BruControl: Brewery control & automation software

[BrunDog]

Yes, correct!

 

[BrunDog]

Hi all,

Just want to get a public apology out to all of you waiting on hardware orders. We have been backed up much more than we Weber expected and have been making promises that we haven’t been delivering on. I’ll spare all the details but initially electronic component availability and more recently some repeat team personal issues have compounded the delays.

We are making every effort to flush the queue and get orders out as soon as possible. If you don’t want to wait any longer, by all means email us and we can try to make it right or refund upon request.

Thank you for the support and patience!

 

[Dustin_J]

Having a bit of a weird (and disconcerting) issue I hope some of you can help with.

Earlier today, I reconfigured my Unishield to connect to Brucontrol via ethernet rather than serial. Installed 450-MEGA-E firmware and edited all the network specs to get things connected.

What's happening now is that when I disable the Device Element for my boil kettle electric heating element (a PID element), the circuit for the heating element is actually closing and sending power to the element! Note that it works perfectly normally when the element is disabled (i.e., power to the element shuts off when the target temp is set below the actual temp, and it turns on when the target temp is set above the actual temp. Note that when I just unplug the ethernet cable, plug the serial connection back in, enable the serial interface/disable the ethernet interface, and "reconnect" via the serial element for the same mega/unishield (and turn slider switch 4 on the Unishield to the appropriate place) I don't have this issue. I've double-checked that the Device Element settings are the same for the "Copied"/replicated elements and I can't see any differences. Also tried the45K-MEGA-E firmware as a last resort of sorts with no luck. Any thoughts?

---------
EDIT: I just checked again and now it's defaulting to closed/on even when the interface(s) are disabled and/or physically disconnected. Physically unplugging the ethernet shield stopped it, hence why it didn't do it when I tested earlier with the serial connection again (it was unplugged). Something fishy with the ethernet shield or Unishield hardware settings, I guess.

 

[oakbarn]

Having a bit of a weird (and disconcerting) issue I hope some of you can help with.

Earlier today, I reconfigured my Unishield to connect to Brucontrol via ethernet rather than serial. Installed 450-MEGA-E firmware and edited all the network specs to get things connected.

What's happening now is that when I disable the Device Element for my boil kettle electric heating element (a PID element), the circuit for the heating element is actually closing and sending power to the element! Note that it works perfectly normally when the element is disabled (i.e., power to the element shuts off when the target temp is set below the actual temp, and it turns on when the target temp is set above the actual temp. Note that when I just unplug the ethernet cable, plug the serial connection back in, enable the serial interface/disable the ethernet interface, and "reconnect" via the serial element for the same mega/unishield (and turn slider switch 4 on the Unishield to the appropriate place) I don't have this issue. I've double-checked that the Device Element settings are the same for the "Copied"/replicated elements and I can't see any differences. Also tried the45K-MEGA-E firmware as a last resort of sorts with no luck. Any thoughts?

---------
EDIT: I just checked again and now it's defaulting to closed/on even when the interface(s) are disabled and/or physically disconnected. Physically unplugging the ethernet shield stopped it, hence why it didn't do it when I tested earlier with the serial connection again (it was unplugged). Something fishy with the ethernet shield or Unishield hardware settings, I guess.

Are you using Port 10 (7P) for the "Device Element for my boil kettle electric heating element (a PID element)"? If so, It may be the issue as Port 10 is OK for Serial but not Ethernet.

 

[Dustin_J]

Are you using Port 10 (7P) for the "Device Element for my boil kettle electric heating element (a PID element)"? If so, It may be the issue as Port 10 is OK for Serial but not Ethernet.

It was port/pin 4, but good suggestion. Turned out my Arduino ethernet shield had continuity b/w pin 4 & pin 10 (and a few others) thanks to some shoddy construction or something. Bending pin 4 on the ethernet shield out of the way before reinstalling solved the issue.

 

[BrunDog]

Ok so you’re good to go now?

 

[oakbarn]

It was port/pin 4, but good suggestion. Turned out my Arduino ethernet shield had continuity b/w pin 4 & pin 10 (and a few others) thanks to some shoddy construction or something. Bending pin 4 on the ethernet shield out of the way before reinstalling solved the issue.

I wonder if PIN 4 with Ethernet could be an issue. Since it is one of the few counter pins, I do not use it but have reserved for future Counter Use if I ever get counters. Is any one using Pin 4 with Ethernet?

Which other Pins (" and a few others "on the Ethernet Shield were issues? Was the continuity to Pin 10 on any of the others?

 

[BrunDog]

You may be right. Pin 4’on the shield is used for the SD card slot. Because we don’t use it it shouldn’t matter, but if that pin is indeed pulled low, SPI data may get tied up as multiple slaves (ethernet and SD card) will be able to communicate at the same time. We need to test it and possibly isolate that pin.

 

[oakbarn]

Should the all Power Supplies vdc (-) also be connected to the common GND?

 

[Dustin_J]

Ok so you’re good to go now?

Yup, back up and running with no issues.

 

[RiverCityBrewer]

Should the all Power Supplies vdc (-) also be connected to the common GND?

