-share-enjoy-homebrew-starter-kit


Seasoned brewers will tell you that the cost on that kit is inflated, and that is true, but for someone just getting started the value in knowing that you have ALL of the parts you need with one single expense is worth it. (You do still need to find non-twist top bottles, do yourself a favor and find as many 20oz ones as you can).

Start slow, and simple, and with clear instructions. Don't rush out and buy a bunch of books or the most advanced stuff you can find, just work slowly and cleanly and make your first batch of drinkable beer.

:mug:
 
Ok, for a beginner who has yet to brew anything.... all of this seems to be getting over my head.

Water profiles?
Yeast starters?

You don't need to use propane right? The stove works, especially for extracts, so I won't be using propane or anything like that.

What are brewing salts?

If I were you--and I have a grand total of 9 batches under my belt (3 extract, 6 all-grain)--I'd get an extract kit in a style you like and brew that. If your water tastes good, go with it. You might use a Campden tablet to remove chlorine if it seem heavily chlorinated.

Then just brew it. By eliminating concerns about water, all-grain, mashing, mash temps, sparging, and all that stuff at the outset, you can learn the process from the boil forward into the fermenter and eventually into bottles.

This enterprise of brewing one's own beer CAN be daunting, so I think it makes sense to break it down into more manageable pieces. I also think it makes sense to ask yourself where you want to be in, say, 4 or 6 months. It's a process, and while patience is necessary, you're better off IMO learning in stages. That way if something DOES go wrong, you can have a pretty good idea of where it happened.

Early on, I was a bit flummoxed by all the discussion of starters and so on. In my beers I've used Safale S-04 in six of them--it's a dry yeast that comes in a packet. I just sprinkled it on top of the wort after aerating it a bit by shaking the fermenter, and lo and behold, it made beer!

I've done a couple starters using a Wyeast smack pack, but I think you're far head if you can get something w/ dry yeast and forego worrying about starters and such. Then as you improve, make that something you're going to do in a batch, i.e., add it to your skill set.

Same with doing all-grain. Once you have the boil through bottling process down, then you can add that to your repertoire if you want.

When I started, people said to me that it was hard NOT to brew beer if you use good sanitation practices and managed the temperature of the fermentation. They were right--it's almost impossible not to brew beer if you do that--and decent beer. Then as you go, each time you improve the process you make it a little better, turning good beer into better beer and eventually into great beer.

Good luck and enjoy!
 
Yeast and hops are the two places that you can really save money. HOps at the LHBS are always more expensive than ordering from several online vendors. My LHBS charges about 3 bucks an ounce. I can get them online for around a buck depending on the hop. Yeast is also another way to save some money. Buy a pack of yeast and make a big starter. Pour that into several jars for keeping. Make starters from those jars when you need it. When you get to the last jar make another big starter and you get many more jars of yeast. Pick a few yeasts that you like and keep growing them up.

Bulk grains are another way to save if you are doing all grain.

A few bucks per batch can add up quickly. A hoppy IPA that uses a lot of hops can make a big difference if you buy the hops for a couple of bucks per ounce cheaper. Free yeast also helps. These two alone van make a big difference per batch.
 
I really enjoy growing hops, but I'm not sure anyone has ever saved money that way.

I think you could but you would have to understand what you need. It would probably have to be multiple plants of the same variety while getting high yields (close to 1# per plant). Then maybe by the 3rd-5th year you have broken even and are starting to save money. So then you may have 15+ more years of money saved.
 
+1 to reharvesting yeast. Easiest way to bring the costs down.

To start with, design it so that batch 1 and batch 2 use the same yeast, and use dry yeast. Plan to brew batch 2 on the same day you bottle batch 1. I did an APA then a blonde ale on us-05 yeast which is very standard.

Bottle batch 1. Then scoop out 3/4 of the yeast in the fermenter and save in sanitised jars in the fridge. Pour your batch 2 wort onto the leftover 1/4 yeast still in the fermenter. Sanitise the airlock and lid but not the fermenter.

When it starts fermenting you just saved the cost of buying new yeast and didn't have as much cleanup to do. And your confidence will jump up a notch.

Later on you can read up on yeast washing and starters, which is important for dealing with liquid yeasts. But dry yeast is easier for beginners and reusing with the above technique is real easy.

I have a spare pack of dry yeast in the fridge in case something goes wrong.
 
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