BrunDog 50A eRig - no HLT for me!

[jcc4507fly]

Wow! Sounds and looks awesome!

 

[jcc4507fly]

BrunDog where did you buy the proportional ball valve? I've found 2 & 3 wire on/off ball valves for reasonable price but no proportional ball valves.

 

[BrunDog]

I got it direct from KLD in China. It took a while to source given the time difference, language barriers, etc.

It was about $100 but was with other valves and the shipping and $ transfer fee were not cheap.

If you tell me what you want or are trying to do, I can direct you better as I did a bunch of research trying to source one.

-BD

 

[jcav]

You are amazing, and your system is absolutely top notch! Love seeing the progress and technology put to use!

John

 

[BrunDog]

Thanks man! Hoping to get a brew on it and test out the valves and programming this week!

 

[BrunDog]

As noted above my diy fermenter took a crap. Craigslist here I come... Landed this 20cf upright Kenmore Freezer. In excellent condition, $175. Yeah baby... Can fit several fermenters in this bad boy. And lagering stupid easy!! Pumped. My wife is not!! Brewing tomorrow!! Yay!

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1448244024.717694.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1448244037.320515.jpg

 

[jcav]

Nice score on the freezer! Good luck with the first brew!

John

 

[Mountainsax]

Amazing setup! I'm super impressed, but now this makes the system I'm building look like something my 11 year old would throw together! Can't wait to hear how the first brew comes out.

 

[BrunDog]

Happy Thanksgiving!

Had some spare time today to start work on my next addition: automatic flush water for my primary chiller. Here is a manifold I soldered up which will take incoming water and provide it to my coiled spray hose, a fill valve (next project), and the chiller flush water. I am going to try the cheap route with a basic sprinkler valve, but if it doesn't cut the flow mustard, I will get someone with more oomph. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1448575907.743331.jpg

Brewing a Hoe clone tomorrow morning!

 

[jcc4507fly]

Looks nice!

 

[processhead]

Brundog, your setup looks great. Very nice workmanship and well thought out at every turn.

I just got to looking through this thread and it makes me want to take my gear and leave it out by the curb.

 

[jcav]

Very clever, I hope it works for you!

John

 

[BrunDog]

Thanks guys. Did a wit today and some things went smoothly, and others notsomuch. Most things are addressable. The biggest issue was my #2 Chugger pump decoupling for some reason. I had to keep starting and stopping it to get it to link. I am going to take the head apart and see what's going on if I can tell.

 

[jcc4507fly]

What do you mean by decoupling?

Edit: So a googled decoupling and think I understand what you're referring to. I have not heard of decoupling and think I have some more reading to do. I thought when that happened to me that the pump was cavitating, ie running dry. Is this basically the same thing just a different term?

I have noticed that since I hard plumbed out my setup that I have to create back pressure on my pump by partially closing the output valve on my pump. If not the pump seems to run dry and I have to shut it down and then restart. I just assumed that the pump's output was greater than the fluid input to the pump, if the pump is allowed to run unrestricted.

 

[TexasWine]

I have noticed that since I hard plumbed out my setup that I have to create back pressure on my pump by partially closing the output valve on my pump. If not the pump seems to run dry and I have to shut it down and then restart. I just assumed that the pump's output was greater than the fluid input to the pump, if the pump is allowed to run unrestricted.

Most likely what's happening is that at the higher flow rates you don't have enough NPSHa (a = available). I attached an example pump curve below.

See that little line at the bottom of the graph? Look at what it does at higher flow rates. When the pump runs out on its curve the NPSHr (r = required) also increase rapidly. So when you throttle the discharge you're forcing the pump back on its curve, to the left, and correspondingly decreasing the amount of NPSH it needs to operate.

If the available NPSH isn't greater than the required NPSH of the pump, then you'll get cavitation.

Hope this helps. If you want more info on how to calculate NPSHa, I'd check out Engineering Toolbox.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/npsh-net-positive-suction-head-d_634.html

 

[TexasWine]

Well, attachment didn't work. Try #2.

View attachment 1448717230720.jpg

 

[BrunDog]

I appreciate the feedback guys, but I think it was magnetic decoupling of the impeller. You know these are magnetically coupled for safety and for sanitation.