You can, but you don't have to. If you are getting EMI on your analog inputs, in some instances tying VDC - to chassis/earth/AC ground can suppress or eliminate the EMI.

 

[oakbarn]

You can, but you don't have to. If you are getting EMI on your analog inputs, in some instances tying VDC - to chassis/earth/AC ground can suppress or eliminate the EMI.

Thanks, I know when I had my BCS they had it wired that way. I am going to have a single 12 vdc circuit that is independent of the common ground to power my CR05 valves as they reverse polarity.

All other VDC - to chassis/earth/AC ground.

 

[BrunDog]

Thanks, I know when I had my BCS they had it wired that way. I am going to have a single 12 vdc circuit that is independent of the common ground to power my CR05 valves as they reverse polarity.

All other VDC - to chassis/earth/AC ground.

I don't understand this... when you reverse polarity on the valve, you don't reverse polarity on the power supply. What does this mean?

 

[oakbarn]

Is

I don't understand this... when you reverse polarity on the valve, you don't reverse polarity on the power supply. What does this mean?

CR 05 Reverse Polarity Valve Operation

Yellow to 12 VDC (+)
Blue Wire to 12 VDC (-)

Valve Opens

Yellow Wire to 12 vdc (-)
Blue Wire to 12 VDC (+)
Valve closes

With the DTDP relays it work fine for opening and closing valves.

The Power for the LEDs needs to be independent of the valve power supply because you need and independent (-) and independent (+) as per US Solid instructions: at about 1:13 in the video just one small statement:

"It requires an actual separated DC power supply that is less than 36 volts."



I found out by burning some wire!

 

[oakbarn]

Is this a good clean power source? I plan to convert from a 24 vdc 10 amp transformer to 5 v.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CHMJM9J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[BrunDog]

Oh, I see. Did they supply those LED's?

I honestly don't see the value of those, and I think they add extra complexity. If you want the indication, why not just wire those signals to your interface and let BruControl see/report the open and closed state? Again, your brewery so do it the way you want it. But the point of software controls is you don't need to add & manage dedicated hardware.

 

[BrunDog]

Is this a good clean power source? I plan to convert from a 24 vdc 10 amp transformer to 5 v.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CHMJM9J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Dunno!?! DCC shouldn't be too much of a worry for noise/EMI.

 

[oakbarn]

Dunno!?! DCC shouldn't be too much of a worry for noise/EMI.

Going to use it to power the unishield.

 

[oakbarn]

I like to be able to see the valve positions from a way in the brewery. Extremally helpful when I have lots of helpers. I only had manual valves before and thought it would be nice to show the valve positions. I have auto control, Emergency Off, and total manual control on everything except the heating elements. The heating elements are all Auto but with an Emergency Off switch as well. There

I found that some manual control of my pumps was very helpful in clearing cavitation and shutting down a pump when transferring Wort. There are also times when I just want total manual control. I find that useful in cleaning.


I also use Digital Input (momentary push LED push buttons) to control the flow of the program
Next Step when needed to complete manually, such as end of wort transfer). Also to kill an alarms.

I do not like to touch the Touch Screen or Mouse if I can help it. Much easier to ask a Helper to click the Blue Button.

 

[BrunDog]

Going to use it to power the unishield.

Don’t need it for that. The UniShield has the DCC converter right on it. Give it 24V directly.

 

[oakbarn]

Oh, I see. Did they supply those LED's?

I honestly don't see the value of those, and I think they add extra complexity. If you want the indication, why not just wire those signals to your interface and let BruControl see/report the open and closed state? Again, your brewery so do it the way you want it. But the point of software controls is you don't need to add & manage dedicated hardware.

The beauty of BruControl is control. One of the great thing about BruControl is the We are in control of what We want. There are thousands of way to skin a cat, and BruControl allows you any one of those thousand ways. And if We need a thousand steps to get there, We can do it with BruControl.

Since the process is 95% AUTOMATIC, We like to sit away from the Brewery (and heat) and watch the process from afar.

In fact, we have a large screen (55") that displays the BruControl interface. I even have a special work space that displays only the Mash Timer and Temperature during the Mash.

 

[Klooid]

Hi All,

I am planning with the aid of Brucontrol to upgrade my current fermenter controller which is based on 2 x STC-1000 to control my two 1BBL Unitanks, each with a 240V ~ 200watt (< 2amp) heater pads, and cooling via two Solenoid valves fed by a Glycol Chiller. Also when a Solenoid valve is activated, this switches on the 240v glycol pump which is part of the chiller.

Therefore, as a complete NOOB with Brucontrol, I should be grateful for some guidance on what appropriate parts I need to order to build my new Fermenter Panel using either a Mega 2560 or an Adafruit Feather M0 Wifi (I have both to hand)?

Although, I have looked at the “Order List” for the Mega 2560, my main question is what is your thoughts on the following parts I am looking at:

2 x 12v Motorized Ball Valves – Do I go for 2 wire or 3 wire version and in a normally closed position?

Motorized Ball Valves controlled by CZH-Labs 2 x SPDT Relay Module, and will this work only with the Mega 2560?

240v Heater Pads and glycol pump controlled by CZH-Labs 3 x SSR Relay 8 amp, and again will this work only with the Mega 2560?

Also, I’d rather go for quality / reliability and not price, and hence for example if Crydom SSRs gives this, then please give me your thoughts?

Thanks for your help.

 

[oakbarn]

Hi All,

I am planning with the aid of Brucontrol t...

Crydom SSR are better but more $.

Do you want positive control of your valves. The advantage of 3 wire is that you can leave the valve in a position (open or closed) with power off (it remains it the position it is when power is turned off). When your fermenter is Off when it is empty, how do you want the valves? With 2 wire they will be closed.
The only issue with 3 wire is that reverse polarity is common so a DPDT relay can come in handy for control.

I cannot speak to the Feather as I only use Mega 2560 or Grand Central. Since you are fermenting, you might look to the ESP 32 if you ever want to add a Tilt. I think you could do everything you want with just the ESP 32, but I have not used it other than for a Tilt. If you have the Mega 2560, it gives you lots of options if you add more fermenters or other things you want to control. You could add the ESP 32 if you ever wanted a Tilt.

You could even use your Solenoid valves if you wanted as you might need a couple of DC relays.
A wiring Diagram of your current setup would help with advice.

 

[RiverCityBrewer]

I'm not familiar with the 240v heater pads, do you have a link to their spec sheet as well as the glycol pump? Mostly concerned that they will be drawing more power than the 8amp SSRs are rated for.

I used 3 wire motorized valves for ease of use with SPDT relays.

 

[oakbarn]

Using the Mega Unishield, I am only using the P pins on the VC Bank, so there needs to be no power connected to the VC Pin?

 

[BrunDog]

First question is... how do you want the interface (MEGA, etc.) to connect to the BruControl computer? USB/serial (assuming they are within a couple feet of each other) or network (Ethernet or Wi-Fi). That will drive the decision of which interface to use given the ones you have.

Everything else you are saying is OK. I would select 3-wire valves - the two wire ones use a capacitor to store charge and I'm not a huge fan of that concept should the caps not be able to charge. The relay modules should work with either the MEGA or the Feather. You can probably use a multi-bank relay board to drive both the valves and the heaters, assuming the heaters are <= 10A.

 

[BrunDog]

Using the Mega Unishield, I am only using the P pins on the VC Bank, so there needs to be no power connected to the VC Pin?

Correct.

 

[swanwick]

Thank you to all who participated in the discussion of proportional valve use from late May, early June on this thread. My past rig was 3-tier so things you can do with pumps are all new to me. The PID settings stuff goes over my head, but may try to dig into that understanding down the line.

I am currently in testing phase with my Uniflex Brucontrol scripts. Using my proportional valve for 3 things

1. Sparging: I plan to measure what setting will give me desired gpm from MT to BK. A float switch in the MT turns the HLT-->MT pump on when needed to keep level correct
2. Whirlpooling: Assuming we don't want to go full bore here. I have a way too strong for brewing March Pump.
3. Chilling: First Stage, I have an exchillerator counter-flow chiller. It will be fed by hose water. Second stage, I have a coil inside my fermenter fed by a water reservoir that comes from a kegerator via a pond pump. I plan to dump ice in it for the cool down and then it works fine with just the kegerator cooling for ferment temp control.

Questions:
For Whirlpooling, is there an optimal gpm speed? Will be doing 10-15 gallon batches. I would think that too fast and it might discourage settling. Too slow and the cone would not form well

For two stage chilling is there an optimal temp to go for on the first stage? Don't want to waste a lot of hose water, but also don't want to wait too long for the second stage. Is there a PV value relative to the sparging speed and or whirlpooling speed that people use? My valves and hoses are all 1/2"

 

[BrunDog]

Not sure there are empirical answers for these. Probably need to pick some targets and see what happens. Whirlpooling speed maybe 5 gpm? Depends on vessel size, volume etc. try it and see. Probably doesn’t matter much as long as it’s not too slow. For first stage, maybe 30 degrees above flush water temp? Dunno really, sorry!

 

[Klooid]

Thanks for all the replies, which is very much appreciated, and the 3-wire valves certainly helps to get things started.

In terms of interface, I have both Ethernet and Wifi in the Brew Shed, and I have been messing about with both Mega and Feather just for connection purposes and both appear to work ok. Also for info my 1 BBL Unitanks are Jacket / Walled Cooled, and I am unlikely to have any success adding a Tilt due to the thickness of steel in the walls.

The heater pads are similar to the picture, with Mat Dimensions - 250x150mm, Power - 200w, Voltage - 230v, so my calculations indicate <0.9 Amps per Unitank?

The Glycol Cooler similar to the picture is a Vision 21 and the specification indicates that the flow Pump is 80 Watts, and again my calculations indicate <0.4 Amps.

Again any help would be appreciated, and once I have my parts list, I'll draw up a sketch diagram to share with you for comments, before I place the actual orders.

Thanks again for you guidance.