The pump was running, but no flow was occurring. I would stop power, and the pump motor would slowly spool down, and when approaching its stopped rotation would "click in" or engage and the liquid would start flowing. I could then power up and liquid would flow again for a few seconds, then the motor speed would rapidly increase and the flow would stop. Stopping it again would allow it to engage. Cavitation is different - it wouldn't click in and out.

I think the impeller may have gotten jammed. After a bunch of cycles it started working again but then during fermenter transfer its volume slowed down but was not decoupling.

 

[TexasWine]

Whoops, sorry wasn't meaning to address your issue but was instead talking to jcc. Completely agree, in your situation mag drive was decoupling.

 

[BrunDog]

Oh, sorry.... you did quote him and my narcissistic self overlooked that!

Good info nonetheless. I have seen bubbles come out of the output for near boiling wort when none were going in... so this definitely explains that!

-BD

 

[jcc4507fly]

I think the impeller may have gotten jammed. After a bunch of cycles it started working again but then during fermenter transfer its volume slowed down but was not decoupling.

Yes I did know the pump heads are magnetic driven. Which is great for our use being able to control the output flow rate by restricting with a ball valve and not having to worry about burning up the pump. I just assumed that if I restricted the pump's output 100% with a closed ball valve it would just allow the motor to spin and the pump head to stop turning. (Magnetic drive/acting as a clutch) Then once the output valve was opened enough to allow flow the pump head would begin to spin because the resistance/back pressure could be overcome by the pump head.

I am at a loss understanding what will cause pump decoupling? Faulty pump head? Impeller jammed? Restricting output flow too much?? I'm just trying to learn more for my knowledge and understanding.

 

[BrunDog]

Well, I just opened up the pump head. Everything looked OK but there were a couple pieces of orange peel clogging the intake (haven't installed a screen with the new bottom drain). These were from the wit yesterday.

So I am really not sure what caused the decoupling. Maybe there was something caught in the impeller, because after I had cycled power a bunch of times it seemed to take longer and longer to decouple until it didn't.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

There's a couple of other things that will make these pumps decouple like overheating and miss-aligning or putting a big gap between the head and magnet. But neither seems to be a problem for you, probably just the orange peel.

Great looking system!

 

[BrunDog]

Thanks for the feedback. I don't think the decoupling was from the orange peel, but restricted flow later on (cleaning) was.

When you say overheating, I would agree that's possible and the decoupling did in fact occur when starting my whirlpool recirculation. But what doesn't jive is that the pump was not on before that and the wort is boiling. The pump is made to handle liquid at boil temp, so this shouldn't be it. It was mounted properly so dunno if it is an alignment issue.

Anyway, if it happens again, I will call Chugger and seek a remedy/replacement.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

These pumps are rated for boiling liquid, but with bad ventilation they will often decouple before the over temp switch pops. Your setup looks like there should be plenty of ventilation for them so I would rule that out, unless you have some strange air circulation going on.

Could always be a bad magnet. I've had good experience with chugger customer service, even though my pump broke because of my own stupidity. If it happens again send them an email, they will help troubleshoot.

 

[BrunDog]

Thanks for the tips. Like you stated there is no ventilation issue though it was warm this weekend. Not warmer than I have brewed with it before, and like I said it wasn't running, so no heat buildup from the motor.

 

[jcav]

I hope you get it worked out, maybe you should give Chugger a call and see if they can narrow it down for you. Who knows they may just send you a new part!

John

 

[BrunDog]

Me too. It certainly was an unwelcome surprise when I was trying to debug lots of other issues!!

 

[crane]

I had an issue with a chugger where the magnet was hitting the pump head. I was able to take the pump head off and loosen the set screw to move the magnet back a bit to stop the rubbing.

Your problem might be that the magnet is too far away from the pump head and needs to be moved closer to the pump head to prevent decoupling.

 

[BrunDog]

Oh, wow. That's great information. No doubt the quality control of these Chinese made pumps is not that high. This same pump had a leak the day I first used it (brand new). I got a replacement gasket which solved the problem.

I will call Chugger and ask what the position should be, if it's user settable. Thanks crane!

 

[3683Brewing]

First off, great build man. This thing is incredible. I have been trying to figure out how to run my RIMS tube on 120V during mashing and 240V during sparging with the BCS for some time now. Your solution with the relay seems like a great solution. Can you tell me what relay you used to take care of this? I can't seem to find anything on the internets...